morphus657
Active Member
nice set up what are they 10x10 tents y not put 4 trays in there instead of 3
This is how we do it on the other side (Was the $26,500 Thread)
- Thread starter benvegas
- Start date
mindphuk
Well-Known Member
Here's what I have (and all I can find):The "yoyo" is a good word for them. You are correct -- they were an additional $10-$15 if memory serves right (for a two pack I think?). Just make sure they are the right ones for the weight of your light and you're good to go. I'm not sure what you refer to by eye bolts, if you have a photo that'd help!
This one is upside down. Right above it is a hook with wood threads and to the left is the eye bolt with 2 nuts. Neither of those can be used to hang these from the cross bar. In the video, it looks like they are attached to your ceiling with something completely different.
Yup! Its a 1hp chiller. And it continually runs with a 1500gph pump sending water from a reservoir to the chiller, and then chiller to the setup as you see. Its only doing two lights and it doesnt cool below 70-71(f) and is on 24/7. The chiller is also outside of the room separate from the reservoir where it has a ton of cold air there already. I think that it needs SOME type of an air input and that will solve most of my problems. Just havent gotten to it yet, wasnt too important for veg room. Thanks also for those tips about insulation. I love those little two dollar tricks that make life better!I just reviewed your previous post and found out you are using a 1HP chiller, is that correct? That should be good for 4 lights with putting out cold air into the room or 8 lights with minimal cold air into the room.
I am using liquid lumens which is a different type of water cooling system but the way the chiller systems work are the same. If you were to use a 100-150 gallon res. on a closed loop to your chiller with a higher flow rate than what is going to your lights. The flow rate to your lights should be pretty slow after you factor in your lift hight. This way there is maximum cooling ability. Also having them daisy chained isn't as efficient as having a manifold type system that will delivery water to each "ice box" individually, and then return to the res.
Having the water brought to the room in PVC where you can insulate it keeps it cool to the point where it breaks off to PEX tubing to go to "ice box".
It is a complete pain setting up a water cooled system but the payoff is well worth it. I hope this helps you out with your project looks more than fun that's for sure!!
Because then you cant get inside of the tent to do anything, you'll have very little room for Co2/carbonfilters/ducting, etc.... Four trays for me would be possible, sure, but it'd require a bigger room where I could work outside the tent. That isnt the case for me....
Yup, that's them. Instead of using that stupid hook system, I just used the straps that came with the tent. That's what is attaching them to the crossbars.Here's what I have (and all I can find):
This one is upside down. Right above it is a hook with wood threads and to the left is the eye bolt with 2 nuts. Neither of those can be used to hang these from the cross bar. In the video, it looks like they are attached to your ceiling with something completely
different.
mindphuk
Well-Known Member
lol, I thought it might have been black electrical tape. I'm using S-hooks now but they slide along the bar so I was looking for something more secure.
orzz
Well-Known Member
I am using Yo-Yo's and attach them with zip ties to the tent cross bars.
abellguy
Active Member
If I am understanding you right you are running the water from your res. on a 1500gph pump to the chiller and then to the lights. If you run the system with two pumps one running say 300-500gph to the chiller and back to the res. Then run another pump that in the end will be running slower gph wise to the lights. You might need play with the gph so bleed off valves will help for both pumps. This should stop your chiller from running very much. A chiller should run way less than an air condtioner would have to.
Remember the water has to spend a little while in the chiller and also in the "ice box" for it both to get cooled by the chiller and to remove the heat from the light itself.
If you would like specifics on a design layout you are more than welcome to PM me and I will help if I can. It sounds like you have more than enough equipment to keep the lights as cool as you would want to and way more than two.
You can also go on liquid lumens web site and they have extensive explanations on how to set up chiller configurations, the only difference for you is that you are running your water through a "radiator" instead of through the light housing. Hope this helps
So the weakest link holding your heavy lights above your delicate tomatoes is a zip tie?
I hope its a really strong one!! 
LoudBlunts
Well-Known Member
Thanks!!!
Remember this important disclaimer before I hammer out a paragraph! The water chiller setup is experimental, not working correctly right now, and still needs a few setup alterations. With that said, the way you work the chillers is by having your CAN filter fan with a Vortex fan blowing to the light #1, radiator #1, light #2, radiator #2, exhaust out of tent. Currently there's no cold air intake, its just sucking air through seams and pores in the tent. For that reason, until the cold air intake or some other changes occur, the setup works but it is not working *efficiently* where its cooler than using air cooling. I'll have a much more extensive water chiller setup article once I know wtf to do myself. There's literally 0 threads here about them too with any *useful* information. So, verdict is out, and I would always appreciate ANY input into making a setup better! Thanks.
okay im not understanding how you are having so much trouble.
what are the inlet and outlet sizes on your chiller and your pumps?
the inlet and outlet size of the icebox (of course, i would think you know this already) is 1/2"
im also worried about your connection with your icebox itself and res plumbing and such. your connections for the fan blowing through the light through the icebox sounds correct as the radiator takes the hot air from the light and cools it. however, you need not duct outside your tent... leave the end off in your tent. i would make sure the fan is also as close as possible to the lights without any duct bends, sags, etc etc. Hang it if you can...or better yet, mount fan outside the tent, use the upper vent sockets of the Darkroom to run it.
No cold air is really needed inside the tent as it takes the air and recycles it while extremely cooling down the air before it exits the icebox and this is what allows you to use it as an air conditioner as well.
Optimal setups include 1/3 hp chillers. DUDE you have a fucking 1hp chiller. There is noway its not working to perfection. To my recollection, you have a 100 gallon correct? 1hp chillers are capable of chilling 300 gallons PLUS.
This has me questioning the quality of your res chiller. What brand? any links?
With all that said, i say check your connections in the res, plumbing, and make sure you have the inlet and outlets right on the icebox when you daisy chain. you may also need to insulate your tubing if it is too much length as the lost from the res and chiller will be greater.
also keeping your res chiller running at 65F *SHOULD* keep your room temperature at 75F
if you can elaborate your res and chiller setup maybe we can look at the problem more
LoudBlunts
Well-Known Member
also keep your res away from your chiller and keep both the res and chiller outside the grow room/tent
NewHiddenGrower
Well-Known Member
Man wouldnt it be cheaper to just use fans/vent to keep your lights cooled. Shit fans even make your crop yield more. These chillers sound hella cheesy
As for the co2, just dont vent when you have your Co2 on.
LoudBlunts
Well-Known Member
wrong, here's why
when you think about the air conditioning cost & need ratio per 1000watter vs aquarium chillers combined with heat exchanger combo.....they (res chiller & heat exchanger) are definitely cheaper to run, not to mention the ability to upgrade and not need a bigger 'a/c'
HOWEVER, setups & systems like these (hydro-innov icebox) are for multilight setups...or can benefit overkill in small space....ORR eliminate the need for an air conditioner ALL together!
abellguy
Active Member
It sounds like he is running his water line from the res. to the chiller then on to the light system, that would mean he is only getting the amount of cool water that the chiller will hold/pass by, and only cooled to the point that the chiller can do on a constant basis. No condesing type unit is made to run continuosly. He needs to be keeping the res. cold on a closed loop that way the chiller will shut off instead of running constantly trying to keep the water passing by cold. Just as an air conditioner would try to do if it was under rated for a space. He has more than enough chiller power for 4-6 lights depending on distance from res.
LoudBlunts
Well-Known Member
?????????????
abellguy
Active Member
LoudBlunts
Well-Known Member
OH WOW
i didnt even pick up on that.
THAT WOULD BE A GREAT ASS REASON as to why its not cooling
however, his wording may confuse and/or make it hard to understand....
im sure benvegas will pop up sooner or later
i didnt even pick up on that.
THAT WOULD BE A GREAT ASS REASON as to why its not cooling
however, his wording may confuse and/or make it hard to understand....
im sure benvegas will pop up sooner or later
LoudBlunts
Well-Known Member
and i just read that again, if it reads right.It sounds like he doesn't have the chiller on a closed loop system to the res.
he is running it the right way.
the chiller OUTLET is supposed to hook on the icebox's INLET
abellguy
Active Member
It is hard to get completly I think cause of wording. But it sounds like he has only one pump, unless his chiller is such that it holds the water inside of it cold and then pumps from there to the system as you see it as he says then it would work. Otherwise he needs two pumps one going from chiller to res. and one from res. to lights from a manifold that would be best way.
If he goes on you tube and puts in Liquid Lumens he will find a 3 part video on a 10 light two room configuration that is exactly the type of setup he needs to have for his 4 tent operation. That room is setup much the same way I am used to doing things.
His 1HP should be plenty for possible two of the tents depending on distances and such
LoudBlunts
Well-Known Member
It is hard to get completly I think cause of wording. But it sounds like he has only one pump, unless his chiller is such that it holds the water inside of it cold and then pumps from there to the system as you see it as he says then it would work. Otherwise he needs two pumps one going from chiller to res. and one from res. to lights from a manifold that would be best way.
If he goes on you tube and puts in Liquid Lumens he will find a 3 part video on a 10 light two room configuration that is exactly the type of setup he needs to have for his 4 tent operation. That room is setup much the same way I am used to doing things.
His 1HP should be plenty for possible two of the tents depending on distances and such
icebox only needs one pump.
icebox is totally different from liquid lumens.
totally.
and much safer, imho
LoudBlunts
Well-Known Member
THIS is your problem. Unless you have hella long tubing and/or LIFT.... you ONLY need 1000 gph MAX for the icebox.
also if im reading this correct, you say you are getting 70-71F with lights on? hell bro, SOUNDS LIKE THE SYSTEM IS WORKING TO ME!!!!!!
why do you want your lights on period to be so cold? 70-71F is like just below 'optimal 74-77F.
also, your temp differential is based off your aquarium/res chiller settings. it will be 10F higher than your res chiller. so if you set the res chiller to 65F you should see 75F which sounds about perfect to me