lordjin
Well-Known Member
A bottle of Serenade is less than 10 bucks.
white powder on young stems and leaves. Mold....??!!
- Thread starter skullsmasher
- Start date
A bottle of Serenade is less than 10 bucks.
skunkushybrid01
Well-Known Member
Sulphur Burners will prevent more spores from appearing.
i'm sure sopmebody has already told you that PM is systemic, once the plant has it there is no cure unless the plant finds immunity, which can happen. The thing is, if you have PM then there is a very good chance your plant will be susceptible to other fungal diseases, notably the ones that cause bud rot. a sulphur burner will prevent them all from appearing.
PM is a fungal disease... not a simple case of getting rid of the spores. Your best bet is to grow PM immune plants.
i'm sure sopmebody has already told you that PM is systemic, once the plant has it there is no cure unless the plant finds immunity, which can happen. The thing is, if you have PM then there is a very good chance your plant will be susceptible to other fungal diseases, notably the ones that cause bud rot. a sulphur burner will prevent them all from appearing.
PM is a fungal disease... not a simple case of getting rid of the spores. Your best bet is to grow PM immune plants.
Thedillestpickle
Well-Known Member
that doesnt sound too good, so how about these sulpher burners do they smell like sulpher?
skunkushybrid01
Well-Known Member
Yes they do. They stink.
Use with no fans and only during lights out. for bad case of PM, hit the room with 11 hours during the lights out period, use the final hour to put the fans and extraction back on to get rid of the vapur before the lights come back on. sulphur vapour will tend to burn leaves if still in the room when lights come on.
Once you have PM under control use the burner for minimal hours during the night, like 4 hours per night... this will hold off those spores. After that taper back further to 1 or 2 hours a night, preferrably in the middle of the dark period, this will keep the spores at bay and also help prevent any fungal infections, including the types that cause bud rot. bugs will also find it a difficult environment to manage in. Use the sulphur right up till a few days before harvest if you want to.
The number one fix for it is increasing ventilation. You need serious wind movement up in there and you'll have no pm what so ever/
ps. sulfur burners smell and taste like sh!t
Mr.Therapy Man 2
Active Member
There you go again with that stupid shit,sulfer burners dont smell your weed up or make it taste funny.When used right its the only cure.I use a burner and systemic spay.Seranade will keep it at bay bro but it really taste bad to me.I got pm for the first time about 2 yaers ago and the burner was the only answer,I tried everything(Spays,bombs,etc.)All I did was waste cash on that shit.I hate it hit you so close to finish but you need to be prepared for your next run because it will come back
HomeGrown83
Member
late after original thread but thought I would just say that I am having a fungus problem right now. there is a spray from the hydro store that is natural. it works pretty good.
my problem is that i am in bloom and not sure if i can or should treat the buds.
my problem is that i am in bloom and not sure if i can or should treat the buds.
Thedillestpickle
Well-Known Member
someone earlier said manage the temps and humidity. Its pretty obvious that low humitidy is the key here, but what is a good tempurature? my instinct tells me that cool air is best... think of a loaf of bread sitting in a car on a hot day compared to a loaf of bread in the fridge. But than I had someone earlier telling me that the molds that affect marijuana thrive in cooler temperatures and warming it up a bit is going to help kill the mold... is that total bullshit or were they correct?
To Mr therapy: If your almost done flowering and you have a really effective dehumidifier, Id say dry the RH down as low as you possibly can, you might get some drooped leaves or whatever but if your about to harvest might as well get a head start on the drying process and you Really dont want mold ruining your whole crop. Also adjust the temps up or down... Im just not sure which one
To Mr therapy: If your almost done flowering and you have a really effective dehumidifier, Id say dry the RH down as low as you possibly can, you might get some drooped leaves or whatever but if your about to harvest might as well get a head start on the drying process and you Really dont want mold ruining your whole crop. Also adjust the temps up or down... Im just not sure which one
skunkushybrid01
Well-Known Member
PM likes the cold and humid conditions best... most moulds like humidity. they hit at night when humidity can hit as high as 100% :O even in rooms with good air exchange during the summer months. By the time you see the spores it is too late, the plant is diseased, the spores are just how it spreads itself.
I have grown many plants that are immune to PM, immunity can be strain specific or even pheno specific. some plants can also learnt o become immune, maybe a gene that lays dormant until the disease gets a grip. i don't know, but i've seen it happen. It was actually fdd's Hijack.
I have grown many plants that are immune to PM, immunity can be strain specific or even pheno specific. some plants can also learnt o become immune, maybe a gene that lays dormant until the disease gets a grip. i don't know, but i've seen it happen. It was actually fdd's Hijack.
alotaball
Well-Known Member
Ive had it twice.. pretty easy to eliminate unless your lazy.. easy steps.. add more fans to the grow box.. atleast double what you think you need.. no stagnant air will greatly help.. green cure what ever spores are showing.. eliminate any strain that has showed spores.. it is systemic and will stay alive in any clones you take ect. Keep humidity under 50 %. Inspect daily to ensure no more spores are re appear.... ONE more thing that really helps.. make sure to treat with neem in veg.. all the way up till you see buds starting to develop .. the coating on the leaves from neem oil will Help prevent spores .. it doesnt really help to fight it but it will help prevent it from coming back!.. spread plants.. dont overcrowd.. But most important is humidity and air flow.. if you cant find a way or afford to keep your humidity low during flower ( with a dehumidifier or better air flow).. then your never gonna get rid of it.. High humidity can also cause bud rot and all other types of problems!
skunkushybrid01
Well-Known Member
Yeah but it's the night time you have to watch out. without the lights on there is less evaporation so the moisture hangs in the air. even with the best extractors running throughout the night it's almost impossible to stop humidity rising. night time humidity is the bane of many a commercial grower that I know.
sulphur is good because it works through the night, it helps lower humidity by drying out the air, it also dries out fungi spores and prevents them from spreading. sulphur is not a cure, but it is a deterrent and also a help once fungi infections have taken a hold.
skunkushybrid01
Well-Known Member
also with dehumidifiers, it depends on their placement... too close to one plant and it will suck the moisture out of that plant and the rest of the room remains humid.
