Temps before flowering.. probably still want to keep it at LEAST in the low 60's at night .. most strains will adapt no worries but not much lower if you can help it. Although once you flower the difference in night and day temps can cause some real issues and slow phosphorus uptake to nil. She's a hardy plant, I've had her live through snow storms.. she's also finicky and once a whole crop dies on me just because I looked at it wrong.. you know the drill.
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I haven't read this entire thing yet.. and this is just advice, take it or leave it.. I'm just another cat with anecdotal experience, certainly maybe apply some next time if you fancy anyway.. I did have dozens of these CFL grows under my belt over the years.
Just put ONE single 25-28 (whatever, low watt, more than 15) 6500k (some have good results with 5000 and some go 2700 from start to finish.. the best results I get for new growth is 6500's) about 3 inches above it (or bring the plant up to the light) and continue to veg it under that one light until it grows out of the space and then give it two bulbs.. add lights as she's ready for them.... too much light is a waste of money, bulb life and has no added benefit for at least a few weeks.
I LST and pinch em down, so everyone's mileage will vary.. For instance, been awhile, but I vegged under one of these (don't laugh too hard, I know it is ghetto.. it is supposed to be ghetto, I take great pride in my household grows using common household items.. it very much fit my space and living space at the time)
and just stuck em under a chair 24/7
for around 3 weeks of bending, tying, training time. This
was vegged under just two bulbs in just over 3 weeks, ready to rock and roll. This is the day she was to be transplanted, adjusted and soon stuck into the flower from vegging under two 6500k 28 watt bulbs. I probably could of got her under stronger light a bit sooner, but I wanted to keep it slowed down while I waited for room in the flower box to replace it with.
All I'm trying to say is ya.. no need for so much light, you can do a LOT with a little. People ask me how many grams I get per watt (which is silly) but the first 3/4's of it's veg time is under a 28 watt bulb.
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Same goes with flowering.. if I have no other in the box and I am flowering the one plant or even a few smaller ones, I start out with half the light I will end up with and exponentially increase it. I started flowering the plant in the picture under about 100 real watts of of 6500k and 60 real watts of 2700 k, and by the time she is done she is surrounded by 350 watt's or more.. I add them as the plant tells me it's time. If I were to flower right under the 350 watts, the leaves will get yellow quick upon flower no matter how much nitrogen you pump into her (to a point). For the longest time I thought this was because of too little light at the bottom.. turns out it was the plant eating it's self because in transition to flower, CFL's are more powerful than they get credit for. Once I backed off the CFL's and added them only as needed, the plants grew better and stayed greener.
Then again, I am growing tiny 8 inch tall plants that will put out 3-4 zips manicured at the end. 300 watts of CFL in a 1.5x1.5 space right over a canopy that is in full flower is a LOT more light than folks give it credit for. Back off on the lights when in doubt.. even CFL's..
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Sorry for the prattling rhetoric.. I can be windy.. just trying to help.. but I certainly am just one guy and one way.. good luck in however way you adapt to..
Peace~!
)
the U-haul box is working perfectly lol 
