4 weeks left - Fucked up with Mollassas !!!! Am I doomed?

i will definitely be more careful with mollasses in future. good luck with the rest of the grow! don't panic, we learn more from our fuck ups than our success lol

c5rftw said:

wait, you guys actually use this, not tryin to insult but i thought this was like an urban myth(among growers)

Click to expand...

But... It contains essential trace minerals and sugars for to feed the girls. All the big boys use it. I thought I was a big boy but I was wrong. Now with their help my girls are commin back!!

Healing Herb said:

Yea I knew it was to good to be true. And its MY FAULT!
It worked great for the first three weeks I used it. The problem is if you don't have a PH pen you can't tell that it jacks your PH down into toxic acid land. Using a liquid tester was useless since it changes the color of the water. So here I am adding 1 TBS of Moll to my 6.0 water... shit I was likely watering with 4.0 or so....
I can't afford a PH pen at the moment.

Had the most amazing buds I have grown. I am 5 weeks in to 12/12. Big fucking cola on my Casey Jones... Today I checked my girls and about half of the leaves have turned yellow and are dropping. PANIC !!! Flushed with water but I am in soil (NEVER AGAIN!!!). Guessing I will wait till the next light cycle and flush again untill the run off is 7.0? Then do I add nutrients again? and add another week or so to the flowering. I'm I just fucked? Will overwatering to flush be just as bad at this point?

God damn I am such an idiot. I never should have added MOL without knowing more. So depressed this morning. Such a fucking newbie... and now that I add up all I spent on this grow set up I could have just bought chronic for half a year... stupid... looser

Click to expand...

the leaves turn yellow and fall off. thats what happens in the flowering phase because its using all the nitrogen in the leaves to produce buds bro so dont trip your good to go man , but fix you ph level yo

c5rftw said:

wait, you guys actually use this, not tryin to insult but i thought this was like an urban myth(among growers)

Click to expand...

It is not an urban myth, urban legend or old hippie folklore.


“Molasses and Plant Carbohydrates”
Sugars relating to plant functions for maximum economic
production
Printed by permission of Texas Plant & Soil Lab, Inc.,


ENVIRONMENTAL FACTORS that affect when and how much sugar to use:

a. How much nitrate is in the soil, and plant sap (petiole test).
b. Soil moisture conditions.
c. Sunlight intensity.
d. Temperature.
e. Wind
f. Fruiting stage / load
g. Growth / vigor [shade lower leaves]
The right amount at the right time can improve fruiting and produce normal
plant growth with less attraction for disease and insects.

Needed for healthy plants - fruit production - plant development &
maturity.

Roots take nutrients from the soil and transport them up the stalk thru the
petiole (stem) to the leaves where the sunlight aids the production of
photosynthates (sugars are not the ONLY product of photosynthesis)
carbohydrates (C, H & O), principally glucose (C6H12O6) and then other sugars and photosynthates are formed.

Plant Sugars and other photosynthates are first translocated (boron is essential to the translocation) to a fruiting site. If fruit is not available, the sugars, along with excess nitrates, spur the rapid vegetative growth of the plant
at the expense of creating fruiting bodies (first sink) for the storage of the sugars.

Once the proper balance of environmental factors (heat units, light intensity, soil moisture, nutrient balance, etc) are met, the fruiting buds form and then fruit formation gets the first crack at the sugar supply.

Any excess sugars are then translocated to the number two sink, (growing
terminals,) to speed their growth. The left-over sugars, etc. then go to the
number 3 sink, (the roots,) to aid their growth.

Here the new root hairs take
up nutrients to help continue the cycle of sugar and other photosynthate production, fruiting, growth of terminals and roots.

ADDED SUGARS CAN AID THE PLANT IN SEVERAL WAYS:
-
MOLASSES is probably the best outside source of many sugars, such as table sugar, corn syrup and several more complex sugars such as polysaccharides found in humus products.

- Sugar can be added to the soil in irrigation water, drip & pivot being the most
effective.

* In the soil it can:

- Feed microbes to stimulate the conversion of nitrates to the more
efficient NH2 form of N to synthesize protein more directly by the plants.
- The roots can directly absorb some of the sugars into the sap stream to
supplement the leaf supply to fruit where it is most needed, and ALSO directly
feed the roots for continued productive growth.
- This ADDED sugar can also help initiate fruiting buds in a steady-slow
fashion while maintaining normal growth.
-EXCESSIVE amounts of ADDED SUGARS applied foliarly can shock the
plant resulting in shortened growth internodes, increased leaf maturity & initiation
of excess fruiting sites. This can be a short term effect lasting only a few days.

Pollination, soil moisture, nutrient balance and sufficiency as well as
adequate light for photosynthate production decide how much of the
induced fruit can mature.

Brick Top said:

It is not an urban myth, urban legend or old hippie folklore.


“Molasses and Plant Carbohydrates”
Sugars relating to plant functions for maximum economic
production
Printed by permission of Texas Plant & Soil Lab, Inc.,


ENVIRONMENTAL FACTORS that affect when and how much sugar to use:

a. How much nitrate is in the soil, and plant sap (petiole test).
b. Soil moisture conditions.
c. Sunlight intensity.
d. Temperature.
e. Wind
f. Fruiting stage / load
g. Growth / vigor [shade lower leaves]
The right amount at the right time can improve fruiting and produce normal
plant growth with less attraction for disease and insects.

Needed for healthy plants - fruit production - plant development &
maturity.

Roots take nutrients from the soil and transport them up the stalk thru the
petiole (stem) to the leaves where the sunlight aids the production of
photosynthates (sugars are not the ONLY product of photosynthesis)
carbohydrates (C, H & O), principally glucose (C6H12O6) and then other sugars and photosynthates are formed.

Plant Sugars and other photosynthates are first translocated (boron is essential to the translocation) to a fruiting site. If fruit is not available, the sugars, along with excess nitrates, spur the rapid vegetative growth of the plant
at the expense of creating fruiting bodies (first sink) for the storage of the sugars.

Once the proper balance of environmental factors (heat units, light intensity, soil moisture, nutrient balance, etc) are met, the fruiting buds form and then fruit formation gets the first crack at the sugar supply.

Any excess sugars are then translocated to the number two sink, (growing
terminals,) to speed their growth. The left-over sugars, etc. then go to the
number 3 sink, (the roots,) to aid their growth.

Here the new root hairs take
up nutrients to help continue the cycle of sugar and other photosynthate production, fruiting, growth of terminals and roots.

ADDED SUGARS CAN AID THE PLANT IN SEVERAL WAYS:
-
MOLASSES is probably the best outside source of many sugars, such as table sugar, corn syrup and several more complex sugars such as polysaccharides found in humus products.

- Sugar can be added to the soil in irrigation water, drip & pivot being the most
effective.

* In the soil it can:

- Feed microbes to stimulate the conversion of nitrates to the more
efficient NH2 form of N to synthesize protein more directly by the plants.
- The roots can directly absorb some of the sugars into the sap stream to
supplement the leaf supply to fruit where it is most needed, and ALSO directly
feed the roots for continued productive growth.
- This ADDED sugar can also help initiate fruiting buds in a steady-slow
fashion while maintaining normal growth.
-EXCESSIVE amounts of ADDED SUGARS applied foliarly can shock the
plant resulting in shortened growth internodes, increased leaf maturity & initiation
of excess fruiting sites. This can be a short term effect lasting only a few days.

Pollination, soil moisture, nutrient balance and sufficiency as well as
adequate light for photosynthate production decide how much of the
induced fruit can mature.

Click to expand...

good shit and right on the dot with it an

Healing Herb said:

But... It contains essential trace minerals and sugars for to feed the girls. All the big boys use it. I thought I was a big boy but I was wrong. Now with their help my girls are commin back!!

Click to expand...

Herb I only read the first and last page of this thread, but here's my little bit of advice.
Quit beating yourself up over this.
You made a mistake, you recognized what it was, and you learned how to correct it and prevent it from happening again.
Sounds like a good thing to me.
20 years doing this and I still make mistakes from time to time.

You said that you cannot afford a PH pen, but the truth is you can't afford to NOT have one. Milwaukee 600, 20 bucks on E-bay. One extra gram of weed pays for the Ph tester!

Yea I got a Hanna red top PH tester and a matching Hanna Blue top PPM tester for my hydro setup.

Things are looking quite good today... only my Sensi Star looks like it may have been stunted. All the rest have bounced back - dropped a few leaves. All the yellow stayed yellow. Curiously the White Widow and Hindu Kush seem to have been the least effected. In this run I tested several strains to see which would be the best to stick with. I will see when I finish who were the leaders.

Sure Shot said:

I did almost exactly what you did about 5 months ago.
Was using molasses for the first time and liking the results.
Filled up my 50 gal. barrel with a mix and watered with it.
2-3 days later I was using the same stuff, but it developed a foam layer on top and smelled funky.
I used it anyway and was shocked the next day when my girls were crispy fried all over the fan leaves.
It didn't happen to the same degree with all plants.
Some strains were slightly affected, others were never the same.
The end resulting flowers were bland and probably half as potent as they would have been.

Click to expand...

Foam and smelly tells me anaerobic bacteria probably took over in your barrel. Unless I'm making a compost tea I use molasses right away - don't go much beyond 24 hours with the tea.

Sure Shot said:

I did almost exactly what you did about 5 months ago.
Was using molasses for the first time and liking the results.
Filled up my 50 gal. barrel with a mix and watered with it.
2-3 days later I was using the same stuff, but it developed a foam layer on top and smelled funky.
I used it anyway and was shocked the next day when my girls were crispy fried all over the fan leaves.

Click to expand...

Yea... not really like what I did... NEVER, EVER, EVER would I go ahead and use ANYTHING that smelled FUNKY...!!!

LOL!!!

Sorry Dude thats rough... glad we all learned lessons...

Part of your problem came from using vinegar to lower the ph, vinegar is unstable, it will lower the ph for a moment but as soon as it wears off the ph will go crazy. I would add vinegar to 3gallons of water bring the ph down to 6.5 after 2 days the ph would be back to close to 8 where it started. Buy some ph down from walmart! The other problem is you cant water with moloases every watering do it twice then plain water till it runs to clear out old salts and molases that has built up in the soil. Also you should be using one teaspoon to a gallon instead of table spoon.
Good luck