6" PVC system

gohydro

Well-Known Member
I don't own a plumbing supply house...I own a plumbing contracting business and don't stock any of these type of parts. I may consider building in the future but have no plans to do so now.
 

gohydro

Well-Known Member
and what is the purpose of the chiller??
Oxygen is more readily available in cooler water. The ideal water temps seem to be between 66 and 71. I have (2) 600's and (1) 400 for light and this adds a lot of heat to the water. The chiller just keeps the water temps cool.
 

doniawon

Well-Known Member
if you build it .. , they will come. slap a big a 'GO HYDRO' on the side of that bitch and get it patened... ill take three..nice work im stoked to see it in action

and the chiller, that going the exra mile.. good work hydro +rep
 

gohydro

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the pics. I went to Lowes today and found everything except the sprayers, the only ones there looked like mini sprinklers. I say some like yours but thew were 180 deg. Have yous started growing anything in your system? curious to see how it will work.

thanks
You can buy 360 degree nozzles at most any online hydro shop if you can't find them at your Lowes.

I'll post some pics of the grow as soon as it gets going.
 

gohydro

Well-Known Member
That system looks fuckin great. Im in my first grow but in soil. I am thinking about going to hydro because of the higher yields. Atleast thats what I heard. I was wondering how hard it is to keep the water the way it needs to be as far as Ph, nutes, and whatever else you add?
Hydro is easier than it seems BUT it requires a lot of attention. If you want to do it right it takes a little investment too. You need a GOOD PPM/EC meter as well as a good PH meter. I check and adjust my PH and nutrient levels 2 times a day and change the nute solution once a week.
 

gohydro

Well-Known Member
It is an aeroponics/NFT feeding system. the Pipes are on a decline angle back to the resivoir so gravity brings the water back to the res. they are sprayed from the top by the yellow mist heads that you can get thru your local hydro shop.

Great design! I have a similar design in the testing stages using buckets... they all have their own root area!
+Rep
Thanks for the +rep G33. I have been doing hydro for years but this will be the first grow using the PVC system. Prior to that it was the Rubbermaid tub system. I tried once before and found my mistakes in the design. I used the 4" PVC Trex decking 4x4 covers (which ended up being too small for the root system) and the 1" drain hole I drilled in the bottom of the tubes for the water to drain back to the rez was too small. Within 1 week the roots had clogged the drain hole and the water started overflowing the netpots. My solution was to remove the endcaps and build a gutter system where the water ran back to the rez as a temporary measure. Then I started having issues with algae since I couldn't cover the gutters completely. Thats why THIS system has a 6x6x4 tee. The 4" side drains back to the resevoir directly underneath the 6" pipe. All penetrations are sealed light tight to prevent algae too. My only issue with this system is pump failure. In the Rubbermaid tubs I use to use, if the pump failed the roots soaked in the water until I could get a replacement pump installed. If the pump fails when I'm away in this system I'm screwed.....no water to soak in since it all drains back to the rez. The only modification to this system will be a second pump paralleled which should resolve my concern.
 

smokebluntz

Well-Known Member
Could you put a few more pics on here. I dont know much about this type of growing. Im just trying to see all the piping and understand what they all do. Thanks
 

gohydro

Well-Known Member
Could you put a few more pics on here. I dont know much about this type of growing. Im just trying to see all the piping and understand what they all do. Thanks
The 40 gallon reservoir which holds the water/nutes sits below the 6" PVC pipes. The 1" pipe along the floor comes from the rez, goes to a pump (lower right). The pump discharges in to an inline filter (black plastic) and then to a 3/4"PVC pipe header system where it is distributed to the small black plastic hoses which feed the sprayers inside the 6" PVC. That 6" PVC is angled downward and all the water flows back towards the 6"tee and spills back to the resevoir. The larger black hoses you see go to a small chiller and back. There is a seperate pump INSIDE the rez that just sends water to the chiller and back...thats all.
 

gohydro

Well-Known Member
Dang that looks so very hightech. All its missing is some computers and stuff.

Actually this is a simple system to build if you have a little bit of mechanical ability and the access to the proper tools. I am a contractor so tools aren't an issue. I've also made my fair share of mistakes and have hopefully learned from them.
 

smokebluntz

Well-Known Member
The 40 gallon reservoir which holds the water/nutes sits below the 6" PVC pipes. The 1" pipe along the floor comes from the rez, goes to a pump (lower right). The pump discharges in to an inline filter (black plastic) and then to a 3/4"PVC pipe header system where it is distributed to the small black plastic hoses which feed the sprayers inside the 6" PVC. That 6" PVC is angled downward and all the water flows back towards the 6"tee and spills back to the resevoir. The larger black hoses you see go to a small chiller and back. There is a seperate pump INSIDE the rez that just sends water to the chiller and back...thats all.

Thanks. Good explanation.
 

gohydro

Well-Known Member
if you build it .. , they will come. slap a big a 'GO HYDRO' on the side of that bitch and get it patened... ill take three..nice work im stoked to see it in action

and the chiller, that going the exra mile.. good work hydro +rep
Thanks doniawan. You read my mind. :bigjoint:

After the test run I may consider going to my local hydro shop and striking up a deal.
 

gohydro

Well-Known Member
I will post a grow journal for those who have asked. Not quite ready yet though. I took several clones a few weeks ago and they were doing great. On the morning I was supposed to transfer them to this system the spray pump in the cloner failed and they almost died. I DID put them in the system and 10 out of 12 survived but I also took about 20 more just in case. I am considering removing the initial 10 plants (only about 6" tall and visibly stressed) and replacing them with the new clones which should be ready to go by the end of this week. I'll post here when I start the journal.

Thanks to all who have followed this so far.

Go Hydro
 

AeroKing

Well-Known Member
After the test run I may consider going to my local hydro shop and striking up a deal.
Your system is very nice, gohydro,(+rep) but I think you'd have to get your cost down to go commercial.
The GH aeroflo2 sells on ebay for $340 for a 20 site to $890 for the 60 site.
What made you decide to DIY vs. a turnkey solution?
 

gohydro

Well-Known Member
Your system is very nice, gohydro,(+rep) but I think you'd have to get your cost down to go commercial.
The GH aeroflo2 sells on ebay for $340 for a 20 site to $890 for the 60 site.
What made you decide to DIY vs. a turnkey solution?

Thanks Aeroking. I never intended to mfg this system for sale. Had that been the case I probably wouldn't have used the Schedule 40.....most probably DWV (drain, waste and vent).

I like Aero/Nft and thought I'd get away from the Rubbermaid tub grows. Because I'm a mechanical/electrical contractor I have the tools, parts and knowhow to build a system that the average grower might not want.

Thanks for the rep!

GoHydro
 

AeroKing

Well-Known Member
Right now the sprayers are running 24/7. I will experiment with some on/off times.
Heat is the #1 reason people run the pump on a timer.

Theoretically aeroponics will provide enough o2 to the roots, that they should not need a "drying out" time, like as is required with soil or ebb and flow hydroponics.

However, it seems that the problem isn't the lack of o2, but the fact that when roots are soaked consistently, they tend to mat together. When the roots are fluffy and spread out, they grow many tiny little white hairs that are very effective at absorbing water, nutes and o2. When they become matted, you will see less of these fine root hairs and the plants will not grow as fast.

So, the #2 reason would be to allow the roots time to dry out, not to provide o2 in and of itself, but to allow the roots to "fluff up" again(which they will not do if being sprayed constantly).
I posted this in another thread. I think that it is important to run a timer to really take advantage of this system. aero/nft hybrids are even more prone to root matting.
 
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