A Guide To Colloidal Silver

ZoBudd

Well-Known Member
What does a Colloidal Silver generator look like / How do I make my own:
Colloidal Silver generators can be either bought, or made. If you decide to buy one, aim for the one with the lowest possible voltage between (5-30v) and try to stay under 1000mA. The weaker current will help create smaller particles even though it takes a bit longer (only hours so it doesn't matter).

It can be made from a simple cell phone charger with the end cut off and stripped to look like this.


The exposed wires would then be taped (using electrical tape) to silver electrodes (pure .9999 silver wire), which would need to be kept apart (they can't touch), and spaced evenly/parallel in the water without touching the bottom or sides. A distance of 1-4" is best depending on your generators power.

You will also want to run an air pump with aquarium tubing and an airstone in the generator jar to keep the water moving around which will do these three things:

1. Prevent/slow down buildup that forms on the wires during the generating process.
2. Stir the solution to keep the silver particles from bunching up and agglomerating around the electrodes which will create larger particles, and possibly cause the solution to turn amber any time from when it is being made, to the next few days.
3. Allow for a creation of higher ppm Colloidal Silver (you only really need 15 but can use up to 40 if you want to spray less than 3x daily).

A store bought Colloidal Silver generator often looks like this:


And is run like this for 5-15 hours: (Note the air pump + air stone in the jar)


Throughout these hours, the wires will get discolored (esp the negative electrode which will turn blackish) and some buildup may collect on them as well (once again, the negative electrode is most drastically affected by this). Simply unplug your generator, remove it from the water, and wipe the electrodes clean. You can use a paper towel only, but it helps to have one of those green, non-metallic Scotch-Brite scrubbing pads (no chemicals added such as soap or anything). You should do this every 30-60 minutes or when you see buildup forming. The first few hours may only cause a rise in ppm of 1-2 if that, and little discoloration on the wires, but as time passes, and the ppm rises, the process speeds up exponentially. By the end, you may have to wipe your wires every 15-20min depending on your generators power level.

Once the ppm has reached the desired level (tested with a TDS meter), the generator is removed and the mixture is filtered through a 2 unbleached coffee filters, into another jar. This should filter out any larger silver particles that can and probably will form around the wires during the generating process, as well as any dust or anything else that may have found its way into the jar while the Colloidal Silver was being made. When you are done, you shouldn't see anything floating around in the mixture. It should look like pure water, except that a laser beam shows up when you shine it through.

What is a plant treated with Colloidal Silver supposed to look like:
It should look normal until a couple days after spraying, when you may see some unusual flower growth. After about 2-3 weeks, the plant will be growing almost exclusively pollen sacs, and should look just like a regular male with clusters of "balls" lacking many stray pistils.

The following plant was completely doused all over (including the tops and undersides of the leaves) 2-4x daily with homemade Colloidal Silver, and it wasn't burned in the least bit.

Pollen Sacs


Q&A / Troubleshooting:
Q: When should I start spraying my plant?
A: If it is a photoperiod plant, start spraying a week before flipping the lights to 12/12 (or whatever flowering schedule you use). If it is an auto wait until you see pistils and then start spraying the day the first couple appear. Even if you bought the seeds as autofems, I still recommend waiting until you see the first couple pistils because there is always the chance that you were send seeds with males in them and you wouldn't have any way of knowing until you started popping males out of your "female seeds".

Q: Why is my Colloidal Silver amber/yellow/grey colored?
A: The silver particles are slightly larger than they would be in a clear solution. They can still work for cannabis reversal, but I don't recommend ingesting the stuff. Amber/yellow is the first color you should notice. As it begins to get darker, or greyer, that means the the particles are larger and larger. The plant above was reversed with only amber Colloidal Silver as a test and it worked fine.

Q: How do I fix that color problem?
A: Add an air pump and an air stone to your generator jar, and clean the wires more often (every 30min, or when you see buildup forming). Discoloration on the wires (esp the negative electrode turning dark) is fine and expected, but if you leave it for too long you will notice that more and more silver particles build up on the negative electrode and start breaking off and floating around your mixture causing it to be cloudy and lower quality.

Q: How long does Colloidal Silver last / How do I store it:
A: Colloidal Silver remains at the desired potency for at least a month.
It should be kept in glass (plastic can attract the silver particles and ruin the mixture), and in the dark.

Q: Can I only spray one part of the plant to force pollen sac to form there and only there?
A: Yes.

Q: Can I then take that pollen and pollinate pistils somewhere else on the same plant, or will that cause hermies?
A: Yes. properly made Colloidal Silver does not carry over into the pollen or the seeds created using it, nor does it cause unwanted changes in the plant, its DNA, its offspring (and their DNA), etc. If you used a low quality spray and ended up stressing the plant to the point that it "hermied", and then used that pollen, you would be inadvertently selecting for the low stress tolerance gene that allowed the reversal, but if you start with solid genetics, and a good quality spray, you should have nothing to worry about.*

*Here are actually some posts by members on here (who have experience using pollen from a plant to pollinate its own pistils). I asked around to get a few different perspectives and see if I was missing anything, but they all agreed. (If anyone posting below would like their quote removed, feel free to pm me.)









--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Disclaimer: This post in no way promotes the cultivation and/or breeding of cannabis illegally.
Great post!!!! I should have my .999 silver by the end of the week. All other supplies are set (cell phone charger, etc.).
My goal is to produce 20-25 seeds of 3 different strains that I've been growing for a few years.
I've been propagating by clone up to now.

I'll be spraying a few branches of:
Marionberry Kush (TGA), Strawberry Amnesia (Dinafem), and Fruit Punch (Heavyweight). I have 2 of each in veg right now, and I always take clones before flipping to 12/12. So, I'll have backup if my first attempt fails.
Right now, my plan is to only spray a few branches of each strain to produce enough pollen to pollinate a few buds on the same plant. No fancies, or crosses here!!! I just want to hit my goal of 20-25 healthy, viable seeds of each strain. (Although....I'm tempted to cross my Strawberry (Original Strawberry Cough × Original Amnesia) and Fruit P
(Skunk x Haze x NL)......I love them both SOOOOO much.

I'll begin posting pics once the process is underway.

Now, for a few questions:
1) Does the type of sprayer/mister matter? does it have an impact on Ag particle size?
2) What is the optimal maturity level of a flower for pollination?
3) And I know that there are loads of variables but - ballpark -- say you pollinate a flowering bud the size of a Bic lighter. How many seeds would that bud yield?

Thanks for the help!!!

Zo
 

thewanderer718

Well-Known Member
What does a Colloidal Silver generator look like / How do I make my own:
Colloidal Silver generators can be either bought, or made. If you decide to buy one, aim for the one with the lowest possible voltage between (5-30v) and try to stay under 1000mA. The weaker current will help create smaller particles even though it takes a bit longer (only hours so it doesn't matter).

It can be made from a simple cell phone charger with the end cut off and stripped to look like this.


The exposed wires would then be taped (using electrical tape) to silver electrodes (pure .9999 silver wire), which would need to be kept apart (they can't touch), and spaced evenly/parallel in the water without touching the bottom or sides. A distance of 1-4" is best depending on your generators power.

You will also want to run an air pump with aquarium tubing and an airstone in the generator jar to keep the water moving around which will do these three things:

1. Prevent/slow down buildup that forms on the wires during the generating process.
2. Stir the solution to keep the silver particles from bunching up and agglomerating around the electrodes which will create larger particles, and possibly cause the solution to turn amber any time from when it is being made, to the next few days.
3. Allow for a creation of higher ppm Colloidal Silver (you only really need 15 but can use up to 40 if you want to spray less than 3x daily).

A store bought Colloidal Silver generator often looks like this:


And is run like this for 5-15 hours: (Note the air pump + air stone in the jar)


Throughout these hours, the wires will get discolored (esp the negative electrode which will turn blackish) and some buildup may collect on them as well (once again, the negative electrode is most drastically affected by this). Simply unplug your generator, remove it from the water, and wipe the electrodes clean. You can use a paper towel only, but it helps to have one of those green, non-metallic Scotch-Brite scrubbing pads (no chemicals added such as soap or anything). You should do this every 30-60 minutes or when you see buildup forming. The first few hours may only cause a rise in ppm of 1-2 if that, and little discoloration on the wires, but as time passes, and the ppm rises, the process speeds up exponentially. By the end, you may have to wipe your wires every 15-20min depending on your generators power level.

Once the ppm has reached the desired level (tested with a TDS meter), the generator is removed and the mixture is filtered through a 2 unbleached coffee filters, into another jar. This should filter out any larger silver particles that can and probably will form around the wires during the generating process, as well as any dust or anything else that may have found its way into the jar while the Colloidal Silver was being made. When you are done, you shouldn't see anything floating around in the mixture. It should look like pure water, except that a laser beam shows up when you shine it through.

What is a plant treated with Colloidal Silver supposed to look like:
It should look normal until a couple days after spraying, when you may see some unusual flower growth. After about 2-3 weeks, the plant will be growing almost exclusively pollen sacs, and should look just like a regular male with clusters of "balls" lacking many stray pistils.

The following plant was completely doused all over (including the tops and undersides of the leaves) 2-4x daily with homemade Colloidal Silver, and it wasn't burned in the least bit.

Pollen Sacs


Q&A / Troubleshooting:
Q: When should I start spraying my plant?
A: If it is a photoperiod plant, start spraying a week before flipping the lights to 12/12 (or whatever flowering schedule you use). If it is an auto wait until you see pistils and then start spraying the day the first couple appear. Even if you bought the seeds as autofems, I still recommend waiting until you see the first couple pistils because there is always the chance that you were send seeds with males in them and you wouldn't have any way of knowing until you started popping males out of your "female seeds".

Q: Why is my Colloidal Silver amber/yellow/grey colored?
A: The silver particles are slightly larger than they would be in a clear solution. They can still work for cannabis reversal, but I don't recommend ingesting the stuff. Amber/yellow is the first color you should notice. As it begins to get darker, or greyer, that means the the particles are larger and larger. The plant above was reversed with only amber Colloidal Silver as a test and it worked fine.

Q: How do I fix that color problem?
A: Add an air pump and an air stone to your generator jar, and clean the wires more often (every 30min, or when you see buildup forming). Discoloration on the wires (esp the negative electrode turning dark) is fine and expected, but if you leave it for too long you will notice that more and more silver particles build up on the negative electrode and start breaking off and floating around your mixture causing it to be cloudy and lower quality.

Q: How long does Colloidal Silver last / How do I store it:
A: Colloidal Silver remains at the desired potency for at least a month.
It should be kept in glass (plastic can attract the silver particles and ruin the mixture), and in the dark.

Q: Can I only spray one part of the plant to force pollen sac to form there and only there?
A: Yes.

Q: Can I then take that pollen and pollinate pistils somewhere else on the same plant, or will that cause hermies?
A: Yes. properly made Colloidal Silver does not carry over into the pollen or the seeds created using it, nor does it cause unwanted changes in the plant, its DNA, its offspring (and their DNA), etc. If you used a low quality spray and ended up stressing the plant to the point that it "hermied", and then used that pollen, you would be inadvertently selecting for the low stress tolerance gene that allowed the reversal, but if you start with solid genetics, and a good quality spray, you should have nothing to worry about.*

*Here are actually some posts by members on here (who have experience using pollen from a plant to pollinate its own pistils). I asked around to get a few different perspectives and see if I was missing anything, but they all agreed. (If anyone posting below would like their quote removed, feel free to pm me.)









--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Disclaimer: This post in no way promotes the cultivation and/or breeding of cannabis illegally.
Thank you sooooooo much for this !!!!!!!!!
 

WattSaver

Well-Known Member
Great post!!!! I should have my .999 silver by the end of the week. All other supplies are set (cell phone charger, etc.).
My goal is to produce 20-25 seeds of 3 different strains that I've been growing for a few years.
I've been propagating by clone up to now.

I'll be spraying a few branches of:
Marionberry Kush (TGA), Strawberry Amnesia (Dinafem), and Fruit Punch (Heavyweight). I have 2 of each in veg right now, and I always take clones before flipping to 12/12. So, I'll have backup if my first attempt fails.
Right now, my plan is to only spray a few branches of each strain to produce enough pollen to pollinate a few buds on the same plant. No fancies, or crosses here!!! I just want to hit my goal of 20-25 healthy, viable seeds of each strain. (Although....I'm tempted to cross my Strawberry (Original Strawberry Cough × Original Amnesia) and Fruit P
(Skunk x Haze x NL)......I love them both SOOOOO much.

I'll begin posting pics once the process is underway.

Now, for a few questions:
1) Does the type of sprayer/mister matter? does it have an impact on Ag particle size?
2) What is the optimal maturity level of a flower for pollination?
3) And I know that there are loads of variables but - ballpark -- say you pollinate a flowering bud the size of a Bic lighter. How many seeds would that bud yield?

Thanks for the help!!!

Zo
Now, for a few questions:
1) Does the type of sprayer/mister matter? does it have an impact on Ag particle size? Don't know would think finer is better
2) What is the optimal maturity level of a flower for pollination? By wk 3 they will take but really 4 or more and the seeds will fill the bud. Remember you will need at the bare min 5wks to get some mature seeds, the best results are 6wks plus for mass fully mature seeds. This usually means you're taking the plant well past it's normal cut time, do it if you want good seeds.
3) And I know that there are loads of variables but - ballpark -- say you pollinate a flowering bud the size of a Bic lighter. How many seeds would that bud yield? Depending upon how much pollen exposure, the age into flower, and the time you let them mature, anywhere from 5 to 30
 

EverythingsHazy

Well-Known Member
Great post!!!! I should have my .999 silver by the end of the week. All other supplies are set (cell phone charger, etc.).
My goal is to produce 20-25 seeds of 3 different strains that I've been growing for a few years.
I've been propagating by clone up to now.

I'll be spraying a few branches of:
Marionberry Kush (TGA), Strawberry Amnesia (Dinafem), and Fruit Punch (Heavyweight). I have 2 of each in veg right now, and I always take clones before flipping to 12/12. So, I'll have backup if my first attempt fails.
Right now, my plan is to only spray a few branches of each strain to produce enough pollen to pollinate a few buds on the same plant. No fancies, or crosses here!!! I just want to hit my goal of 20-25 healthy, viable seeds of each strain. (Although....I'm tempted to cross my Strawberry (Original Strawberry Cough × Original Amnesia) and Fruit P
(Skunk x Haze x NL)......I love them both SOOOOO much.

I'll begin posting pics once the process is underway.

Now, for a few questions:
1) Does the type of sprayer/mister matter? does it have an impact on Ag particle size?
2) What is the optimal maturity level of a flower for pollination?
3) And I know that there are loads of variables but - ballpark -- say you pollinate a flowering bud the size of a Bic lighter. How many seeds would that bud yield?

Thanks for the help!!!

Zo
You're welcome, man! Glad to be able to help.

As for your questions, I pretty much agree with what WattSaver said.

Now, for a few questions:
1) Does the type of sprayer/mister matter? does it have an impact on Ag particle size? Don't know would think finer is better
2) What is the optimal maturity level of a flower for pollination? By wk 3 they will take but really 4 or more and the seeds will fill the bud. Remember you will need at the bare min 5wks to get some mature seeds, the best results are 6wks plus for mass fully mature seeds. This usually means you're taking the plant well past it's normal cut time, do it if you want good seeds.
3) And I know that there are loads of variables but - ballpark -- say you pollinate a flowering bud the size of a Bic lighter. How many seeds would that bud yield? Depending upon how much pollen exposure, the age into flower, and the time you let them mature, anywhere from 5 to 30
As long as you can get a mist vs a stream, for maximum surface area coverage, the Cs should work well. You should be able to get a spray bottle capable of that at the 99cents store.

Definitely be sure to allow for 5-6 weeks for mature seeds at least. I would wait until they come out without needing to be plucked. If you squeeze a seed between your thumb and index finger, it shouldn't flatten, unless it isn't mature, or otherwise unviable.

Depending on the thickness of the bud, and your pollination technique, 5-30 sounds like a god bet.. If you use a lot of pollen, when the bud is covered in fresh pistils, I wouldn't be surprised to see you hit the higher range. What you can do, is take the plant out of the grow room, cover the bud you want to pollinate, mist the rest of the plant so it kills any stray pollen on the buds you don't want seeded, and then remove the cover on the bud that you do want seeded, and pollinate it.


Thank you sooooooo much for this !!!!!!!!!
Thank you for this post! I am currently about to start spraying my plants and this clarified a few things for me as this is my first attempt at making seeds. Awesome post!
You're welcome! You should post your results here, if you try it.
 

ZoBudd

Well-Known Member
Now, for a few questions:
1) Does the type of sprayer/mister matter? does it have an impact on Ag particle size? Don't know would think finer is better
2) What is the optimal maturity level of a flower for pollination? By wk 3 they will take but really 4 or more and the seeds will fill the bud. Remember you will need at the bare min 5wks to get some mature seeds, the best results are 6wks plus for mass fully mature seeds. This usually means you're taking the plant well past it's normal cut time, do it if you want good seeds.
3) And I know that there are loads of variables but - ballpark -- say you pollinate a flowering bud the size of a Bic lighter. How many seeds would that bud yield? Depending upon how much pollen exposure, the age into flower, and the time you let them mature, anywhere from 5 to 30
Thanks for the good advice. A follow up question to your comment about maturing seeds for 6 wks+. Makes total sense.
So, if we stick with my scenario where I'm only pollinating one branch, and "cut time" comes, how much of the plant can I harvest and still keep it alive for a few more weeks?
 

ZoBudd

Well-Known Member
Uhp! I have another question. Since I'm only isolating and spraying one branch, can I continue foliar applications to the rest of the plant? And what about once I'm done spraying, can I foliar feed the treated branch?
I use an aloe+coconut H2O+Silicon spray once a week and a neem oil spray during veg/early flower.
 

EverythingsHazy

Well-Known Member
Uhp! I have another question. Since I'm only isolating and spraying one branch, can I continue foliar applications to the rest of the plant? And what about once I'm done spraying, can I foliar feed the treated branch?
I use an aloe+coconut H2O+Silicon spray once a week and a neem oil spray during veg/early flower.
Why do you spray silicone on the plants?
Likely, the branch that you spray with CS won't become full of seeds, because it will make male flowers, so you'll want to use the pollen from that branch, on another fully female bud with lots of pistils.
 

ZoBudd

Well-Known Member
Why do you spray silicone on the plants?
Likely, the branch that you spray with CS won't become full of seeds, because it will make male flowers, so you'll want to use the pollen from that branch, on another fully female bud with lots of pistils.
I use Si as an emulsifier for neem oil and other homemade concoctions instead of dishsoap.
I think my foliar feeding and Ag treatment schedules got mixed up here. I'm new at this, so I may not be using the right terms. Let me try again with a one plant description:

I am getting ready to treat one branch of a female plant with colloidal Ag to produce female pollen. The plant is a Fruit Punch clone that has been vegging for about 4 weeks. My standard regime in veg includes spraying and foliar feeding about once a week - including this plant. SO, now that I'm ready to treat this one branch. Should I stop all foliar feeding of the entire plant?
 

WattSaver

Well-Known Member
@EverythingsHazy I just started my 3rd attempt, I failed my 1st 2. This time instead of using the generator I bought the smallest particle size CS I could find. It's 120ppm and I've cut it to 30ppm. Been spraying twice a day for the past wk, and just flipped today. Only working on one side of one plant, but there is some overspray on the other half, i'm not to anal on my spray control. Have 3 other plants to receive if I get some pollen. Most likely over sprayed the first few days, leaf started to curl and look damaged. I reduced the volume of spray and tried to hit just the node area on the branches. Plant looks much better now. Going to continue on this path.

Would appreciate any criticism or advice.
 

EverythingsHazy

Well-Known Member
I use Si as an emulsifier for neem oil and other homemade concoctions instead of dishsoap.
I think my foliar feeding and Ag treatment schedules got mixed up here. I'm new at this, so I may not be using the right terms. Let me try again with a one plant description:

I am getting ready to treat one branch of a female plant with colloidal Ag to produce female pollen. The plant is a Fruit Punch clone that has been vegging for about 4 weeks. My standard regime in veg includes spraying and foliar feeding about once a week - including this plant. SO, now that I'm ready to treat this one branch. Should I stop all foliar feeding of the entire plant?
I would think that feeding the plant shouldn't affect this in any way, unless you are feeding it copper.

hope you don;t mind but this is for folk who need C.S for health use

@Tim Fox heres a circuit to make the way i mentioned, looks like pee if you do it right
A yellow solution just means that the particles are larger. The solution goes from clear->amber->grey, as the particle size increases.

@EverythingsHazy I just started my 3rd attempt, I failed my 1st 2. This time instead of using the generator I bought the smallest particle size CS I could find. It's 120ppm and I've cut it to 30ppm. Been spraying twice a day for the past wk, and just flipped today. Only working on one side of one plant, but there is some overspray on the other half, i'm not to anal on my spray control. Have 3 other plants to receive if I get some pollen. Most likely over sprayed the first few days, leaf started to curl and look damaged. I reduced the volume of spray and tried to hit just the node area on the branches. Plant looks much better now. Going to continue on this path.

Would appreciate any criticism or advice.
What brand are you using? A lot of times, storebought spray will burn the plant pretty badly, esp on the leaves.
If you are going to be using that one, I'd try to use a sheet of cardboard or something to shield the rest of the plant from the overspray, but it might not be necessary/ You just want to make sure the plant is healthy enough to make a good amount of pollen and then seeds.

What ppm was the homemade stuff you tried? Have any pics of it?
 

WattSaver

Well-Known Member
I would think that feeding the plant shouldn't affect this in any way, unless you are feeding it copper.


A yellow solution just means that the particles are larger. The solution goes from clear->amber->grey, as the particle size increases.


What brand are you using? A lot of times, storebought spray will burn the plant pretty badly, esp on the leaves.
If you are going to be using that one, I'd try to use a sheet of cardboard or something to shield the rest of the plant from the overspray, but it might not be necessary/ You just want to make sure the plant is healthy enough to make a good amount of pollen and then seeds.

What ppm was the homemade stuff you tried? Have any pics of it?
My first failed attempt, I bought the real cheap CS and it was garbage, and it burnt the shit out of the plant, it was advertised as 30ppm. Next attempt I made myself and I'm sure I went to far. The solution was grey and cloudy, I filtered it twice but was never quite clear. It did trash the leaf but kept on growing, and did start to make balls after 6wks of spraying, but never popped open. I never tested the ppm, didn't want to stick the probe of my $250 meter into the shit.

I tried to find a pic but couldn't.

This time I bought "Guardian of Eden" LINK its made using hydrogen peroxide and not electrolysis. Their speal is the particle size is sub nano and small enough to be used on a cellular level. Who knows what the truth is, but it's the product I'm using. Even full strength at 120ppm it's perfectly clear but thicker than water.

I've noticed that the glands on the main stalk at every branch look like they are leaning male compared the the hairs on the untreated clones. Keeping my fingers crossed.
 

EverythingsHazy

Well-Known Member
My first failed attempt, I bought the real cheap CS and it was garbage, and it burnt the shit out of the plant, it was advertised as 30ppm. Next attempt I made myself and I'm sure I went to far. The solution was grey and cloudy, I filtered it twice but was never quite clear. It did trash the leaf but kept on growing, and did start to make balls after 6wks of spraying, but never popped open. I never tested the ppm, didn't want to stick the probe of my $250 meter into the shit.

I tried to find a pic but couldn't.

This time I bought "Guardian of Eden" LINK its made using hydrogen peroxide and not electrolysis. Their speal is the particle size is sub nano and small enough to be used on a cellular level. Who knows what the truth is, but it's the product I'm using. Even full strength at 120ppm it's perfectly clear but thicker than water.

I've noticed that the glands on the main stalk at every branch look like they are leaning male compared the the hairs on the untreated clones. Keeping my fingers crossed.
Good luck, this time.

Btw, if you are using something that is burning the plant, perhaps diluting it, and applying more often, would be less stressful on the living tissue.

What generator did you use to make your own?
 

WattSaver

Well-Known Member
Good luck, this time.

Btw, if you are using something that is burning the plant, perhaps diluting it, and applying more often, would be less stressful on the living tissue.

What generator did you use to make your own?
I built the gen and The power source was 12V .875amp This was several yrs back, I've since read that higher voltage with lower amps makes the smallest particles, but I don't have the tools to test this so I can't say it's true.

Spraying lighter instead of soaking each application has made a big difference in how the plant looks and is still growing. The 2 main branches I'm spraying started at 17" and did no growth for the first 4 days when I saturated in veg, reduced amount 3 more days of veg and 2 of flower and it's now over 24". I'll also be watching the other 1/2 of the plant because it's getting a smaller dose with the overspray.
 

WattSaver

Well-Known Member
One other thought, how old are the clones you use for reversing???

In all my attempts I've used old clones 8 to 10 wks since cut.

I wonder if It's better to work with a 4 to 6 wk cut??
 

EverythingsHazy

Well-Known Member
One other thought, how old are the clones you use for reversing???

In all my attempts I've used old clones 8 to 10 wks since cut.

I wonder if It's better to work with a 4 to 6 wk cut??
I've never tried it on clones. I think starting application a several days before switching your lights over to make sure the plant is full of silver particles when it begins flowering, would help.

If you are using clones, you might want to try just growing out one in a small pot and reversing the entire thing. That should give you plenty of pollen to use on other plants, including other clones of the same strain.
 
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