Advanced Lighting Spectrums for T5 Floro and LED

Fonzarelli

Active Member
PF, what kind of super high powered neutral white LEDs are they using in that forum you posted awhile back. They are like 75w or something? They are having great results without any additional PAR wavelengths added. Not Analog's thread, I have that link still, but the other one. I had to reformat my hard drive after that virus attack. I lost all of my bookmarks.

Would you please re-post the link to that thread?

Making me think that a couple Kessil h350 Magenta added to these Neutral Whites would be a good combo.
 

polyarcturus

Well-Known Member
Poly, are you looking for a high pressure/low flow pump? If so, you should check out the pump I posted on PF's journal awhile back. Pushes 120psi at .1 gallons/minute. I own two of them. It's a really nice pump.
its a drip system i may not be buying a new pump, i was talking to another user on here to finish up my designs(shit is getting pricy too 7bills) basically i had tried everything to stop a siphon short buying a vacuum breaker valve that i would not be able utilize properly. so he clued me in on the way to set up a check valve for my system to stop the siphon.
bout 10$ in pvc tho:/ heres the pump im gonna get if the check valve set up doesnt bring my pressure up,
http://www.harborfreight.com/34-horsepower-clear-water-pump-69297.html
 

Fonzarelli

Active Member
i dont know why he said that, thats none of his biz, not like anybody criticizes him on his weed smoking or whatever he does.

and your right not all white leds, regardless of designation, white, warm, cool, ect. are gonna have the same nm peaks, those are just marketing terms they do not specifically tell you the spectrum so you cant make any call NM wise off that info. and most important all the companys are making thier led different so thee are all types of spectra's of leds out there.
Yeah, I hear that.

Even if we are using mostly white LEDs, we are forgetting that they consist of a lot of yellow and green, which is mostly pointless. Wasted watts. Still a step forward though. We need to find what the ratio of green:red/blue/orange is at the point of red/blue saturation. Then we can determine how much Neutral white power to use.
 

Fonzarelli

Active Member
its a drip system i may not be buying a new pump, i was talking to another user on here to finish up my designs(shit is getting pricy too 7bills) basically i had tried everything to stop a siphon short buying a vacuum breaker valve that i would not be able utilize properly. so he clued me in on the way to set up a check valve for my system to stop the siphon.
bout 10$ in pvc tho:/ heres the pump im gonna get if the check valve set up doesnt bring my pressure up,
http://www.harborfreight.com/34-horsepower-clear-water-pump-69297.html
I have a check valve I'm not even using anymore. It connects with 3/8" push-in quick fittings on each side. That's the LDPE type of tubing. I don't see how a check valve is going to help you though. Check valves only let water through in one direction, which is the same direction as a siphon would flow. You are still going to get siphoning action with a check valve.
 

polyarcturus

Well-Known Member
im using 1/2 pvc tubing(not pipe rubber tubing) or i would ask for it. that would be so much simpler than making a pvc tube fitting.

you put it at the top above pump in a T facing the water, water flow starts pressure closes it, water flow stop pressure releases flap inside valve opens and air breaks vacuum.
 

Fonzarelli

Active Member
im using 1/2 pvc tubing(not pipe rubber tubing) or i would ask for it. that would be so much simpler than making a pvc tube fitting.
I have 1/2" NPT x 3/8" push-in adapters, but you would have to neck your line down to 3/8" at that point which might not work for your setup.

For my drip system, I use gravity feed. I limit my nute selection to less viscous nutrients so that they don't clog. I use Blumat drippers for the gravity feed line.
 

polyarcturus

Well-Known Member
hmmm? i just need a good amount of pressure so all the emitters flow evenly and i can put 20 4gph emitters on each mainline, 3 total
 

polyarcturus

Well-Known Member
water till moist? there is no runoff, and no returning the water, i simple couldn't find smaller emitters locally... i only turn the system on for a min or 2, twice a day. :)

goofy i know, there are better ways to go about it im sure, but i made do with what i was able to get and cheap at that. i had a tough time finding emitters, i would half are 2gph and half are 4gph
 

Fonzarelli

Active Member
water till moist? there is no runoff, and no returning the water, i simple couldn't find smaller emitters locally... i only turn the system on for a min or 2, twice a day. :)

goofy i know, there are better ways to go about it im sure, but i made do with what i was able to get and cheap at that. i had a tough time finding emitters, i would half are 2gph and half are 4gph
Oh I see, you are running a timer. What you need is a solenoid, not a check-valve. A check-valve is to prevent "reverse flow." Plug the solenoid into your timer with your pump and you will stop the siphoning. Otherwise, put your rez lower than your plants(if possible) so that it won't keep siphoning.
 

hammer21

Well-Known Member
Easy vacuum break The pressure side of your pump just put a tee there and use 1/4" tubing back to your reservoir tank just make sure 1/4" line is above water level when pump shuts off 1/4" line will suck air and no more vacuum.
 

polyarcturus

Well-Known Member
Oh I see, you are running a timer. What you need is a solenoid, not a check-valve. A check-valve is to prevent "reverse flow." Plug the solenoid into your timer with your pump and you will stop the siphoning. Otherwise, put your rez lower than your plants(if possible) so that it won't keep siphoning.
yeah i thought about this too i figured if the solinoid was on it would hold the water like a straw. so im in between check valve and solenoid, so what evers cheaper ill do first. the hard part might be finding a solenoid valve for AC elec.


res cant go no lower and plants no higher unfortunately.
 

polyarcturus

Well-Known Member
Easy vacuum break The pressure side of your pump just put a tee there and use 1/4" tubing back to your reservoir tank just make sure 1/4" line is above water level when pump shuts off 1/4" line will suck air and no more vacuum.
pressure loss is too great with 60 emitters.
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
PF, what kind of super high powered neutral white LEDs are they using in that forum you posted awhile back. They are like 75w or something? They are having great results without any additional PAR wavelengths added. Not Analog's thread, I have that link still, but the other one. I had to reformat my hard drive after that virus attack. I lost all of my bookmarks.

Would you please re-post the link to that thread?

Making me think that a couple Kessil h350 Magenta added to these Neutral Whites would be a good combo.
I'll keep an eye out for the all Neutral White thread.

Why are we still having a conversation regarding wasted watts from neutral whites?

All spectrums play a role; it's the ratios of those spectrums that we are attempting to dial in. Since the Cree NWs have an excellent overall spectral balance, I would not concern myself with the few so-called 'wasted spectrums'
 

Fonzarelli

Active Member
I'll keep an eye out for the all Neutral White thread.

Why are we still having a conversation regarding wasted watts from neutral whites?

All spectrums play a role; it's the ratios of those spectrums that we are attempting to dial in. Since the Cree NWs have an excellent overall spectral balance, I would not concern myself with the few so-called 'wasted spectrums'
Because if the RATIO isn't correct, then you ARE wasting watts. The answer is in your post. Neutral whites DO work, but they aren't the best. Plants will still benefit from a finely tuned spectrum OVER a spectrum that consists of all neutral whites. Same idea as what Analog is doing over in IC by adding Neutral Whites to his Magenta LEDs. He's not using the Neutral Whites as his main source of light. He's only using them as supplement light. The Magenta LEDs are the main light source.

Using only Neutral whites is not optimizing energy used. Plain and simple. If we are not concerned with perfecting the spectrum, why have any conversation at all? Just use Neutral White LEDs if you like how they work for you. No one is stopping you. But the whole point of the led without led thread AND this thread, is to fine tune a spectrum WITHOUT WASTING more energy than necessary by using MORE of the 95% + absorbed wavelengths and less of the wavelengths that ARE NOT as efficiently absorbed.

Regardless of what type of technology you use for producing light, the whole point of this thread is to try to use more of the highly absorbed light and less of the light that is least absorbed, therefor MINIMIZING energy loss AND minimizing heat loss.

If you use ALL Neutral White LEDs, you are going to have an abundance of YELLOW wavelengths, which are not as absorbed. THEREFORE WASTED WATTS. Comprende? LOL
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Fonz, Until recently, whites in general were too expensive, which is/was the primary motivation to mix spectrums

HPS is primarily yellow, and yet...


Analog was among the first I've seen to incorporate NWs. No doubt due to reading that the Magenta (R/B) alone was spectrally challenged for mj at least

On 8/8 Analogue said "
fwiw, the cree neutral whites added 21.7 watts. i have more modules to install but may use them for a veg light I'm not sure. watts of HPS before. we are at 63% of the wattage we used to use for HPS.

On 8/14 Rives said
Looking very nice, Analogue. Regarding your earlier post on the white LED's, I had been using the white circuit on my new "Volks" fixture to get some clones rolling. They responded so well that I pulled out several of the 660nm reds and added 3 more of the cool whites for a total of 6 cool whites and 2 reds evenly divided on two drivers, about 104 watts gross. I'm going to continue vegging with this arrangement and see how it works out.

Rives is using CWs cause he owned them


I contend that since the NWs have all the spectrums in abundance that the plant will use what it needs and not be held back. Now I could be wrong about this, it's just a hunch, but evidence seems to be mountng.

If I had the need (and spare cash) I would buy a DIY specifying all CREE NWs
and another mixing colors then do a side-by-side
 

Fonzarelli

Active Member
Fonz, Until recently, whites in general were too expensive, which is/was the primary motivation to mix spectrums

HPS is primarily yellow, and yet...


Analog was among the first I've seen to incorporate NWs. No doubt due to reading that the Magenta (R/B) alone was spectrally challenged for mj at least

On 8/8 Analogue said "
fwiw, the cree neutral whites added 21.7 watts. i have more modules to install but may use them for a veg light I'm not sure. watts of HPS before. we are at 63% of the wattage we used to use for HPS.

On 8/14 Rives said
Looking very nice, Analogue. Regarding your earlier post on the white LED's, I had been using the white circuit on my new "Volks" fixture to get some clones rolling. They responded so well that I pulled out several of the 660nm reds and added 3 more of the cool whites for a total of 6 cool whites and 2 reds evenly divided on two drivers, about 104 watts gross. I'm going to continue vegging with this arrangement and see how it works out.

Rives is using CWs cause he owned them


I contend that since the NWs have all the spectrums in abundance that the plant will use what it needs and not be held back. Now I could be wrong about this, it's just a hunch, but evidence seems to be mountng.

If I had the need (and spare cash) I would buy a DIY specifying all CREE NWs
and another mixing colors then do a side-by-side
Analog said that he hasn't really seen a difference between adding the extra white and not having the white in there. I don't think he has had enough time to experiment with it though. He just said that after adding the neutral white leds, he hasn't noticed a big change.

We can't use this one grow to go by. We need to compare other grows. More info, LOTS MORE.

I like the idea about using the Cool whites and a couple Reds. He said he's using that mixture for veg, so it would make sense that there is much less red in it. The Cool whites were recommended to me awhile ago from someone else and I was doubtful at first, but he made a few good points that they are very much more efficient than neutrals or warm whites. That's a huge plus since we are all trying to conserve energy while producing similar results to HID.

See, I look at the HPS lamp and I see how deficient that spectrum is, yet it works. Quite well for some, especially in hydro. I've also read that yellow light can be harmful to plants. It's very contradictory information we have here. You would think a red/blue spectrum WOULD work the best since plants absorb up to 95% of that wavelength. Yet, many have quite a few problems using a red/blue only spectrum.

I have a tendency to believe from this that LUMENS do actually play a role in bud density. Lumens do refer mainly to the Green, Yellow and Orange wavelengths since those have the highest quantum yield(energy per photon packet or whatever).

I know that Neutral Whites work well on their own for veg through flower. I'm sure Cool whites would work fine on their own for veg, but not for flower. If whites are the only color used, than I would go with Neutral Whites. I like how simple it is. I would like to see more grows utilizing them as a stand alone light source.

All of these other "multi-colored" light brite style 100-band bullshit LEDs are really starting to piss me off. When are these companies going to stop lying to their customers and just produce something that works. What we need is a single point, high quality light source that emits 300-600w like a HPS or MH does, but with a nicer spectral output like that of a Neutral White led.

Until then, I don't think we will see the same bud density as HPS or MH unless it's through some kind of red/blue type of mixture that actually works. Don't think it will happen though, because I am now starting to believe that green, yellow and orange play a huge role in bud density because they are BRIGHT and put out the highest lumen output over all of the other wavelengths in the entire spectrum. They also have the ability to penetrate the canopy and get to the bottom parts of the bush.

If anyone does try some grows with Neutral White leds, use the ones that are 100w-100 chip under one lens with a really nice reflector added onto the board. Try 5 of them on separate heat sinks and put them in a 4' x 4' area and I think we will start seeing the density we are looking for but don't forget to wear your shades because it's gonna be super fucking bright in there. Holy shit that was super long.
 
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