Analog timer overheating

LeastExpectedGrower

Well-Known Member
I use the BN Link mechanical timers but never notice them getting warm, and run less than 500 watts through them. Most important thing is to check all your connections regularly.
This is the one I'm using right now @ 675w and it's been solid and no issues, no extra heat.
 

speedwell68

Well-Known Member
I use 10amp/2400w Smartlife or Sonoff smart switches. I have had so many mechanical timers fail on me down the years.
 

futurebanjo

Well-Known Member
cheaper timers might only be rated for 300w or even less, and are only designed for small things things like christmas tree lights and table lamps etc. so if you are pulling 600w through one, you're going to have a major problem.

The easiest solution is to buy a timer from a grow shop rather than a cheap ebay special, but either way, you NEED to ensure its rated for more watts than you are ever going to plug hardware into - if the product doesn't state how many watts it's rated for, assume it's junk and look elsewhere.

For example I have a timer rated for up to 600w, but the only thing plugged into it is a 300w light, simmilar to this https://www.growell.co.uk/grow-room-tools/other-tools-hardware/heavy-duty-lighting-timer-and-contactor-5675.html
 
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Star Dog

Well-Known Member
With cheap timers the contacts spark each time there's a connection made, that repeated sparking will eventually weld the contact or burn the contacts out, a relay switch is designed to deal with heavier loads the plug n grow for example is 22 amps it can run a 1kw ballast without any problems, they shouldn't heat up.

I'd forgotten I've a 40 amp Maxibright timer in the cupboard, it's probably worth a few quid.
 

futurebanjo

Well-Known Member
Anecdotally, before I went LED, I had an HPS balast with two mains plugs, one labled 'timer' which basically functioned as a low power on/off switch, and a second one labled 'power', which drew the power... this enabled you to use a cheaper timer and not having to pull 400w+ through a cheap timer.

I thought that was a really cool design/idea.

This is the timer I currenty use.. http://www.grow-lumii.com/products/lumii-heavy-duty-timer/ just for one 300w light. Strangley it says on the back, max 3000w?!?! but the grow shop I bought it from said its max 600w...quite a big difference. It works fine though and never gets warm, and not expensive...


...more expensive than the really cheap timers though.
 

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Roadblock007

Well-Known Member
Fucking 2000w in a socket... Crazy:o! Anyway I was thinking about ordering it on amazon but I'm shitting myself after hearing your opinions so tomorrow that I'm not working I'll go directly physically and solve the problem right away.. I thank you guys!
You understand a space heater will pull 2400 watts, an electric kettle will full 1800 to 2400 watts, clothes drier will pull 2400 watts, which is all the rated max of a normal 10amp circuit, the problem is how many outlets are on the same circuit, growers will set up a room and everything runs through a single 10 amp circuit that's where problems can overload it, people need to spread the load.

The best way for grow lights is to run a contactor switch and the timer turns that on and off, its simple to set up and you will never have issues with timers, any electrical supplier sells them and its 2 wires from the timer to the contactor then to the appliance, these fancy plug units in hydro shops they charge a leg for are just a box with contactors in it.

 
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farmerfischer

Well-Known Member
You understand a space heater will pull 2400 watts, an electric kettle will full 1800 to 2400 watts, clothes drier will pull 2400 watts, which is all the rated max of a normal 10amp circuit, the problem is how many outlets are on the same circuit, growers will set up a room and everything runs through a single 10 amp circuit that's where problems can overload it, people need to spread the load.

The best way for grow lights is to run a contactor switch and the timer turns that on and off, its simple to set up and you will never have issues with timers, any electrical supplier sells them and its 2 wires to the timer and two to the appliance, these fancy plug units in hydro shops they charge a leg for are just a box with contactors in it.
Where are you from? A house hold breaker is 15 to 30 amps and are designed to pop at or just above 1750 watts. All of the heaters and microwaves only run up to 1500watts here..
 

farmerfischer

Well-Known Member
Aus we are 240 volts our circuits are 10amp standard. I guess its just same volts divided into watts to get the amps.
I kind of figured you were not in the u.s. by the wattage you were saying.. there isnt tomany appliances here that are over 1500 watts and if they are their on a 220 circut.. like a electric clothes drier or stove/oven..
 
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