Sinstyle702
New Member
I really want to thank you guys for taking the time to look at my pics and help out, it means a lot
Any help appreciated
- Thread starter Sinstyle702
- Start date
I really want to thank you guys for taking the time to look at my pics and help out, it means a lot
Roger A. Shrubber
Well-Known Member
thats too high for coco, i've run it for two years now and 6.1 has worked really well for me. i let it drift a little, drop down to 5.8, go up to 6 .2, but never higher than that
Johnei
Well-Known Member
Same here, when I ran coco a bunch of times trying to figure out in the beginning days deficiencies and what's goin on and all kinds of wierd issues, I settled at pH 6.1 was the sweet spot and then everything went well after that. I competely agree with everything you said, 6.1 works best.
Sinstyle702
New Member
I'm thinking that might have something to do with it also. I might have done to much reading and got confused lol I didn't check ph for a while (I read a couple places that ph doesn't matter in soil or coco) so I thought the coco would buff it to its own ph but common sense says what goes in will probably change it lol I'm thinking I was way off there
Roger A. Shrubber
Well-Known Member
you very well might have dry pockets, coco will do that if you don't wet it down good regularly. i'd suggest waiting till they're very dry, then set your pots in a bucket of water for a couple of minutes each, then set them up on something so they get a chance to drain real well. if you have any dry pockets in your pots, that'll wet em down and get rid of them.
coco is a strange medium, but very easy to work with once you get used to it. when your coco is fresh, it will absorb calcium and magnesium, so you have to add extra. Once your meet its deficit, all the sudden you don't have to supplement it anymore, you have plenty. That usually happens around the second or third week of flower, so about two weeks into flower, cut back on the cal-mag by about 75%. but, right now, you have to add a good bit.
coco is a strange medium, but very easy to work with once you get used to it. when your coco is fresh, it will absorb calcium and magnesium, so you have to add extra. Once your meet its deficit, all the sudden you don't have to supplement it anymore, you have plenty. That usually happens around the second or third week of flower, so about two weeks into flower, cut back on the cal-mag by about 75%. but, right now, you have to add a good bit.
Sinstyle702
New Member
Ok got it that's probably where the yellowing and spots are coming from in that plant then right?
Sinstyle702
New Member
That's good to know, that's how you get rid of dry pockets. I didn't know calmag builds up then you don't need it any more thanks for the info
Roger A. Shrubber
Well-Known Member
probably a contributing factor. ph imbalance causes lockouts of certain nutrients. magnesium requires a ph of at least 6.0 to be absorbed, but that starts to lockout iron. thats why i say let it bounce once in a while, stay around 6.1, but a couple of times a month water at 5.8, then go back to 6.1...it won't hurt to go up to 6.2 or 3 once in a while, but center on 6.1
Johnei
Well-Known Member
To clarify for you...
Coco at a microscopic level has empty spaces in it that the first time you use it wants to 'steal' and suck into those empty spaces and fill its matrix with certain elements. So when you first water with nutrient solution, certain elements dont go to your plants, the coco 'steals' it and fills those gaps. So you have to condition the coco the first time when you use, fill those gaps properly, then all future nutrient feeds wil actually go to the plant. (Read about Coco preperation for first time use.) I hope this helps you understand a little more.
(OUCH just tried getting up from my chair and SMASHED my big toe in corner of table.. AAAAAAHHHHHHHH)
Sinstyle702
New Member
Ok I got it that makes perfect sense thanks
Sinstyle702
New Member
Wow ok I need to look that up thank you
coreywebster
Well-Known Member
Correct.
Not sure on your doubts about PH down. But the key is to only add a small amount of down (usually)and get it right so your not using down then up then down. That would increase the the ec too much since PH up is potassium hydroxide and ph down is phosphoric acid.
