ANYONE have a grow room that can do what mine can

irieie

Well-Known Member
record is 5in from 600w bulb(ballast set to super lumens) for 2 1/2 hours before temp hit above 83 degrees at tops(need more a/c or smaller room ...grrr)i also test light heat by holding hand palm down under bulb for a min.
with no heat stress signs i have plants tops at 8 inches away besides that.
awesome people !!!! most you guys/girls didnt say your bulb distance.
my room is about 5x8ft with a/c and a oscillating fan. bat wing light reflector. ballast set to super lumens = 20-30% more lumens . using a 600w super hps bulb= 10-15% more lumens,worked plants light stress up to 8 inches and closer without leaf bleaching

The plants function best in moderate temperatures - between 60 and 85 degrees. As more light is made available, the ideal temperature for normal plant growth increases. <---- this is why i let my temps get into the 80's
is this guy still serious? wtf?
 

Mrfootball420

Well-Known Member
. A mature plant can process about 2,000 PPM of CO2 at 84 F receiving 5,000 lumens, same plant at 69 F will only be able to use half that amount. Cold water can 'hold' . A fully aerated solution at 20C/68 F is 9 - 10ppm;
i dont know if this is what you are talking about or not

this is exactly what i was talking about, gold star for you sir. most people get hung up on getting temps in the mid 70s but that is not optimal for a plant. optimal is 85`f. i was just poking fun at the op.
 

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
Couple notes;
A plants ability to split co2 into sugars is a function of PAR not lumens but yeah, since bulbs are consistently compared to each other via lumens.. I see where your coming from.

"optimal" temperature for plants is not 85 degrees. 85 is the correct temperature for optimal co2 intake, they will actually uptake MORE co2 at 90 degrees in lower humidity. But co2 uptake is not what most growers are trying to achieve. I think if you talk to experienced growers with many grows under their belt utilizing supplemental co2 they will say that you get a higher quality product with temperatures that never get over 85. More in the 80 degree max range. Higher daytime temperatures, even with co2 can result in stretching and less dense buds that have lower aroma and lower THC amounts.

you will sacrifice a tiny amount of yield but the end product will be higher quality. In my experience, the quality was immediately noticeable.

This is just something you have to learn over time, the "recommended" numbers are all over the fucking board. Your probably pissing money away generating 2,000 PPM of co2 though. That is the highest of highest uptake rates assuming all other conditions are perfect (light intensity, humidity, moisture content) Most grows are less than perfect however.
 

Mrfootball420

Well-Known Member
Proper temperature is one highly variable factor. Most books state optimum grow temperature to be 70-80 degrees, but many list extenuating circumstances that allow temperatures to go higher.Assuming genetics is not a factor, marijuana plants seem to be able to absorb more light at higher temps, perhaps up to 90 degrees. High light and CO2 levels could make this go as high as 95 degrees for increased marijuana growth speed.* An optimum of 95 degrees is new data that assumes very-high light, CO2 enrichment of 1500 ppm and good regular venting to keep humidity down. It is not clear if these temperature will reduce potency in flowers. It may be a good idea to reduce temperatures once flowering has started, to preserve potency, even if it does reduce growth speed. But higher temperatures will make plants grow vegetatively much faster, by exciting the plants metabolism, assuming the required levels of CO2 and light are available, and humidity is not allowed to get too high.
With normal levels of CO2, in a well vented space, 90 degrees would seem to be the absolute max, while 85 may be closer to optimum, even with a great deal of light available. Do not let the room temperature get over 35 C (95 F) as this hurts growth. Optimal temperature is 27-30 C (80-86 F) if you have strong light with no CO2 enrichment. Less than 21 C (70 F) is too cold for good growth.
Low temperatures at night are OK down to about 60 degrees outdoors, then start to effect the growth in a big way. Mid 50&#8217;s will cause mild shock and 40&#8217;s will kill your plants with repeated exposure. Keep your plants warm, especially the roots. Elevate pots if you think the ground is sucking the heat out of the roots. This is an issue if you have a slab or other type of cold floor.
As temperature goes up, so does the ability of the air to hold water, thus reducing humidity, so a higher average temperature should reduce risk of fungus.
Contrary to many reports, high humidity is not good for plants except during germination and rooting. Lower humidity levels help the plant transpire CO2 and reduce risk of molds during flowering.
Studies indicate the potency of buds goes down as the temperature goes up, so it is important to see that the plants do not get too hot during flowering cycles.
 

kushnotbush

Well-Known Member
Hey Tim, I think you'll find most guys here are pretty proud of their setup, with that being said most here have redesigned many times over... So definitely most guys laugh when you say 6 inches is as close as your lamp can be to your canopy. As some have said with the right fan and cool enough ambient air through a cool tube they can leave their hand on the tube all 12 hrs of the flower cycle without burn. That's what I am shooting for, I think if you have this setup going your tent temps are going to be close to ambient temps in your room. IME I generally try to stay below 80 even if I am pumping CO2, but YMMV. BTW my experience in that setup is limited to a 1KHPS until I recently went smaller, with a 600 you should be good.
Good luck and happy growing!
KnB
 
My room is 9x9x8high. I have 1inch thick sheets of styrofoam there 8x4 covering all walls and ceiling and taped joints. Got them at loes. My room will stay any temperature for a while 1000 watt,1 6inch exhaust fan,and 6inch fresh air fan.wall ac. Ebb and flo 6x6 table,fans ,water res ect. Keep it at 78. 45 humidity.flood it twice a day. In flower week 4. I tried a new product called" rapid start" I think general hydro puts it out. If u havent used it try it. Worth the money. Hydo store told me about it. I have had many harvests and with this stuff my roots are atleast 4 times longer and fatter. Its going into evey grow from now on. Just thought I would pass that on! Share the love
 

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
Lol. "new research". Where is the link then?

Rest assured, if you want fluffy ass buds or buds that have no aroma when dried, set the temp to 85 and crank the co2.

You REALY want fluffy garbage? Do the above AND let it cold when the lights go off.

It's like magic!
 

calicat

Well-Known Member
My grow area is a 10 x 12 area divided into three parts. In vegetation I run 4 fluoroscent bulbs and a 400 watt Metal Halide. In the flower area I have two 600 watt fixtures. I use passive airflow and my temperatures can range from 75-79 degrees.
 

Warlock1369

Well-Known Member
14x7x9 with 2600w flower can get it under 60 if I want. Linked is a 14x7x9 veg room with 4 different size T5. but I keep it at 80
 

ricky6991

Well-Known Member
8x4 flower tent with 3 1kw hps... 6" fan pushing through them and ac... temps stay at 74* sometimes they go higher to 78ish.
 
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