I am still a noob.
Forgive me.
Due to assuming heat and venting issues I opted not for a HID and I currently have a CFL setup containing 662w of 6400k and 52 watts of 6500k, LOL.
I always had a few questions on my mind.
Is 6400k all I needed for veg?
Would substituting some with 5000k or 5500k to widen the overall spectrum give better results or worse?
Is a narrow spectrum all that is needed ( and therefore most efficient), if so, what exact kelvin.
I understand people say "well I use this and my babies are fine".
But could they be finer for the same wattage and $?
Or people say "veg with 5000k to 6500k, and flower with 2700K to 3500K
I am broke, cheap, disabled, and have lots of time to kill and be anal-retentive.
LOL.
I wanted to do a bit of research before I put my little ones into flower and spend money foolishly on the wrong hardware or spectrum, etc..
I looked @ LED's.
hmm.
Maybe in 5-10 years when they are affordable per square foot.
Maybe when they can prove to flower.
From what I am hearing, any common household cfl spectrum (2700-6400k) will outperform red LED's in flowering.
Like I said.
I am cheap.
Move on.
I don't want major heat source in my low ceiling grow area. (but this is obviously cheapest hardware wise).
Move on.
OK.
That leaves me with Fluorescents......CFL's, T8's, etc.
So I guess I better find some facts.
---------------------------------------------------
Facts:
Chlorophyll A absoprtion peaks @ 430nm & 662nm.
Chlorophyll B absorption peaks @ 453nm & 642nm.
Common MH systems output approx. 14000k. -HID good for veg I hear
ok.
Common HPS systems output approx. 2100k. -HID good for flowering
I hear people comment on HPS flower size, density, weight to be the best.
See all attachments of Sun Spectrum, Nlites kelvin tests, Kelvin Locus chart, etc.
----------------------------------------------------
Ok So I am just going to run with some facts, and assume the rest like an ass.
Please tell me if I am right or wrong.
From the Locus chart it would appear that the lowest we could possibly go would be the best for the proper flowering chlorophyll absorption. I am guessing like 1200kelvin.
And the higher we go the best for veg......to a point due to the infinity axis.
With chlorophyll absorption during veg, it is my understanding that we only need to try to achieve the blue numbers and not the red?
And visa-vesa?
If so my hypothesis of my wasted time is:
The more I am learning, the more I think it would have been best to have a 11,000 - 25,000k vegging spectrum instead of my 100% 6400-6500k veg spectrum.
Actually 25,000k, design for tropicals, goes to a lower violet color spectrum closer to the desired chlorophyll absorption peak we want, but still shows signs of red.
The 11,000k designed for aquatic life has almost absolutely no red spectrum radiance.
Although it may not peak at the desired low 430-453nm , it is almost pure blue spectrum light and is most efficient looking in the chart,
And remember MH is commonly rated @ 14,000k.
I would go half 11,000k and half 25,000k if the products and brains were at my disposal at time.
Dunno if they even make a 11,000k CFL yet.lol.
And for flower (which is why I started this research before I blew money on all 2700k's).
I would look for a 2100k or lower.
I cannot find a actual test graph of a 2100k.
BUT.
Kelvin says to even go way lower to achieve peak absorption.
And HPS (2100k) is producing good bud for a reason.
I believe Kelvin knows the secret why.
It is my understanding that I want to achieve the most I can from, and around the peak blue nm absorption levels when in veg that I can WITHOUT producing the other color spectrums.
And visa-versa for the Flowering and the red peak absorption levels.
This should mean, I am getting the best peaking nm kelvin spectrum / watt.
OK.
My hands hurt.
So.
Am I stupid?
Forgive me.
Due to assuming heat and venting issues I opted not for a HID and I currently have a CFL setup containing 662w of 6400k and 52 watts of 6500k, LOL.
I always had a few questions on my mind.
Is 6400k all I needed for veg?
Would substituting some with 5000k or 5500k to widen the overall spectrum give better results or worse?
Is a narrow spectrum all that is needed ( and therefore most efficient), if so, what exact kelvin.
I understand people say "well I use this and my babies are fine".
But could they be finer for the same wattage and $?
Or people say "veg with 5000k to 6500k, and flower with 2700K to 3500K
I am broke, cheap, disabled, and have lots of time to kill and be anal-retentive.
LOL.
I wanted to do a bit of research before I put my little ones into flower and spend money foolishly on the wrong hardware or spectrum, etc..
I looked @ LED's.
hmm.
Maybe in 5-10 years when they are affordable per square foot.
Maybe when they can prove to flower.
From what I am hearing, any common household cfl spectrum (2700-6400k) will outperform red LED's in flowering.
Like I said.
I am cheap.
Move on.
I don't want major heat source in my low ceiling grow area. (but this is obviously cheapest hardware wise).
Move on.
OK.
That leaves me with Fluorescents......CFL's, T8's, etc.
So I guess I better find some facts.
---------------------------------------------------
Facts:
Chlorophyll A absoprtion peaks @ 430nm & 662nm.
Chlorophyll B absorption peaks @ 453nm & 642nm.
Common MH systems output approx. 14000k. -HID good for veg I hear
ok.
Common HPS systems output approx. 2100k. -HID good for flowering
I hear people comment on HPS flower size, density, weight to be the best.
See all attachments of Sun Spectrum, Nlites kelvin tests, Kelvin Locus chart, etc.
----------------------------------------------------
Ok So I am just going to run with some facts, and assume the rest like an ass.
Please tell me if I am right or wrong.
From the Locus chart it would appear that the lowest we could possibly go would be the best for the proper flowering chlorophyll absorption. I am guessing like 1200kelvin.
And the higher we go the best for veg......to a point due to the infinity axis.
With chlorophyll absorption during veg, it is my understanding that we only need to try to achieve the blue numbers and not the red?
And visa-vesa?
If so my hypothesis of my wasted time is:
The more I am learning, the more I think it would have been best to have a 11,000 - 25,000k vegging spectrum instead of my 100% 6400-6500k veg spectrum.
Actually 25,000k, design for tropicals, goes to a lower violet color spectrum closer to the desired chlorophyll absorption peak we want, but still shows signs of red.
The 11,000k designed for aquatic life has almost absolutely no red spectrum radiance.
Although it may not peak at the desired low 430-453nm , it is almost pure blue spectrum light and is most efficient looking in the chart,
And remember MH is commonly rated @ 14,000k.
I would go half 11,000k and half 25,000k if the products and brains were at my disposal at time.
Dunno if they even make a 11,000k CFL yet.lol.
And for flower (which is why I started this research before I blew money on all 2700k's).
I would look for a 2100k or lower.
I cannot find a actual test graph of a 2100k.
BUT.
Kelvin says to even go way lower to achieve peak absorption.
And HPS (2100k) is producing good bud for a reason.
I believe Kelvin knows the secret why.
It is my understanding that I want to achieve the most I can from, and around the peak blue nm absorption levels when in veg that I can WITHOUT producing the other color spectrums.
And visa-versa for the Flowering and the red peak absorption levels.
This should mean, I am getting the best peaking nm kelvin spectrum / watt.
OK.
My hands hurt.
So.
Am I stupid?