Automatic pH Controller

BUdbuddysmile

Active Member
I know I know, this is an old thread but come on, i've never seen this info anywhere before. Dude, are you serious? I've never heard that before, that would be so awesome! I've been manually checking them on 3 diff rez's everyday an its becoming a pain in the u know what!

Where do I get those products u mention? ie:
•Phosphoric acid
•Potassium Silicate
•Potassium Carbonate
•Potassium Hydroxide.

Does AN make them? and how much each do I add? your a lifesaver if you can save me from buying 3 separate automatic ph adjusters to handle this headache for me...
If your using AN you don't need to add any of this because it it buffered. Even the old formula is very pH stable. It zones into about 6.3 every time, so its perfect for soil with no adjustment. The new pH perfect zones into 5.7 and holds quite well for like 3-5 days before adjustment is needed. These extra added buffers would work well for a nutrient that is not very stable, at least I think… Ive only used pH up and Down solutions, but I guess it would make sense.
 

insan3

Well-Known Member
Sorry to bring up an old thread but i am looking into buying a unit or doing a diy for a ph adjuster. Anyone know of a unit or a diy for this ? Post # 13 has great info but i would take a long time to find those deals.


Found the info.
 

haole420

Active Member

It is not necessary to adjust the pH
if you have your solution properly buffered.

I can go for weeks without any adjustment,
after I have buffered my solution.

I just add plain RO,
with no pH adjustment,
and my pH is perfect at 5.6

There are four agents that you should use
in the correct combination
to get your solution to the proper state of buffer.

•Phosphoric acid
•Potassium Silicate
•Potassium Carbonate
•Potassium Hydroxide.

This can only be done with RO or Distilled water,
and a digital pH meter so you can maintain 5.6.

Use the P-silicate first,
and then the P-carbonate & P-hydroxide in combination.

It takes about four days of checking the pH,
at least twice a day,
to get the solution properly buffered,
depending on whether the mfg of the nutes
you are using has already buffered the nutes.

If you have unbuffered nutes,
then you may not need the Phosphoric acid.

Once you learn to buffer your solution
you will have less pH fluctuations.


.
potassium silicate is basically what's in rhino and other silicate boosters.

how does it function with regard to buffering pH?

what about pot carb and pot hydrox? can you explain the mech for buffering? a link perhaps?

thanks
 

GreenThumbSucker

Well-Known Member
potassium silicate is basically what's in rhino and other silicate boosters.

how does it function with regard to buffering pH?

what about pot carb and pot hydrox? can you explain the mech for buffering? a link perhaps?

thanks
Potassium silicate will raise the PH, but not provide any buffers. It does provide some silica, which has shown to be beneficial. To make a strong buffer, you want to get some potassium bicarbonate, which you can get at any beer/wine making shop. You can also get it on ebay cheaply. This is what commercial hydroponic greenhouses use for PH buffering.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Potassium-Bicarbonate-1-lb-/350574358104?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item519fdc2e58

To make a gallon of 13% potassium bicarbonate PH UP/Buffer mix 453 grams (1 lb) of potassium bicarbonate with one gallon of RO or distilled water. This will cost you about $7 and a gallon will last you a loooong time.

Potassium bicarbonate and potassium hydroxide are the main ingredients in PH up. They put a tiny amount of potassium bicarbonate in to say that it is buffered, but in such a small amount that it does not buffer for longer than a day or two. They do not make money if you do not keep consuming the product.

Potassium bicarbonate by itself is a fairly weak buffer. It must bind with calcium and magnesium to form strong, long lasting buffers in your solution. You want to add extra calcium and magnesium to your solution to assure that there is enough left for your plants to use after buffering. In short you must use a calcium/magnesium supplement with your calcium bicarbonate.

The combination of cal-mag and potassium bicarbonate will give you rock solid PH for a week or longer at a time. I strongly suspect that this is the "secret" to AN PH Perfect fertilizer. This would explain 'Big Mike's' rant against carbonate buffers, which are the industry standard. He does not want you to use them, because if you figure out how to do it yourself for a few cents a week, he cant charge you double for his "Ph Perfect" fertilizer line, thus he makes no money off you. He has Rolls Royce payments to keep up with, doncha know.

When using as a buffer, after setting the PPM of your solution to the desired level, add cal-mag at about 80 PPM for flowering, 20 - 40 ppm for vegetative. When everything is mixed, circulated and settled, add the 13% potassium bicarbonate solution in small amounts until you reach the desired PH. Calcium bicarbonate is a very strong base, thus a very small amount will go a long way. Err on the side of caution until you are know exactly how much you need to add. Keep track of how much you added for future reference.

I only adjust my PH once a week, on the day I change out my reservoir.

I can give a recipe for making the cal-mag supplement yourself if you want. It is very cheap to make, about $1 per gallon, but you have to order the chemicals online from crop king or jr peters.

You can order potassium bicarbonate already mixed with the magnesium sulfate (epsom salts) for stablizing PH from JR peters, but it will buffer longer and be a lot cheaper if you do it yourself.

Hope that helps.
 
man if checkin and fixin your ph is such a hassel then why grow? is everything thing else going to be lackin attention? lol
Seriously!

Cmon people, check your PH levels daily it takes a few mins, keep your res' covered and solution mixing and aerated and your PH should not need too much attention between res changes.

It is also a good reason to be in your garden doing ALL the other maint required. :) My Opinion
 
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