Bars vs Boards

Lockedin

Well-Known Member
thats great! was really surprised when he threw it on the burner...!
Same - I don't think I'll be that brave (or have that much material - that was a huge cake)!

I half expected him to throw a blanket over himself and hotbox it!
 

end_of_the_tunnel

Well-Known Member
haha! man it looked tasty eh!

the plastic seal had me cringing a bit tho lol
The whole process had me cringing. Really liked the look of the starting material. I would just be storing that in my freezer. But I guess the consolation is that after the nice man has added his own genetic material to the mix and oxidised constituents in the starting material, at least it should have a decent shelf life.

Remember watching a Frenchy Cannoli example, much gentler. Whats the compound they discovered that is formed in hashes? Hashishene?
 

lukio

Well-Known Member
The whole process had me cringing. Really liked the look of the starting material. I would just be storing that in my freezer. But I guess the consolation is that after the nice man has added his own genetic material to the mix and oxidised constituents in the starting material, at least it should have a decent shelf life.

Remember watching a Frenchy Cannoli example, much gentler. Whats the compound they discovered that is formed in hashes? Hashishene?
pahaha! fair do!

yeah Frenchy is the man. seen his mega bubble washer? pretty cool.

his hash is somethin i'd probably get on a plane for...he does barca for spannabis and his own courses at the same time somewhere else. it is tempting but its kinda pricey.
 

Lockedin

Well-Known Member
....the nice man has added his own genetic material to the mix and oxidised constituents in the starting material...
Maybe that's what's missing from modern hash....;)

Remember watching a Frenchy Cannoli example, much gentler. Whats the compound they discovered that is formed in hashes? Hashishene?
This I don't doubt - smoking full melt has a few components to it that other concentrates seem to lack.
I think I remember reading an article about Frenchy on the Ed Rosenthal blog.
 

end_of_the_tunnel

Well-Known Member
Maybe that's what's missing from modern hash....;)



This I don't doubt - smoking full melt has a few components to it that other concentrates seem to lack.
I think I remember reading an article about Frenchy on the Ed Rosenthal blog.
I might be mistaken but part of the take away I got from watching Frenchy was that the process of heating and forming balls or masses, improved long term storability. Only the outer rind is exposed and hinders oxidation of the inner content.

If I had any quantity of kief, my preference would be to freeze for storage without doing anything to it. Though it would be cool to try the whole heating, kneading and rolling into balls just to store and experience this hashishene terpene.
 

kkookoo

Well-Known Member
As long as you can spread the boards out they work good.

my personal opinion is whatever gets you the most diodes at the cheapest price including frame, heat sink and cooling fan costs (I run fans on everything).

I run three different board styles and three different strip types and chilled logic pucks, my favourite are the wider boards and strips because coverage is better and at the time they were cheaper.
 

numberfour

Well-Known Member
When it comes to hash the best is imo is charas (hand rubbed off live plant). After that its hash from sifting, either hand pressed or Frenchy hot water rolling pin style.

This is probably the best book about Hash ever produced
DSC01566 (2) - Copy.JPG
Wanted to post a few more pics but my camera battery died. Books from '79 and just gives you a whole new respect / inspiration for hash and the cultures that made and used it.
 

end_of_the_tunnel

Well-Known Member
When it comes to hash the best is imo is charas (hand rubbed off live plant). After that its hash from sifting, either hand pressed or Frenchy hot water rolling pin style.

This is probably the best book about Hash ever produced
View attachment 4618796
Wanted to post a few more pics but my camera battery died. Books from '79 and just gives you a whole new respect / inspiration for hash and the cultures that made and used it.
Sad thing is that is a time and place that many, even in those particular countries, might find distant and foreign. I have seen examples of the charas harvesting method, and can only imagine what the yeilds or returns from plant matter must be. One thing for sure, fresh charas must be the equivalent of live resin/ fresh frozen types.

Do you by any chance have info on original type pipes used in narghile or hubble bubble apparatus? How they were packed, and how heat was delivered?
 

numberfour

Well-Known Member
Do you by any chance have info on original type pipes used in narghile or hubble bubble apparatus? How they were packed, and how heat was delivered?
No but this guy probably does ...
DSC01616 (2) - Copy.JPG
the only mention of narghile in the index and anywhere in the Great Books takes you to a pic of this happy guy

The Book called HASHISH by Robert Connell Clark has a bit more info but sadly not what you seek
DSC01598 - Copy.JPG
DSC01604 - Copy.JPG
 

kkookoo

Well-Known Member
And your light distribution as an ellipse is nonsense too. Each led spreads it's light in a circle. A row of circles does not create an ellipse. You are accounting for reflection losses, but that's not the point
Actually, I ran a bunch of light simulations from dialux and it does create an elipse of intensity with the edges getting way less than the middle of the strips. That’s why progrowtech has extra diodes on the end

BUT ITS AN EASY FIX ANYWAY.

Just put a strip around the outer frame edge. Strips are better in my opinion they are cheap
 

kkookoo

Well-Known Member
@Prawn Connery @wietefras its a really simple argument: take some boards over a space in a tent or out in the open. Put equal number of leds/power over the same space in strips and spread them better. Put a par meter under both. You get way better more even coverage with strips. That’s all we are really talking about here right, which setup will give you better more even canopy?
 

Prawn Connery

Well-Known Member
Actually, I ran a bunch of light simulations from dialux and it does create an elipse of intensity with the edges getting way less than the middle of the strips. That’s why progrowtech has extra diodes on the end

BUT ITS AN EASY FIX ANYWAY.

Just put a strip around the outer frame edge. Strips are better in my opinion they are cheap
Thank you. As I have repeated in this thread ad nauseam, just because you don't understand how a piece of software works doesn't mean it is any less legitimate. Anyone who knows how to use Dialux will reach the same conclusion.

@Prawn Connery @wietefras its a really simple argument: take some boards over a space in a tent or out in the open. Put equal number of leds/power over the same space in strips and spread them better. Put a par meter under both. You get way better more even coverage with strips. That’s all we are really talking about here right, which setup will give you better more even canopy?
Yes it is a simple argument. The better you can space your diodes, the more even the canopy. The closer you can put the LEDs to the canopy, the fewer wall losses there are. But the story doesn't end there . . .

You still need a certain amount of light to hit the canopy to be effective, so it's not just about light spread, but intensity also. And if you are not growing in a small space, then wall losses diminish exponentially as you increase your grow area.

Every time you double your room size, you effectively halve the amount of wall surface area (and wall losses, all else being equal).

Eventually you reach a point where wall losses become negligible compared to the total amount of light in the room.

So wall losses are not a major consideration in open-room and warehouse grows. You still need to be able to walk and work around your plants, so in a warehouse grow it is better to have your lights a little higher to allow access, and the overlapping light pattern means you don't lose much light by doing this. That's how bay lighting works.

By the same token, not everyone wants to keep their lights as close to the plants as possible because they don't want to be adjusting them every day.

In these cases, strips actually lead to more wall losses because they are closer to the walls in the first place. And that's why I said at the very beginning of this thread that it is "horses for courses". There is no "one size fits all".

Likewise, it is wrong to state "Led strips offer by far the best spread of light points and therefore the best light diffusion and thus light penetration" because that is not true in all cases.

Put equal number of leds/power over the same space in strips and spread them better. Put a par meter under both. You get way better more even coverage with strips.
Not necessarily. it depends on the LED layout of the strips and boards. Most strips pack their LEDs very close together in a line along the strip. Some boards space their LEDs quite far apart.

Here is a Fotop board
1594639726676.png

Here is a Samsung F Series strip
1594639693275.png

There is no way I am ever going to agree with you that if we place 3x Fotop boards in a 3'x3' or 1m x 1m (for example), that a similar number of Samsung strip LEDs is going to provide better coverage.

Why?

Because the Fotop boards (900mm x 280mm) will cover the entire roof of that tent and the LEDs will be evenly spaced at about 15mm between each and every diode, whilst the F Series strips will be in lines of tightly-packed LEDs that are only a few mm apart.

You have used Dialux, and so you know what I'm talking about.

Now look at it from a price perspective, and maybe things change . . . Or do they?

3x Fotop boards at US$80 have 2400 LEDs for $240

17x 560mm Samsung F Series strips are anywhere up to US$350+

Space them out over a 1m x 1m and I don't need Dialux to know which of the above configurations produces the more even spread with the fewest wall losses.

And let's not even talk about the amount of wiring required for those 17 strips vs 3x Fotop boards!

This is just one example – I could provide many more – of where "horses for courses" applies. No-one can sit behind their keyboard and categorically state that "strips are better" or "boards are better" because it depends on circumstance.

And that is my point.
 

Gond00s

Well-Known Member
Thank you. As I have repeated in this thread ad nauseam, just because you don't understand how a piece of software works doesn't mean it is any less legitimate. Anyone who knows how to use Dialux will reach the same conclusion.


Yes it is a simple argument. The better you can space your diodes, the more even the canopy. The closer you can put the LEDs to the canopy, the fewer wall losses there are. But the story doesn't end there . . .

You still need a certain amount of light to hit the canopy to be effective, so it's not just about light spread, but intensity also. And if you are not growing in a small space, then wall losses diminish exponentially as you increase your grow area.

Every time you double your room size, you effectively halve the amount of wall surface area (and wall losses, all else being equal).

Eventually you reach a point where wall losses become negligible compared to the total amount of light in the room.

So wall losses are not a major consideration in open-room and warehouse grows. You still need to be able to walk and work around your plants, so in a warehouse grow it is better to have your lights a little higher to allow access, and the overlapping light pattern means you don't lose much light by doing this. That's how bay lighting works.

By the same token, not everyone wants to keep their lights as close to the plants as possible because they don't want to be adjusting them every day.

In these cases, strips actually lead to more wall losses because they are closer to the walls in the first place. And that's why I said at the very beginning of this thread that it is "horses for courses". There is no "one size fits all".

Likewise, it is wrong to state "Led strips offer by far the best spread of light points and therefore the best light diffusion and thus light penetration" because that is not true in all cases.


Not necessarily. it depends on the LED layout of the strips and boards. Most strips pack their LEDs very close together in a line along the strip. Some boards space their LEDs quite far apart.

Here is a Fotop board
View attachment 4622856

Here is a Samsung F Series strip
View attachment 4622854

There is no way I am ever going to agree with you that if we place 3x Fotop boards in a 3'x3' or 1m x 1m (for example), that a similar number of Samsung strip LEDs is going to provide better coverage.

Why?

Because the Fotop boards (900mm x 280mm) will cover the entire roof of that tent and the LEDs will be evenly spaced at about 15mm between each and every diode, whilst the F Series strips will be in lines of tightly-packed LEDs that are only a few mm apart.

You have used Dialux, and so you know what I'm talking about.

Now look at it from a price perspective, and maybe things change . . . Or do they?

3x Fotop boards at US$80 have 2400 LEDs for $240

17x 560mm Samsung F Series strips are anywhere up to US$350+

Space them out over a 1m x 1m and I don't need Dialux to know which of the above configurations produces the more even spread with the fewest wall losses.

And let's not even talk about the amount of wiring required for those 17 strips vs 3x Fotop boards!

This is just one example – I could provide many more – of where "horses for courses" applies. No-one can sit behind their keyboard and categorically state that "strips are better" or "boards are better" because it depends on circumstance.

And that is my point.
by any chance do u know what i would need to heat sink those fotops lol
 
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