bodhi seeds

Bakersfield

Well-Known Member
Yeah, as you @Bakersfield mention, I guess I didnt even notice. AdvancedBuffalo may be right too, because the three “origin” stories I keep hearing are pretty questionable. Nonetheless, it’s a Nierika line with a killer name. I grow a lot of Doc D too, and once he started using a MDS mom, I knew there was AT LEAST potential of finding something unique in this line.

I’m just here doing my custodial duties.

Out of the 10 older ones, here are the more interesting leaf shapes + some pre-flower shots

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I think they look great and I cannot wait to see how they turn out.
I was pretty gung-ho to do the same with my pack, but now that we are headed into Spring, I'm not sure I would be able to complete such a project properly as my life gets too busy.
 

MICHI-CAN

Well-Known Member
I hope was I wish all "you people" a great evening. As I do.

Looking at 20's and snow again here this week.

Settled on GMO x SHORELINE, Pre 98 BK, Blue Berry hash Plant and a Northern Lights accosted by a male Dragon Fruit. LOL. I'm looking forward to that mistake or love child. Cannot wait to participate again. As 700W 301's collect dust. Ho Hum. Damn pesky fine print in the laws.

Peace and the best to all"folks"!
 

Bakersfield

Well-Known Member
View attachment 4864326
I figured a pic of fans from Doc D’s MDS mom might be nice for comparison. I’ve got MDS x Dragon Energy in the vault. I have been thinking it’d be fun to IX that with MDS pollen.
Looking at some of the different phenotypes that represent the particular Mexican strains used in the cross, I do see what I would expect to find in this cross.
https://www.rollitup.org/t/pure-sativa-thread.880568/post-11855951

Kiona down in Washington State runs an MDS from the same seed stock that Doc D recieved from Bodhi who got it from I don't know who, maybe the elusive Jim Ortega.
This MDS is not the same as the MDS that the Cornbread Mafia grew, or so I was told, by the guy that distributes the Cornbread Mafia MDS seeds.
Screenshot_20210327-164620_Chrome.jpg

Screenshot_20210327-170031_Instagram.jpg
 

MICHI-CAN

Well-Known Member
Looking at some of the different phenotypes that represent the particular Mexican strains used in the cross, I do see what I would expect to find in this cross.
https://www.rollitup.org/t/pure-sativa-thread.880568/post-11855951

Kiona down in Washington State runs an MDS from the same seed stock that Doc D recieved from Bodhi who got it from I don't know who, maybe the elusive Jim Ortega.
This MDS is not the same as the MDS that the Cornbread Mafia grew, or so I was told, by the guy that distributes the Cornbread Mafia MDS seeds.
View attachment 4864465

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Wish I knew what this scrawny girl is. Late 80's, honest, Mexi Sensi bag seed. Down to 6 looking viable and 4 maybe beans. Wicked stuff. 001.jpg
 

AdvancedBuffalo

Well-Known Member
FA12CF16-225D-4CBB-934E-C8A384CBD87B.jpeg

Test wash of Lemon Hashplant V2, showing that it maybe dumps at 3% or so.

All of my rosin testing/development talk probably doesn’t apply to most of you because you aren’t processing for craft-commercial production. Usually I will test entire plants at a time, and it’s no big deal if one or two are total failures with zero return. But this isn’t ideal if you are growing for personal stash and need that single plant for your med stash.

So here is a way you can determine with fairly decent accuracy, trichome head separation properties and rosin yields! It only requires 15g of live material, some ice, and a 1 quart mason jar.

1. Cut off a few reasonably frosty LIVE lowers and separate 15g of nug/frosty leaf material from the stems. Dispose of fan leaves, non frosty sugar leaves, stems, etc. Remember, we want LIVE material. This is how we retain all of those beautiful volatile terps that often seem to elude us when drying/curing.

2. Break down plant material into small chunks if your colas are fat. US nickel to quarter size should work well. That’s like 1/2” to 1”, or 13mm to 26mm. The more surface area exposed to the ice water bath, the better yields will be.

3. Grab a plastic bag or Tupperware, label the container according to strain/pheno, and freeze for 24 hours. Take your mason jar and pop it in the freezer as well.

4. After 24 hours (you can leave the material in the freezer for as long as you want, it won’t degrade in such a short period of time) remove the mason jar and frozen bud from your freezer.

5. Fill the mason jar with ice up to the half-way point.

6. Put flower on top.

7. Put more ice on top until the jar is 90% full.

8. Fill jar with water. Some ice will melt and you will be left with a jar that is 80% full of your ice/bud/water. The mix should be easy to shake and agitate.

9. Turn jar upside down and let it sit on the lid for 10-15 minutes. We want to let the bud thaw out and saturate with cold water.

10. After waiting, shake the jar for 5 minutes. Then let it rest for 5 minutes. Repeat 2-3 times or until you are sure that the material is spent.

11. Place the jar right side up in your fridge and let the trichomes fall to the bottom and settle. You should see little granular trichome heads swirling around in the jar. If you want, you can angle the jar and let the trichomes settle on the edge like I did to get a better idea of how much is actually there. If it just looks like a milky opaque fluid, do not attempt to wash this strain!

A good washer should leave a nice pile of trichomes on the bottom of the jar. If the entire bottom of the jar gets coated with trichomes to the point that you have a hard time seeing through it, you have a real dumper and you need to PM me ASAP.

The “average” water hash strain will dump at 3-4%, and the above photo is a good example of that wash %. Not enough to coat the bottom to the point of being not-see through. But enough to warrant a wash because the terp retention will be great!

If you do happen to find a strain that you really like and it happens to drop resin during this wash, consider taking a portion to a water hash extractor to get your material processed into live rosin. It’s a wonderful type of extract that is completely solventless. It is the best method for creating a concentrate that is nearly identical to the flower in its living state!

I know we have a lot of flower fans in here. I don’t see a lot of talk about modern concentrates and other stuff. This extraction/processing method is unique in that it will change the way you determine keepers. Not only will you be looking for quality cured flower, but you may also end up looking for a good washer! This is fantastic for those plants that smell absolutely wonderful in flower form, but seem to lose those amazing terps during a dry/cure. Sometimes terpenes are just too volatile to make it passes the dry/cure. This method is amazing for capturing all of the volatiles that otherwise would have been missed. Some plants that you may have culled/disregarded for post cure sadness may end up making it into the final rotation because of this method.
 
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mawasmada

Well-Known Member
View attachment 4864774

Test wash of Lemon Hashplant V2, showing that it maybe dumps at 3% or so.

All of my rosin testing/development talk probably doesn’t apply to most of you because you aren’t processing for craft-commercial production. Usually I will test entire plants at a time, and it’s no big deal if one or two are total failures with zero return. But this isn’t ideal if you are growing for personal stash and need that single plant for your med stash.

So here is a way you can determine with fairly decent accuracy, trichome head separation properties and rosin yields! It only requires 15g of live material, some ice, and a 1 quart mason jar.

1. Cut off a few reasonably frosty LIVE lowers and separate 15g of nug/frosty leaf material from the stems. Dispose of fan leaves, non frosty sugar leaves, stems, etc. Remember, we want LIVE material. This is how we retain all of those beautiful volatile terps that often seem to elude us when drying/curing.

2. Break down plant material into small chunks if your colas are fat. US nickel to quarter size should work well. That’s like 1/2” to 1”, or 13mm to 26mm. The more surface area exposed to the ice water bath, the better yields will be.

3. Grab a plastic bag or Tupperware, label the container according to strain/pheno, and freeze for 24 hours. Take your mason jar and pop it in the freezer as well.

4. After 24 hours (you can leave the material in the freezer for as long as you want, it won’t degrade in such a short period of time) remove the mason jar and frozen bud from your freezer.

5. Fill the mason jar with ice up to the half-way point.

6. Put flower on top.

7. Put more ice on top until the jar is 90% full.

8. Fill jar with water. Some ice will melt and you will be left with a jar that is 80% full of your ice/bud/water. The mix should be easy to shake and agitate.

9. Turn jar upside down and let it sit on the lid for 10-15 minutes. We want to let the bud thaw out and saturate with cold water.

10. After waiting, shake the jar for 5 minutes. Then let it rest for 5 minutes. Repeat 2-3 times or until you are sure that the material is spent.

11. Place the jar right side up in your fridge and let the trichomes fall to the bottom and settle. You should see little granular trichome heads swirling around in the jar. If you want, you can angle the jar and let the trichomes settle on the edge like I did to get a better idea of how much is actually there. If it just looks like a milky opaque fluid, do not attempt to wash this strain!

A good washer should leave a nice pile of trichomes on the bottom of the jar. If the entire bottom of the jar gets coated with trichomes to the point that you have a hard time seeing through it, you have a real dumper and you need to PM me ASAP.

The “average” water hash strain will dump at 3-4%, and the above photo is a good example of that wash %. Not enough to coat the bottom to the point of being not-see through. But enough to warrant a wash because the terp retention will be great!

If you do happen to find a strain that you really like and it happens to drop resin during this wash, consider taking a portion to a water hash extractor to get your material processed into live rosin. It’s a wonderful type of extract that is completely solventless. It is the best method for creating a concentrate that is nearly identical to the flower in its living state!

I know we have a lot of flower fans in here. I don’t see a lot of talk about modern concentrates and other stuff. This extraction/processing method is unique in that it will change the way you determine keepers. Not only will you be looking for quality cured flower, but you may also end up looking for a good washer! This is fantastic for those plants that smell absolutely wonderful in flower form, but seem to lose those amazing terps during a dry/cure. Sometimes terpenes are just too volatile to make it passes the dry/cure. This method is amazing for capturing all of the volatiles that otherwise would have been missed. Some plants that you may have culled/disregarded for post cure sadness may end up making it into the final rotation because of this method.
Rookie question maybe, but how do you reclaim the material from the water?

Edit: I meant the resin when I said material. This is good info!
 

AdvancedBuffalo

Well-Known Member
Rookie question maybe, but how do you reclaim the material from the water?

Edit: I meant the resin when I said material. This is good info!
So this specific method is only used as a visual test to see if a cut drops resin, and if so how much. I just dispose of everything in the jar after. Better to waste 15g of lower material to see if washes well, rather than risk losing an entire plant with zero return without testing.

After testing you would freeze the rest of the plant and wash in bubble bags yourself, or have an extractor do it. The best way to make this is to wash in an ice water bath with bubble bags, collect the heads, dry in a freeze dryer, and press with a hydraulic press with heated plates.

Alternatively you can microplane and smoke the resulting hash. But the freeze dry/pressing method is becoming more common.
 

CrunchBerries

Well-Known Member
2 Space Monkey chopped at 68 days. Setting up for the next go-round and haven’t decided exactly what to run. I have 3 Space Monkey; 2 from clone and 1 new female from seed. 3 Icy Grapes; 2 confirmed female and 1 undecided. Also, a Peach HP that I’m going to take clones off of and will definitely get flowered next. Thinking I will flower the Peach and an IG as I want to free up some space. Happy Sunday y’all!
 

hillbill

Well-Known Member
2 Sun Ra at 49 days in flower tent today smell like a volatile hydrocarbon of some kind with Grapefruit on one. Buds seem very firm and both are yellow fading and leaves drying up from the bottom, hint of purple on upper leaf edges. Increasingly loud and eye watering up close. The one giving Grapefruit smells is slightly more rangy with slightly narrower leaves also.
 

2seepictures

Well-Known Member
The more narrow leaf & "sativa" structured SunRa I tried had a very attractive calyx->leaf ratio and was extremely frosty. Had some purple tint + yellowing going on during senescence as well. Failed a reveg on it but I think I prefer the effects of the other pheno more. As with all the wookie crosses carbon filters are an absolute must. Can't wait to hear your impression of the effects and strength of the SunRa. It's my current favorite medicine for when I need to be active/semi-functional and SSDD wouldn't be a good choice (work, dog walking, physical activities, etc).
 

LunarMOG

Well-Known Member
thanks AB i was wondering about this method.... ive seen people use it as a testing method but never gone into the details. Before your breakdown i kinda likened it to the old quarter in a jar with buds and a screen on top method of making hash/kief or whatever, but that seems like a reasonably accurate and low input method, will be sure to immediately PM if the situation arises
 

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
Purple Wookie V2
day 74 harvest
this one was a heavy-er feeder that never got fed enough, and the extremely floppy bottom branches never got support either, i kinda just fucked up with this plant, it's larfy, it's bright purple, it smells of GAS and BERRIES very amazing smell
3gal pot

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I'm working with a Purple Wookie V2 and it's all fruit and lavender. Deep purple and it smells/taste like fruit loops or fruity pebbles, not really a gassy smell at all. However, I did get one like what you described, gassy and fruity. I'm also running Magenta HP next to it. I picked the non gassy one as my keeper, it just seemed like a rare plant. I'll post some pics later tonight, but they are only starting week 3. I ran the seeds in kinda crappy soil, so I took clones and tried again, this time my soil is rocking. The one that I picked was a low yielder, but what little I had from testing was fabulous. I'm getting everything lined up to open a greenhouse this summer and I'm planning on running Purple Wookie for my first run. The bag appeal was high, but the yield low. I'm going to have to deal with a saturated market, so I'll need something above the others and Purple Wookie is impressive. I'm thinking about fermenting some blueberries to raise anthocyanin levels to try to bring out the purple a little more, just a KNF experiment that I'm working on...
 
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