Bud moisture for perfect bud... :-)

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Stepping onto more discussion and a futher stab at the modern growers dry and cure methods.

Ill start by stating - dried perfect cured primo bud has a water content of between 10 and 15%. This is quite locked away and would either need direct heat or an extended drying time of well over a month or two to futher purge.

There is no risk of overdrying bud by letting it hang a couple of weeks and the remaining moisture of 10-15% is enough that when jarred futher enzymatic processes happen and thus it is cured.

Humidity will do two things - speed or slow the dry by a small amount (not a lot) and leave you on the lower or upoer side of that 10-15% remaining moisture - thats all dont complicate it.

So the process so far is hang till dry - we know what dry is because after two weeks obviously the bud has no more moisture to loose and smokes well in a joint. It is certainky not at 0% moisture or it would all fully crumble to dust, our bud compacts not crumbles when squashed and dosent leave a tidy pile of dust but just a smaller bud - should also grind to a fine particulate when put through a grinder, all signs theres still moisture left at the correct level.

Next the jar for storage - buds at perfect moisture content, much higher and mold will develop (that highly evolved shit that needs just over what dried weeds 10-15% moisture levels to move in) so just pop it in a jar and close - next day dont burp (dumb nane) just open the lid take some out and check its still dry. The situation we have here is that if we put anything in a jar that has residual water content (in our bud moisture above that 10-15%) it will (as with the hang dry part and all drying things) release that moisture slowly into the air and the jars moisture content will rise enough for mold. This moisture cant float off cause the lids closed and it will settle back onto the surfaces of the bud making it wetter again.

One note here - oncr bud drys those celks explode implode and fracture apart - they cannot be rehydrated - the bud has surface area that does allow moisture absorbtion - different things. I find things in the world start getting wet in stagnant air at 70% and above rh.

So if bud gets wet you need to take it out and dry but question why it didnt dry well enough in the first place. With me sometimes ill feel a slight moisture rise so redry for couple days then buds stay dry long term and can be stored.

If you try and monitor jar humidity it may rise fall or ehatecer but you dont need to compleicate the shit out of the fact you know what dried bud is by now and by jarring your also checking it is dried enough. Point in fact put a load of fresh harvested bud in a jar and what happens to the humidity? At what humidity does moisture later form on the jar walls?

Theres a lot more to it as well but we dont need to monitor humidity and to dry simoly hang bud in a place it feels dry after a week - somewhere with air excgange not to cool not too hot no direct heat or light.

I will not respond to troll questions and happy just to write so future growers have somthing a little more factual to read whilst ordering boveda because its now day four and they read to jar at day five and burp for a week :-)
 
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The two most common reasons why weed gets dry beyond its optimal point are overdrying after harvest and inadequate storage.

Cannabis dries from the outside in. The outer leaves may seem dry, while the inner bud and stems might still hold considerable amounts of water. Therefore, it is common for growers to judge dryness by using the stem-snapping trick.
 

LordHill

Well-Known Member
I have read that once the stem is actually "snapable" that it is too dry. I am still 9ish weeks out from my first harvest, I have a lot of reading left to do, but since it is on topic, is stem snap too dry?
 

3rd Monkey

Well-Known Member
Consider how they commercially dry cannabis, tobacco, or hay. It gets hung in an outdoor shed for a couple weeks or swept into windrows for a couple weeks.

Yet all of those are expected to retain a certain amount of moisture.
 

Smokey57

Well-Known Member
Stepping onto more discussion and a futher stab at the modern growers dry and cure methods.

Ill start by stating - dried perfect cured primo bud has a water content of between 10 and 15%. This is quite locked away and would either need direct heat or an extended drying time of well over a month or two to futher purge.

There is no risk of overdrying bud by letting it hang a couple of weeks and the remaining moisture of 10-15% is enough that when jarred futher enzymatic processes happen and thus it is cured.

Humidity will do two things - speed or slow the dry by a small amount (not a lot) and leave you on the lower or upoer side of that 10-15% remaining moisture - thats all dont complicate it.

So the process so far is hang till dry - we know what dry is because after two weeks obviously the bud has no more moisture to loose and smokes well in a joint. It is certainky not at 0% moisture or it would all fully crumble to dust, our bud compacts not crumbles when squashed and dosent leave a tidy pile of dust but just a smaller bud - should also grind to a fine particulate when put through a grinder, all signs theres still moisture left at the correct level.

Next the jar for storage - buds at perfect moisture content, much higher and mold will develop (that highly evolved shit that needs just over what dried weeds 10-15% moisture levels to move in) so just pop it in a jar and close - next day dont burp (dumb nane) just open the lid take some out and check its still dry. The situation we have here is that if we put anything in a jar that has residual water content (in our bud moisture above that 10-15%) it will (as with the hang dry part and all drying things) release that moisture slowly into the air and the jars moisture content will rise enough for mold. This moisture cant float off cause the lids closed and it will settle back onto the surfaces of the bud making it wetter again.

One note here - oncr bud drys those celks explode implode and fracture apart - they cannot be rehydrated - the bud has surface area that does allow moisture absorbtion - different things. I find things in the world start getting wet in stagnant air at 70% and above rh.

So if bud gets wet you need to take it out and dry but question why it didnt dry well enough in the first place. With me sometimes ill feel a slight moisture rise so redry for couple days then buds stay dry long term and can be stored.

If you try and monitor jar humidity it may rise fall or ehatecer but you dont need to compleicate the shit out of the fact you know what dried bud is by now and by jarring your also checking it is dried enough. Point in fact put a load of fresh harvested bud in a jar and what happens to the humidity? At what humidity does moisture later form on the jar walls?

Theres a lot more to it as well but we dont need to monitor humidity and to dry simoly hang bud in a place it feels dry after a week - somewhere with air excgange not to cool not too hot no direct heat or light.

I will not respond to troll questions and happy just to write so future growers have somthing a little more factual to read whilst ordering boveda because its now day four and they read to jar at day five and burp for a week :-)
Kingrow!
Thank you very much for the detailed explanation. I am in the middle of drying my harvest as we speak. I will continue to dry and cure as I always have, but I will try your method with one of the plants and see how it works out. Nice to find other methods, always willing to try something new. Never know if it will work out unless I try.

thanks again

smokey
 

conor c

Well-Known Member
I just hang in a darkened tent i dont grow in for 2 weeks with a wee fan and extraction and filter on it with my window open on that room for fresh air I just hang em to before it snaps you want a lil extra moisture rather than not enough for curing I found I just monitor and burp the jars accordingly for the next 4/6 weeks nothing too complex like keeping it simple
 

3rd Monkey

Well-Known Member
I just hang in a darkened tent i dont grow in for 2 weeks with a wee fan and extraction and filter on it with my window open on that room for fresh air I just hang em to before it snaps you want a lil extra moisture rather than not enough for curing I found I just monitor and burp the jars accordingly for the next 4/6 weeks nothing too complex like keeping it simple
If you go until the stem snaps, there's still plenty of moisture.

It's just preference and I agree to keep it simple.
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Kingrow!
Thank you very much for the detailed explanation. I am in the middle of drying my harvest as we speak. I will continue to dry and cure as I always have, but I will try your method with one of the plants and see how it works out. Nice to find other methods, always willing to try something new. Never know if it will work out unless I try.

thanks again

smokey
This isnt another method - its the method, the other methods are versions of this but they are fucking crap to be honest and i explain all the science in simple english not boveda.

Long time growers and members know this, noobies are still chasing their tails so its easy to judge the experience level here by what they troll basically :-)
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Yeah exactly comes down to what you like
I like frosted cereal on my trichs but i dont troll a site claiming only this works for my own personal opinion - the info i have written is how to dry and cure, the info trolls write on humidity and boveda is their own personal stupidity. you can be sure of my way 100% - it comes from the masters and pros before not recent grow ops, shops, legal, rec and their lab science which is all for profit not weed and are noobs themselves :-)
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
I just let it hang til the stems snap or if I squish a bud and the outside starts to flake. Fuck all that science lol.
this site is for the science and i wrote something you need to be aware off or you will simply be trolling bad info - dont come here to learn and then throw shit in my face. The problem here is we know and you dont so stop guessing and learn more.....!
 

3rd Monkey

Well-Known Member
this site is for the science and i wrote something you need to be aware off or you will simply be trolling bad info - dont come here to learn and then throw shit in my face. The problem here is we know and you dont so stop guessing and learn more.....!
Well fuck you too. That's how I do it, how I've always done it, and will continue to do it.

It's not a "this is the only way" thing. Other people cure with packs and jars and I thought it was good smoke too.
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Kingrow!
Thank you very much for the detailed explanation. I am in the middle of drying my harvest as we speak. I will continue to dry and cure as I always have, but I will try your method with one of the plants and see how it works out. Nice to find other methods, always willing to try something new. Never know if it will work out unless I try.

thanks again

smokey

Thing is I'll kindly disagree on 10% as being anywhere near what cannabis should be to a quality smoke.
Not only that. Plant materials will not cure at that ultra low moisture content.. Please feel free to read up on tobacco curing as a basic guide.....

Active curing shuts down, starting around 48% and much lower, stops completely.
I use Bovita 62's in my buckets.
From there, if it goes to jars.. 58% and stored, cured material is also stored in buckets with 58% ers.

Bone dry weed of that 10-12%, smokes less effectively, is not absorbed by the lung tissue as well and is rather irritating to throat and lung tissue when smoked. Why do you think tobacco is packaged at rates over 65%?

Anything over 50% is better.... Far better in "my" book.
 
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Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
The two most common reasons why weed gets dry beyond its optimal point are overdrying after harvest and inadequate storage.

Cannabis dries from the outside in. The outer leaves may seem dry, while the inner bud and stems might still hold considerable amounts of water. Therefore, it is common for growers to judge dryness by using the stem-snapping trick.
Nope, you are waiting for the moment the stem first snaps - wait a week it also snaps then.

Just because no one told you to wait a little longer the advice wasnt jar as SOOn as the stem snap and requires at least some common sense :-)
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Well fuck you too. That's how I do it, how I've always done it, and will continue to do it.

It's not a "this is the only way" thing. Other people cure with packs and jars and I thought it was good smoke too.
Its obvious you want to disagree with the pros and masters who frequented this site before you and those still here - i have and always do provide a very indepth look at this subject - you with your fuck science stem snapping whatever, like its hardly a writeup that is clueing newbies up.

Shame you didnt learn all ways and jsut the troll bait broscience boveda way before you came here telling us how to dry and cure - big problem with the site, like who da funk are you guys cause im a full on bonafida long term good grower who knows his dank fro his dank and has contributed a long time.

Ya back to icamag dude - this is for serious growers not those who dont give two hoots for science (that thing that everything must obey and work off....!)

:-)
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Thing is I'll kindly disagree on 10% as being anywhere near what cannabis should be to a quality smoke.
Not only that. Plant materials will not cure at that ultra low moisture content.. Please feel free to read up on tobacco curing as a basic guide.....

Active curing shuts down, starting around 48% and much lower, stops completely.
I use Bovita 62's in my buckets.
From there, if it goes to jars.. 58% and stored, cured material is also with 58% ers.

Bone dry weed of that %, smokes less effectively, is not absorbed by the lung tissue as well and is rather irritating to throat and lung tissue when smoked. Why do you think tobacco is packaged at rates over 65%?

Anything over 50% is better.... Far better in "my" book.
back to noobness and now air moisture affects the final bud moisture - i know tobaccodry and cure dont insult m, you dont know where you wrong on that and what extra steps they do that we simplydont.

i want to go there with you - been a while since i really challenged the supposed authority on this stuff - is it you whos spreading all the broscience hype here? You have on strains lol we all lauged at you backtracking :-)
 
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