WeedLover487
Well-Known Member
Will try that, thanks
Calcium or magnesium deficiancy? But why?
- Thread starter WeedLover487
- Start date
HydroKid239
Well-Known Member
You gotta shake the shit out of those bottles. When it sits for a while lots of stuff settles on the bottom.
Wastei
Well-Known Member
There's different batches of soil and different kinds of amendments. Some soil may be possible to store for a long period of time while others may have amendments that breaks down and change over time. I'm just speculating here. I would add a buffer to your feed.
A good way to know if your solution is stable or not is to run it under aeration for say 48h to see if pH is stable. When you mix a new batch it's common for it to drift the 2 first days. After that it should be stable and not drift more than 0.3-0.6 points in a week . A small pump is better for this purpose since to much aeration will raise pH more than necessary.
WeedLover487
Well-Known Member
Well, bottom line I don't know what to do next to fix this...
Same setup, same soil, identical feed, my last grow
This is a formula that used to work for me, several grows.
I think I will flush one pot to check ph and ppm of the runoff, I must understand what is going on here..
I need to find out the issue and learn from it.
I need to know If its lockout or missing buffers or just not enough feed.
A nice guide on lockout
www.zamnesia.com
and on testing runoff
growersnetwork.org
Same setup, same soil, identical feed, my last grow
This is a formula that used to work for me, several grows.
I think I will flush one pot to check ph and ppm of the runoff, I must understand what is going on here..
I need to find out the issue and learn from it.
I need to know If its lockout or missing buffers or just not enough feed.
A nice guide on lockout
How To Diagnose & Treat Cannabis Nutrient Lockout
Nutrient lockout starves cannabis plants of the energy they need to stay healthy. Click here to learn how to diagnose and treat nutrient lockout in weed.
and on testing runoff
Testing Your Runoff
growersnetwork.org
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warble
Well-Known Member
Yeah, that is pretty high ppms. I would do less than half the nutes you're feeding. Your plants look okay though. When I have overfed, I got some tip burn. I don't see that as much on your plants. I totally underfeed. So you might not need to do what I do.
I use mycos too, but I prep the soil with them, plus some molasses, (quarter teaspoon per gallon) a few weeks before the x-plant. I also use rooting powder on the roots when I put it in the new pot. I'm saying that you are probably experiencing x-plant shock. They should recover in a week or two, so you might want to veg a little longer before you flip to twelve twelve.
The thing about humidity being the problem. I have had that, and my girls got some powdery mildew. Doesn't look like that is happening to your plants. I understand that humidity can stunt growth, but your new growth looks reasonably healthy.
Keep on staying strong.
Wastei
Well-Known Member
I would try raise pH of the medium. You've gotten a lot of different suggestions on how to do so...Well, bottom line I don't know what to do next to fix this...
Same setup, same soil, identical feed, my last grow
This is a formula that used to work for me, several grows.
View attachment 5278271
I think I will flush one pot to check ph and ppm of the runoff, I must understand what is going on here..
I need to find out the issue and learn from it.
I need to know If its lockout or missing buffers or just not enough feed.
A nice guide on lockout
How To Diagnose & Treat Cannabis Nutrient Lockout
Nutrient lockout starves cannabis plants of the energy they need to stay healthy. Click here to learn how to diagnose and treat nutrient lockout in weed.
and on testing runoff
Testing Your Runoff
Dirt_McGirrt
Well-Known Member
Yea I'm gonna pin what you're doing as pretty much DTW (drain to waste). You deffinetly need to lower that ph you should be 5.8-6.4. 5.8 being the sweet spot for most of the grow. 6.1 i'm happy with when i'm in flower.
Dirt_McGirrt
Well-Known Member
This would be a good route it sounds like for you, OP. Load up on some beneficials in your feeds and food for the beneficials. They can help a lot with swings in the substrate ph, ppm, temp, drought, etc. I do one of the combo bottles/powders I have every feed. I try not to mix stuff like photosynthesis plus and my powdered mycrobe catch all or with the xtreme azzos. Shit like that. Sames on the mollases. Using that High Brix stuff like a tablespoon for 5 gals. Recharge is expensive as shit I can't bring myself to buy it.
simpleleaf
Well-Known Member
It looks a lot like my current young clones. Tracked down to calcium deficiency, but also low EC which is related to not enough calcium nitrate.
Oh, nevermind, you have plenty of good help. Rather than delete my post, I'm adding this note.
Oh, nevermind, you have plenty of good help. Rather than delete my post, I'm adding this note.
secretmicrogrow420
Well-Known Member
honestly I wish I could help and I am a complete noob but you say the soil is with no nutrients? and you say you have been watering every water with advanced nutrients grow a + b and calmag? have you tried flushing the grow media or medium or whatever its called? maybe you have salt build up or something funky in there also you could try adding enzymes maybe that can help break down whatever's in the grow medium that's messing things up 
I don't know man good luck
I don't know man good luck
Wastei
Well-Known Member
You suggest lowering pH to a medium that's already naturally really acidic? Can you elaborate a little bit? 5.8 is optimal for foliar and hydro but this guy is growing in peat based soil.
You say add microbes and organic acids as in molasses in one sentence, then next post you want to adjust pH to a pinpoint? Which one is it? The molasses will affect pH out of your own control, then pHing will do next to nothing.
Coir is hydro and you should treat it as such, at all cost keeping the medium clean and stable. Mycos are fine in coir but you should stay away from the sugars and organic acids. They will only cause OP problems in the long run.
Dirt_McGirrt
Well-Known Member
I believe he said it was mix of coco/peat. I personally never do that for DTW. Cause you'll get fluctuations from peat being as you said, more acid naturally. If he's saying damn near all the food for the plant is coming from AN 2 part and calmag. . . . then that's just DTW yo.
I don't know about you but I mix all my shit up and ph the end before watering. Microbes and all. What I don't care about is EC when I add the microbes and other clearly biological nutrients like molasses.
I disagree. You can make a soil using coco just like peat and it's better.
Dirt_McGirrt
Well-Known Member
We keep calling this guy's substrate as "soil" and I think we need to not. He has no nutrients in it.
thumper60
Well-Known Member
What he is growing in is soiless its not SOIL he made the mistake of calling it soil you jumped all over it. Peat an coir are more hydro read a label of peat or coir nether say SOIL. Both peat an coir like high 5s ph with lots of run off.
Wastei
Well-Known Member
Call it whatever you want! Peat has a pH of 3-4 so you don't know what you're talking about. It's not inert in any way but people still call it "soilless".
Have you ever bought non amended peat and used it for growing? You should not compare coir to peat under any circumstances.
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thumper60
Well-Known Member
Sorry been growing in peat 40 plus yrs who said opp bought non amended peat any peat-coir mix store bought has been amended show me iam wrong. I bet you think promix is soil there is zero soil in promix?
Wastei
Well-Known Member
Never said anything about it being amended or not. We discussed different properties of coir and peat? You somehow think they're the same and interchangeable even though one grows like a moss in the forest and the other grows like a nut on coconut trees? You posted earlier:
This statement is plain false. I dont need to prove anything since you already do a good job at that yourself.
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thumper60
Well-Known Member
Please show me where iam wrong coir calls for running ph 5.8-6 same with promix. Matter of fact coir an peat work well together many companys are now selling that mix. You must live under a rock its all soilless witch means one has complete control just like hydro bro have a good day!
Wastei
Well-Known Member
I've already stated, you just have to read my posts. You still don't understand the two different natural states of the mediums? One has a natural pH of 6-6.5 and the other 3-4? That's not hard to grasp.
Coir has higher cation exchange capacity compared to peat, hence it's higher feeding rates and growth. If I were to treat my peat grown mom's the same as my flowering plants in coir I would experience problems.
thumper60
Well-Known Member
Promix =peat-perlite-limestone ph out of the bale 5.8-6.4 you keep spouting about 3-4 ph raw peat runs high 4s-low 5s right out of the bail. Been running promix long ass time i feed every watering 5.8-6.2 with good runoff if i miss a feed my plants show me real fast just like hydro or coco DTW. This is not soil growing.