Caramello & Jamaican dream 1st 5 days of flowering?

normajean123

Active Member
Ok so here is my current grow. It's the first time I have ever done hydro, my last/first grow i grew 2 ounces under shitty equipment and heres my attempt at going big. I do have some questions though, why are the leafs looking that yellow and making those almost rust looking spots? and why does it look like its sweating at the top of the canopy? You might not be seeing it that well but basically a couple of the leaves are wet and I have no idea why? also i haven't seen any signs of flowering and my last plant i did within a couple of days. Comments would be appreciated.

pics will be up soon -_- but if anything knows about the leaf sweating thing that would be awesome

photo.jpg

photo 2-1.jpg if you look closely you could see the wet spots
photo 4.jpg
photo 5.jpg
photo 3.jpg
 

normajean123

Active Member
also sorry i know i can look up this stuff and found a site but I'm confused at what it might be since it could be one or two things. don't wanna treat it for one and it be another without a somewhat expert helping me out especially since its hydro theres also a salt like thing on my roots I've been using house and garden nutes and drip clean when it says to
 

cannabineer

Ursus marijanus
My first guess is Mg andor N deficiency. But I need to know:
which nutes; what PPMs?
quality of water?
Temp and pH, especially pH?

It could also be iron. I'd definitely like details on your nutrient.

As for the wet spots ... when I have had one leaf covering another, the lower one could get quite wet. Leaves transpire moisture from the lower surfaces. cn
 

matt7835706

Well-Known Member
Change you res, the great part about hydro is problems show fast but can be fixed fast.

Cannabineer know what hes doing, give the info and you'll get your diagnosis
 

normajean123

Active Member
well right now I'm running all house and garden nutes and 1 dutch master
i have:
aqua flakes A and B 7mL per gallon
roots excelurator 2mL per gallon
multi zen 3.8mL per gallon
drip clean (but stopped using it cause thats when the salt like stuff was on the roots and it says it takes salt out) .4mL per gallon when used
algen extract (used during veg) 2 mL per gallon
and dutch master silica? to make the leafs stronger about 20ml total

right now my system is a nutriculture NFT system can hold 11 gallons
the water is distilled bottled water i get from target
not sure about PPM and don't have a
PH should be 5.8 if my pen is working right, i calibrated it so it should be good
i forgot the temp of the water but the tent should be at low 70s when lights are on and high 60s on off.

also right now I'm using a 2 ft wide x 4 ft long secret jardin tent
6 inch max can fan on low setting
and a 600W digilux HPS
Lumatek super lumen ballast
hood is aircooled

sorry i went into detail but might as well of haha
if more pics are needed let me know
and thanks for the info on your plants wet spots. the caramello is getting out of control and massive so that is prob why.
how my grow looking guys?
 

cannabineer

Ursus marijanus
Thank you for the detail; I thrive on it.

Unfortunately i know nowt about Dutch Master and House and Garden. So I cannot tell if you're getting your micros and Ca/Mg delivered right.

But having accurate ppm/EC is vital for tracking a hydro grow: those numbers can let an experienced outsider decide between simple deficiency or compound/lockup. As for pH, my experience is twofold:
1) ph pens vary much in quality, and
2) even good pH meters will drift off-cal within days/weeks. I use an Oakton pH meter, and it seriously outperforms the cheapies I've endured.

Hydro is fussy in terms of needing constant pH and EC monitoring. good indtruments to measure those two are money VERY well spent imo.

That said, my wager is on N andor Mg and possible Fe being low. I wonder how much Ca the babies are getting. Do you have a cal/mag supplement?
(I am not recommending you use it. Depending on your pH, EC and the House and Garden formula, that could possibly do more harm than good right now.)

Oh. 600 is an awful lot for a 2x4 tent. Are you really running it on Super Lumens? I'd dial it back to 360W or 400 if you have the same Lumatek ballast I do. I filled my 4x4 using full (not super) setting. cn
 

Moebius

Well-Known Member
Those tents really sweat a lot. If you don't have really good ventilation when you flower the buds WILL develope rot.

Also, watch out for light bleaching. With an aircooled hood and 600W its possible to give the plants too much light without burning the plants. Move the lights further away if you can or drop to a lower setting.
 

normajean123

Active Member
bear:
I have a bluepen for ph i know the other day (dumb as it was but i was high) i sunk it in the water cause the ph was varying so my thought was "well the bottom would be best for ph accuracy" thats when the ph really started fluctuating but i calibrated it so it should be fine but idk if the dunk might of messed it up even though its meant for pools

i might go to the shop today and get the big ppm and ph meter

idk if this helps at all in deducing it but heres the notes info

aqua flakes part A NPK .3-0-.3
aqua flakes part B NPK .1-.3-.6 .8% Mg
Multi Zen NPK .2-0-.7
Algen Extract (when used) no info
Roots Excelurator NPK .2-0-.1
Dutch Master Silica NPK 0-0-2 .001% MG

just from writing this out i can see how it could be Cal, when i went to the grow shop they said i didn't need it but when i did my last grow i used it in every watering but let me know how my nutes are looking for this stage of their growth and if maybe i should bump it up
also if you know, just so I'm informed since i wondered this as i wrote is the npk on bottle referring to it in each Ml or in each dosage? if that makes sense
also I'm going a little bit on the aggressive side of the feeding chart but not all the way, should i try a week of regular feeding to maybe help them out? tomorrow is new water day but i just wanna know what i need to get before tomorrow.

i also bumped my light down to 400 last night with my new HPS bulb i was waiting for :) seems nicer

also heres a link to house and garden feeding schedule
http://issuu.com/humboldtwholesale/docs/aquacoco/2
+rep bear, so helpful already kimosabe
 

cannabineer

Ursus marijanus
Normajean:
I like having separate pH and ppm/EC meters. A ppm meter is very durable, while pH meters wear out their electrodes. A decent pH meter will run over $100 ... I've had grief with the cheapies. And yes the dunk could have had an unfortunate effect on your Bluepen. :joint:bigjoint: However, opening it up and letting everything (but the electrode!) thoroughly dry might help. i'm amazed at some electronics' ability to recover after a dunking.

I cannot give any more good advice until you have a reliable way to measure your EC and pH. At that point, the problem has a good chance of jumping out at you.

But if not, I would cut out the discretionaries (roots, zen, algen) for now. I don't know if they are a real benefit to the plants. i was impressed with H&G's ad copy on those ... they have no info in them except flowery (!) promises. I'm pretty wary of additives. Silica, now, that i understand. but a silica additive *may* be playing hob with your pH ... they're pretty alkaline. cn
 

chickengutz

Well-Known Member
Looks like Zinc toxicity. Could be any other number of issues causing the chlorosis, but that's what it looks like to me. A.Fix your ph, cut your micro nutrients, or your plant is going to puke out on yer yield. You have time to fix this, I suggest you get busy.

If no one answers your sweaty leaf issue, pm me and I'll go over it with you- you need to fix that too.
 

normajean123

Active Member
hey ok so i got some cal mag and added that into the mix for the week, they look better and are legit like 5 inches away from the light, they are growing quick i got a ppm meter and my ph meter should be fine but i might get a 2nd one to just make sure its all good. now the plants leafs at the bottom are off since they are pretty much dead, I'm not sure if this was already there but some of the higher leafs are yellowing at the tips. i haven't cut out any additives but might since they are getting out of control in there, now the weird thing is that there is no bud growing yet and its week 2 of flowering. do i have to add some bud nutes? any more info that can help to help me let me know. as far as the sweaty leafs it still there but not bad, very small. also should i be worried that the shoots from the lower part of the plant is losing its leafs? will that prevent a big yield?
 

cannabineer

Ursus marijanus
Your pH and ppm are spot-on imo. The fact the the cal-mag helped is diagnostic to me. You can try pushing the ppm to 1000 and 1200 ... back off when tips begin to scorch or you get other signs of overfeed. You're looking for the highest ppm still compatible with great health. But 800-900 will see a grow to a satisfactory completion. cn
 

normajean123

Active Member
right on, ill post more pics later on. but should i back off the nutes a bit for the yellow tips? or lower my water pump? usually when i feed i get in between aggressive and normal for the base nutes of aqua flakes. btw i messaged you, ignore it but should i be worried that no bud is on the plant yet?
 

normajean123

Active Member
here are some pics of the babies so far.
photo 1-2.jpgphoto 2-2.jpgphoto 3-1.jpg

sorry for the shitty quality, the light tosses my camera off. also should i try getting some lights for the bottom or something? they literally are so bushy i doubt the lower leafs could get light even with some trimming.
 

cannabineer

Ursus marijanus
Normajean, 600W in a 2x4 should be plenty of light. I would not add more lights, unless you want to toss in an actinic T5 or two during flower.

What i see there is twofold:
1) your light is not illuminating the left side of the grow. Since your bulb looks offset in the hood, I'd either move the hood to the left, or buy a socket extension to center the bulb in the hood. Thinking about it, i like the extension better.

http://www.1000bulbs.com/product/3874/SOCK-L8647.html

2) Are you actively cooling that hood? I cannot tell if you're drawing air through it.
<edit> You mentioned a 6" Can Fan, so i'm guessing Yes on the second question.
cn
 

normajean123

Active Member
the light is more moved to the center since i don't even have my filter in yet and bumped back unto 600w now since the plant is so close will it stop growing or get burnt?
 

cannabineer

Ursus marijanus
It will continue to stretch. can you train it away from the vertical? That'll give the flowering ends growing room. It's the only suggestion i have that does not involve topping, and if you've begun flower, topping now ... maybe someone else? bad idea, or not? cn
 

normajean123

Active Member
ok so the plants reached about 3 ft and i just gave it some bud nutes. when i went to change the res i had to take the top part out and the 2 big ones kinda started leaning over to the side. now this is like the 3rd time it happens but i was wondering if there are any suggestions to kinda change the res without the top coming off because i don't want to mess up the growth or have them fall over. like can i ph 4 gallons at a time. put inside the res and then add nutes? or would getting a separate res and a pump be the better option?
 
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