rkymtnman
Well-Known Member
agreed. he had me confused by what exactly he was trying to accomplish.
Central Res DWC with 5 Tubs questions
- Thread starter Aviatorshades
- Start date
Aviatorshades
Well-Known Member
do you have a parts list for the rdwc system? I think itll be a much better idea than my connect em all together idea.View attachment 5264886
Normal drip system 3/4'' y-filter on the left, and 2" banjo with 80 mesh stainless steel screen on the right. Guess which one never clogs?
Drop That Sound
Well-Known Member
The parts needed for this compact 4 site RDWC, off the top of my head:
4x Square 5 gallon buckets (most the bigger home stores carry them now, even wallm4rt!).
1x large plastic tote for the res. Bigger (I should say wider) the better, and matching looks best. Keep in mind though.. that the way you remotely mount your res can change the type and amount of fittings\pipe\tubing needed, so plan for that accordingly, as you might need a few extra/less elbows, etc.
A small stack of 3, 3.75, or 4" Net Pots to fit in the lids. Bigger is not better IMO, and over 4" you start losing gallons worth of solution capacity, and have to lower the water level inch by inch for each size up, which really adds up, especially the taller net pots.
1 x ecoplus 396 fixed flow pump, using the included 3/4" barb input adapter fitting for inline operation.
You'll need a some black 3/4" and 1/2" tubing, but just to connect the pump to the PVC feed line rail, and also make the output line that pumps back into the res. Oh, and some 1/4 for the air lines.
Both 1" and 2" sch 40 PVC pipe. Might as well get a full stick of both. The more compact you make the system, the less you need, and vice versa. You'll need primer & cement as well.Plan to paint\cover any exposed PVC pipe to at least block light, or wrap with insulation later if you hookup a chiller.
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4x Square 5 gallon buckets (most the bigger home stores carry them now, even wallm4rt!).
1x large plastic tote for the res. Bigger (I should say wider) the better, and matching looks best. Keep in mind though.. that the way you remotely mount your res can change the type and amount of fittings\pipe\tubing needed, so plan for that accordingly, as you might need a few extra/less elbows, etc.
A small stack of 3, 3.75, or 4" Net Pots to fit in the lids. Bigger is not better IMO, and over 4" you start losing gallons worth of solution capacity, and have to lower the water level inch by inch for each size up, which really adds up, especially the taller net pots.
1 x ecoplus 396 fixed flow pump, using the included 3/4" barb input adapter fitting for inline operation.
You'll need a some black 3/4" and 1/2" tubing, but just to connect the pump to the PVC feed line rail, and also make the output line that pumps back into the res. Oh, and some 1/4 for the air lines.
Both 1" and 2" sch 40 PVC pipe. Might as well get a full stick of both. The more compact you make the system, the less you need, and vice versa. You'll need primer & cement as well.Plan to paint\cover any exposed PVC pipe to at least block light, or wrap with insulation later if you hookup a chiller.
...
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Drop That Sound
Well-Known Member
I say go ahead and fork out for a banjo 2" y-strainer, with 50 or 80 mesh screen, because you'll be saving so much money already going DIY, but you can get away with a 3/4" or 1" one if your feeling lucky. I don't reccomend them, because they can clog up way faster. Some of the parts needed for the return manifold will change depending on what size y-strainer you pick, but just a few basic fittings anyway. At least find one online that is 1 inch, with male threads if you can. I'll get to that more...
You'll need a 1" PVC ball valve that is NPT threaded, not the slip/glue kind. Better to be able to unscrew the whole 1 inch return line section, than glue it all up. Same with a few other parts.
As for the rest of the fittings, as you can see on the pic, for the bigger manifold sections you'll need:
5 x 2" PVC 90 degree elbows. Some could be s"street" elbows that are even more compact, but cost more, just use normal, for better flow)
1 x 2" PVC Tee
1x 2x1" PVC reducing Tee (slip or NPT for the 1 inch outlet, whatever you can find) (edit, you can also get another regular 2" tee like the one above, and glue in a 2" to 1" reducer bushing fitting, which might be even cheaper than the fancy reducer tee)
For the 1 inch return line section, like I said it kind of depends on what filter you get, but if you go with a 1 inch drip system y-filter, you just need whatever fittings it takes, starting from a Male PVC adapter, or pipe nipple, that screws or glues into the 2" reducer tee listed above. Then from there you just use a regular male 1" adapters to screw into the ball balve, and another one coming out of it. Same with the filter, so 2 more, possibly females. Then, you finally end right before the pump with a "1 in. x 3/4 in. PVC Barb x MPT Insert Male Adapter"
...which has a hose barb, to match the input fitting on the pump. Just connect them together with a short piece of 3/4 black tubing, which is all you need for that small section.
You'll also need a few more 3/4 barbed elbow fittings, to complete the final section of the tubing for the loop back to the res. N/M the 1/2 inch, its 3/4 all the way back to the res too. I'm thinking 1/2 because i cracked a fitting on one of the last systems, and had to use the extra 1/2 one that came with the pump.. Careful with those fittings, especially if you use hose clamps.
For the DIY 2" bulkheads, as you know from our DMs, you need:
9 x 2" Carlon brand Male PVC conduit electrical terminal fittings
9 x more female terminal fittings to go with the males
And a pack of size 331 rubber or silicone o-rings.
I'll finish the list off for ya soon, gotta run for now, lol.
You'll need a 1" PVC ball valve that is NPT threaded, not the slip/glue kind. Better to be able to unscrew the whole 1 inch return line section, than glue it all up. Same with a few other parts.
As for the rest of the fittings, as you can see on the pic, for the bigger manifold sections you'll need:
5 x 2" PVC 90 degree elbows. Some could be s"street" elbows that are even more compact, but cost more, just use normal, for better flow)
1 x 2" PVC Tee
1x 2x1" PVC reducing Tee (slip or NPT for the 1 inch outlet, whatever you can find) (edit, you can also get another regular 2" tee like the one above, and glue in a 2" to 1" reducer bushing fitting, which might be even cheaper than the fancy reducer tee)
For the 1 inch return line section, like I said it kind of depends on what filter you get, but if you go with a 1 inch drip system y-filter, you just need whatever fittings it takes, starting from a Male PVC adapter, or pipe nipple, that screws or glues into the 2" reducer tee listed above. Then from there you just use a regular male 1" adapters to screw into the ball balve, and another one coming out of it. Same with the filter, so 2 more, possibly females. Then, you finally end right before the pump with a "1 in. x 3/4 in. PVC Barb x MPT Insert Male Adapter"
...which has a hose barb, to match the input fitting on the pump. Just connect them together with a short piece of 3/4 black tubing, which is all you need for that small section.
You'll also need a few more 3/4 barbed elbow fittings, to complete the final section of the tubing for the loop back to the res. N/M the 1/2 inch, its 3/4 all the way back to the res too. I'm thinking 1/2 because i cracked a fitting on one of the last systems, and had to use the extra 1/2 one that came with the pump.. Careful with those fittings, especially if you use hose clamps.
For the DIY 2" bulkheads, as you know from our DMs, you need:
9 x 2" Carlon brand Male PVC conduit electrical terminal fittings
9 x more female terminal fittings to go with the males
And a pack of size 331 rubber or silicone o-rings.
I'll finish the list off for ya soon, gotta run for now, lol.
Attachments
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