CO2, high intensity RH/Temp or Low to avoid budrot?

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cousinsmooth

Member
Some people claim do high intensity temps and RH until last couple weeks then stop for ethylene ripening to begin. Sure stopping 2 weeks prior decreases yield, but l want the best quality so that aromas don't get damaged and they ripen properly last couple weeks from what I was told. I've also heard trichs can get damaged mid flower and to run lower temps and RH and CO2. About 600 ppm. This is low intensity but is this the best quality way? Or are we supposed to sacrifice trichs and use high intensity RH and temp with high PPM CO2 all the way until last 2 weeks? Won't the trichs get damaged mid flower then? Some people say you can get budrot and stuff too if you are going for high intensity with those high temps and humidity levels. That you are better off doing the lower intensity CO2 with lower RH and temps for trich protection and potential disease budrot. I am so confused and want CO2 EXPERIENCED users to please give their opinion. All this information is from a previous CO2 thread I discussed. I just want to get to the bottom of this CO2 stuff and figure out the BEST quality and balance for trichs and aroma since that's really how quality is measured. Thank you.
 
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Bud man 43

Well-Known Member
I am no expert on this topic- however i do understand that when growing indoors in a small space the plants will eventually use up the available co2 and growth will slow or stop.
As with everything there are simple ways to introduce some co2 to your growing area and complicated expensive ways with precice control of the ppm.
I went with the simple natural route and i have 3 Exhale 360 bags hanging in my grow area with a 100$ monitor- the plants will do well in the 500-800 range. A bit higher is ok but probably not needed. They just need something producing some co2 to keep up with the plants use converting it to oxygen.
The monitor is useful to see the current level and to be sure there is not too much which can be dangerous to people inhaling high concentrations- above 2000 is pushing a dangerous indoor level.
 
C

cousinsmooth

Member
Bud man 43 said:
I am no expert on this topic- however i do understand that when growing indoors in a small space the plants will eventually use up the available co2 and growth will slow or stop.
As with everything there are simple ways to introduce some co2 to your growing area and complicated expensive ways with precice control of the ppm.
I went with the simple natural route and i have 3 Exhale 360 bags hanging in my grow area with a 100$ monitor- the plants will do well in the 500-800 range. A bit higher is ok but probably not needed. They just need something producing some co2 to keep up with the plants use converting it to oxygen.
The monitor is useful to see the current level and to be sure there is not too much which can be dangerous to people inhaling high concentrations- above 2000 is pushing a dangerous indoor level.
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This didn't answer my question but I really appreciate it. Very good knowledge still. It sounds like you are using lower temps and RH so your trichs are fine and you prob never get mold or bud rot. There's no need for high intensity with those low levels of 5-800 right? I heard higher temps like 80+ and rh 70+ is for like 1200-1500 ppm. I'm just wondering how those people's trichs are holding up from the things I've read about. Also if they ever get the budrot. I would love to push for that high intensity but only if it benefits my quality. I don't care about yield if my quality is lower. I will probably do what you are doing. I bet high intensity is for yield purposes... There must be a fine balance between them for optimum harvests but at the end of the day there's probably a low point for absolute best quality too... Something to consider for personal strains and then push for a slightly higher ppm that is well balanced between yield/quality for commercial.
 
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Bud man 43

Well-Known Member
I am basement growing with LEDs and some full spectrum for some extra uv. My temps are usually around 69-70 and rh rarely exceeds 60%_ usually around 50. My trichome production has been very good and I was satisfied with my very first grow and it gets better as I learn. I recently read an article how plants will be unique due to growing environments- so if you and a friend have the same clone the end product will vary due to the difference in environment, soil conditions, nutes etc. My best advice so far is to not try to get hung up on every little thing- it is a plant that will mostly adapt to its conditions and if you give it the basics it will thrive. I believe keeping the temps and rh lower rather than higher is safer to avoid mold and rot. I have had none so far - knock on wood.
Last harvest had big solid buds that dried nicely and are very firm. The one in my hand is from my very first harvest and this is cured- not as solid as the bottom photo plants but a very nice smoke. On my last grow I didn’t get to cut my second plant for a week or so and when I got to it I swear the trichomes had really developed a lot in that week as the plant wilted and died under the lights.

45345F4D-7113-43F6-9AA7-C5CCD196C270.jpegF43632E6-AB7B-465F-B2C9-0E430C38B2FA.jpegCBB181A1-6291-4D0B-8ED2-1859020B18B5.jpeg
 
C

cousinsmooth

Member
Bud man 43 said:
I am basement growing with LEDs and some full spectrum for some extra uv. My temps are usually around 69-70 and rh rarely exceeds 60%_ usually around 50. My trichome production has been very good and I was satisfied with my very first grow and it gets better as I learn. I recently read an article how plants will be unique due to growing environments- so if you and a friend have the same clone the end product will vary due to the difference in environment, soil conditions, nutes etc. My best advice so far is to not try to get hung up on every little thing- it is a plant that will mostly adapt to its conditions and if you give it the basics it will thrive. I believe keeping the temps and rh lower rather than higher is safer to avoid mold and rot. I have had none so far - knock on wood.
Last harvest had big solid buds that dried nicely and are very firm. The one in my hand is from my very first harvest and this is cured- not as solid as the bottom photo plants but a very nice smoke. On my last grow I didn’t get to cut my second plant for a week or so and when I got to it I swear the trichomes had really developed a lot in that week as the plant wilted and died under the lights.

View attachment 5144960View attachment 5144961View attachment 5144962
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So harvesting a week late actually benefited and gave you more trichs since it sucked more life out the dieing plant ? Just want to make sure I have this right. Also are you DWC or soil grower? Under that metal scrog or whatever that is , please let me know what that is for if not for scrogging, I can't tell what's underneath. DWC Reservoir or soil pots?
 
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Bud man 43

Well-Known Member
I am using 3 gallon fabric pots with coco perlite mix. Plants are on a stainless rack on top of trays to drain into. I am using GH flora series with cal mag and floraliciuos- then liquid koolbloom at beginning of flowering and dry koolbloom the last 4 weeks or so.
Yes i think the trichomes developed a lot that last week on the dying plant. I am going to experiment on 2 of the same strain next harvest to try to confirm but it does seem to follow the logic that the plant is producing more trichomes because of stress.
 
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cousinsmooth

Member
Bud man 43 said:
I am using 3 gallon fabric pots with coco perlite mix. Plants are on a stainless rack on top of trays to drain into. I am using GH flora series with cal mag and floraliciuos- then liquid koolbloom at beginning of flowering and dry koolbloom the last 4 weeks or so.
Yes i think the trichomes developed a lot that last week on the dying plant. I am going to experiment on 2 of the same strain next harvest to try to confirm but it does seem to follow the logic that the plant is producing more trichomes because of stress.
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My only concern is that even if you got more trichs, you would have more of the ones you do already have degrade and turn amber by just being milky cloudy white too long. The longer you wait the more amber pops up. But if you're saying more trichs got produced then I gets it's a wash because some degraded more and then you got more. I haven't heard of this yet definitely keep me posted on your tests please ;)
 
calvin.m16

calvin.m16

Well-Known Member
I run a constant co2 of 1200 and it does not matter day or night on results. I have gone as high as 2000 ppms and there is literally no difference other than no co2 usually results in mediocre yields.

Yeah dude its smart to keep buds below 77 °F in the last weeks before harvest because almost all volatile terpene oils evaporate above 77 °F if I'm correct, something like 77-82 °F. Remember, this is plant surface temperature not air temperature. If you're running HID lighting like HPS, MH you could have +3 to +5 plant surface temperatures or LST (Leaf Surface Temperature) and this will need to be taken into consideration as a 75 degree room could still allow buds & leaves to reach 80+ °F.

If you smell your plants like crazy that mens the oils are evaporating, I have noticed lowering temperatures keeping them 75-77 F for the last 30 days or so seems to help with oil production and I don't get bland weed. I have had mini splits fail and weed did turnout more bland due to hot temperatures. Also fox tailing and other issues occurred..
 
C

cousinsmooth

Member
calvin.m16 said:
I run a constant co2 of 1200 and it does not matter day or night on results. I have gone as high as 2000 ppms and there is literally no difference other than no co2 usually results in mediocre yields.

Yeah dude its smart to keep buds below 77 °F in the last weeks before harvest because almost all volatile terpene oils evaporate above 77 °F if I'm correct, something like 77-82 °F. Remember, this is plant surface temperature not air temperature. If you're running HID lighting like HPS, MH you could have +3 to +5 plant surface temperatures or LST (Leaf Surface Temperature) and this will need to be taken into consideration as a 75 degree room could still allow buds & leaves to reach 80+ °F.

If you smell your plants like crazy that mens the oils are evaporating, I have noticed lowering temperatures keeping them 75-77 F for the last 30 days or so seems to help with oil production and I don't get bland weed. I have had mini splits fail and weed did turnout more bland due to hot temperatures. Also fox tailing and other issues occurred..
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Any idea what instrument can be used to measure temp on surface of leaves and plant ? Would love to buy something that can help me ensure my crop doesn't lose quality due to temperature on the actual plant.
 
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