caverage
Active Member
what are you running with it ?
Cob heat issues
- Thread starter caverage
- Start date
Abiqua
Well-Known Member
Right now I have 2x Cree 3070 3k AB and 1x V29 3k [108ish volts in series] ........bought it to add a fourth and for adjustable pot....not dimmable though thru PMW or 10v, but not a huge deal, still 91-94% efficient.....
Abiqua
Well-Known Member
yeah, technically....I haven't checked it yet though.....I need to get a Kill A Watt so I can at least determine my base lines...Compared to the chinese crap holes I have been sourcing also thru Ebay, this thing is a friggin tank!
Abiqua
Well-Known Member
LED's in constant current, don't really like to be ran in Parallel unless you have extremely close VF's or current mirrors to regulate the circuit...
Running in series, takes advantage of the High Voltage produced on the DC Side....as in Series, you add voltage when wiring this way and current is hence Constant.....All these Meanwells are CC drivers....
No advantage other than just utilizing the current.....
hth
![wiring leds in paralled circuit [current mirror].jpg](/data/attachments/2468/2468154-8d5f37a8962ede521f5f69f2524463ee.jpg?hash=jV83qJYu3l)
![wiring leds in paralled circuit [over-current protection].jpg](/data/attachments/2468/2468156-f27f0ae89609e64ea5b85954bee7e305.jpg?hash=8n8K6JYJ5k)
Abiqua
Well-Known Member
Another note:
My driver is the HLG-C120-1050A [A =meaning there is only a dimmable internal pot]
There are also B and C versions for all current ranges too [350ma, 500ma, 700ma, 1050, 1400ma]....... B is for dimming with 10v external power source and C adds PWM dimming along with the other 2........
I would look for the C version, for your build, usually the same price as the other versions [A,B], but adds dimming capability for when you might want to use it....either analog [10v] or digital [PWM]
The Meanwell HLG-C185-C1050x, is the next step up and will do 5x 3070's @ 1050 amps......in the future the 185-1400X will do 4x the CXB 3070's @ 1400mA's....
THe HLG's are all badass drivers and about as good as gets for efficiency right now
Rahz
Well-Known Member
That is a lot of watts for a 2x2 tent. Lowering it to 160-200 would still be nice output for the space, but as far as cooling I think the main problem is the 25 feet of 4 inch duct really putting some resistance on that fan. A 190 CFM fan would probably be fine with a shorter duct... not sure that's possible in your situation though. At any rate, 60 watts per foot is nuts/awesome.
Edit: Wanted to add, you could use a 6-4" reducer in reverse and try that 25 foot run with 6" duct if you had some laying around. That would improve the airflow. Whether it would be enough to resolve the situation I'm not sure but it might be worth a try.
Edit: Wanted to add, you could use a 6-4" reducer in reverse and try that 25 foot run with 6" duct if you had some laying around. That would improve the airflow. Whether it would be enough to resolve the situation I'm not sure but it might be worth a try.
Last edited:
alesh
Well-Known Member
There are A, B and D versions.Another note:
My driver is the HLG-C120-1050A [A =meaning there is only a dimmable internal pot]
There are also B and C versions for all current ranges too [350ma, 500ma, 700ma, 1050, 1400ma]....... B is for dimming with 10v external power source and C adds PWM dimming along with the other 2........
I would look for the C version, for your build, usually the same price as the other versions [A,B], but adds dimming capability for when you might want to use it....either analog [10v] or digital [PWM]
The Meanwell HLG-C185-C1050x, is the next step up and will do 5x 3070's @ 1050 amps......in the future the 185-1400X will do 4x the CXB 3070's @ 1400mA's....
THe HLG's are all badass drivers and about as good as gets for efficiency right now
A - internal pot dimiming (only IP65 rated).
B - MW 3 in 1 dimming (ext. pot, 1-10V or PWM).
And finally D version with timer dimming.
No C.
caverage
Active Member
Rahz I tried Running just into the attic with maybe only 5 ft of ducting max. let it sit this way for about 2 hours and Didnt notice a difference.
I removed one driver/led slide connector and only have 3 cxas going in the tent at 150 watts of driver, havent used the killawat but IM guessing its around 190. temp dropped pretty significantly . Looks like ill definitely be ordering a new driver
medicinehuman
Well-Known Member
I am using a couple of these http://www.ebay.com/itm/Inventronics-160w-Led-Driver-Constant-Current-Type-Quad-Channels-Model-EUC-1/141584779393?_trksid=p2047675.c100012.m1985&_trkparms=aid=444000&algo=SOI.DEFAULT&ao=1&asc=20131230161411&meid=cfa39f658df7405bafcf2fd13af77e1c&pid=100012&rk=1&rkt=4&sd=131354816903 and they work fine, not too warm also. andhttp://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-INVENTR...356?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5b092d0d1c this 1050
caverage
Active Member
Abiqua
Well-Known Member
I believe that SupraSpl did the efficiency test on these and they fell somewhere between 87-89%...pretty good actually...but what was reported, these are unique drivers, as they have 4x parallel channels, and act wonky, when less than all 4 channels are being used....
I think these are a pretty good deal and looked over them as well, they have been on Ebay for a bit...
NapalmD
Well-Known Member
I'm running 6 cxa3070s in a 2x2.5 at 240 at the wall and my temps have been warmer than when I was running the Onyx at 226 at the wall. 79 with highs of 81 before and now with the cobs it's been a stable 84 and peaked today at some point at 88! but the outside room was pretty warm today.
It hasnt been uncommon for my tent to hit 86 even with the cool outside air intake. I have my inside fan aiming down at the lights, well one of the lights and canopy as of an hour ago.
Waiting to see now if that helps.
I wonder if it could be the cobs light hitting the thermometer because the thermometer was never in the direct light of the Onyx.
It hasnt been uncommon for my tent to hit 86 even with the cool outside air intake. I have my inside fan aiming down at the lights, well one of the lights and canopy as of an hour ago.
Waiting to see now if that helps.
I wonder if it could be the cobs light hitting the thermometer because the thermometer was never in the direct light of the Onyx.
caverage
Active Member
They seem cheap enough to give them a run !
try shading your therm like supra mentioned, I have a cone paper cup that is cut down to about an inch above mine around the wire like a lil umbrella
try shading your therm like supra mentioned, I have a cone paper cup that is cut down to about an inch above mine around the wire like a lil umbrella
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