kovidkough
Well-Known Member
can you share this please
Curing humidity range?
- Thread starter Raspberrykiwi
- Start date
Topshelfruns
Well-Known Member
Okay boss man not gonna fight you because this is what i learned in oaksterdam university that the cure is the breakdown of chlorophyll and the flush is the breakdown of sugars and starches.
So may i ask you what is the cure than? Like may i ask you what is the cure in your opinion?
kovidkough
Well-Known Member
before u two argue it out can you explain how you cure in 3 days, id really like to know without spending all that $$ on oaksterdam
maranibbana
Well-Known Member
the cure, is a whole hell of a lot more than just the breaking down of chlorophyll lol
Topshelfruns
Well-Known Member
Easy so in oaksterdam's grow book it says that the flush is the breakdown of sugars and starches and the cure is the breakdown of chlorophyll it says that if you separate the entire plant from the root ball and hang the whole plant for 3 days the metabolic processes of the plant will continue and they will break down sugars starches and chlorophyll for you.
Im not trying too fight anyone i dont consider myself a master grower with that being said i just want more info? Like what is the cure than? Im super curious
kovidkough
Well-Known Member
nvm I found it
In an ideal situation, most of the moisture should evaporate from the bud during the first three days, and then the drying process should be slowed.
To achieve this rate of evaporation in the first three days, a temperature of 68° F (20° C) and a relative humidity of 55% will ensure that the buds get to roughly 30-40% water content. From this moment on, the temperature should be dropped a few degrees down to 64° F (18° C) to slow the drying process. This allows the chlorophyll to decompose and the starches to be used up. If the buds dry too quickly, more of the chlorophyll will remain, and the smoke will be bitter and have a green aftertaste.
The humidity of the air is also critical: If it drops below 50%, the buds will dry too fast. A timer and heater/air conditioner system with humidity control will regulate air. In total, the drying process takes around 10 to 14 days for a perfect taste.
Taste is not the only variable affected by the drying process; the high is also affected.
The Church by Green House Seed Company.
The longer the buds are dried, the more THC will degrade into CBN and other cannabinoids. Therefore even in the same strain, the effect will slightly change from higher to more stoned, from uplifting to more physical.
The difference between drying 10 days and 14 days is not very evident to the novice, but creates a world of difference to the connoisseur.
After drying, gardeners package the crop. Commercial producers usually dry the buds to 15% water content; this results in a heavier product. (More water equals more money.)
Connoisseurs like to use bud that has 8% water content because the flavor improves and the weed burns better.
If the buds are to be smoked with tobacco, higher water content is preferable, up to 10-12% for good burning. When the weed is intended for vaporizing, it is best to leave even higher water content, 12 to 15%. This prevents the easy combustion of smaller particles at vaporization temperature.
The Ideal Curing Process And Why You Take The Time To Cure
Sweet Tarts - Photo by Devils Lettuce
After the drying is finished, the connoisseur will still dedicate a month or two more to curing their cannabis.
In an ideal situation, most of the moisture should evaporate from the bud during the first three days, and then the drying process should be slowed.
To achieve this rate of evaporation in the first three days, a temperature of 68° F (20° C) and a relative humidity of 55% will ensure that the buds get to roughly 30-40% water content. From this moment on, the temperature should be dropped a few degrees down to 64° F (18° C) to slow the drying process. This allows the chlorophyll to decompose and the starches to be used up. If the buds dry too quickly, more of the chlorophyll will remain, and the smoke will be bitter and have a green aftertaste.
The humidity of the air is also critical: If it drops below 50%, the buds will dry too fast. A timer and heater/air conditioner system with humidity control will regulate air. In total, the drying process takes around 10 to 14 days for a perfect taste.
Taste is not the only variable affected by the drying process; the high is also affected.
The Church by Green House Seed Company.
The longer the buds are dried, the more THC will degrade into CBN and other cannabinoids. Therefore even in the same strain, the effect will slightly change from higher to more stoned, from uplifting to more physical.
The difference between drying 10 days and 14 days is not very evident to the novice, but creates a world of difference to the connoisseur.
After drying, gardeners package the crop. Commercial producers usually dry the buds to 15% water content; this results in a heavier product. (More water equals more money.)
Connoisseurs like to use bud that has 8% water content because the flavor improves and the weed burns better.
If the buds are to be smoked with tobacco, higher water content is preferable, up to 10-12% for good burning. When the weed is intended for vaporizing, it is best to leave even higher water content, 12 to 15%. This prevents the easy combustion of smaller particles at vaporization temperature.
The Ideal Curing Process And Why You Take The Time To Cure
Sweet Tarts - Photo by Devils Lettuce
After the drying is finished, the connoisseur will still dedicate a month or two more to curing their cannabis.
Topshelfruns
Well-Known Member
Thank younvm I found it
In an ideal situation, most of the moisture should evaporate from the bud during the first three days, and then the drying process should be slowed.
To achieve this rate of evaporation in the first three days, a temperature of 68° F (20° C) and a relative humidity of 55% will ensure that the buds get to roughly 30-40% water content. From this moment on, the temperature should be dropped a few degrees down to 64° F (18° C) to slow the drying process. This allows the chlorophyll to decompose and the starches to be used up. If the buds dry too quickly, more of the chlorophyll will remain, and the smoke will be bitter and have a green aftertaste.
The humidity of the air is also critical: If it drops below 50%, the buds will dry too fast. A timer and heater/air conditioner system with humidity control will regulate air. In total, the drying process takes around 10 to 14 days for a perfect taste.
Taste is not the only variable affected by the drying process; the high is also affected.
The Church by Green House Seed Company.
The longer the buds are dried, the more THC will degrade into CBN and other cannabinoids. Therefore even in the same strain, the effect will slightly change from higher to more stoned, from uplifting to more physical.
The difference between drying 10 days and 14 days is not very evident to the novice, but creates a world of difference to the connoisseur.
After drying, gardeners package the crop. Commercial producers usually dry the buds to 15% water content; this results in a heavier product. (More water equals more money.)
Connoisseurs like to use bud that has 8% water content because the flavor improves and the weed burns better.
If the buds are to be smoked with tobacco, higher water content is preferable, up to 10-12% for good burning. When the weed is intended for vaporizing, it is best to leave even higher water content, 12 to 15%. This prevents the easy combustion of smaller particles at vaporization temperature.
The Ideal Curing Process And Why You Take The Time To Cure
Sweet Tarts - Photo by Devils Lettuce
After the drying is finished, the connoisseur will still dedicate a month or two more to curing their cannabis.
but im still lost so wtf is the cure?
kovidkough
Well-Known Member
kovidkough
Well-Known Member
I guess he considers the first 3 days dry, then 10 days slow dry, then after in storage is the "cure" at least that's how i understand it
kovidkough
Well-Known Member
every wine maker has different methods im sure we all do it differently anyway
environmental factors are key and I don't have the ability to perfectly maintain those parameters but idc still smokes fine
I think the OP would find better success in good genetics over worrying to much , like i said i dried some ethos buds literally on top of my wood stove , down to powder crumble dry and it legit smelled of blueberry the whole house stunk and it tastes like blueberry cookies.. no cure , quick dried, changed my mind on everything
environmental factors are key and I don't have the ability to perfectly maintain those parameters but idc still smokes fine
I think the OP would find better success in good genetics over worrying to much , like i said i dried some ethos buds literally on top of my wood stove , down to powder crumble dry and it legit smelled of blueberry the whole house stunk and it tastes like blueberry cookies.. no cure , quick dried, changed my mind on everything
Topshelfruns
Well-Known Member
Thank you, you just blew my mind with that post i greatly appreciate the link this entyre time i assumed the cure was just breaking down chlorophyll
kovidkough
Well-Known Member
np , I was like 3 days?!?!? please learn me something, seemed abit impossible without a dehydrator
maranibbana
Well-Known Member
also I guess it depends on what people consider "curing" right?
to some that means jars
to some that means a tent
to some that means entire rooms...
all I know is the colder and slower the dry, and the longer the buds remain on the plant in the soil, the better the end result for me.
aka... when the plants are ready....I plop them in a pitch black 45-55*f room at 70%RH and let them stay in their pots at that for about 5-7 days....
then I lower the RH to 65% and let them ride that out for usually another 4-5 days...
remind you they are still on the plant and in the pot and in the dark room at 45-55*f and I haven't given them water or anything at all other than removing the largest fan leaves...
there are two directions I like to go from here...
one is...once I notice the very outside of the buds getting "dry" I chop the buds and place them into tubs and monitor the RH to keep it hovering around 62-65% (mind you they are no where near dry rn, outer leaves protecting the buds are still moist, but the buds themselves feel "dry") I do this by opening the containers when I see the RH hit 70%+ and let it level out to 60-62% before I put the lid back on and come back to check in a few hours.... I keep doing this until the RH levels out to around 60-62%....
some have boveda packs... I love them and throw in a 58% for my Percy stash to keep long term...
the second direction I take is instead of chopping the buds from the plant I keep the plant in tact and in the soil in the dark cold room and do the same thing that I would in the tubs/jars but instead over a longer period of time (4-6 weeks) and lower the RH of the room until it kept a steady 60-62% RH without any help...
drying/curing on the plant in the medium for as long as possible has given me the best results so far...
keep them as cold as possible during this entire process
idk try some shit out
I suggest getting a cheap humidifier that you can control the RH% so it shuts its self off if the RH gets too high, and also a dehumidifier set at the proper RH so that it also shuts off etc...
COLD AS POSSIBLE YOU WONT REGRET IT
to some that means jars
to some that means a tent
to some that means entire rooms...
all I know is the colder and slower the dry, and the longer the buds remain on the plant in the soil, the better the end result for me.
aka... when the plants are ready....I plop them in a pitch black 45-55*f room at 70%RH and let them stay in their pots at that for about 5-7 days....
then I lower the RH to 65% and let them ride that out for usually another 4-5 days...
remind you they are still on the plant and in the pot and in the dark room at 45-55*f and I haven't given them water or anything at all other than removing the largest fan leaves...
there are two directions I like to go from here...
one is...once I notice the very outside of the buds getting "dry" I chop the buds and place them into tubs and monitor the RH to keep it hovering around 62-65% (mind you they are no where near dry rn, outer leaves protecting the buds are still moist, but the buds themselves feel "dry") I do this by opening the containers when I see the RH hit 70%+ and let it level out to 60-62% before I put the lid back on and come back to check in a few hours.... I keep doing this until the RH levels out to around 60-62%....
some have boveda packs... I love them and throw in a 58% for my Percy stash to keep long term...
the second direction I take is instead of chopping the buds from the plant I keep the plant in tact and in the soil in the dark cold room and do the same thing that I would in the tubs/jars but instead over a longer period of time (4-6 weeks) and lower the RH of the room until it kept a steady 60-62% RH without any help...
drying/curing on the plant in the medium for as long as possible has given me the best results so far...
keep them as cold as possible during this entire process
idk try some shit out
I suggest getting a cheap humidifier that you can control the RH% so it shuts its self off if the RH gets too high, and also a dehumidifier set at the proper RH so that it also shuts off etc...
COLD AS POSSIBLE YOU WONT REGRET IT
kovidkough
Well-Known Member
I agree with low and slow as the best terps can evaporate at 70 degrees, ive heard of a grower/breeder that doesn't exceed 65degrees for his entire flower period , but never heard of this other then that one guyalso I guess it depends on what people consider "curing" right?
to some that means jars
to some that means a tent
to some that means entire rooms...
all I know is the colder and slower the dry, and the longer the buds remain on the plant in the soil, the better the end result for me.
aka... when the plants are ready....I plop them in a pitch black 45-55*f room at 70%RH and let them stay in their pots at that for about 5-7 days....
then I lower the RH to 65% and let them ride that out for usually another 4-5 days...
remind you they are still on the plant and in the pot and in the dark room at 45-55*f and I haven't given them water or anything at all other than removing the largest fan leaves...
there are two directions I like to go from here...
one is...once I notice the very outside of the buds getting "dry" I chop the buds and place them into tubs and monitor the RH to keep it hovering around 62-65% (mind you they are no where near dry rn, outer leaves protecting the buds are still moist, but the buds themselves feel "dry") I do this by opening the containers when I see the RH hit 70%+ and let it level out to 60-62% before I put the lid back on and come back to check in a few hours.... I keep doing this until the RH levels out to around 60-62%....
some have boveda packs... I love them and throw in a 58% for my Percy stash to keep long term...
the second direction I take is instead of chopping the buds from the plant I keep the plant in tact and in the soil in the dark cold room and do the same thing that I would in the tubs/jars but instead over a longer period of time (4-6 weeks) and lower the RH of the room until it kept a steady 60-62% RH without any help...
drying/curing on the plant in the medium for as long as possible has given me the best results so far...
keep them as cold as possible during this entire process
idk try some shit out
I suggest getting a cheap humidifier that you can control the RH% so it shuts its self off if the RH gets too high, and also a dehumidifier set at the proper RH so that it also shuts off etc...
COLD AS POSSIBLE YOU WONT REGRET IT
maranibbana
Well-Known Member
tortoise always wins baby
Maddmaxx70
Member
I heard it's best around 55-60% if you over dried it you can always throw a bovita in there to moisten things up again. Better to over dry than to under dry and get mold. IMO
Maddmaxx70
Member
That's wild. I have never heard of that before, then again I have a friend that grows in dwc, with res temps pushing 81-82 and he has never had any root problems, me on the other hand if my temps get above 76,I got to call the national guards to help me save my roots lol. I think it depends on your environment and your seed genetics. Just my two cents
kovidkough
Well-Known Member
I have no idea if it was DWC, I suppose that would help the root zone tremendously, you can also use heat rods for the roots, as long as root zone temp is good the foliage can undergo pretty huge extremes
Maddmaxx70
Member
That's the thing about this hobby, so many variables, more than linear algebra lol. What works for a few might not work for the rest. What is the hottest res temps have you heard of and the grow was a success...
kovidkough
Well-Known Member
I have never heard of anyone pushing for warmer in DWC , colder water holds more oxygen so id assume your goal is to go as low as you can without harm