Curing times in a very dry climate

zubey91

Well-Known Member
so I grew some really good weed Mazar/LA conf mix.. anyway I live in COlorado and for the past month or so its been under 10 humidity so when I chopped my plant and dried it out it literally took 3 days.. anyway i trimmed and put them in jars.. 2 weeks have gone by (i've burped the jars and stuff during this time) and the weed is very very dry.. i wouldn't say brittle and there is still a slight hay smell to it.. you can definately smell some dank but its not totally done curing yet. now my question is this..

Since it is such a dry climate did the weed dry out too much and mess up the curing process? should I stick a couple moistened qtips in there to regain some water and continue curing? or is this normal to where the buds very dry but is it still curing? if that makes any sense
 
the whole idea behind the curing process.. er, let me put this into terms you might understand.

All curing is.. is slowing down the drying of the product.

Secondly.. if your buds have absolutely NO moisture in them.. the cure won't happen.


I would highly suggest reading some Drying & Curing articles. I've got one on RIU.. its in the 'Sticky' section.. in the subforum 'Harvesting & Curing'.

Read it.. you'll understand what I'm talking about after you have read the article.


peace.
 
While there are variables that make it difficult to control the drying time, we can easily control the cure time. I never dry for more than three days. Doing so is counter-productive to a good cure. After 3 days, I jar them, each half gallon jar contains buds still on the stems, and a hygrometer. I don't leave much airspace at the top, and that is for a reason. The buds are in varying shapes and sizes and in order to get a controlled cure, we have to sweat the buds once to get everything even. We do that by jarring up the goods after 3 days dry time, whether all the buds feel dry or not. I leave the jars closed up tight for about 3-4 hours, and then I place them in my collapsible net dryer for just 10-12 hours. In this short time, the outsides will crisp up again, quickly. Don't waste too much time getting them back into the jars. At this point, the hygrometers should be reading just under 70% humidity.. and holding steady. If one goes over 70%, empty that jar onto some newspaper and let it sit out for 6 hours and then jar it back up for 6 hours. Eventually, it should drop below 70% and stay there.

Now is the time to sweat it out, slowly. Once we get the weed down below 70%, we have greatly reduced the chance of mold or mildew and can begin the slow, drawn out cure to improve flavor, THC levels and allow the terpenoid oils to develop that wonderful aroma that drives us all wild with passion. I allow my jars to breathe for about 15 minutes a day, twice a day, as long as the RH is below 70% but above 65%. My goal now is to take about 3-4 days to get my weed to 65% relative humidity when jarred. At 65%, the chance for mold is almost non-existent, and we can start to skip a day between burping the jars. At 65 - 60%, I burp for about 2-3 minutes, once every other day.

When you get to 60% RH in the jars, you are nearing long term storage ability. The goal now is to take your time getting the RH to 55%. At 55%, we want to stop burping the jars and consider a longer term storage that is cool and dark. At the 60% - 55% range, i burp once a week, for maybe 5 minutes. Now I never neglect to check the jars several times a day for mold at first, even when I am not burping. I also cut the buds from the stem after the RH is steady and just below 70% and re-jar, leaving about 20% air space at the top. I also gently shake the jars to move the bud around, and use a chop stick if I have to to break up clingers.

This is how I do it. I learned this method, right here on RIU. It is a simple to follow recipe that takes all the BS out of drying and curing. It doesn't matter if you have a high humidity or a low one, everyone can do this. Regardless of how the bud feels at 3 days of hanging, pull it and jar it. As long as you have hygrometers, you won't fail.... the ones pictured below were only $4 on eBay. Some may wish to spend more for a more reliable one, but these can be adjusted from the back to match your trusted analog or digital meter as well. Every new grower should use these until they have mastered curing. even some masters, including those working in tobacco, still use them.

View attachment 1519030
 
I have to say.. well put.

However, the cure stops once the RH value hits below 55%. So I personally.. wouldn't want to let my RH values get that low.

What I do, when using this method.. is simple and I can break it down very simply as well.

first step: throw the "dried' buds into my jar
second step: put the lid in the jar with my hygrometer and wait 24 hours (reason to do this, is to give the hygrometer time to give you an accurate reading)
third step: after the initial 24 hour waiting period.. I check the hygrometer.

After I get my initial 24 hour RH value.. I can then start to burp the jars.. to slowly bring down the RH values over time.

But see.. you say you bring yours all the way down to 55%? Your flirting with danger if you ask me.. ;)

I stop burping my jars.. once my RH value hits 58%. That's where I like my buds.. it doesn't leave them to dry for my likings.. nor to soft. Just right IMO..


I was just wondering why you bring your RH values all the way down to the 55%? Dangerous!

peace.
 
I slowly bring my RH down to 55% for long term storage. At that point, the cure is actually complete.... Getting my jars down to 55% RH takes a few months of burping, it doesn't happen in a week or two. I hardly think a 3% difference in our RH goals is that significant. At 55% RH, my bud maintains moisture to smoke smoothly and evenly and it doesn't smolder on when a pipe is set down. Why would you call 55% dangerous on a process that can take months to reach that level? Why is 58% not dangerous, but my goal of 55% is? Please explain.. :)
 
While there are variables that make it difficult to control the drying time, we can easily control the cure time. I never dry for more than three days. Doing so is counter-productive to a good cure. After 3 days, I jar them, each half gallon jar contains buds still on the stems, and a hygrometer. I don't leave much airspace at the top, and that is for a reason. The buds are in varying shapes and sizes and in order to get a controlled cure, we have to sweat the buds once to get everything even. We do that by jarring up the goods after 3 days dry time, whether all the buds feel dry or not. I leave the jars closed up tight for about 3-4 hours, and then I place them in my collapsible net dryer for just 10-12 hours. In this short time, the outsides will crisp up again, quickly. Don't waste too much time getting them back into the jars. At this point, the hygrometers should be reading just under 70% humidity.. and holding steady. If one goes over 70%, empty that jar onto some newspaper and let it sit out for 6 hours and then jar it back up for 6 hours. Eventually, it should drop below 70% and stay there.

Now is the time to sweat it out, slowly. Once we get the weed down below 70%, we have greatly reduced the chance of mold or mildew and can begin the slow, drawn out cure to improve flavor, THC levels and allow the terpenoid oils to develop that wonderful aroma that drives us all wild with passion. I allow my jars to breathe for about 15 minutes a day, twice a day, as long as the RH is below 70% but above 65%. My goal now is to take about 3-4 days to get my weed to 65% relative humidity when jarred. At 65%, the chance for mold is almost non-existent, and we can start to skip a day between burping the jars. At 65 - 60%, I burp for about 2-3 minutes, once every other day.

When you get to 60% RH in the jars, you are nearing long term storage ability. The goal now is to take your time getting the RH to 55%. At 55%, we want to stop burping the jars and consider a longer term storage that is cool and dark. At the 60% - 55% range, i burp once a week, for maybe 5 minutes. Now I never neglect to check the jars several times a day for mold at first, even when I am not burping. I also cut the buds from the stem after the RH is steady and just below 70% and re-jar, leaving about 20% air space at the top. I also gently shake the jars to move the bud around, and use a chop stick if I have to to break up clingers.

This is how I do it. I learned this method, right here on RIU. It is a simple to follow recipe that takes all the BS out of drying and curing. It doesn't matter if you have a high humidity or a low one, everyone can do this. Regardless of how the bud feels at 3 days of hanging, pull it and jar it. As long as you have hygrometers, you won't fail.... the ones pictured below were only $4 on eBay. Some may wish to spend more for a more reliable one, but these can be adjusted from the back to match your trusted analog or digital meter as well. Every new grower should use these until they have mastered curing. even some masters, including those working in tobacco, still use them.

View attachment 1519030

THC in weed can't go up after the plant is chopped. It can only go down.
 
While you are correct that the total THC will not increase, the amount of psychoactive THC will increase while the non-psychoactive will decrease. Ask Brick Top about the SIMM study that has proven, and i thought, widely known, that proper curing can indeed increase the amount of active THC by up to 30 some percent. He'll be happy to paste the data and conclusions for you. Inactive THC is converted to active during teh curing process through chemical reactions that take place after the chop. Just because you cut the plant, doesn't mean that those chemical reactions stop occurring.

Proper drying and curing will also ensure maximum potency of the marijuana you have grown. Marijuana is not potent just after harvest. Some of the THC is in a non-psychoactive acidic form. Drying marijuana the right way will convert the non-psychoactive acidic compounds into psychoactive THC. http://www.a1b2c3.com/drugs/mj009.htm

Also as these metabolic process take place, the plant needs energy which leads it to consume the sugars, starches, nitrates, and minerals. Many of these compounds are metabolized and released as water and carbon dioxide, therefore removing what is essentially inert material from the pot increasing the concentration of cannabinoids therefore making it more potent.

Much of these positive metabolic processes can be most effectively begun with thourough flushing and stripping of the plant before harvest. This will help reduce the amount of time necessary for a good cure.

Curing will not only improve potency, but the color and look of most cannabis buds because as the chlorophyll is broken down purple, gold, and white coloration can emerge and the trichomes will appear more pronounced.

Decarboxylation

Some decarboxylization will take place during curing as well. This happens when the carboxyl group (COOH) located at C-2, C-4, or the end of the hydrocarbon chain at C-3 is destroyed leaving a hydrogen attached and liberating CO2.

Decarboxylization is necessary to convert cannabinoids to usable psychoactive forms; the plants (and your body) carboxylize cannabinoids to make them more soluble in water (for metabolic reactions and excretion).

Research indicates that this effect is fairly minimal during the curing process though. Decarboxylization will take place naturally very rapidly at temperatures of over 100C. So smoking and most any cooking will decarboxylize the cannabinoids. As decarboxylization occurs, the loss of CO2 will liberate a small amount of inert material making the pot more potent via concentration of the cannabinoids.
http://www.420magazine.com/forums/h...58-curing-increase-potency-enhance-taste.html

THC in weed can't go up after the plant is chopped. It can only go down.
 
I don't think you understand the curing process

I don't think you understood my question.. I know how to cure.. the unseasonably dry air is screwing with it..

it wasn't totally dried out when i threw them into jars. but everytime I burped them (3-5 minutes) its like the air took the moisture out faster then it should have just in the burp.


i feel the buds.. they feel dry but if I squeeze the bud its obvisouly not totally 100% dry.. i'm just wondering if I add moisture it will help it slow it ffrom drying out faster then it should

but thanks everyone for the input.. next time i'll have to get a meter..
 
What is the RH inside the jars? If you don't know, you have no control over your cure. The hygrometers pictured in my photo above were only $5 on eBay with free shipping. They work great. If you have an extremely dry atmosphere where you live, you will want to cut those burps down to 15 seconds. just do more of them throughout the day. The folks that leave jars open 5-10 minutes are doing so in normal circumstances, say anywhere from 45-60% humidity?

I don't think you understood my question.. I know how to cure.. the unseasonably dry air is screwing with it..

it wasn't totally dried out when i threw them into jars. but everytime I burped them (3-5 minutes) its like the air took the moisture out faster then it should have just in the burp.


i feel the buds.. they feel dry but if I squeeze the bud its obvisouly not totally 100% dry.. i'm just wondering if I add moisture it will help it slow it ffrom drying out faster then it should
 
I don't think you understood my question.. I know how to cure.. the unseasonably dry air is screwing with it..

it wasn't totally dried out when i threw them into jars. but everytime I burped them (3-5 minutes) its like the air took the moisture out faster then it should have just in the burp.


i feel the buds.. they feel dry but if I squeeze the bud its obvisouly not totally 100% dry.. i'm just wondering if I add moisture it will help it slow it ffrom drying out faster then it should

but thanks everyone for the input.. next time i'll have to get a meter..

If you still have some moisture in the center, Just leave the jars closed without burping, that should let the moisture even out.
{if you don't want to buy Hygrometers}
 
How does leaving the jars closed absolve the grower from knowing the RH inside? While it is possible to cure well without them, new growers should find them valuable in controlling the curing process, instead of guessing when to open jars or simply following a routine. Routines and calendars don't work when you are talking about variables such as humidity, Real humidity and moisture content. Failing to burp jars that have a higher RH will lead to mold on the product. As I pointed out, master tobacco growers use hygrometers... it isn't a guessing game. :)
 
How does leaving the jars closed absolve the grower from knowing the RH inside? While it is possible to cure well without them, new growers should find them valuable in controlling the curing process, instead of guessing when to open jars or simply following a routine. Routines and calendars don't work when you are talking about variables such as humidity, Real humidity and moisture content. Failing to burp jars that have a higher RH will lead to mold on the product. As I pointed out, master tobacco growers use hygrometers... it isn't a guessing game. :)
see the little sentence in the paragraph? It says, if you don't want to buy hygrometers, Not everyone can afford to run out and buy them. I gave him an alternative solution to fixing his problem.
 
I slowly bring my RH down to 55% for long term storage. At that point, the cure is actually complete.... Getting my jars down to 55% RH takes a few months of burping, it doesn't happen in a week or two. I hardly think a 3% difference in our RH goals is that significant. At 55% RH, my bud maintains moisture to smoke smoothly and evenly and it doesn't smolder on when a pipe is set down. Why would you call 55% dangerous on a process that can take months to reach that level? Why is 58% not dangerous, but my goal of 55% is? Please explain.. :)

Ah, sorry buddy. I was distracted by something.

Well, I'm just saying.. from my knowledge, the cure stops at anything under the RH value of 55%. Or is that incorrect? If it is incorrect, then I apologize.. though I was only going by what I have read and learned in the whole 3.5 years of experience. If it isn't right.. the information, by all means.. please let me know and school me on that.

So again.. doesn't the cure process stop at anything under 55%?

peace.
 
How does leaving the jars closed absolve the grower from knowing the RH inside? While it is possible to cure well without them, new growers should find them valuable in controlling the curing process, instead of guessing when to open jars or simply following a routine. Routines and calendars don't work when you are talking about variables such as humidity, Real humidity and moisture content. Failing to burp jars that have a higher RH will lead to mold on the product. As I pointed out, master tobacco growers use hygrometers... it isn't a guessing game. :)

Indeed.. in fact, I look at it as being a 'fail safe' device.

'Better safe than sorry.' ;)


peace..
 
How is keeping his jars closed an alternative solution? Are you going to risk your harvest to mold for the lack of a $5 hygrometer? I would certainly hope not. :) The jars do need to be burped to allow excess moisture out. Knowing when to do it is key. Telling him to just keep his jars closed is not a solution, it is an invitation to mold.

see the little sentence in the paragraph? It says, if you don't want to buy hygrometers, Not everyone can afford to run out and buy them. I gave him an alternative solution to fixing his problem.
 
How is keeping his jars closed an alternative solution? Are you going to risk your harvest to mold for the lack of a $5 hygrometer? I would certainly hope not. :) The jars do need to be burped to allow excess moisture out. Knowing when to do it is key. Telling him to just keep his jars closed is not a solution, it is an invitation to mold.

if his shit is already overdried, How is burping them going to help?
He said it is to dry and wants to ADD moisture. Rather than doing that, leaving the jars closed will allow what moisture he does have left to even out over all the buds.
 
Once the RH has reached 55%, the cure is done, complete, no more chemical reactions taking place. It is when you reach this RH that you can store the jars long term. Curing is over and so is any danger of mold or mildew. Whether you want it to or not, at some point, your weed will be either all smoked up, or it'll reach 55% RH, unless you never open the jar, and even then, that seal won't hold forever. :) I apologize if my article wasn't clear. At 55% RH, the process is done and you can quit burping. You can quit at 58% as well, choice is the growers.... If I only had one jar and i was smoking out of it, I'd probably stop burping at 60%, because I'm going to be going in the jar anyways to pull buds.

Ah, sorry buddy. I was distracted by something.

Well, I'm just saying.. from my knowledge, the cure stops at anything under the RH value of 55%. Or is that incorrect? If it is incorrect, then I apologize.. though I was only going by what I have read and learned in the whole 3.5 years of experience. If it isn't right.. the information, by all means.. please let me know and school me on that.

So again.. doesn't the cure process stop at anything under 55%?

peace.
 
I apologize, I'm not addressing his current harvest, because by his own admission, it is already dried out. If you read my posts, I'm attempting to educate him on how to prevent it from happening again. You were not clear in your post, and it read as if your advice was to not open jars and avoid buying a hygrometer.... My advice is get at least one hygrometer and don't let this happen again. thank you for clarifying that your suggestion was meant as one tim for this specific instance only. ;)

if his shit is already overdried, How is burping them going to help?
He said it is to dry and wants to ADD moisture. Rather than doing that, leaving the jars closed will allow what moisture he does have left to even out over all the buds.
 
I apologize, I'm not addressing his current harvest, because by his own admission, it is already dried out. If you read my posts, I'm attempting to educate him on how to prevent it from happening again. You were not clear in your post, and it read as if your advice was to not open jars and avoid buying a hygrometer.... My advice is get at least one hygrometer and don't let this happen again. thank you for clarifying that your suggestion was meant as one tim for this specific instance only. ;)

exactly, I totally agree with your process and recommend he and everyone follow it, but, he needed solution for his current problem.
as as I've found out being here for awhile, Not everyone has an extra $5 for a hygrometer.
 
Back
Top