seems like your idea worked! cool colors on that one.When I hit the 6 week mark of flowering. I reduce my nutrient strength to 200 ppms and slowly taper my nutes' to plain tap on the last watering before harvest.
I was doing some trials on anthocyanin heavy strains to see if I could figure out the process of bringing out the coloring, what different nutrient formulas do for the production of the pigments. This plant was feed plain water for the final 4 weeks of flowering, and as you can see it did ok with no nutrients that final 4 weeks.View attachment 3934980
That is in a 5.5" square pot of coir.
i think people take for granted that the water you use is as important as anything else in the grow equation. i've been trying to ween myself off RO and use my well water. RO was nice in that the only thing in it is what you put in it.I grow in coco/perlite hempy pots. I've had solid success with H3ads mix of 6ml micro and 9ml bloom throughout veg and flower. I mix with 3ml of ph down and 1 gallon of tapwater. Never needed calmag or epsom salts. My ppm is about 840-860 if I remember right. Ph is generally in 5.7-5.8 range. I guess I've got something in the water that my plants use. I feel pretty fortunate that it works out good for me. I've watched people pull their hair out trying to find a good solution that works for them.
The whole reason why i use RO is because I want to know what is exactly in my nutrient profile.i think people take for granted that the water you use is as important as anything else in the grow equation. i've been trying to ween myself off RO and use my well water. RO was nice in that the only thing in it is what you put in it.
your regimen is about as simple as mine.The whole reason why i use RO is because I want to know what is exactly in my nutrient profile.
This is what I use.View attachment 3934990 for veg.
And this for flower View attachment 3934991
That's it and nothing else besides RO water
thats alot of reading,,, can u give me the lucas formula for dummies???
Could you recommend a good pk booster to cover the pk side of things?They look a little high in N. Yes, but look healthy otherwise. It would be nice to take about 35 ppm of N and distribute that out between the P&K and get rid of 60 ppm of the Cal.
I've got no choice this run to use my tapwater that's 200ppm, I want to keep my ppm low in the 500 range and not up in the high 700/800 range I'm getting now?I'd go back to the ratio in post 32. that is almost identical to H3AD except i would use all distilled water which would drop your Ca significantly. keep the 1g/gal Epsom would put your Mg back up closer to 67 target value.
as for you PK booster question, i wouldn't bother with it. i'd use the H3AD formula until the end. just as with Lucas, it is designed so you don't need any additives. get this grow done and see how they come out and on the next grow, try the PK boost and see if it makes a difference. P is more for early bloom anyway which you are past. and if i remember correctly, coco has K in it naturally.
Thanks man!if you are stuck with tap, that's what you'll have to stick with! lol. i don't think the extra Ca will make too much difference but i would stick with the 6/9 + 1g to keep the P and K and Mg levels up where they need to be.
if you can work on a RO system for your next grow, i'd go for it. then when you do H3AD, you'll be dead nuts on to what he came up with.
if i were you, i'd just keep to basics. the plants look healthy as hell, just too green, but i think the end results will be perfect. thousands of growers have used H3AD if that makes you feel better. lol.
you want a link to the original H3AD thread? i think i have it saved somewhere for when i tried coco.Thanks man!