DIY F Series Driver

I've been reading posts nonstop for days now. Trying to build my first set of grow lights for a 2'X4' space. First I was thinking cobs, then the HLG qb132 4 pack, and now I'm thinking of some samsung f series instead. The idea is to run 3 LT-FB24B in series using a HLG-320H-C2100. Does this seem like an ok setup? The reason Im going with the 3 FB24B's instead of something like 8 F562B's is because they only cost $33 but they have 4x more diodes and lumens. Does that driver seem to match with the strips? (Strips typ. is 46 V @ 2240 mA with a max of 48.4v and 3600 mA). Also would these strips require much larger heat sinks?

You should just use an HLG-320H-48A/B.you might as well just buy two extra strips though so they run less wattage and heatsinks won't need to be as bulky or needed at all.
Or if it were me, I'd build 2 2x2 fixtures using 2' strips so you can really lay a blanket of photons over your area.

Yeah Im just on fairly tight budget so these strips are the best bang for your buck, but cutting down on heatsinks might make it worth it. Do you have to put in any protection from runaway when in parallel? Also do you know why the data sheet says they have best efficacy driven the hardest? I'm guessing it's just wrong?

Not sure about the Datasheet saying that.
But in l the builds I've seen here, not once have I, or anybody for that matter that i can recall, actually seen thermal runaway ever happen.

I've been doing a lot of reading on heatsinks for f series and I'm not sure when I need them or not. Would I need them to run 3 of the FB24B using a HLG-240H-48A? One post I read said "because the strips run at only 77% of the rated current you will need no heatsinks". What about 10 of the F562B on a HLG-240H-24? Id probably put them on thin aluminum bars anyway, but what kind of heat sink would be required for each of these setups?

Mardi Grass said:

Yeah Im just on fairly tight budget so these strips are the best bang for your buck, but cutting down on heatsinks might make it worth it. Do you have to put in any protection from runaway when in parallel? Also do you know why the data sheet says they have best efficacy driven the hardest? I'm guessing it's just wrong?View attachment 4537510

Click to expand...

Hi, have you tried playing around with the samsung engine calculator? https://www.samsung.com/led/support/tools/engine-calculator/

You can input your chosen strip, CCT/CRI and configure your system for how many parallel or series strips. Adjust current, and see what figures it pumps out.

Thanks you, I hand't seen that. I've decided to run 5 of the FB22B's. They have a typical voltage of 46, so would I want to get a 48V cv driver and if so the HLG-240H-48 has a max of 5a. That would be 1a per strip, but using the engine at 1a per strip they only use 45.7v. Since its a cv driver at 48 would that be an issue? I could go up to an HLG-320 or I could just wire in series with an HLG-240H-C1050 which would give a total of 229.2v and the driver is rated up to 238 so that should be ok. Im just not sure about how the parallel wiring would work when amps are the limiting factor and the constant voltage is higher than the volt the strip would be using.

Looks like Id be getting about 2000lm more going in series since the current would be limited in the parallel driver. Id rather not go up to a 320 driver as they're a decent bit more expensive. I know LED gardener said he likes parallel with anything over 200v but 229 isn't that much over.

You seem to be failing to realize that the HLG 240/320H-48A/B has a potentiometer that can be adjusted to get your voltage exactly where you need it to be. 46.7 or whatever you were aiming for.

Airwalker16 said:

You seem to be failing to realize that the HLG 240/320H-48A/B has a potentiometer that can be adjusted to get your voltage exactly where you need it to be. 46.7 or whatever you were aiming for.

Click to expand...

The B versions of those drivers are IP67 rated. No openings on the unit for a voltage potentiometer, just has leads to attach a current dimmer.

Mardi Grass said:

Thanks you, I hand't seen that. I've decided to run 5 of the FB22B's. They have a typical voltage of 46, so would I want to get a 48V cv driver and if so the HLG-240H-48 has a max of 5a. That would be 1a per strip, but using the engine at 1a per strip they only use 45.7v. Since its a cv driver at 48 would that be an issue?

Click to expand...

It's not a problem, the voltage will be whatever it takes for the strips to draw the 5A. It'll be close to 45.7v, but will vary a little depending on junction temperature.

Airwalker16 said:

You seem to be failing to realize that the HLG 240/320H-48A/B has a potentiometer that can be adjusted to get your voltage exactly where you need it to be. 46.7 or whatever you were aiming for.

Click to expand...

Vout sets an upper voltage limit. The voltage will be whatever it takes for the strips to draw the 5A available from the driver. A higher Vout setting can't change that.

Barristan Whitebeard said:

The B versions of those drivers are IP67 rated. No openings on the unit for a voltage potentiometer, just has leads to attach a current dimmer.

Click to expand...

That's why if you're going to get Constant Voltage drivers from MeanWell, A version is the way to go so you can adjust the voltage. You just can't on B or what?

1212ham said:

Vout sets an upper voltage limit. The voltage will be whatever it takes for the strips to draw the 5A available from the driver. A higher Vout setting can't change that.

Click to expand...

So what's the point of the internal Pot?

Either way they would be running so soft at 1A/strip I might as well just drop down to 4 strips with 1.25A/strip. It would be almost the same output. Im also starting to lean toward just getting 4 HLG QB132's because they don't need heat sinks and it would be a cheaper build with even better diodes.

Or even wire 4 of them in series with an HLG 320H C1400 for more output. Not as efficient that way but its about 77% of their max current.

Mardi Grass said:

Either way they would be running so soft at 1A/strip I might as well just drop down to 4 strips with 1.25A/strip. It would be almost the same output. Im also starting to lean toward just getting 4 HLG QB132's because they don't need heat sinks and it would be a cheaper build with even better diodes.

Click to expand...

Those 4ft single row F series strips and the QB 132 V2 are both really good options.


If you decide to use 5 strips instead of 4 strips you'll get slightly better efficiency, better spread, and higher light output. That will get you a little closer to the performance of the LM301B.

192 more diodes also with the 5 strip build( 720 LM561C compared to 528 LM301B diodes on the 4x QB 132 V2 boards).

Airwalker16 said:

So what's the point of the internal Pot?

Click to expand...

Vout sets an upper voltage limit.

Barristan Whitebeard said:

Those 4ft single row F series strips and the QB 132 V2 are both really good options.


If you decide to use 5 strips instead of 4 strips you'll get slightly better efficiency, better spread, and higher light output. That will get you a little closer to the performance of the LM301B.

192 more diodes also with the 5 strip build( 720 LM561C compared to 528 LM301B diodes on the 4x QB 132 V2 boards).

Click to expand...

Yeah I like the idea of a 5 strip build, but if i go with a 240H driver it will only give 1A/strip for a total of about 4000lm at 228.5W. The QB 132 would put out 44,800lm at 240w which is more efficient, just less spread. I could go up to a 320 for the strip build at 1.34A/strip and get about 5,230lm at 312W but it would be less efficient and more expensive than the QB132 build by about $80 factoring all the heat sinks, wires, thermal paste and connectors I would need.

I think a strip build sounds a lot more fun but I don't know if it makes sense to spend more money on a less efficient system.

And unfortunately HLG doesn't have their QB132s in 3500K right now. Its either a set of 3000k or 4000k. I'm wanting it to be for full cycle growing. I know plenty of people say vegging under 3000K is fine but it seems like 3500K would be better.