DiY LEDs - How to Power Them

Discussion in 'LED and other Lighting' started by SupraSPL, Feb 22, 2014.


    DarthPlagueis Well-Known Member

    I have two drivers, specs on them are

    Model:1004p-60W (cheap Chinese driver, probably top out at around 60-100W I presume)
    Out- DC- 55v-100v (0.065-0.0665A).

    They are connected to a 12v fan at 0.3A.

    Would 50v or 36v cobs be a better fit?

    OrgrO Member

    Would a HLG-320H-C1400A adjusted down to 1050mA perform as efficiently as a HLG-240H-C1050A at 1050mA? The 240H data sheet shows an input of 2.5A / 115VAC. The 320H shows an input of 3.5 amps / 115vac. I imagine those would be at a full load? seems kind of high for the 300 watt driver, my 400w HPS draws 3.6 amps at 120 volts.

    Does an external potentiometer on an HLG B type driver function the same as the internal potentiometer of the HLB A type where dimming reduces current and increases efficiency?

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    GBAUTO Well-Known Member

    I believe they function identically and you may see a few % added efficiency. From what I've read about most drivers is that they are most efficient near rated power.
  4. What will the numbers be for? I want to run them around 50% do I achieve this byear using a dimmer switch and turning it half way down for full power?
    8- cxb3590 DB bin 36v
    2- HLG -185H-C1400B
    15*70mm pre-drilled pin heatsinks

    Snapper Member

    This driver should work fine with a CXB2540 right? Are there any better drivers that put out the same or sameish amount of current?

    TF9 Member

    Hi Can someone help me find a good driver for My COBs ?
    I have 5 x CLU048-1212C4-303M2K1 (3000k 80cri)

    I looked at a couple of drivers so far :


    • 5 COBs @ 29.8W each ?
    • 5 COBs @ 34 W ?
    • 5 COBs @ 50 W each ?

    which of these Drivers would you get ??

    Your help is much appreciated !!
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2017

    GBAUTO Well-Known Member

    My preference- use the HLG-240H-C1400B that will allow you to use an external dimmer to power it back when you don't need the penetration.

    TF9 Member

    Thank you for your response @GBAUTO !
    I' ll go with the 240H-C1400B
    NB when i drive those COBS @ 50W i think i would get around 600 Umol/s which is a nice upgrade from my Spectrabox 5 180w which emits only around 200 Umol/s
    it should work great for my 90x90cm growtent :)

    xKenya New Member

    [First Post Alert, hope this is the ideal thread for this post]

    Hello everyone!

    I am planning to drive (5x) CLU048-1212 (3000k,90CRI,36v) COB LEDs in series with a HLG-240H-C1050B Driver.

    I have limited environmental control of my garden at the moment, so I am choosing to run the COBs very softly (~38W each I believe); with plans to drive them harder in the future. The plan is to eventually drive them with 2100mA Drivers and then add some sort of dimming control. But for now, I am comfortable with a constant output (no dimming control, despite the "B" driver.) I just have a few questions that I am hoping to clarify and make sure I'm not misinterpreting the information from my sources.

    My Questions:

    1. Will the leftover Open Circuit Voltage cause any issues I am overlooking (such as popping/frying all 5 of the COBs on first power-up :D)? The driver's datasheet has 241V listed as the Max Open Circuit Voltage. So (5x) COBs @ 36V should utilize about (180/241V), should I be worried about the remaining 61V available? I believe in a series configuration, the remaining 61V just returns to the Driver from the last section of wire of the final COB terminal in the circuit.

    2. Are Wago connectors (or any Level-nut / Push-wire Wall-nut connectors) a reliable method of capping the unused Dimming leads from the Driver? For whatever reason, I'm not a fan of the twisting wire caps.

    3. Will Wago connectors be a reliable method for connecting a basic C13 (computer power) cable to the 110VAC input leads of the Driver? I plan on hiding this in a small project box. Will an 16AWG cable be suitable for 15-25Ft. of travel distance between the AC outlet and the Driver?

    Any replies are very appreciated.


    GBAUTO Well-Known Member

    xKenya, great questions.
    1. As I understand how the driver works-on a constant current type it will apply voltage to the output circuit until the current level is at the set amount. As long as the string voltage is is the current control voltage spec range(which you are) then it will work.
    2. That should be a suitable termination-you just want to insulate the wires from shorting to anything else.
    3. Remember that the input AC current is quite low- 2A for a 120v input on that driver so a heavy gauge conductor is overkill. A 18ga conductor is rated for 14A so I'd use anything over 22ga for the driver supply-just make sure that it has suitable insulation for the voltage you have.
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2017

    TF9 Member

    @Xkenia Nice to see someone going for a very similar setup with those 5x Citizen1212 :clap:
    When are you planning to get the build done ?
    Is it possible to take some pictures during the construction of your build ?

    It would be much appreciated !

    Cheers , TF9

    swiftkillpapa Well-Known Member

    I see we have people answering questions and I got one. I'm wiring in series 42 cree xpg 5 watt with 2 ir 5w and 2 uv 3w on a HLG-185H-C700B. Now that's running everything at a pretty maxed out wattage. I think if I did the math it was 4.6 watts each.
    I want to throw a small low wattage citizen the clu038 1206. It's rating is about 58 watts.
    Is there a problem with throwing both the 3 watt and the citizens in series to soak up some wattage? Or is they're a fundamental piece of circuitry I'm not understanding? thanks guys.

    TF9 Member

    Hi @swiftkillpapa
    From what i've read its not good idea to connect different types of LEDs to 1 driver, all leds connected to your LED-driver should have the exact same specifications.
    If you want to throw in other sorts you should get an extra led-driver.

    But that's just my 2 cents, lets wait for some more input :bigjoint:

    Gr, TF9
    swiftkillpapa and The Dawg like this.

    Isawthelight Active Member

    Hi @swiftkillpapa
    I hope you have not 'painted yourself into a corner' by purchasing all these parts. Tell us about your goals and someone might point you towards an easier and possibly better and cheaper option. Please show your math.... I'll show some approximath... This series combo would use approximately 120 Watts

    42 XPG3 at 0.7Amps eats up about 126 Volts and about 88 Watts. Power (W) = Volts (V) * Current (A)
    clu038 1206 at 0.7A eats up about 35 Volts and about 25 Watts
    2 IR 5W diodes might consume 7 Volts and 6 Watts.
    2 UV 3w diodes 6 Volts and 6 watts

    You still have about 94 Volts and 64 Watt capability left unused in that LED & driver parts list yor .

    About putting all those different diodes in series.... All those in series will light up with a current of 700 milliamps. That driver can put out more than 700ma if the dimmer leads are not used = could burn your UV LEDs ( Put those two UV LEDs in parallel with each other so they run at a safe 350mA) You might have problems if you use the dimming option to reduce all LED current.... some LEDs families will stop emitting light while others are still bright.

    KonopCh Well-Known Member

    I will run 4x Vero 29 B (3000K, 90 CRI) at 1050 mA with ELG-240-1050A. I have around 25V space for ... I don't know, far red maybe? Can you guys give me advice which ones and how to wire them on driver with Vero's?

    swiftkillpapa Well-Known Member

    I'll get you a not elaborate picture and explanation but at the moment here's the short. We're doing a 16"x72" custom table. 2 tier and I'm trying to do 6 3"x14" heat sinks. Each heat sink will have 7 xpg (not 3) so 7x6 is my 42 with uv and ir thrown in to add. These are for flower only. Using hlg185h c700 i was hoping to wire enough to not strain the leds. I'm trying to write before i forget to. Any other things I need to explain better?
    Adding to it would I just be better to do a 100w driver instead with all the xpg instead?
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2017

    GBAUTO Well-Known Member

    Add up the forward voltage requirement for each of the diode you use and see if the driver can operate at that voltage. One other thing is make sure that each of the types of diodes you use can handle the same amount of forward current(700mA) in your example.

    Isawthelight Active Member

    Have you spent the money on parts yet?? I hope not. Kits take all or most of the worry out of lighting your personal space. I'd rather point you to the kit people.
    We are talking about flowering spectrum lighting for eight square feet ((16"*72")/144'''') and I think you need about 25 watts of LED power per square foot of personal space. 8"" * 25 watts so a 200 watt driver is about what you need.

    swiftkillpapa Well-Known Member

    We did because the cost value. I've built a clu048 kit from northern grow lights. The problem is coverage bc we're only dealing with 1.5 ft of clearance. This is a very low pro grow and I was afraid of having to buy a shit ton of cobs to cover. I'm building it for a friend so I may have fucked up for him. He uses those China led from Amazon so I thought to expand that and do a super low profile even spread. I loved my cob build but I just thought this would need a different type. Plus it's all off eBay so the price was right. We're only doing one quarter of the room so I could do the other parts different if this sucks

    swiftkillpapa Well-Known Member

    Does excess wattage left over blow the led? Like say I have led that use 80 watts but the driver pushes 100 watts. Will that be a problem?
    pop22 likes this.

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