Diy with arrow

Heatsinks are a cost that's hard to get past, I been thinking of these from heatsink online.com $10 each for 2" thick, $5 an inch. For my 12 cxb3590. I wanna run em no higher than 50 watts each. I'll add the plugs myself with scrap stock

Put together some more strips last night. I have 5 of these 4' bars now each have 6, h Influx 3000k 80 CRI, 88 diode lm301b. And I made one that's 2' long with 3 strips, I will be making one more 2' bar and that will be all 36 of my strips. So 3168 diodes powered by 2 lrs 350-24. The heatsink is 1.5" aluminum angle bar .125" thick 8' long cut in half then bolted together to make like a T. 3 strips fit very nicely this way.

Now I need to figure out how to cool my cobs affordably, Ive been contemplating liquid cooling it'll be cheaper in the long run, for me cuz I have some of the required parts already. 12 cxb3590, 3 Vero 29 se, and a couple cmu 2287. I'd like to use 2 4' long aluminum square tubes with 6, 3590's on each.

Jonesfamily7715 said:

Now I need to figure out how to cool my cobs affordably, Ive been contemplating liquid cooling it'll be cheaper in the long run, for me cuz I have some of the required parts already. 12 cxb3590, 3 Vero 29 se, and a couple cmu 2287. I'd like to use 2 4' long aluminum square tubes with 6, 3590's on each.

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What wattage are you thinking about? Can you drill and tap or only drill and screws and nuts?

If you can tap then theres a nice way to do it with alu square profile if you can find it wide enough and at least 3mm thick: open a hole in the profile for a fan and push air thru the profile for air cooling. Not sure where it would stand as to how many watts per cob though.

Rocket Soul said:

What wattage are you thinking about? Can you drill and tap or only drill and screws and nuts?

If you can tap then theres a nice way to do it with alu square profile if you can find it wide enough and at least 3mm thick: open a hole in the profile for a fan and push air thru the profile for air cooling. Not sure where it would stand as to how many watts per cob though.

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On the 3590's I'm gonna run that Lrs 600 so no more than 50 watts per cob, definitely no more than that. I have drills, taps, and scrap aluminum like crazy.i have seen something like that before I bet that would work especially if I could put one of these aluminum angle bars thru the middle of the square tubing for more surface area for the airflow.

Here is an edge cooled water block plate idea I came up with. Should work for COBS, and probably overkill for 15w SILs. Basically, you just cut a flat bar thats1.5, 2" wide, etc) up into as many little sections as you need, and then weld aluminum or copper pipe to the sides of the plates, using alumaweld brazing rods + torch, unless you have an aluminum welder/spool gun.. You could make them smaller individual single water blocks too, so you can save even more on cost, by connecting them with soft tubing. Or, make the longer ladder rails, which have better heat transfer coming from both sides, and also becomes more rigid and act as a solid frame for mounting like bars.

This kind of rectangular aluminum tubing would make the best liquid cooled bar light water blocks, IMO.

Cap the ends off, and then drill and tap your holes for plumbing fittings to screw into, one on each end.

Drop That Sound said:

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This kind of rectangular aluminum tubing would make the best liquid cooled bar light water blocks, IMO.

Cap the ends off, and then drill and tap your holes for plumbing fittings to screw into, one on each end.

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I was thinking of square or rectangular aluminum bar like this I have some 2' long 1" square tubes already made up with barbed ends. Not quite big enough. I'm probably gonna break down and by an 8' long bar and chop it in half so I'll have 2, 4' long bars.

I also have a couple of them Amazon water blocks for cooling a pc 40mm x 40mm I seen a YouTube video of someone cooling eBay cobs with em. Those cobs fucking suck even liquid cooled. But anyways not a bad idea for cooling, except you gotta figure a way to hold on to each one. A long tube will be much easier and neater. Maybe I could break out my diy smelting furnace and make a mold with copper tubing thru the inards

I wonder if this can cool 600w it holds 3 120mm fans

All the peeps ive seen doing water cooled leds here ended up feeling that it was overkill or just that it wasnt fully worth the effort and risk (water flowing on top of your leds). Chilled started out that way then abandoned for their second gen boards.

This type is a good high watt heatsink, you could stack them in a line and push air thru it and then have the hot air ducted to anywhere youd need the heat.

Rocket Soul said:

This type is a good high watt heatsink, you could stack them in a line and push air thru it and then have the hot air ducted to anywhere youd need the heat.

RG07086/120FR

RG07086-120FR

www.poweralia.com

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Hells yeah lil pricey tho but good idea nonetheless

Rocket Soul said:

All the peeps ive seen doing water cooled leds here ended up feeling that it was overkill or just that it wasnt fully worth the effort and risk (water flowing on top of your leds). Chilled started out that way then abandoned for their second gen boards.

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That's how I felt last time.

Jonesfamily7715 said:

I wonder if this can cool 600w it holds 3 120mm fans

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Pretty sure the rule of thumb is that each 120mm radiator or section is good for around 100w.

Jonesfamily7715 said:

Hells yeah lil pricey tho but good idea nonetheless

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Depends on how many watts youre dealing with but for one cob youd have to be up over a 150w for it to pay off reasonably. Point was more with regards to watercooling which is usually only done when theres high watts

Might as well plumb the LRS-600 psu while your at it!

Drop That Sound said:

Pretty sure the rule of thumb is that each 120mm radiator or section is good for around 100w.

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One easily cools my strip light at over 150w. I use it to limit air temp in the tent.

Drop That Sound said:

View attachment 5399373 View attachment 5399374

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Watercooling drivers is a really good idea. They heat the space much more than one would think and wit water cooling it should be fairly possible to keep them under ambient temps. Also much more feasible to have all drivers in the same place for setting up multiple drivers on the same water circuit, then just send thru to our vegg space for heating. Bookmarked here to come back later

I could run my whole shop on one of these 10kw models gotta have a 3 phase service to run it though. And a spare $2000. https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/MEAN-WELL/SHP-10K-380?qs=vvQtp7zwQdOR6EQm3HXBvQ==