Dual Areoponic Cabinet Build

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cruzer101

Well-Known Member

Dual Cabinet Build
Stealth grow.
Journal on the grow here:
https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/210479-dual-areoponic-cabinet-ceramic-metal.html

Tessco 48" by 24" for aeroponic flowering cabinet







First I built the window box for the exhaust and got a better idea how I am going to run it.​

You see, this flower cabinet is about 4 inches taller then the window opening. I extended the box frame to
accommodate it. That old piece of plywood you see through the window was my old idea of stealth. lol​

Heres some pics.​


I found a sheet of plywood and cut the sides, Notched them at the top​


I have a second cabinet to vent so I cut a notch for one of those space saving dryer vent ducts.​


Then the back was two piece, I need to align the cabinet and drill the four inch holes so I figure
to get them straight I will try and drill it at the same time then move the cabinet to mount the flanges.​


Then to make it stealth from the outside view I put the blinds back up and angled them down.​


Then used duct tape and weather stripping to seal it up.​





OK, got the box done, Now from outside it is stealth.
Here is a shot of the fan I got. It will be mounted inside flower cab at top dead center.​


It says its 80 cfm but it feels like a whole lot more. Only 4 inches tall. I needed some way to attach
it so I got a sleeve and a PVC reducer from 4 to 3 inches and a flange from a reflector.​



Next is to cut the hole in the floor for the intake. Thing is, I am not sure where the floor Joice's are.
I think they are 24" on center. The duct tape on the right should be where the joice is.​




Finished off the intake vent with a vent cover. I had one laying around.. can you believe that? Weird, I found it in the garage.​


I lowered the bottom shelf, I used some sticks to brace the new height and cut the vents in the shelves for ventalation​

Now I know why they said it took two people to assemble. I did it myself though, just took my time. Followed the directions for once.
I still had a bunch of screws left over.​


I decided just to use more of that strapping tape to support the fan. The fan, its really pretty light.​

Here is what I got for my DIY Cooltube.​



Got the Bake around Pyrex tube on ebay and built this a while back put didn't get pics. So, if you want to build one this is how. You get a socket and some strapping tape. some clamps, attach a 4 inch duct fan to one end and a 4 inch collar to the other. (yea, I cleaned it)​

So now we need to vent the tube.​


I use those space saving dryer duct vents, Intake comes from under the cabinet then through the tube and out the back into the window box. Cant see a thing. I use cardboard from the cabinet packaging to attach the mylar.​

I now have the thermostat wired up and the ventilation done.​


OK time for a break.​

Is it just me or do you hear "Danger Will Robinson!"​

Today I was trying to decide what way to go, I had planed on the waterfarm or 4" PVC setup. I couldn't figure out how to drain the tubes properly. I have seen other DIY setups like stink buds but I think the drain is too small. look at the roots earls setup.​

So then I got to thinking about all the hydroton I would need, cleaning it out and all that. I really don't want to hassle with that. So, I am building sort of an over sized aero cloner.​

I got a rubber maid underbed storage container, some PVC and micro sprinklers. Luckily I have a few pumps to chose from. 180 gal 250 gal 550 gal and a pond pump that puts out more and is smaller but it is too loud.​

The 180 gal didn't even get any air. It would work for drippers but not these.​

Here is the 250 gph at two feet in height.​


Here is the 550 gph.​


The sound the pump makes is about the same. This pump is larger in size but I think this is the way to go.
I can always drop to the smaller pump once I get some roots.​

Time to get the tub ready..​

Ok, here we go. I am going to try aeroponics now. I am tired of dealing with hydroton. I havent tried it in the past because I dont want to haul all that dam water but I think I figured out a way I can do it without using a large res.​

First I start with a rubbermaid under the bed storage container.​








I cut holes for 2 inch net pots​


This way I can open one side at a time.​


Sorry Pics are kinda bulry, I used 1/2 in pvc to make the frame and I got eight full spray sprinlkers on the center tubes. I will probally add more to the out side but I am going to start with this.​


I put it in with the jets pointing down.​






The jets are one inch away from eight of the pots. the two center pots will be ok after I get a few roots. I may need to move them around a bit when they are small.​





Then put the fill line through the hole.​





Here is a shot from inside.​


Cool huh?​

Here is the new Cycle timer I got today. $100 shipped to my door. Got here fast too.​


Tomorrow I will drill holes for the two drains. I sketched out my plan in Microsoft paint.​




I am going to try this with a five gallon res. I know it should be three times that size but I carry the bottles.
If I keep an eye on it and I usually do, hopefully I will be able to keep it under 10 gal a week.
Where I think I am going to have a problem is with temptature of the water. From what I have read 65° is ideal.
Even with the intake right by the res I think I am going to be in the 70's​

Man I hope this works.​







OK I got the drain supply's Two bathroom sink drains. they are 1 1/4 size.
The deal is there is no tubbing or elbows I could find that would work with them. But I found a reducer fitting that attachés 1 1/2 PVC to 1 1/4 drain.​


see the one on the left?​


Thats the key. Once I get to 1 1/2 there is all kinds of fittings. OK, time to get to work.​





OK I got the drain supply's Two bathroom sink drains. they are 1 1/4 size.
The deal is there is no tubbing or elbows I could find that would work with them. But I found a reducer fitting that attachés 1 1/2 PVC to 1 1/4 drain.​


see the one on the left?



Thats the key. Once I get to 1 1/2 there is all kinds of fittings. OK, time to get to work.

OK First thing is to cut the rear wheels off. By leaving the front ones on it will tilt it back for better drainage.








Cut the holes for the drains.




Lined it up and cut the hole in the shelf too






The drains I got are to be installed in a thicker material like a sink maybe?
Anyway the rubber washer will have to be messed with. I used my dremel tool to grind the rubber to get them to fit.
(The one on the left is done.)





Got some silicon for the lip and got the drains installed in the tub and cut the holes in the shelf.
Wrapped the tub with duct tape and set it in.



Next I got some cardboard left over from the cabinet shipment and use it to help block the light.
I cut it to fit up under the lip at the top.





Then got under there and hooked it up. Well all except the last section.




I tested it before mounting and there were no leaks. so far so good. the right side is slightly higher then the left for better drainage. I glued the joints between the extenders but I didn't glue the PVC inside the tub because it didn't leak and if it does it is inside anyway. besides I can twist the center tubes and angle the spray this way.

OK done for today.

Heres what I got done today,

First I covered the rest of the tub so no light gets in. I used this spray glue to attach the mylar.





and covered the front with more cardboard.



This will be the timer rack





OK now the res.
I have a water farm eight pack I am not using right now. In the set is what they call a controller. I have
already modified the 8 pack so there were extra holes already drilled in it. I was going to try and plug them up but instead I took advantage of the holes.

This will be the front, the blue tube is my water level monitor/drain



Heres the opposite side. those lower holes were already there so I connected them and inside added a power head so this will mix the water.




here is inside




You see the air stone is under where the water comes back into the res. between the wall and the main pump.

Here is a better shot.




the power head pumps the water from the other side of the res, out and back through the wall, the water shoots through the bubbles and in the pump.

Then when its time for a res change I twist the water indicator and drain the res.




gets most of it





I was thinking maybe I could chill that line outside the res. I looked at chillers. they are kinda of expensive and draw too much power for me. Like 280 watts. I gotta think of some other way to cool the water and this just may be a start. I have one of those small coolers you plug into your cigarette lighter and keeps food cold without ice. Maybe I can get a converter and poke some holes? I wonder if that would work. You think someone would have thought of it already.

OK, well tomorrow the electrical.

Hi people,

I got the electrical done today, I wired up the tube with new cord so it will go into my new ballast. Oh I forgot to mention I got a new Hydro farm ballast today. My old setup was hardwired so I needed to install the hydro farm lamp cord. I got a new 15 foot heavy duty cord for the duct fan too. It really didn't need it but I wanted the weight the same on both sides to keep the light level. I hooked it all up to timers and stuff. i still need to clean it up. hydro system went through a 4 hour test run, No leaks. Weird thing though, the new ceramic metal halide bulb felt cooler when I tested it in the old cab. I ran the lights with the fans and it only went up 3° though. That's much better then before. i was hitting 10 to 15° hotter then room temp with HPS and the old fans.

Duh, I should have compared it with outside temps. I did that test last night.
So, I did it again today. It is 70 outside and temps were 79° thats more accurate.

However I am getting more lumen's than before. The meter I bought used on ebay when I was testing LED lighting. It only goes up to 2000 foot candles or lumen's. At 19 inches away before I got about 1200 lm. now at 20 inches I get 1800. Go figure, I guess the old bulb I had was pretty much shot.






I have eight sprinklers in there now. I got what was available, I will replace them with the green jets when I can. Maybe add more to the outside tubes too.





Here is the new ballast, It is twice as tall as I thought it would be. oops.








For a reflector I took one of those oven liners I had and cut it. Then formed it around the top of the tube and clipped on the wings I had with strapping tape. Here is what we got so far.




So now I have 48" by 24" flower area compared to 36" by 18" I will be using the same amount of power, the 400 watts. I realize I will have about 6 inches on both ends that will be shy a bit the meter measured 1300 so I think will add some side lighting, maybe a couple of cfl's or a of par 30 red led spotlights on each side. I dont know if the LED will make much difference, I can always just screw in a different bulb.

I let the system go for a couple days and I kept seeing water on the lower shelf. I pulled it out and set it on the table and ran it no leaks but after a while I had water. I finally figured it out. The res was sweating on the bottom. Building up condensation and lt seeped out the bottom edge.



Well I fixed that by razing the res so air could flow under it. so far so good. I got the side lighting in, didn't use the LED I used CFL's



Now it is time for the last test. I have my growing medium, Rapid rooter cubes set in the net pots. They are not getting direct spray, I want to see if the humidity alone will keep them damp enough.



They were a little small so I cut some foam to hold them in at first.
I got some neoprene collars for when I get some clones but this will be starting from seed this first grow.




and plug them in.






Got all the timers installed where I can get to them this time.




I got the 400w and the duct fan on the hydro farm timer, the CFL's, CO2 and res mixer pump on the other. I still have to refill the CO2 but I wont need it for a while yet.

The next thing I am tweaking on in a diy chiller to keep the water cold in the res this summer. Most chillers I have found have been larger then I need so this is what I have in mind.



Portable cooler. I got this on ebay for $30 Its 12v DC says it will keep temps 40° lower then ambient temps. I found a 5.8 amp DC converter for $15 shipped. I read that to figure wattage you multiply amps by volts. That means this will only use 60 watts. I can use it with the pump that circulates the res water. I think I should fill the cooler with water or something to conduct better than air, any ideas?

OK, Pretty much done,
I have almost doubled my space, cut the noise in half, (to about the sound of a fridge) eliminated hydroton and Rockwool.
With the window box my neighbor only sees the blinds. I have a fresh supply of air from under the house where I don’t think those spider mites would be and an 80 CFM exhaust directly above supplying the underside of the leaf with fresh air, 110 CFM Duct fan for the light. I have CO2 supplement I will run Once they hit the screen. A new Ceramic Metal Halide 400w light and new Hydrofarm Ballast. Four CFL's and the Custom Aerotub Hydroponic system.

Oh, and everything is grounded this time.

Yahoo!
Lets Grow!

Couple days ago I checked out those Widow buds from the last grow, found the one that had a few seeds.



I had five that looked good but I soaked them all overnight. next day tapped them and six sank.




I put them all in a paper towel kept them warm and in two days pop! We got five.





I split the rooter cube and put them in with the root tip pointing down.

>



In one empty cube I placed the temp probe. that registers the out temp on the thermometer







Got out the seedling heat map and plugged it into the second daytime timer I have the CFL's and res circulating pump on.
I actually run that at night to keep them warm.






I want the root zone between 80 and 84° and upper temp about 75°



I don't have a thermostat for the heat map, too cheap I guess. I use sticks under the pan to raise it



Im going to hand water them while they are young.
By putting them in the tray I can control moisture better.

These are the seeds that didn't’t pop right away.




I put water on them and will give them a couple more days.
But if they don’t pop I have backup.


I Have these feminized Train wreck from my last order.






I also have five Mazar seeds that would need to be sexed.
So either way this first crop will have females and flower out. Then I will plug in there clones for a second round.

Once I get the hang of this system, I will get some awesome genetics and grow a mother or two.

White widow 2 days old.

I checked the other seeds and found one that sprouted so I put it in the cube.
Now we got six. They are late, just like women.​

Come on baby, I need one more from this batch.​

I started the Train wreck last night,
In a couple hours all five dropped to the bottom of the shot glass so they are
in towels now.​

I figure since a female lightly hemmed and pollinated itself or another female I got female seeds.
So, I decided against the Mazar and went with the fem train wreck.​


Temps are rising...​

I Started the Train Wreck couple nights ago. Here they are at 48 hours. Fast huh.​


All five on top are them. The lower are the widow. Couple more days and I toss them.​


So I put them in cubes last night about 1/4 down from the hole and covered the hole.​



I thought it was time for more light.
I figured why run 400w from 3 feet away when I got the T5 HO I can run close at 100w​


24 Hours later...​




I don't think they will have any trouble catching up with there sisters.​

OK Here are the results of my DIY water chiller.​

I tried the portable cooler. Low wattage thermal electric cooler.​


I ran seven loops of tube inside and back to the res.​


I realize this is with no insulation and I probably could get better hose but I wanted to see what it would do.
The water in the cooler got cold but the res? It got maybe 2 degrees cooler.​

I searched the web and found a diy where a guy used a compact refer. I went on Craigslist and got one for $50 After I got the new small refer home I realized it was different then the DIY I had read. The evaporator
coils or grid was not on the back. I figured it was just inside the back panel.​

I disconnected the thermostat​


Then used my disk grinder to cut because I didn't have a cutting blade.​


Then basically peeled back the case to find the coils were ran around the fridge.
(looks blue because I am under a blue canopy)​


I looked at it and thought "how the hell am I going to get this to work" I went this far, Might as well finish.​


After cutting a hole for the cooling unit I slid everything out the front and left the system intact.​


Then lost my shade so I took a break until sundown. It was 97 degrees.​

Next I took the res and set it inside the system and carefully bent the cooling tray inside.
It was still about 93 degrees outside but no direct sun.​


Here is the back​


I let it run with the thermostat set in the middle for about an hour.​

It cooled about 4 degrees. The thermostat was under water and I didn't know if that made any difference but
I drained about a gallon of water so it set in the air. Then I realized I didn't have anything to compare it to so I
got a home depot bucket and filled it with water too. I set a thermometer it that as well.
I turned the thermostat all the way up, kept the circulating pump on and left them until noon today.​

Todays outside temps are 101 degrees.
Here is the uncovered bucket of water temp 84 degrees​




I really didn't think this was going to work, well I looked inside,​



Then checked the temp. 58 degrees.​


AWESOME! 26 degrees cooler without any insulation!
I am circulating the res with a small 180 gpm pump.​

Now that is worth working with. Now I need to figure out out to insulate it.
I am thinking about sandwiching the coils between Styrofoam and venting the compressor somehow in the cabinet. It is a sealed system so I cant extend the tube to the cooling unit and set it outside the cabinet. Unless I cut a 4x8 inch hole in the side of the cabinet to fit the cooling unit through and then it is not very stealth.​

But for those of you who have a grow room this will work well.
My guess would be in say a 10x10 room you may see a 5 degree increase in ambient temps.
But in my 2x4 cabinet with 2 foot height in the bottom I am afraid It will be more like 15 to 20 degrees.​

I guess there is only one way to find out...​


Week 2 pics of the kids.​






They are all caught up.​

I tried the cooler and res in the cab... nope It got to hot. I need a seperate cabinet for both the res and the cooler. I have a cabinet that I grew in that had spide mites in it.​

I bombed the old cab with the Black Flag.​



Man, That thing has so many holes its like swiss cheese. I removed two shelves, cut
five 4 in holes and two one inch holes in the back. Cut four one inch holes in the shelves,
a 2x8 in hole and a large 16x20 hole in the bottom shelf and a small 2x4 in hole in the top.
13 holes and 2 shelves. LOL​

I got three in the pack. I got one on the lower shelf and one on the upper shelf.​



Here she is smokin away...​


I closed the doors when I saw the smoke fading out. I figure I will
wipe it down with water and bleach in a couple hours.​

That ought to kill them​

I am almost there. Got some holes cut and the plumbing in.
Drain works fine but I got a leak on the fill line.​


Looks like it will all fit. The lower shelf is just the right height and I got like 4 inches to spare in width.
I figure I can make like a garage with styrofoam and enclose the coils.​

OK got it done.​

There is 4 layers of 1/2 with foil back insulation and an extra 1 inch in the center separating
the coils and the res. One layer of 1/2 in goes up to the bottom of the upper shelf to
divide the two areas.​


I wrapped the res in that foil bubble insulation. For now I will let it vent up. I plan on venting
the lower section next to the compressor and using the shelf above as a cloning area.
The top is for veg or mothers. I not sure yet.​



After the first 12 hours of testing at the max I had the res at 42 degrees. space around the res was 69 degees.
The right section with the coils was 96 degrees. This was with an room temp of 85°​


Yep thats cold enough alright. Now I turned the thermostat down and I am running the pumps.​


The water is distilled. Thats five gallons. I added 2 more but thats the max for this res.​

So here is what I got.​



Once it is running I think I will have two mothers in the upper right cabinet in hydroton, clones lower
right in bubbler, flower upper left aeroponic and drying rack lower left.​



Turns out, it is quieter then I thought. I am happy with it.
Now lets see what I can do with it.


Follow this link to see the grow journal:
https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/210479-dual-areoponic-cabinet-ceramic-metal.html

Thanks


 

Mattplusness

Well-Known Member
That shit looks amazing man, looks like you're doing everything right. Keep it up, can't wait to see how this does!
 

cruzer101

Well-Known Member
Thanks a lot guys,

I put a lot of thought into this and hope like hell it works.
My Journal will be updated at least a couple times a week with pics.

So Check it out, pull up a chair and learn aeroponics with me.
I could use any tips ya got.


see you there.
 

cruzer101

Well-Known Member
how much did all that cost?
Well lets see,

The Cabinet I bought on line for 389.00
ballast was $150
Bulb was $80
panasonic whisper fan was $80
duct booster was $25
ducting was $30
tub was $13
drain fittings $35
fill fittings $8
the sunblaze T5 HO was $169 (i think, I have had it for a while)
cool tube parts were like $30
250gph water pump was $35
the res was part of a waterfarm 8 grow pack I got the whole thing for $120 on ebay but you could get anything for a res.
4 inch hole saw $20
1 in hole saw $8
caulking $2
2 in net pots $18 (I bought 20 of them)
neoprene collars $9 ebay again
Mylar I had left over but a 25 foot roll will run you about $25
duct tape $5
strapping tape $2
1/2 PVC and fittings $20
sprinkler heads $6
Hygrometer $20

That all I can think of thats in the big cab.
I had to buy the cabinet, ballast, bulb and fan. I had the rest from previous grow supplies. besides the dorm refer.

I also have a CO2 tank and regulator I plan to use that cost me $80
Cant forget the nutrients, about $60 for the entire grow.
My power bill will go up about $15 as soon as I turn on the 400w.


So it wasn't cheap but for what I have, I am good with it.
I did ok with just the small cab in the past.

This is gonna ROCK!
My guess, If I can get the perpetual thing going on again...
about 7 to 9 oz dried and cured every other month.
 

Earl

Well-Known Member
Nice job documenting your project.

My only concern is the material from your chiller coming into contact with nutrient solution.
I assume the heat exchanger is made of aluminum.
I'm not sure it will last very long
before there is corrosion caused by the salt in the nutes.
It may work long enough for your purposes,
time will tell.
Great job.
 

cruzer101

Well-Known Member
Thanks Earl,

That's the reason I asked you to take a look. You look at the big picture.
I hadn't considered corrosion. Turns out the cooing tray I put in the res is coated.
I looked close and dig my fingernail into it. It feels like some kind of rubber coating.

Now you got me thinking if that would be harmful at some point. I think I am OK, after all it was made
to store food. But I would sure like to know. Well, like you said. Time will tell.

.
 

budsmoker706

Active Member
The coating will probly do the job of preventing corrosion.
That is a sweet setup you have there. I like all the planning and detail that went into it. I would love to get my hands on something like that once i get alittle more cash flow going. I will keep checking your thread.

Thanks again for the help
 

cruzer101

Well-Known Member
Hey,

No problem smoker.

Yea, this hobbie can be costly but there are always ways to cut corners.
Good luck to you and Check out the journal. Looks like its going to do well.
 

ExileOnMainStreet

Well-Known Member
Hey, good thread - thanks for posting it.

Thats the key. Once I get to 1 1/2 there is all kinds of fittings.
There's a fitting made specifically to transition from a 1 1/4" tailpiece (the metal part that attaches to the drain) to various sizes of glue-in pipe (including 1 1/2").

If you say that sentence to someone in a building supply or plumbing shop, they'll give you what you need. It's only a couple bucks and it's abs (not PVC) but there's a special glue ("transition cement") that's compatible with both. Normal PVC cement doesn't work on ABS and vice versa.

Doesn't help you much this time round though.....
 

cruzer101

Well-Known Member
Thanks guys,

Hey Exile, thats some good info. I had a hell of a time.
You see, I know the roots are going to end up in the drain at some time and I will need to take it apart.
So, I wasn't thinking glue but that would be useful for permanent applications. Maybe someone else can use it.

Thanks for the imput.
.
 

lilmafia513

Well-Known Member
cruzer,
I wasn't surprised at your newest creation being so bad ass! That is amazing what you did with the refrig., i would never thought of that. On my way to the journal now....
 
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