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woodsmantoker said:

Disability trial run with Scrog Technologies 3x3' trellising system prototype. (Patients first grow).

Woodsmantoker

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Looks good! @dogenzengi I think the wheels are set up so you wont have to lean on it to get to the back, it seems that its low enough to manage and would be in a room with space to move. One thing though.. I do lean on mine a lot also getting to the waaay back... its a pain but My baby is MASSIVE

Hehe, brother the wheels would be your saving grace my friend. You may be surprized at how well the design exploits physics. You cant tip it over. As for the tent, the wheels allow the whole unit to pull out for maintenence. The mobility is key. This unit can be completely managed from a wheel chair. No bending, no leaning. Those are precisely the types of things we are eliminating here.

(And they are prototypes. Production models will be one peice construction bases. The idea in the pvc unit however is limiting nessisary parts and fittings. (Ie lower cost)

Care to learn more about em? I am looking for individuals willing to test the concepts.

Woodsmantoker

Massive is also something were learning is not nessisarily the ticket. Your restrictions come by way of other various controls but specifically lighting and footprint. For years we were working on filling the footprint with as few plants as possible and hence was the birth of the single plant unit. After testing various sizes with different numbers of plants over the years, it started to appear that 4 plants under a standard 1000, more easily produced "max potential" for the given light, than one plant filling that same space. Of course for some, this simply is not an option and single plant units at 5x5 work well. Four 3x3's however can pull 8oz each and if rotated daily (per the castors), they maintain an even cannopy and can be managed as needed.. (4plants, 8 ounces each, that's two pounds per one 1000 watt light.)

Dogenzengi said:

Is that a flood and drain system??
Looks very nice, plant and planter!

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Nope, just an organic mix in a bucket designed for hydro aps. (Shows the versitility a bit.). The perlite is there to wick overflow and provide a barrier for keeping pest away from the drain holes.

Thanks for kind words brother!

Woodsmantoker

Thanks for the compliments gents

Woodsmantoker

Hey scroggers this is my first time at trying this and I need a little help. Im getting ready to manicure a couple funky looking leaves and i was wondering, if I should trim all of the complete lower foliage before I switch to 12-12 to start flowering. The first two pictures are of the tops and the next two are of the lower foliage that I have a question about.

Fatalack, welcome pal.

I suspect you funny leaf, is a plant problem (something off) and signals problems to come. I see little foliage as is, and suspect you will be far happier with your results if you correct the issues before flowering. Give ample time to recover. At that point the plants will havr had more time to fill the little canopy and yeild will be respective. Sorry I don't do plant problems with folks (see other sections of RIU for related topics/threads). Foliage removal is contraversial subject, however during plant manipulation techniques such as scrog, our manipulation draws from the plants ability to resist various complications that are naturally alleviated for the most part by the evolutionarily developed structure. Since we manipulate that structure, and attempt to meet our own ideals (work/water space below cannopy) removal is some what cosmetic as well as benificial. Our early scrog guides and 101 tutorials most all suggest that shaded lower leaves gives reason for removal. Though in part true, the various other reasons may be more what we are after rather than actually meeting the plants "needs". As I suspect you are aware, leaves are how the plant (at large) converts light /energy via the process of photosynthesis. Each leaf is a solar panel if you will, and is a unit of potential. Rule of thumb. If you were sitting on that leaf looking up, could you see the light bulb? If not, consider what indirect light it may be recieving and make your call. I suspect you won't need to remove anything for some time.

Fill those cannopys folks, then as it becomes dense, you will see lower foliage suffer from lack of light. At that point its job is done. If you were to wait until the cannopy was completely full before you removed anything, I suspect you would still be just fine. Keep in mind the problems compact veggitation can have and make accomidations in order to avoid issues. (Ie air movement). A week before flowering or so, consider removal. The size of the cannopy can play a role here however. If light gets around your cannopy there is less need.

Ps. Constructive criticism is not always easy new for new growers. Be not discouraged. This is "advanced" cultivation meaning there were steps taken before getting here. If you are new to cultivation its somewhat like learning to ride a bike before learning to walk. You can do it and both are quite simple but typically learning ballance (walking) first, assures success when attempting to ride. Do it how ya wish friends, just consider mistakes and faliures as the lessons you choose to learn first. Its all education. I dig crash courses too.

Enjoy!
Woodsmantoker

My first exposure to cannabis cultivation was in the deep south where plants were grown flat against the ground by being tied to fence that was laid flat. They were keeping the cannapy low and out of sight. (Also learned of "airlayering" as a result when branches got covered and rooted where they touched earth.) Its not a bad place to start. You just find yourself saying "oh that's why" allong the way.

Awesome thanks for the great advice, I couldn't have asked for more.

Scroggers United,

Its pic party time! Toss up what ya got. Old or new, best shots! Scrog love!

Woodsmantoker~

Day 21 scrog shots

Pic time....Here is one of my SCRoG that got ripped by rippers this year! So depressing, I know that fucker enjoyed it and probably made some good money off it!

I'm wondering if you get more coverage out of a light when you scrog. If I have a 1,000 watt HPS without scrog I would use about a 4x4 area. If I scrog could I get 5x5 or 6x6 out of the same light?

im guessing since I don't need the penetration I could but I'd love to hear from the pros

johnnymcpotts said:

I'm wondering if you get more coverage out of a light when you scrog. If I have a 1,000 watt HPS without scrog I would use about a 4x4 area. If I scrog could I get 5x5 or 6x6 out of the same light?

im guessing since I don't need the penetration I could but I'd love to hear from the pros

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I think you will get the same coverage. Light only travels so far in high lumens.

But you could scrog into a verticle pattern creating more square feet. or a U shape. That's what I'll be doing on the next flower cycle.

_I am no way shape or form an expert on this. Just taking a jab at it for ya.

Thanks for the feedback. I'll stick with the same footprint

Become the "pro". Light intensity meters will show you what your footprint looks like, there are even apps yet i would trust hardware first.. Yes you can cover a larger area then 4x4 with a 1000 watt light, your hood and glass (if any) however can change all that.

Woodsmantoker

So how much training is done before the scrog screen is used? On average, How many weeks into veg would wait to put the screen up?

So yeah i put air stone in my buckets and flood them for an hour on and 3 hour off at a time and i tripled my growth so when i normally switch my screen i would get 8-12" above screen tops for canopy. Well ill let the picture tell how much they grew above canopy this time... forest! Idk what they turn out like. Nervous actually haha...

One picture is before they switched to 12/12... crazy growth... 8 lights, co2 sealed room, 10ft by 16ft screen over packed.