Entrance door to new 6x6x6 grow room

what what

Active Member
I have a tarp zip and they leak light BAD. They have a light proof zipper now on their website. I have a tarpzip in the center of my tent and the bottoms are cut horizontal from end to end and those are velcrowed to the 2x3 wood that makes up the floor. The zipper leaks light really bad so I took a piece of panda film and tapped it from top to bottom of the zipper but just on the right side so I can still open the door. Its much better that way but no way perfect. Id build a door if I was making a perminate structure with wood pannels.
 

HighLowGrow

Well-Known Member
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This is temporary. I bought a roll of 25'x10' black plastic sheeting. Then with a razor, I cut a 7'x6' piece to cover the entrance on the inside. Had a scrap of plywood leftover that was 8'x3". Cut that to 5 1/2'x3".

Everything was layed out on the ground. I then put the piece of plywood on top of the plastic on one of the ends, popped a few staples in to secure the plastic to the plywood, then rolled both about 4 times. Again, popped 4 or 5 staples. Done. Then it was time to hang it. Brought the new door to the inside, held it in place at the top, and drilled 5 screws along the top. Done.

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I did buy a tarp zipper but haven't installed it yet. Don't know if I will but probably.
 

GreenGurl

Well-Known Member
It's a little late, but I would have just thrown in a pre-hung door. If you take a look at my profile and set up, that's what I did and I'm super happy I didn't have ass it with panda plastic (although that stuff is great) or a floppy plywood door. Maybe you could find a 28" that would work?
 

knourgro

Active Member
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I'm building a 6'x6'x6' room. I have 1 wall to finish and this is where I need to put a door. I will be closing up two of these openings with some remaining plywwod. That leaves 1 slot for a door.

Questions:

1. Out of the three openings, which one should I leave open for a door? It doesn't really matter to me. Anyone have an opinion?

2. Instead of a door with hinges, is there a simple lightproof material I could hang at the open slot? (black plastic or cloth) Maybe one on the inside and one on the outside something like a dark room (if I remember them correctly).

Thanks all

- HLG
its gona be real crowded in there one day and i have a box thats very similar. i would put 2 doors, one at the junction of each housewall, that way your not struggling to reach back to the ladies that are crammed 6ft behind your only door.

trust, if possible, 2doors is way more convineint lol
 

GreenGurl

Well-Known Member
knourgro has a great point: two points of access are better than one! (I'm constantly shuffling the ladies when it comes harvest time.)
 

HighLowGrow

Well-Known Member
So I've had pineapple express and confidential cheese vegging under a combo of 2700 and 6500 cfls in a different cab for 15 days. After doing some research, last night I decided to bring both of these girls into the new room and continue to veg under the 400 hps on a 18/6 schedule. (never did buy a veg bulb). After 1 night under the 400, there was some noticeable growth. The distance from light to plant is 12-13". Temp in room is 75. Hum ?

Last week they were both transplanted from the party cups to 3 gal pots in FFOF. In a couple weeks (depending on growth) the scrog screen will be brought in and I will continue vegging both for another month or so. Then flower time. That's the plan for now.

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knourgro

Active Member
knourgro has a great point: two points of access are better than one! (I'm constantly shuffling the ladies when it comes harvest time.)
ya its awful right! lol i spend more time crawling around and movin stuff than i actually do trimming. thought id let somone else learn from our mistakes before he gets himself into "tight situation" (hah yes its funny, laugh!)
 

HighLowGrow

Well-Known Member
It's a little late, but I would have just thrown in a pre-hung door. If you take a look at my profile and set up, that's what I did and I'm super happy I didn't have ass it with panda plastic (although that stuff is great) or a floppy plywood door. Maybe you could find a 28" that would work?
I checked out your door. That looks real nice GG. It's never too late to make a change. What I have up now is temporary. I will probably put in a pre-hung, but may need to modify it to fit. Total height is only 6'.
 

HighLowGrow

Well-Known Member
That's an awesome little rig. How much do you have invested in building it?
Thanks man.

3/8" plywood, 2"x3" studs, couple boxes of screws

I would say $140

Keep in mind, the floor and two walls were already there from another project I never finished.
 

HighLowGrow

Well-Known Member
I've grown autos for the last 2 years under cfls 24/0. Typical dry harvests were about 1 oz a plant.

Recap:

I've now moved up to the 400. I vegged the Confidential Cheese and Pineapple Express with the same CFLs for a little over 2 weeks. They are currently vegging under the 400 HPS 18/6. Plants are looking great. Light to plant distance is about 8" with no heat issues. Internodal spacing is tight with no stretching. Continuing with the HPS through veg and into flower.

This first run will be a test on how well the HPS works in veg and flower.

No topping or fimming on these two plants. Depending on growth, I'll let these veg another week or two and bring in the scrog screen. Once the screen is in place, I'll veg for another 3-4 weeks and flip to 12/12.

Scrog screen is already made. Pics of the plants and the screen coming very soon.
 

HighLowGrow

Well-Known Member
Pics of the screen, Pineapple Express, Confidential Cheese, and both.

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Now I need to start thinking about how to collect runoff once these start growing under the screen without moving the plants. I did find a new bbq grill laying around in the shop. The bbq grill is currently sitting on two 2"x3"s. I could simply slide a tray between the 2x3s to catch runoff...................
 

HighLowGrow

Well-Known Member
22 days from germ. Still vegging under the 400 hps 18/6. Everything is looking good. These are in FFOF so no nutes yet, but will start any day now. It looks like the screen will be put in place within a week.



CC 22 days from germ.JPG PE 22 days from germ.JPG both 22 days from germ.JPG
Confidential Cheese Pineapple Express Both 22 days old
 

HighLowGrow

Well-Known Member
Today is day 25 from germ.

I brought the screen in this weekend. The screen is 8-9" above the pot rims. CC is starting to hit the screen. Still vegging under the 400 hps 18/6.

NEED MORE HEAT!

I've disconnected the ducting from the hood and have the oscillating fan off. The digital ballast is inside the room. In the morning when the light is still on, temps are around 68. I put a very small heater fan in there over night. Temp hit 75-79. Problem....that little heater fan is 1200 watts! Damn.

I have some insulation laying around which I will put on the roof of this room. Should do something. That plastic film door I made isn't helping the matter either.

Remember - The uninsulated room is out in an uninsulated shop. Outside overnight temp got down to 38. Oh do I love a challenge.


PE 25 days from germ.JPG

Pineapple Express

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Confidential Cheese
 

HighLowGrow

Well-Known Member
So I have disconnected the ducting. Plugged up intake and exhaust holes. Layed insulation on the roof. Have an oscillating fan blowing inside. Temp with light on 74. Lights out 67-68. Definitely not the perfect senario. Both plants are doing good. I've done a little lst to get some light down to the lower branches and to make them stretch some up to the screen.

I'll get some pics up in the next few days.
 

VLRD.Kush

Well-Known Member
Why not get some insulation foam, the pink sheets of Styrofoam insulation not the R-13 (cotton-like material), and glue/ tack it to the inside of the room. Wont take up as much room as the rolls of R13 and will help a lot.
 

cheddar1985

Well-Known Member
Bro for your door just use some of the 2x2 or 3x3 and build a frame like u av done be4 sticking plywood to the structure of your room then either use panda sheetin or mylar and staple it to the frame job done make sure u strenghen edges so wen u slide door in and out it does nt tear or rip your sheeting!!
 

HighLowGrow

Well-Known Member
Why not get some insulation foam, the pink sheets of Styrofoam insulation not the R-13 (cotton-like material), and glue/ tack it to the inside of the room. Wont take up as much room as the rolls of R13 and will help a lot.
Damn thats a simple solution. I likey. Thanks.

It sure is a challenge growing out in that shop with no a/c or heater. I've done several auto grows in a cab out there during the summer when it's friggin hot. 95 degrees +. Doors wide open. CFLs going 24/0. Fans blowing everywhere. Pretty obvious a grow is going in there. Of course I had to have some fiberglass panels installed along the top of the shop for free light when I had it built. Lights on for 9 weeks straight 24/0. LOL

I have got to say. If I can grow in that shop, I can grow anywhere.
 

HighLowGrow

Well-Known Member
Bro for your door just use some of the 2x2 or 3x3 and build a frame like u av done be4 sticking plywood to the structure of your room then either use panda sheetin or mylar and staple it to the frame job done make sure u strenghen edges so wen u slide door in and out it does nt tear or rip your sheeting!!
I don't know what you mean by sliding the door in and out? I do like the idea of using the 2"x3"s to make a frame and stapling the panda sheeting to it. I already have the hinges, wood, and sheeting. I could leave the sheet up that's already stapled to the inside and just add the door.

Simple door. Thanks Ched.
 

cheddar1985

Well-Known Member
No hinges needed pal make a lip on the outside of the door frame and with the extractor runnin it pulls the door tightly in from the negative effect it has in the room
 
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