Feedback on my new COB array hanger

Check out the Samsung hardstrips. They are smaller strips of LEDs and very efficient. They fit perfectly on the bars edges and make for a great supplemental light for younger plants.
This is my new veg light. 6 6500k cobs and 2 5000k cobs. The strips are also 5000k. Since I am starting from seed I will start with the strips then slowely increase the cobs which will be on 2 seperate drivers that are also dimmable. This is one of the most enjoyable parts growing.

Fastslappy said:

I cut my 3X wide 20 series 80/20 with a carbide tipped 10" chop saw , lub the piece well (WD40) & yer blade
clamp well or lose yer fingers
cut very slowly
eye protection as the AL chips will fly
will not damage the saw blade IF U cut slowly & lube

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Wow your using the good stuff. I just use single 10 series. Cheap harbor freight 6" metal chop saw

Big smo said:

Wow your using the good stuff. I just use single 10 series. Cheap harbor freight 6" metal chop saw

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u can get the good stuff quite cheap if u watch the auctions @ the 80/20 garage sale
u can email them & they will combine shipping for all items
ask for combined shipping quote that will save cash as well when u've won multiple auctions
they also will cut any piece u want &/or do custom mill work on any auction item or garage sale item

Strocat said:

What are some strains you've grown out and like alot?

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NL, SSH, GDP, Shishkaberry, Grape Kush, TrainWreck, Bubblegum, and a few others. I haven't grown since 2008 for various reasons, so I'm really looking forward to this.

I think Super Silver Haze is one of my all-time favorites. Although, I have gotten hooked on Lemon Kush and my vaporizer (which is mostly what I use). I can get some really dense vapor with a ton of flavor. Other favorites these days: Permafrost, LSD, Blue Dream, GSC, and for sleepy-time, BlackBerry Kush.

Fastslappy said:

I cut my 3X wide 20 series 80/20 with a carbide tipped 10" chop saw , lub the piece well (WD40) & yer blade
clamp well or lose yer fingers
cut very slowly
eye protection as the AL chips will fly
will not damage the saw blade IF U cut slowly & lube

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Thanks! I was wondering how verbose I was going to have to go with the blade. And I'll be sure to keep it lubed while I'm slowly cutting. I take my time building things these day, and I'm all about precision now.

Big smo said:

Check out the Samsung hardstrips. They are smaller strips of LEDs and very efficient. They fit perfectly on the bars edges and make for a great supplemental light for younger plants. View attachment 3818700View attachment 3818701
This is my new veg light. 6 6500k cobs and 2 5000k cobs. The strips are also 5000k. Since I am starting from seed I will start with the strips then slowely increase the cobs which will be on 2 seperate drivers that are also dimmable. This is one of the most enjoyable parts growing.

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Those are cool! I've never seen those. Are they as good as the 3590s for par? I imagine the spread is really even with hose!

JSB99 said:

Those are cool! I've never seen those. Are they as good as the 3590s for par? I imagine the spread is really even with hose!

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I don't remember the exact specs but I do know they blow away t5's which are still commonly used. Under the 3590's but still respectable.

Big smo said:

Check out the Samsung hardstrips. They are smaller strips of LEDs and very efficient. They fit...

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I see a lot of people mounting their drivers on their rack instead of externally. They must not put out that much heat like a ballast. I had planned on driving my 16 1050mA COBs with two HLG-320H-C1050B drivers mounted outside my tent. It would be much more convenient to have them as part of the rack structure.

Big smo said:

I don't remember the exact specs but I do know they blow away t5's which are still commonly used. Under the 3590's but still respectable.

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That's good to know! I was thinking that it'd be perfect for mounting 3 t5s or 3uv lights parallel to the center rail and in between the COBs. Maybe I'll go this route

The drivers do get warm. I'm not convinced it is worth remote mounting them considering the long stretch of wiring and it is a little unsafe unless you take the time on it.

Big smo said:

The drivers do get warm. I'm not convinced it is worth remote mounting them considering the long stretch of wiring and it is a little unsafe unless you take the time on it.

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I'll probably end up mounting them remotely then. I'm sure I can find a way to keep them out of the way. That's part of the reason I wanted to use extruded aluminum channels. Very easy to tuck wires away.

Big smo said:

Wow your using the good stuff. I just use single 10 series. Cheap harbor freight 6" metal chop saw

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the $200 band saw i bought from harbor freight is my favorite tool for building racks. dead straight everytime with no post cut filing like with the chop saws

http://www.harborfreight.com/horizontal-vertical-metal-cutting-bandsaw-93762.html

i waited it out and used the 25% coupon they sent me to get it for like $210 out the door after tax

CobKits said:

the $200 band saw i bought from harbor freight is my favorite tool for building racks. dead straight everytime with no post cut filing like with the chop saws

http://www.harborfreight.com/horizontal-vertical-metal-cutting-bandsaw-93762.html

i waited it out and used the 25% coupon they sent me to get it for like $210 out the door after tax

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I don't have an issue with the extrusion but have with angle. Have you used it with both types? That looks like the badass version of my 18v Milwaukee portable. My new garage will be up soon. How much I despise that place there are a few items that even the Chinese didn't make to cheap.

i have a dewalt portaband too, it cant touch this for straight cuts. harbor actually make a $600 fluid cooled version that i thought was way overkill for my needs. so for once i didnt go all out and i am happy its an excellent value. ill stack up 4-6 pc in the vise, get it started, a spritz of cutting fluid and walk away. i have it set on its slowest setting as i couldnt care less if it was 90 sec a cut vs 60 when im doing something else anyway. if that blade lasts a year it will prob last 10 under my use

hate on harbor all you want truth is my dewalt and your milwaukee were both made in china

I just robbed marks profile photos from cutter
Not sure on the price but this seems like a decent option.

JSB99 said:

What about side-mounting the lights?

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Use this setup, hang it from the four outside corners IMO. Also, whenever Im cutting aluminum or most other things actually, I just use an angle grinder with a metal or diamond blade. Works wonderfully and is cheap.

You might be further ahead to make 2 separate light rails with 8 COBs each depending on how you plan on setting it up. At least would be easier to manage moving it around and setting it up IMO. Those potential issues might be of no concern to you, but just a thought.

I remote mounted my drivers and junction boxes and it makes for very light weight lights. I used angled aluminum to get up and running but will be going back later and going with 80/20 when the time allows.

Lots of good information here in this thread.

Big smo said:

The drivers do get warm. I'm not convinced it is worth remote mounting them considering the long stretch of wiring and it is a little unsafe unless you take the time on it.

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I would agree - they don't create enough heat to cause any concern. If you do end up remote mounting, make sure to increase the wire gauge to make up for the added distance to drive the current.

Evil-Mobo said:

I remote mounted my drivers and junction boxes and it makes for very light weight lights. I used angled aluminum to get up and running but will be going back later and going with 80/20 when the time allows.

Lots of good information here in this thread.

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And this would be the main reason to remote mount them, the weight. But if you're hanging all those passive heatsinks, you can't be all that worried about weight, what's an extra couple pounds from a driver when you have 10+ heatsinks suspended?

HockeyBeard said:

I would agree - they don't create enough heat to cause any concern. If you do end up remote mounting, make sure to increase the wire gauge to make up for the added distance to drive the current.



And this would be the main reason to remote mount them, the weight. But if you're hanging all those passive heatsinks, you can't be all that worried about weight, what's an extra couple pounds from a driver when you have 10+ heatsinks suspended?

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That and the simplicity of just having a power cord.