Finding Ppm Sweet Spot in Flower

NEVER OUTGUNNED

Active Member
I hear you. there's just no need for degrading other peoples system, spewing some irrelevant details, and then throwing in a sly insult cause their not doing it his way. Bad enough you get 47 views and no response, then when you get one that's all you have to look forward to?
 

homebrewer

Well-Known Member
I hear you. there's just no need for degrading other peoples system, spewing some irrelevant details, and then throwing in a sly insult cause their not doing it his way. Bad enough you get 47 views and no response, then when you get one that's all you have to look forward to?
Seriously, what the heck are you talking about? Are you reading the same thread as everyone else?
 

woodsmaneh!

Well-Known Member
Well back to the topic of finding the sweet spot

It works like this change res set ppm at say 600ppm ph 5.9 run for 24hrs, now if you ppm rise and ph drops nutes are to strong. If ppm drop and ph rises, nutes are to weak. But if your ppm and ph are basically stable then you have found the right mix for your plants.

[FONT=&quot] Then when topping off your res use pre mixed nutes to keep it at that level, if it starts to rise or fall adjust top off nutes as needed to bring it back to proper level. This is how I set my system up and has worked great for me.

The other thing I don't do is chase ph, I pick a range that is suitable for the way I am growing and leave it at that. For example in my RDWC System my range is 5.4 to 6.2 when it moves out of that range I take action.

IMHO

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unity

Well-Known Member
I'll jump in lol.
It is just not as simple as saying that 1800ppm is to much or 1200ppm is perfect. Watering intervals, res size, plant perspiration rate, relative humidity etc. all contribute to nute uptake rates as well as nute concentration at the root zone. So were one grwing style might burn at 1400ppm and 3x flooding a day, the next guy might water every hour for 60sec. at 1800ppm and not burn due to the nutes not concentrating around the root zone. Bla bla bla, so keep it real guys!
I do have to say though that the ak47s on the previous page look rather saturated (very dark), considering how close to finishing they are. But pics can be misleading :)
My 2 cents!
Cheers
 

homebrewer

Well-Known Member
It works like this change res set ppm at say 600ppm ph 5.9 run for 24hrs, now if you ppm rise and ph drops nutes are to strong. If ppm drop and ph rises, nutes are to weak. But if your ppm and ph are basically stable then you have found the right mix for your plants.
This assumes all nutrient brands are innately stable which is not true.
 

Feelinit

Active Member
Good info, thx again. Ya I dont chase ph either. I set at 5.6 and let rise to about 6.1, then bring down.

Did not think about other factors such as humidity heat etc.

It's not a perfect method, but seems to give you a pretty good idea what's going on.
 

tenthirty

Well-Known Member
I am running in a flooded tube ala heath. What would you say would be the best starting ppm or better yet EC, going from clone>veg>flower?
 
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