it is time to start adding some base nutrients. Botanacare is relatively cheap and organic. Mine were the same way but then after a week or two all the new leaves look amazing.View attachment 2915405
The AN pH Sensi Coco has chelated micro nutes (including Iron, Zinc, Manganese, Molybdenum, Copper, Boron and Cobalt) so I'm not sure zinc deficiency is the problem...
Any comments/suggestions on this reg? Again, I'm a newb so don't feel bad treating me as such I chose to grow in coco 'cause I was told it was the easiest to learn in -- still not sure if this is the case
So 4 days later and little to any growth on the plants. Tried correcting the problem but it would appear I made it worse
The new growth on the oldest girl has a solid dark purple outline around it, and the old growth on my younger plants is drying/dying/mottled... pics below; any help is greatly appreciated - i love my girls but don't know how to help them
I think it's micro nute deficiency - but I don't know which one (or if I'm even on the right track)...
Here are some better pictures; first is of the small girls, second is of the bigger one - notice the weird coloring on the new growth (purple, then light green/yellow, then healthy green)
Whats up guys, so about 2 months ago my friend and I were smoking some great dank. We were so high lol we decided hey why not just grow our own plants. with no prior knowledge or anything we threw about 10 seeds into the same pot. about 60 joints later 5 of them have grown but they are in the same pot. my question is will the plants die? they seem to be doing very well right now. the one in the middle is the largest and seems to be getting the most nutrients thus stunting the other's growth a bit but they are still coming along.
Gunna do that tomorrow mid-morning - I chose 24 hrs because temperature regulation is a bitch where I'm at. Also giving a boost of phosphorus, so we'll see how it goes. Thanks for the advice
Ok, 4 days after the light switch and nute boost everything seems to be back on track .
First grow tips for anyone growing in coco:
Don't baby your plants!
To avoid over-watering wait until your pots feel dry (weight wise). Don't go poking around in the dirt - but if you must just check the first .25-.5"
Don't worry too much about nute burn - coco is nutrient deficient, your plant's going to need supplements by week 2. Start with 1/4 nute recommendation - or better yet get nutes designed for coco and follow their schedule
Coco has a natural tendency to hold onto cations (such as Cal-Mag-Potassium) due to its cation exchange capacity. During the first few weeks of growth the plant should be supplemented with a substantial CalMag boost to avoid stunted growth
If your stems/leaf tips start turning purple, or notice odd shading/growth patterns early on, chances are you're NPK ratio is off or you're underfeeding in general. Re-asses your ratio (I find 3-1-2 has been working best), flush to avoid pH or nute lockout, and then feed the new concentrations.
THE INTERNET IS FULL OF HELPFUL RESOURCES - THESE ARE A FEW THAT HELPED ME
PHOSPHORUS (P)
Slow or stunted growth, red stems. Smaller leaves that are dark green. Lower leaves yellow and die. Add chemical fertilizer containing P. Affected leaves will not show recovery but new growth will apear normal.
POTASSIUM (K)
Affected plants are usually tallest and appear to be most vigorous. Necrotic spots form on lower leaves. Red stems. Leaves appear pale or yellow. Add chemical fertilizer containing K.
CALCIUM (Ca)
Lack of calcium in the soil results in the soil becoming too acid. This leads to Mg or Fe deficiency or very slow stunted growth. Treat by foliar feeding with one teaspoon of dolomatic lime per quart of water until condition improves.
SULFER (S)
Plants suffering from S definciencies exhibit yellowing of new growth. Mix one tablespoon of Epsom salts per gallon of water until condition improves.
MAGNESIUM (Mg)
Lower leaves yellow and may even turn white while veins remain dark green. Blades die and curl upward.
IRON (Fe)
Leaves on growing shoots turn pale and veins remain dark green. pH imbalances make iron insoluble. Foliar feed with chemical fertilizer containing Fe or rusty water.
MANGANESE (Mn)
Necrotic and yellow spots form on top leaves. Mn deficiency occurs when large amounts of Mg are present in the soil. Foliar feed with any chemical fertilizer containing Mn.
BORON (B)
Growing shoots turn grey or die. Growing shoots appear burnt. Treat with one teaspoon of Boric acid (sold as eyewash) per gallon of water.
MOLYBDENUM (Mb)
Yellowing of middle leaves. Foliar feed with chemical fertilizer containing Mb.
ZINC (Zn)
White areas form at leaf tips and between veins. Occurs in alkaline soils. Zn deficiency can be treated by burying galvanized nails in the soil. Chemical fertilizer containing Zn can also be used.
OVER FERTILIZATION
Causes leaf tips to appear yellow or burnt. To correct soil should be flushed with three gallons of water per one gallon of soil.