FIRST TIMER, CAN'T FIGURE OUT WHAT'S UP WITH THESE PLANTS!

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greeny9191

Member
Hi, First timer here. On Day 37 from seed, topped at 3rd node 4 days ago, PH 6.0, PPM 540, water temp 23 degrees Celsius, RH 50%, Room temp 23-30 Celsius. From what I've read so far it looks like it could be PH Fluctuations but PH hasn't gone below 5.7 or above 6.3 for about the past 2 weeks, and spots only appeared on these leaves in the past few days (but lower leaves also had similar markings). Could it be nutrient burn? Or lack of a certain nutrient? Or too warm water temps? Help!Leaf.jpgLeaf.jpgLeaf.jpgLeaf.jpgLeaf.jpgLeaf 1.jpg
 

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70's natureboy

70's natureboy

Well-Known Member
They look to be over fed. Your numbers are fine. somebody's lyin'. they could be extra nute sensitive. What kind of nutes are you feeding and how much do you mix in a gallon?
 
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greeny9191

Member
70's natureboy said:
They look to be over fed. Your numbers are fine. somebody's lyin'. they could be extra nute sensitive. What kind of nutes are you feeding and how much do you mix in a gallon?
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I'm using GH Trio range (15ml each of bloom/micro/grow per 27ltr RO water), with 25ml Botanicare CalMag+ and half tsp of Great White mycorrhizae

Could well be over fed, a mistake many a newbie has made I believe!
 
70's natureboy

70's natureboy

Well-Known Member
You aren't mixing the nutes too strong, actually kinda light. I don't know much about Botanicare calmag but hopefully you are using about .2 ec of that stuff. I know nothing about Great white, I always figured it was a marketing scam. I also don't trust ph meters so I would question that. I always have a hard time getting ro water and calmag dialed in so I use my tap water. It's a bummer you are having problems because you seem to be caring for them almost perfectly. It's a stumper.
 
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greeny9191

Member
70's natureboy said:
You aren't mixing the nutes too strong, actually kinda light. I don't know much about Botanicare calmag but hopefully you are using about .2 ec of that stuff. I know nothing about Great white, I always figured it was a marketing scam. I also don't trust ph meters so I would question that. I always have a hard time getting ro water and calmag dialed in so I use my tap water. It's a bummer you are having problems because you seem to be caring for them almost perfectly. It's a stumper.
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Here's some better pics, looks like it could be a combo of issues to me as some leaves (the big lower ones) show different patterns of discoloration to the upper ones.
 

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oill

Well-Known Member
greeny9191 said:
Hi, First timer here. On Day 37 from seed, topped at 3rd node 4 days ago, PH 6.0, PPM 540, water temp 23 degrees Celsius, RH 50%, Room temp 23-30 Celsius. From what I've read so far it looks like it could be PH Fluctuations but PH hasn't gone below 5.7 or above 6.3 for about the past 2 weeks, and spots only appeared on these leaves in the past few days (but lower leaves also had similar markings). Could it be nutrient burn? Or lack of a certain nutrient? Or too warm water temps? Help!View attachment 4624421View attachment 4624421View attachment 4624421View attachment 4624421View attachment 4624421View attachment 4624426
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Its ph. It needs to be stable 5.8
 
MICHI-CAN

MICHI-CAN

Well-Known Member
Kassiopeija said:
I think your EC is too low.
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Actually looks like excess calcium. EC should be 0.3-0.4 for calcium. And I would vary my ph between 5.8 and 6.2. Changes up the nutrient availability. Provides more balanced diet so to speak. Don't do hydro any longer. But have had same issue a few times when I did. Killed a couple plants trying to get more CA in. Hate to conflict with others here. But that's my experience and what I believe I am seeing.
 
MICHI-CAN

MICHI-CAN

Well-Known Member
greeny9191 said:
So PPM should be nearer 1000?
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Plants vary widely in nutrient requirements and tolerances. My veg fert I feed at 850 PPM to 1000PPM depending on tolerance. Flower fert between 1000 and 1300PPM.Start on the low end. Just watch for tips to curl if too much. No tip curl. Bump it up 50 -100PPM till you find the sweet spot.
 
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greeny9191

Member
MICHI-CAN said:
Actually looks like excess calcium. EC should be 0.3-0.4 for calcium. And I would vary my ph between 5.8 and 6.2. Changes up the nutrient availability. Provides more balanced diet so to speak. Don't do hydro any longer. But have had same issue a few times when I did. Killed a couple plants trying to get more CA in. Hate to conflict with others here. But that's my experience and what I believe I am seeing.
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Ok thanks very much for your input. So I'm used to working with ppm but I have the EC function on my meter. If I start with R.O water at 0 EC and just add calmag until the EC is 0.3-0.4, then add the other nutrients should that be ok? The calcium nutrient I use is mixed in with the magnesium (I'm using botanicare Calmag+) so do you mean the EC once I've added the calmag should be 0.3-0.4? If you mean the EC for calcium alone should be 0.3-0.4 then what should it be when you add the magnesium into the mix as well? Hope that makes sense.
 
MICHI-CAN

MICHI-CAN

Well-Known Member
greeny9191 said:
Ok thanks very much for your input. So I'm used to working with ppm but I have the EC function on my meter. If I start with R.O water at 0 EC and just add calmag until the EC is 0.3-0.4, then add the other nutrients should that be ok? The calcium nutrient I use is mixed in with the magnesium (I'm using botanicare Calmag+) so do you mean the EC once I've added the calmag should be 0.3-0.4? If you mean the EC for calcium alone should be 0.3-0.4 then what should it be when you add the magnesium into the mix as well? Hope that makes sense.
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Makes perfect sense. I Keep forgetting everyone uses cal/mag nowdays. I use epsoms Salt for mag and the water I strain off boiled crushed egg shells. Been about 20 years since my wet sets. I meant EC after calcium only. But in Your Case I would Just stop using the cal mag to see If things improve. Easily overdone. Just A thought. Best I have for you.
 
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