flowering 24/12

testiclees

Well-Known Member
Love ya man, but I disagree with the
no-light= stretch
comment.
in my experience it's low-light or low quality light (like bad bulbs) that make stretch.
I've done the 24 hrs of light, and couldn't tell the difference when I went to a 20/4.
Why waste that 4 hrs if I can't see a difference is what my reasoning says.
that's a lot of energy over the course of a yr.
I think it oftens seem true that wrong light red vs blue, or weak light increases stretch but i discovered this grow some plants are really stretchy. I grew a cannabiogen destroyer under a very bright fixture and the photons did not slow it down a bit.
 

Sativied

Well-Known Member
Love ya man, but I disagree with the
no-light= stretch
comment.
in my experience it's low-light or low quality light (like bad bulbs) that make stretch.
I've done the 24 hrs of light, and couldn't tell the difference when I went to a 20/4.
Why waste that 4 hrs if I can't see a difference is what my reasoning says.
that's a lot of energy over the course of a yr.
That's fine lol... I merely share my experiences, resources and conclusions.

Context of that "no light" part was GLR though. I have recently vegged 40+ plants of 2 strains, 3 different lines, in total 4 different generations, under GLR schedule for nearly a couple of weeks. I know those plants inside out (having grown nearly 150 of the same over the past two years). GLR sucks testicles and is just silly. Plants from the same F3 under 24 (seedling stage, till 4th set roughly) and 18/6 are so much better in every way. More nodes, less stretchy, a lot more vigorous.

Short internodes during veg are highly overrated (^barely a foot tall)... what matters more is the structure of the terminal and axillary buds that form during transition (yeah unless you're growing some short afghani... err.. og kush).



I agree low quality light is noticeably worse... if you replace the light/day period with said low intensity that is. Replacing the dark period (during veg...) with low intensity light merely to keep the photoperiod and hence carbon uptake going could at least be an imo more interesting and possibly fruitful experiment.

Outside it goes dark because the world rotates, indoor this problem does not have to exist. 24hrs during veg is certainly not efficient energy wise. I do it only in my preveg boxes (54-72w T8) and initially under 400w mh. Running 6 hours more light on top of the 18 won't make them grow 33% faster. There's a healthy max intensity (ppfd) and if you want to give them more light than that (for what imo should be obvious reasons) you have according to the tests and advise I referred to the option of increasing the duration of the photoperiod, i.e. give them the same intensity but longer. Doing the opposite, introducing more dark periods, is counterproductive .

It reduces the electricity bill sure, but it also halts photosynthesis, transpiration is heavily reduced(as blumat tensio meters show nicely...) and hence nutrient uptake too. I'd give them plenty of sleep if they were pets, but they are chemical factories that can be put to work and under optimal conditions don't need a dark period during veg and don't always need 12 hours of darkness during flower.

Makes me wonder if there are people who boost their HPS with 10% yet reduce the photoperiod by a similar amount...:shock:
 

Indagrow

Well-Known Member
There are successful gardeners that start 12/12 or 11/13 and increase to 13/11 mid flowering and then back to 11/13. A grower in the RIU LED section has nice buds using that pattern.
I'll have to look that up. I wonder what the threshold is for the light exposure. I'm assuming if they have to tone it down at the end they must have run into some issues doing it the whole way through
 

testiclees

Well-Known Member
I'll have to look that up. I wonder what the threshold is for the light exposure. I'm assuming if they have to tone it down at the end they must have run into some issues doing it the whole way through
Ya could be. I think it was the grower ChurchHaze. It might have been just a rhythm he figured out to get the plant to finish up cleanly.

Ill see if i can find the reference.

EDIT:It is Captain Morgan I think he uses a far red diode to initiate lights out response

https://www.rollitup.org/t/the-far-red-thread.867665/page-8#post-11572059
 
Last edited:

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
I played with the expensive 730nm LED "sleeping pill" lighting......Not that impressed by results vs cost ratio.....I still have a cpl of them and sold the others.....Maybe I should try some testing again in my personal as it's not cost effective in the commercials....I mean we have everything dialed into a cost to result relationship.....Change things and the vs results move fast.......I mean even minor cost increase's can translate to significant $ in the long run......Goals to meet and I don't mean wallet size goals...

The above post rolls on about building pontoons and what diode to by from what company and tweezers and soldering irons and and and......By the time I got through reading it I could have done the testing and actually posted results......I think results are more interesting then the drivel......I did not see results and got bored and quit reading it to post here...

I've done MH all the way for a long time in personal and switched back to HPS......Now I want to go back to "mixing" at the end and the 10Ks look nice, very nice! Sigh, next run....

http://solis-tek.com/digital-lamps/mh10k.html

I'm more interested in the new 10K bulbs at this point....I mean I sunk boo coo bucks into my personal building in every way....Now all shit has broke loose with CMD and the new T5's not to mention the 10K's.......You look back and say "DAMN IT! I should have built in available supplemental lighting capabilities or added more available outlets at least !" Life is 20/20 hindsight way to often!
You think you have all the bases covered and you go "Shit, Goddamn, get off my ass and jam, it's run time!" Then the newest coolest thing pops out and your invested in another tech. The "I want THAT" felling attacks and you start thinking you did the wrong thing........Where was this a year ago when I was planing and buying supplies!

Screw lighting times over 12/12......I want my blues back.......I mean isn't it like the Blue spectral photon's effect the plant more powerfully then the PAR end. And still every one keeps quoting that HPS is more effective then MH in bloom......Yet I still end up missing some aspects of my MH results......"Head spinning"

Sorry I went a bit off topic but, to return. I don't see an hr added here or taken away there as making too much difference in anything but commercial runs.....Cost to return is king there - I know about that......But on the personal or home grower side.....The point I feel is.....TRY IT FOR YOURSELF AND SEE! I still like my pheno expression at 11/13 better then 12/12....I have to say to @Sativied ....It's all in just what your trying to do eh?

12/12 for years. 11/13 helps under HPS in my book as I still think ripening is better with a more blue sided spectrum over the high PAR of HPS.......When running MH it was always 12/12. I gotta go back and do some more work with the 730's to just really see what I can do with another 1.5 hrs of lights on time at 13.5/10.5,,,,,14/10 was pushing it with those last time I used them...

Doc
 

Sativied

Well-Known Member
I like your style Doc, always have, including the long posts, and not just because they make mine look less abnormal :D

I have to say to @Sativied ....It's all in just what your trying to do eh?
Sure, and I was explicitly talking about aiming for max yield over time and per run and not what makes a more desirable pheno or "happier" plants. If max yield were my goal I'd be growing in my tubes (NFT), veg on 24hr, flower with the longest photoperiod.... but it's not, so I grow organic in soil and flower 11/13 flower (less electricity while still giving me plenty till next harvest).

I still like my pheno expression at 11/13 better then 12/12...
You mentioned that in a previous post too, forgot to reply to that: I certainly think that's a valid reason to try 11/13. Credit for that approach goes especially to DJ Short imo, he has old posts about it at another more respectable grow forum, probably wrote something about it in his book too. I would not run a pure haze on 13/11 for example... but then those don't really need a veg period either. He wrote that to suggest being able to select more sativa dom phenos earlier on though, i.e. for breeding purposes. I disagree when it comes to growing for max yields. For that it makes a lot more sense to run 13/11 and select towards plants that can handle a longer photoperiod. Just as we can still produce enough food to prevent the world from starving largely because we select and breed plants that can take up and process more nutes, not feed the same plants more, or even less.

Also, I don't believe there's a 11/13 pheno that is so much better than what can be found in 12/12 or 13/11 phenos and justifies the decreased lighting requirement. Surely the same taste, cannabinoids, structure and yield can be found in one of the many other hybrids. Same reason clone-only strains that hermie should not exist. At most, it (the hermie or the 11/13 pheno) has desirable genes that should be bred into a better variety (breeding out the gene(s) that mask the desirable gene(s) under 12/12).

Have you tried something like 11.5/12.5? Changing the light period half an hour makes a full hour difference between dark and night already and may be enough to get the desired pheno. I got to ask though, does the pheno expression really go further than just leaflet broadness, i.e. is there an actual difference in the bud it produces?

[ offtopic ]
HPS vegs and ripes just fine for the best growers I know and measure with. Experts from philips and gavita as well as the greedy dutch cannabis grower herd have been testing blue to red ratios for decades. HPS>MH but HPS+MH > HPS/MH. And Gavita DE > All :bigjoint:Run a gavita DE and you won't bother with MH anymore. As I mentioned in the Light???? thread I'm aware that most people here have different standards. We grow and count only trimmable nugs. I.e. the part that can be sold. The leafy buds from spreading out an MH so much it produces over 1gpw is close to worthless when you get tens of thousands of competitors growing hard nugs with a high pistil to leaf ratio.
[ / offtopic ]

I grow a lot more plants than I flower, giving me plenty of plants to experiment with. Like this one:
yellow.jpg
Wish I had a pic from the side to show how much it stretched after 4 days no light. Also notice the halted chlorophyll production...
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
I played with the expensive 730nm LED "sleeping pill" lighting......Not that impressed by results vs cost ratio.....I still have a cpl of them and sold the others.....Maybe I should try some testing again in my personal as it's not cost effective in the commercials....I mean we have everything dialed into a cost to result relationship.....Change things and the vs results move fast.......I mean even minor cost increase's can translate to significant $ in the long run......Goals to meet and I don't mean wallet size goals...

The above post rolls on about building pontoons and what diode to by from what company and tweezers and soldering irons and and and......By the time I got through reading it I could have done the testing and actually posted results......I think results are more interesting then the drivel......I did not see results and got bored and quit reading it to post here...

I've done MH all the way for a long time in personal and switched back to HPS......Now I want to go back to "mixing" at the end and the 10Ks look nice, very nice! Sigh, next run....

http://solis-tek.com/digital-lamps/mh10k.html

I'm more interested in the new 10K bulbs at this point....I mean I sunk boo coo bucks into my personal building in every way....Now all shit has broke loose with CMD and the new T5's not to mention the 10K's.......You look back and say "DAMN IT! I should have built in available supplemental lighting capabilities or added more available outlets at least !" Life is 20/20 hindsight way to often!
You think you have all the bases covered and you go "Shit, Goddamn, get off my ass and jam, it's run time!" Then the newest coolest thing pops out and your invested in another tech. The "I want THAT" felling attacks and you start thinking you did the wrong thing........Where was this a year ago when I was planing and buying supplies!

Screw lighting times over 12/12......I want my blues back.......I mean isn't it like the Blue spectral photon's effect the plant more powerfully then the PAR end. And still every one keeps quoting that HPS is more effective then MH in bloom......Yet I still end up missing some aspects of my MH results......"Head spinning"

Sorry I went a bit off topic but, to return. I don't see an hr added here or taken away there as making too much difference in anything but commercial runs.....Cost to return is king there - I know about that......But on the personal or home grower side.....The point I feel is.....TRY IT FOR YOURSELF AND SEE! I still like my pheno expression at 11/13 better then 12/12....I have to say to @Sativied ....It's all in just what your trying to do eh?

12/12 for years. 11/13 helps under HPS in my book as I still think ripening is better with a more blue sided spectrum over the high PAR of HPS.......When running MH it was always 12/12. I gotta go back and do some more work with the 730's to just really see what I can do with another 1.5 hrs of lights on time at 13.5/10.5,,,,,14/10 was pushing it with those last time I used them...

Doc
we seem to be on the same path, I just bought the 10k 600w mh and have been running it for about a week, and that damn thing is BRIGHT... makes my 600w hps look like a 400w all of a sudden, like dwarfs the light, it's weird, and sure I understand its all about the visible light, but still, it's insane, almost seems twice as bright.
I got my acetylene welding glasses to check it out, and you can hardly see anything on the hps side, but the mh side I can see like the plants easily.
I cannot wait to see what this will do to my plants...
BUT
mofo is HOT, I don't have the reflector glass in, and the bulb is considerably hotter than the hps, granted the hps is in a sealed air-cooled reflector.. but still.. anyways I have an angled fan blasting the bulb
insane bulb though, so far i'm impressed... but we'll see.
for the record I used to run a 400w mh and a 600w hps together for yrs.
best (in my experience) is two 600w hps with a 400 w mh in the middle overlapping light patterns.
I got mine on amazon, not too expensive either.
 

Indagrow

Well-Known Member
Wealth of knowledge here guys! I have to get a mh or similar to supplement my 600w HPS,I was looking at cobs and well everything In between! Going to land on a smaller mh I think for now, this hobby can get expensive.. I guess I'll switch back to 12/12.. Not going to lie I got giddy at these first post about 13/11 11/13 and ran over to add 15 mins to start changing the light but maybe next run.. Maybe
 

Kush Killington

Well-Known Member
Hahaha im jus thinkin bout my electric bill...
In hindsight, not the most cost effective test. Especially having no control. If i made it to harvest like this, i wudnt noe if the light added weight (though id know if it shaved time) since this is my first run.... shudve tried this on a significantly smaller scale. >.<

But im commited at least till i noe if they're flowering or not. Ill be satisfied with that much.

Sir KK
 

Kush Killington

Well-Known Member
Also one of them turned out to be male :(
Of course it was the bag seed of some super random fire i had from my veeery first run. Havent kill it yet, but i see the lil balls forming.

Any ideas?

I cud try to collect pollen but im scared to be honest. Ive always just chopped males or ran fems. Not to mention my rooms a damn wind tunnel with all those 18" floor fans (3 total + ac + large can filter in middle of room).

Do i jus let it flower and chop the flowers off jus before they bust a nut into my air circulation system? >.>

Sir KK
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
I like your style Doc, always have, including the long posts, and not just because they make mine look less abnormal :D

Sure, and I was explicitly talking about aiming for max yield over time and per run and not what makes a more desirable pheno or "happier" plants. If max yield were my goal I'd be growing in my tubes (NFT), veg on 24hr, flower with the longest photoperiod.... but it's not, so I grow organic in soil and flower 11/13 flower (less electricity while still giving me plenty till next harvest).

You mentioned that in a previous post too, forgot to reply to that: I certainly think that's a valid reason to try 11/13. Credit for that approach goes especially to DJ Short imo, he has old posts about it at another more respectable grow forum, probably wrote something about it in his book too. I would not run a pure haze on 13/11 for example... but then those don't really need a veg period either. He wrote that to suggest being able to select more sativa dom phenos earlier on though, i.e. for breeding purposes. I disagree when it comes to growing for max yields. For that it makes a lot more sense to run 13/11 and select towards plants that can handle a longer photoperiod. Just as we can still produce enough food to prevent the world from starving largely because we select and breed plants that can take up and process more nutes, not feed the same plants more, or even less.

Also, I don't believe there's a 11/13 pheno that is so much better than what can be found in 12/12 or 13/11 phenos and justifies the decreased lighting requirement. Surely the same taste, cannabinoids, structure and yield can be found in one of the many other hybrids. Same reason clone-only strains that hermie should not exist. At most, it (the hermie or the 11/13 pheno) has desirable genes that should be bred into a better variety (breeding out the gene(s) that mask the desirable gene(s) under 12/12).

Have you tried something like 11.5/12.5? Changing the light period half an hour makes a full hour difference between dark and night already and may be enough to get the desired pheno. I got to ask though, does the pheno expression really go further than just leaflet broadness, i.e. is there an actual difference in the bud it produces?

[ offtopic ]
HPS vegs and ripes just fine for the best growers I know and measure with. Experts from philips and gavita as well as the greedy dutch cannabis grower herd have been testing blue to red ratios for decades. HPS>MH but HPS+MH > HPS/MH. And Gavita DE > All :bigjoint:Run a gavita DE and you won't bother with MH anymore. As I mentioned in the Light???? thread I'm aware that most people here have different standards. We grhttp://www.rollitup.org/t/flowering-24-12.881499/page-3#post-11856125ow and count only trimmable nugs. I.e. the part that can be sold. The leafy buds from spreading out an MH so much it produces over 1gpw is close to worthless when you get tens of thousands of competitors growing hard nugs with a high pistil to leaf ratio.
[ / offtopic ]

I grow a lot more plants than I flower, giving me plenty of plants to experiment with. Like this one:
View attachment 3486855
Wish I had a pic from the side to show how much it stretched after 4 days no light. Also notice the halted chlorophyll production...
Oh, thanks!

Gotcha...Yup.

I agree and spoke with DJ this winter about that subject.....As far as expression goes....Yes on several levels other then leaves. It will express some color traits far, far easier to the point of no temp or k manipulations to get response.....bud structure? No, not so much.....I have seen a bit as far as Sat vs Ind in a structural sense BUT, feel that is really pulling on the cross percentage traits from the breeding.....S1's never change,,,,F1's stay tight but, pheno's are distinct and easier to see earlier (I think - but that might be years of looking at them involved too) F2's begin the slide into the multi pheno world......I have to say that I disagree a bit with German gen's calling back crossing F1's to P1's as real F2's as I think they fall closer to F1's and even tighter more distinct when you find the pheno's ,,,, as opposed to lot's of specific trait pheno's in F2's of the normal 1x1 = 2...

Agreed!

I shall......sounds fun for this winters runs...

Thanks I needed that - going through "I want that now symptoms" was depressing me....lol The LIGHT??? thread is simply marvy!!

That is a very interesting plant.....at a quick and I mean quick glance I thought "Ir" def and then looked at it! Nope, it's not making Chloro....and I had to reread the text to confirm.....bitch'in learning curve your work'in there!

Peace on Bro!

Doc
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Also one of them turned out to be male :(
Of course it was the bag seed of some super random fire i had from my veeery first run. Havent kill it yet, but i see the lil balls forming.

Any ideas?

I cud try to collect pollen but im scared to be honest. Ive always just chopped males or ran fems. Not to mention my rooms a damn wind tunnel with all those 18" floor fans (3 total + ac + large can filter in middle of room).

Do i jus let it flower and chop the flowers off jus before they bust a nut into my air circulation system? >.>

Sir KK
No dudes in your crib...unknown genetics bad juju!

Gotta learn to sit on your porch with a shotgun to keep the dudes away from your daughters!
 
Last edited:

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
we seem to be on the same path, I just bought the 10k 600w mh and have been running it for about a week, and that damn thing is BRIGHT... makes my 600w hps look like a 400w all of a sudden, like dwarfs the light, it's weird, and sure I understand its all about the visible light, but still, it's insane, almost seems twice as bright.
I got my acetylene welding glasses to check it out, and you can hardly see anything on the hps side, but the mh side I can see like the plants easily.
I cannot wait to see what this will do to my plants...
BUT
mofo is HOT, I don't have the reflector glass in, and the bulb is considerably hotter than the hps, granted the hps is in a sealed air-cooled reflector.. but still.. anyways I have an angled fan blasting the bulb
insane bulb though, so far i'm impressed... but we'll see.
for the record I used to run a 400w mh and a 600w hps together for yrs.
best (in my experience) is two 600w hps with a 400 w mh in the middle overlapping light patterns.
I got mine on amazon, not too expensive either.
I don't know.....I may yet but it would only be for the last 2-3 weeks and be 1K's......Sativieds right.....I'm doing really good with my HPS really......you know, even after 41 years of this,,,,you still try to make it better some way.....You have this little "doubt" troll on your shoulder sometimes, whispering BS in your ear....."the grass is greener over here"....

Doc
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
I don't know.....I may yet but it would only be for the last 2-3 weeks and be 1K's......Sativieds right.....I'm doing really good with my HPS really......you know, even after 41 years of this,,,,you still try to make it better some way.....You have this little "doubt" troll on your shoulder sometimes, whispering BS in your ear....."the grass is greener over here"....

Doc
hah totally, first grow was in 1989, and I've tweaked my techniques more in the last 5 yrs than I did in all the previous yrs combined...
BUT... pretty sure my herb now is better than then... but also the genetics have gotten pretty crazy in the last ten yrs.
 

Kush Killington

Well-Known Member
On a brighter note. How bout a lil root porn ;)

image.jpg

Found a super fast red mite on this ones pot. It was barely visible. I got it to run on my finger and LOST it... But then found it haha and squished it. This is the 2nd one ive seen. The first one was MUCH bigger but just as fast and on the bottom of a different pot. Didnt look like a root aphid. And niether did the small one. Soil mite? Looked like one of those lil red mites you see out on the streets. But not fuzzy.

Hmm...

Sir KK
 

Kush Killington

Well-Known Member
Update.

Iight its been 1 week since i started this so here's some update pics

First my veg plants:
image.jpg
Crazy roots. Same plant as below. Was just trasnplanted yesterday.

image.jpg
Tallest plant standing at 32"s at almost week 7.

image.jpg
Bushest plant. About 2ft tall. Never topped but she bushed out like crazy.

image.jpg
Whole tent. 5, 7 weekers and 4 seedlings/clones.
Smaller 2 in the right top corner are still in 1 gal pots (i know, 7 weeks... Im lazy)

And now my flowering Babes:
image.jpg
The one in the front is new since last wed.

image.jpg Sugar punch.

image.jpg
Frankebberry (mad scientist x jackberry)
Let her soil dry before transplant and she burned. They all burn if i let em dry a lil lol.

image.jpg
Another Frankenberry (mad scientist x jackberry).

image.jpg
This one was an SP runt. Had wierd leaves and was much smaller then the others but is doing great now :)

Plants are pisitling up yet. Internodes are tight but they sure are growing a good amount. I have to re tie them back every 2 days to compensate for the growth. They putting on several inches overall (multiple tops) per day it seems. Hope all goess well to the end of flower :)

Next time they shud look different cause i plant to raise them up to the bottom of the screen. I was doing some trimming and realized how silly it was to have them so low and grow up into the light when, in vert, they will grow IN to the light, not so much up. Lesson learned. Grow plants horiztonal to about the desired height before flowering vertical.

Sir KK
 
Top