For All Cap Ebb and Grow Users

there both plugged into the controller right ? ( made that mistake myself)...I dont know why else it would not pump back out...does your elbow have the hole pointing down ? on the rezi ?...and or is it clogged ?.. it has to be plugged in right though cause your saying that it does turn on after you touch it... it sounds like your sensor is faulty no ?? i'd give it a nice but gently cleaning..im stumped...sorry brotha

Yeah, they're plugged into the controller and the hole on the elbow is pointing down in the rez. Fill cycle works fine, but the drain pump does not switch on automatically once the drain cycle begins. I have to physically touch/move the sensor/float a bit, and then the drain pump turns on. I'm thinking the float isn't floating properly to turn on the sensor, as the sensor and the pump obviously work fine at some point, it must be mechanical. Maybe lifting my buckets will help??

I'll admit I'm a dumbass, anyone else drop everything in the 55 gallon drum, So far mixing cups, both testers and tonite my damn cellphone. lol.. Bet you could start a whole thread, I'm sure I'm not the only one.

I was thinking of buying a couple expansions to veg in then go straight to flower without transplanting, anyone else doing this? Is there a cheaper/ better way, seems easy enough except the cost of the expansions which seem a little pricey. Thanks alot

Hey whats up WaterDog..lol..cant say that ive dropped anything in there yet..but im sure just cause i said that I will now.... The only problem I see with that is space...But if you got the space...hell why not i guess...I personally dont see it as being that cumbersome plus..I like to throw a plant in betwwen in each bucket..in pots.....

WaterDog said:

I'll admit I'm a dumbass, anyone else drop everything in the 55 gallon drum, So far mixing cups, both testers and tonite my damn cellphone. lol.. Bet you could start a whole thread, I'm sure I'm not the only one.

I was thinking of buying a couple expansions to veg in then go straight to flower without transplanting, anyone else doing this? Is there a cheaper/ better way, seems easy enough except the cost of the expansions which seem a little pricey. Thanks alot

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let me list the things....

• spray bottles
• screw drivers
• ph tester
• scissors (reg)
• scissors (fiskers)
• paint mixing cups
• measuring needles
• screws

i'm sure there is more. the issue is i need more shelf space and that lid is just sitting there all pretty and white waiting for someone like me to place something on it while working lol

hey people running the E&G that had issues with the brain not switching cycles how did you fix this??????

i setup my system to go on and off every 15 min 24/7 for a few days when i dumped about a quart of 35% h2o2 into about 15 gal in the res to clean the pipes between runs and i noticed the last few days it's getting stuck and not draining! i'd rather have it not fill then forget to drain that shit is dangerous. i'm only one run in so i hope i can get it replaced or something it should have a warranty i would think.

why are you running it 15 on 15 off?????

Str8Dank said:

hey people running the E&G that had issues with the brain not switching cycles how did you fix this??????

i setup my system to go on and off every 15 min 24/7 for a few days when i dumped about a quart of 35% h2o2 into about 15 gal in the res to clean the pipes between runs and i noticed the last few days it's getting stuck and not draining! i'd rather have it not fill then forget to drain that shit is dangerous. i'm only one run in so i hope i can get it replaced or something it should have a warranty i would think.

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Call R&M supply and get it swapped out. Don't dick with it if it's new. Just call them and explain. You will have to send yours in first. They will pay shipping both ways

Well, I finally tinkered with the sensor/float long enough that I think I solved the non-draining problem. The controller has two floats towards the bottom. The one towards the front of the controller is supposed to be at an angle, the other one which is slightly higher needs to be perfectly straight. Both CAP and my local hydro shop helped me out big time. I finally just got a level and made sure everything was perfectly level and straightened out the float. Drained as it was supposed to. Don't think the issue will come up again, even if it goes crooked again, as I purchased an a/c unit to control my heat problem and have it sitting on top of my controller. The minor vibration of the a/c unit should be enough to vibrate the sensor if need be.
With the heat and drain problems fixed, my plants are starting to love this system. Amazingly quick growth in just two days of running the system properly, although a bit fat and stubby (might be the BBC strain, idk). I'm running Lucas Formula (just FLB), so I'll probably be topping off the rez with a bit extra N (probably FLM). Sigh....although everything is running fine now, I hate the stress of things going wrong. Had my dog not massacred my younglings, I would've had the time to fully setup and test the system BEFORE transplanting. Always something.

www.horticulturesource.com has the Sentinel Ebb & Flow system which is scheduled to be delivered on April 21, 2010. Ive already placed my order and cant wait to receive it.

http://www.horticulturesource.com/sentinel-sentinel-modular-ebb-flow-growing-system-mef-1-p7755/?osCsid=f9ce12c78ff71576b48e75f64e63691e

dude i dont think you should keep electrical equipment near your controller, i heard of floats failing because they are megnetic and metals and electronics near by is no good. just sayin i heard this

morrisgreenberg said:

dude i dont think you should keep electrical equipment near your controller, i heard of floats failing because they are megnetic and metals and electronics near by is no good. just sayin i heard this

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The a/c is mostly plastic, but I'll keep an eye on it. It's running great so far.

speaking of electronic interference. I have a hanna grochek ph/tds/temp continuous readout meter. The tds and temp probes are seriously interfered with by electrical fields. When I had the meter itself mounted fairly near a 600 watt ballast, the readings were widely swinging in a matter of seconds and the temp read consistently 12 or 15 degrees more than it could possibly be. I've observed the same effect in a res where I have a continuously running pump. The magnetic field surrounding a mag-drive pump is enough to seriously warp readings from your meters. Unplug the pumps, or relocate your probes, as this can cause serious errors in nuting your plants.

Just sharing

the tramp said:

The a/c is mostly plastic, but I'll keep an eye on it. It's running great so far.

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how do you figure? if i am not mistaken you have a compressor that is made of metal and a condensor thats like a radiator, unless your housing is plastic i dont see how this is possible.

So i just got my new ebb and gro set up with 24 buckets, right out of the box two buckets are cracked and i need to replace does anyone know if home depot or lowes carries buckets that fit into this system?

Also shnkrmn: i read about the exact same thing on another thread on here were he had to hide his meter behind the Mylar in his grow room. i deffenitlay think it is an odd thing.

https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/316440-kittys-6000-watt-ebb-flo.html

sucks about the buckets. There is some kind of warranty so they shoudl send you those. Also, it takes a bit to get setup so you'll probably not need those 2 buckets anyways. Also on ebay there is someone selling an upgraded version of the buckets in a set of 6 that have more quality plastic.

Hello fellow CAP users.

I am a newb and confused. This is my first grow and i'm 2 weeks into it.

I'm running 12 buckets under a 1000 MH, 3 feet above plants. I've got two strains here, Mazar and GDP. The GDP is a new addition yet immediatley took on the nutrient burn symptoms as the rest of the plants ( leaf tips burning and yellowing/ stunted growth). Originally i was running the plants at 5ml of each nutrients (using basic GH nutes). After the plants started showing burn i cut it in half then i reduced bloom to .6 ml when they still continued to show burn. I realized that i was waaaaay over watering for the majority of the grow, which i think majorly caused this problem and didnt read the instruction properly. Frankly i'm surprised they're doing as good as they are. I've recently fixed that (3 days ago) and am flooding 4 times only during lights on. I've got 55 gals of rez water. I'm running hard water. I've kept the ph consistently between 5.8-6.2

I believe what i have found my grow in, is the throws of toxic salt build up. That or its a nitrogen deficiency or some type of nute lock out. Maybe all three! Fuck my life.

All the plants are exhibiting droopy ness with claw on most all older and medium growth types. Aswell purple color is occuring on all the top parts of the plant stems. There are two plants (mazars, shiney bright perky bitches in the pics) that seem to be doing alright considering the major amount of stress they've undergone, but exhibit what i think is salt overdose even on the new plant growth.

Also you can see the bluish white residue powder film on the inner sides of the buckets and on top of the lower leaves.

What say you wise men?? Is this toxic salt build up or nute burn, or deficiency, and if so how do i get it the fuck outta here?? Your advice is indispensable to me at this point. Thank you.

Relax TheLotusSeed, good thing you have friends here. tthis is the reason i hate flora series, but since you have them you should try running the lucas formula, it only requires you use micro and bloom nutes throughout the whole grow cycle, you can scratch the grow from your mix. look at this link its very easy to do
https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/4387-lucas-formula.html

as for toxic salt build up no worries bro, most likely the 2 strains you have are taking those nutrients differently, i see one plant is yellow and another dark green, besides it will take more than that for any one of the minerals to become toxic. that powder on the clay pellets is just salt , but the stuff on your leaves does not look kool at all, it may be PM. if i was in your shoes i would first cut back the floods to 3 times during lights on, in a week bump it up to a feeding every 4 hours, a week after that a feed every 3 hours. as i said before i hate GH nutes and not so crazy about Lucas formula, but it looks like Lucas is right up your alley, using anything close to GH's recipe will have plants look exactly like yours do even if you run at lower strength. flush once a month with plain water for 2 days to get rid of all that white residue. get the box of baking soda out of your fridge, mix a tsp (5ml) to a quart of water and spray the plants, if it is powdery mildew then this should hold it in its tracks for now

i have just seen ur pics droopy yellow bottom leaves burnt edges, it loolks like ur too dry try moving a fan directed at ur light lower your newts man and dont and u see over fert eges u llook like ur over watering toomuch im not dissing and trying to help u figure it out,ur in hydro so drop ph to 6 and alter nate to 5.8 to 6.2 as this will help ur roots have a stronger medium to ph ie like fan on moving stem, you willneed to look up osmosis to get a understanding try a quarter nut mix for a couple of drains increasing to about 60% and is u see a pic up hold the dilute mix and read ur plant yellow leaves nute proble, wilt overwater lleaves pulling in too dry so on and so on i hope i can help u ill stick about n try help as much as poss look at my thread i have just made a dual water chamber i need imput too cheers. tenbob

oh yea if ur using folige spray are u rinsing after may explaing salt on leaves ?