If I were to take some auto flower/marijuana hybrid seedlings which turn out to be male, and pollinate a non-auto flowering strain that i have flowering (like bubblegum), would the seeds produced carry the auto flower trait as a dominate trait in the offspring. Or is auto flowering only achieved by directly pollinating from ruderalis with a non auto flowering marijuana female plant?
if you take an auto flower and mix with a non auto, i am sure some of the auto traits would be passed along... depending on how much dominance is passed on will depend on how much of the auto traits are passed.. it may take some back crossing with the original auto male to achieve a really good auto trait.. but it can be done.. i just cant promise that all of the first gen off springs would be identical and have similar traits.. some may have more auto than not and visa versa.. it may take a few gens before it becomes stable..
i am not really on solid ground when it comes to genetics.. i know enough to get by.. but not enough to become a breeder myself... i hope the answer helped out tho..
I have a question. can someone go a little more in depth about how to trim plants during veg period? I'm not familiar with the terms yet and its a little confusing.
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trimming is a no no.. well at least in my book.. the only time i remove any foliage on my own is if it is over 50% damaged or if i am lollipopping my plant... and with that i will tell you the terms and ways to prune your girl...
lollipopping - just because i mentioned it already.. this is done at the end of vegg beginning of flowering... the idea is to remove the lower 1/4 to 1/3 of the plant (at the main stalk) so that the plant concentrates on making larger buds where the lighting is best, rather than waste energy making little buds at the bottom of the plant that wont amount to much in the end at all... imagine a lollipop on a stick and thats somewhat what the plant is like... bare lower stem.. filled out top..
LST - low stress training.. basically it is tieing branches as they grow out in a way to maximize lighting... you are training your plant to grow how you want it to grow... i copied a picture that shows the basic idea.. but there is no right or wrong way when it comes to how you tie it..
topping - topping is simply cutting the top of your plant off, or any shoot that comes off the main stem, 1 or 2 internodes down... internodes are where branches extend from the main stem... so count 1 or 2 sets of branches down an cut it off... this will produce two buds at the site instead of one... or, if done early in veg, will branch the plant into 2 at that point..
FIMing - FIM (fuck, I missed) is similar to topping but much less stressful on the plant.. instead of cutting the top through the stem, you remove some (ideally about 80%) of the newest growth at the very end of the stem or branch... if you look at the branch tips you can see where all the growth grows out from... if you remove the growth bud (not a flower bud... just the nub where all the new growth is) that is there you end up with the same affect as topping.... you can cut or pinch it off.. either way.. i like pinching.. the uneveness tends to give a better possibility of more than 2 tops.. i would post pics of how to do it (its hard to explain the growth nub thing) but im flowering.. ill try to get some up next veg period tho.. which doesnt help now..
SOG - sea of green is basically just growing a bunch of small plants, such as clones that are straight into 12/12... this allows for a lot of smaller plants in an area... which means you dont have to veg them out at all.. which means a faster turn around..
Scrog - this is growing with a screen over the top of the plants.. as the branches grow through the screen you weave them back through the screen so that eventually the entire screen is covered... this will, in the end, give you only colas that grow through the screen...
super cropping - super cropping is easiest... its my personal favorite pruning technique.. to do it you simply squeeze the stem between your finger and thumb until you feel it give.. then turn your hands 90 degrees and do the same.. this will allow the stem above the point to bend over.. the reason you do this is that the growth below that point will start pushing upwards..
i think thats about it.. any other questions just ask.. oh.. and these all should be done during veg or no later than 2 weeks into flower...
I have very hard water where I live and I do not have a way to test solids in my water. Any suggestions as to using distilled or spring water would be appreciated. I am running a DWC hydro setup. Please let me know what works for you. Thanks!
i would go with distilled over spring water.. spring water may contain minerals and the such.. distilled or reverse osmosis (RO preferably) are the best to use...
Germinating:
When germinating your seeds do you prefer to plant them as soon as the seed pops and is showing some root or do you think the tap root should be allowed to develope for 24 hrs or so?
when i grew soil i soaked the seed in water for 24 hours, and then put it straight into dirt in a dixie cup.. i then watered the soil until it was saturated and let it go... i put it about 1/4 to 1/2 inch down..
with the hydro setup i have i do the same thing.. except instead of soil i put the soaked seed into a rockwool cube or root riot cube..
if you are paper towling it, i would suggest letting the tap develope a little bit... 1/4" is plenty...
You are the best in my book. Not just your knowledge, but your positve attitude.
I've been following the golden rule of TELL NOONE about your grow, so it's fun to have someone to chat with. Also, getting lots of helpful advise has made all the difference this time around. I tried taking some pics myself and had some of the same difficulties you did with color rendition, etc. I didn't use a microscope but rather the macro setting on my camera. Some were not half bad. I'll post soon. Would like to get your comment.
Later.
just let me know when they are up bro!! be happy to check em out..
simpsamp, thank you so much for your time. I really appreciate your time. I have a PH tester, just a cheapy that I bought online. Do you think that might be sufficient, or is PH one of those absolutely critical variables that you need to cough up a bill or two for the really good ones? I'm assuming for a newb, grow I'll be fine w/ the cheapy. Quick question, I found a fairly simple hydro system online. 20 gal. reservior, w/ 6 sites for 3" netted pots. Top feed drippers. Main question: what type of quality should you expect from a yield in a teeny 3" netted pot. Hopefully, I'm dead wrong, but wouldn't those ladies need more than that small amount of space? No need to transplant to a larger ebb & flow or something? Again, I thank you for your feedback & would really appreciate any & all comments. I really want to make a move to procure my gear (this drip system, or the flow trays I mentioned in the first). Just need to hear your thoughts on the 3" pots. Thanks homey!! Lastly, should I cough up some dough for some flou's to get the seedlings started, or should I be fine running the HPS. Alright, sorry, one more. You mentioned that the mh bulb would not be as efficient & perhaps I could run the hps the entire time. Is the mh not better for the early stages? For future reference, on non-auto's would a mh be better for veg growth. So sorry, really really lastly, what's your opinion on hps bulbs. How important are the "lux" brand bulbs (approx.$100), compared to the $20 ones. Sure ya get what you pay for, but whats the deal. What type of bulb do you use if you don't mind? Thanks a ton again for everything!!
if going with hydro a good ph meter is a must... if the ph is off your plants will experince nute lock out... so unless you are going with soil, spending the money on a good ph meter and ec/ppm meter is important..
the net pots are used just to hold the plant.. the roots grow out of the nets downwards... believe me when i say you dont need to worry about root size or quality when it comes to this... a 3" pot with the setup you said will more than give you a huge root system and a very quality plant...
the HPS is ok to germ if you want.. just keep it a distance aways.. floros are much easier and forgiving tho...
MH is good for veg.. and hps is good for flowering.. but hps can be used straight through.. and puts off much less heat... the choice is yours if you want to use the MH.. just make sure you have a digital ballast that can run either bulb if or a conversion ballast/bulb...
same with the autos.. you can use MH to veg.. but will want to switch to hps for flower.. so starting with hps makes sense.. it really is up to the grower..
the brand of bulb you get doesnt matter... horticulture bulbs put off a lower K rating than regular hps bulbs you get from lowes or home depot.. so you can get some benefits from that.. but the actual brand or horti. bulb you get wont matter.. i use optilume hps bulbs myself.. they work great... and are about 20 to 30 less than lux bulbs...
thanks simpson on the input about the bulbs you saved me a couple of bucks, because the standard 400watt hps bulb was free and the hortilux 400watt hps bulb is like 90.00 bucks.
gotta love saving money!! glad to help
Ebb and flow system watering for 10 minutes every 3 hours.
