bgoldwater
Member
thanks real helpfull. any pics on sexing them
For all new growers with questions... Tons of information and answers..
- Thread starter simpsonsampson420
- Start date
simpsonsampson420
Well-Known Member
your best bet is to put the exhaust fan at the end of the exhaust so that it pulls the air through the lights instead of pushing.... it will run much more efficiently that way...
the carbon filter would be fine at the beginning of the lights... really it doesnt matter where in the line you put it....
you have the right idea on running the duct... again main thing is keeping it as straight as possible..
yeah, you can go ahead and start feeding them 1/4 nutes.. get them girls started off well..
as far as drip cycle.. try 10 on, 30 off to start with... we'll watch for sag.. it will tell us how they are doing... if the medium is moist and the plant is drooping we'll know it needs cut back some.. if the lower part of the plants start to droop some while the tops stay out we'll know they need fed a bit more.. if they stay nice and faned out we'll know they are golden..
alright.. so it sounds like you are in the clear to start feeding again.. give them a 1/2 strength dose to get them started again and go full strength after that... do you know what the ppms of the run off is??
keep an eye on the ph and the run off ppms to know how they are eating... as long as things are staying balanced things should be good.. feeding may have to be adjusted as needed.. but since things are back in line you should be good...
as far as feeding and flushing... in my experiences i have continously cut the amount of time i flush down every time i harvest... i keep feeding stronger and stronger solutions, further and further into harvest.. to the point i only flush for 48 hours.. now this varries slightly since im in hydro.. but the point im getting to is flushing is not a needed part of growing... its hippie logic... i wont bore with all the reasons why... but i will say that the last couple weeks can offer the most swelling.. and cutting nutes during that time can reduce potential harvest.. up to 15% i would guess... the best thing i can say is try an experiment with a couple plants.. cutting feeding to 1 plant 2 weeks before harvest... cut feeding to another one at 1 week.. and dont stop feeding one at all.. see which yields the most (since they arent clones they will varry some either way.. but you should be able to get a general idea) and if you can honestly tell a difference between them... i will bet you wont...
alright.. first for sound http://www.wormsway.com/detail.aspx?t=prod&sku=DM610&AC=1
as for your second question, yes that would work.. the fan can easily pull that and still make the 90 degree turn upwards... not a full u turn (as in 180 degrees).. but 90 to 120 for sure..
glad you enjoyed...
i dont have any pics saved at all... but its pretty easily distiguishable...
males will explode with what look like grape clusters all over it... you wont see any pistils.. just grape clusters...
females will show pistils... the pistils are what we usually refer to as hairs... so if you see white hairs start popping up all over you know its a female...
you will have time enough to successfully sex your males and females before pollination can occur... so if you are growing mixed seeds dont worry about it.. you'll know way before it can happen.. just have to keep an eye on things..
showhard2handle
Well-Known Member
Dude thats a pretty diesel ass fan. I am confident that you will have no problem cooling the x2-400 watts, you just have to vent to somewhere totally outside of the room. I only have a 392, and had to buy a "Speedster" speed control thingie cause the damn thing was pullin so hard @ full strength it actually made the area too cold. Granted it's the dead of winter, & will be way diff. in summer, but still). I have only x1-400 watt, and that sppedster has never been higher than 1/3 strength to keep temps in mid 70's.
Good luck w/ the drams with the girlie though. No all about that stuff.My humble 2 cents, if she compainin this much before you even constructed, she gonna flip when she sees the power tools come out. Personally, make sure yall are on the same page or it will indeed suck ass my brother.
Good luck w/ all that. Sampson prob. break off way better solution. Just wanted to chime in, as I was in the same boat a short bit ago.
Stay up!
showhard2handle
Well-Known Member
Hey doc, if you could thru an eye on these pics, that's be sweet.
Got some yellow spots & some weirdness on bout 3 o'' the youngsters.
Is it nute burn?
Again, just been feedin the recipe for Transplanting on "Recipe for Success", so not usin any crazy freaky experimental shit.
Perhaps feeding too much?
Probably dropping a max. of x3 teaspoons of nute solution 2-3 times a day. And they look plenty moist.
I'm goin off the old pointer for takin care of my lawn. THe simple principle that roots need to dry out at some point to create vigorous root development, correct? My only experience thus far is lawn maintenance & plantin grass seed. Ya soak & let dry for twice as long. I have to imagine that basic principle applies correct? A plant is a fukn plant I suppose.
Ramblin, sorry bro, lemme know what ya think & thanks again for sharing the wisdom!
Got some yellow spots & some weirdness on bout 3 o'' the youngsters.
Is it nute burn?
Again, just been feedin the recipe for Transplanting on "Recipe for Success", so not usin any crazy freaky experimental shit.
Perhaps feeding too much?
Probably dropping a max. of x3 teaspoons of nute solution 2-3 times a day. And they look plenty moist.
I'm goin off the old pointer for takin care of my lawn. THe simple principle that roots need to dry out at some point to create vigorous root development, correct? My only experience thus far is lawn maintenance & plantin grass seed. Ya soak & let dry for twice as long. I have to imagine that basic principle applies correct? A plant is a fukn plant I suppose.
Ramblin, sorry bro, lemme know what ya think & thanks again for sharing the wisdom!
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bgoldwater
Member
sweet! one major concern down heres another.....from what ive read if my space for height is limited to less than 5 foot should i keep it pruned to about 1-n-a-half to 2 foot until i start to flower? if so do u prune from the top always or should u get branches too? thanks for the info big help
seemeat420
Active Member
Yeah show she took my balls tonight when she seen the big ass fan. She was soooo pissed. I was like you said you was cool and she was like this big ass fan means your box is going to be so huge. I told her it was going to be big and she said okay but now she's trying to play dumb like she didn't know or say that. She said that if we get a house then I can go as big as I want so now Im about to do whatever it takes to get one because I am going to turn a whole freaking room into a grow paradise. But anyways she caved and then I caved like a pussy after a very long and heated fight and I told her I would only use one light and make the room half the size but really I am going to make it a little bigger than that anyways, fnck it. So I am thinking that if its only venting one light then maybe it can make a 180 turn to the top of the box. I don't know. If anyone could offer some advice. I think I will make it big enough to hold 4 or 5 nine inch square pots that are 3 gallons apiece lenght wise and two depth wise making a total of 8 to 10 pots. That's still probably more than she's cool with but I think we should meet halfway and she will be super happy when she sees the harvests of sticky sweet buds so maybe she will leave me alone.
seemeat420
Active Member
Oh she keeps saying that the police are going to be tipped off by the power company and I keep telling her thats not true but if someone can offer me some truth about this it would help. Maybe I can even show her some evidence to prove my case.
simpsonsampson420
Well-Known Member
did that start appearing after the transplant or prior too?? it looks like a def setting in actually... you said the roots were going nuts right?? so that means they are ready to eat a lot.. i am almost sure it is just a sign we need to up the ppms of the feed solution.. at least in the boost section of things.. cal-mag def is what you are seeing..
thats the thing about growing... ever grow is different, but the same... every plants need.. every strains need.. are going to vary slightly.. so you have to be looking out for signs of anything that will tell you...
as far as watering goes... there are exceptions to the medium going dry... namely in a hydro environment... most of the problems associated with root rot are of course related to over moist medium.. but mainly due to the medium not draining properly and holding enough oxygen for the roots.. its when the roots suffocate and cant absorb liquid due to running out of dissolved oxygen that problems take hold.. in hydro environments its different.. since we keep our water highly oxygenated (via air stones and such) root systems can survive longer in a moister environment without trouble...
a perfect example of this is my current grow... long story short the shop didnt order me enough coco coir to fill all my sites for my new vegging girls... i had a few 6x6x6 rooting cubes (exactly the same as your rockwool cubes) laying around.. so i threw a few plants in those and into the sites... more or less trying to take up enough volume in the pot that i could stretch the coco i had to fill all the spots... anyways... i am flooding my system 4 times a day for 15 minutes each flood... so the rockwool is staying pretty fuck moist/wet all day.. as well as the coco coir.. but since its a highly oxygenated environment the roots are able to flurish... another great example of this is (and truly the most examplory of it) DWC, where the roots are sitting in water the entire grow... as long as your solution is well aerated then things are fine.. they look plenty healthy.. they just are asking for more food... you may want to try to increase to a 4th or 5th dripping cycle and see if they can handle it... that would increase the amount of food available to them.. or just up the EC on the next change and go from there.. if the problem keeps worsening tho you may need to change things out sooner than later...
it depends on what kind of pruning you do... if you are topping the plant then you just do the main stem at the top... if you are doing something like super cropping or LST you do/can do the entire plant.... super cropping is the best pruning technique IMHO... mainly because it makes the plant push those lower branches upwards.. which means more bud sites to flower, and less wasted plant... but its up to the grower what they want to do...
alright... so first as far as the fan goes..... it is in your best interest and the best interest of the fan to try to avoid a 180 degree bend... unless the fan is set up to pull instead of push the air.. then its less of an issue.. but the efficiency at which your fan does its work is going to be cut drastically.. so you may end up having to run it full power with the same results as someone running one at half power or so... i cant be 100% sure tho.. i just know it will run less efficiently...
as far as your power bill... they wont even be able to tell that you have anything going on.. here are a few things that will take up as much power as you are using that you have in your place right now... TV... computer/computer monitor.... xbox/ps3.... space heater... 4 standard incandescent lamps (regular lights)... surround sound system... hell.. most surround sound systems now and days are 1500w... thats almost the equivalent of 4 x 400w lamps... long story short they will have NO idea or no suspicion...
and to further make things easier.. ill let ya know this.... it is almost impossible now and days for the police to use power consumption as a basis for any type of search warrant or probable cause type search... no obviously if your elec bill is running in the 1000s or something and your neighbors is only 300 then there is an issue.. but there are so many things that are plugged in and used that suck a shit ton of power anymore that trying to use electric consumption as a tip off is damn near impossible... the 3 main causes of people getting busted are....
1) they told someone who told someone who told someone ect.. so either the police get tipped off by a pissed off ex or enemy of the grower.. or someone breaks into their place... keep it quite and this is eliminated...
2) odor... the smell isnt dealt with properly... fresh bud smells much different than cultivated and cured bud.. take proper precaution to eliminate/mask smells and your golden here... also... cold helps to keep the smell down.. the warmer things get the more fragrant things will become...
3) light leaks and/or exhaust leaks... the glow of an hps is pretty identifiable... if you know what your looking for... some growers dont seal their room up right.. causing light leaks that may be seen outside... if you can see the light and start timing it from outside that can be cause enough.. (ie seein it on for 12 off for 12..) that an exhaust leaks that can be seen with thermal imaging... the only hot air spout that a house should have is the dryer vent.. if a thermal imaging copter can find multiple exhaust spouts on a house, or one that seems to be timed (ie 30 on 30 off type thing) it can lead to more of an investigation into things.. but these are not common things.. mostly on HUGE opps do these come into play...
seemeat420
Active Member
hey thanks simpson. yeah I have been trying to explain that but it helps to hear it from fellow growers and the thing you said about the power consumption of household appliances will help out a lot. I am going to try just doing a 90 turn so that I can run a fan speed controller and make it less noisy as well as less power.
bgoldwater
Member
giant help simpsonsamson....how tall should i let it get b4 i start topin it? i have not yet planted i feel i need all the info i can get b4 i try. how many times and how far back can u trim and how many days b-tween trimmings should i wait on a 24/0 light schedule?
showhard2handle
Well-Known Member
Hey bro, I believe your prognosis to be spot on.
Those spots did indeed develop AFTER the transplant to the cubes.
If you believe it is nute def. I'm sure that is again indeed the case.
I've just been hittin 'em with the "Transplanting" regimine.
Just hittin them this morning w/ 1/4 strength VEG nutes, which got some nice micro, grow & calcium in there.
I bet they will clear up in a day or two.
From there, once I decide on best nute mix, I'll start the drippers. on the cycles you suggested.
Bet you would be way over it, but I actually don't mind the hand watering. Actually kinda dig it. Prob. get old in a few more days though.
Hypothetically, I suppose it has to be possible to grow hydro w/ just hand watering. I suppose you have to have some sort of return for drainage.
Yeah anyway, thanks bro, spot on info, & I'm on it!
Those spots did indeed develop AFTER the transplant to the cubes.
If you believe it is nute def. I'm sure that is again indeed the case.
I've just been hittin 'em with the "Transplanting" regimine.
Just hittin them this morning w/ 1/4 strength VEG nutes, which got some nice micro, grow & calcium in there.
I bet they will clear up in a day or two.
From there, once I decide on best nute mix, I'll start the drippers. on the cycles you suggested.
Bet you would be way over it, but I actually don't mind the hand watering. Actually kinda dig it. Prob. get old in a few more days though.
Hypothetically, I suppose it has to be possible to grow hydro w/ just hand watering. I suppose you have to have some sort of return for drainage.
Yeah anyway, thanks bro, spot on info, & I'm on it!
choempi
Well-Known Member
I could post in great detail as far as specific grow specs, but it would be long posts, and I don't know if that would be appropriate
, Would that be a thread hijack?Not ready to start any sort of grow journal yet, would that be OK
? 
simpsonsampson420
Well-Known Member
the duct muffler will make it damn near silent if you can afford one... and a 90 turn is MUCH better than a 180... if you can do it go for it!!
alright... topping can be done after you see about 4 or 5 node sets and pretty much can be done after everytime the plant heals itself.. maybe 5 or 6 days in between... the problem is that topping causes a lot of stress... and the results are limited...
i personally recommend super cropping and FIM'ing as the ideal pruning techniques... both of which will lend themselves to a nice yielding plant.. super cropping will push lower growth up towards the light, strengthen all the limbs, and fatten up your bush... FIM'ing will give multiple tops to each branch its done too while causing almost NO stress at all.. i super crop throughout veg (can almost be done every 4 or 5 days to the entire plant) and then FIM right before flowering..
https://www.rollitup.org/newbie-central/289002-step-step-how-fim.html
https://www.rollitup.org/newbie-central/288113-step-step-how-super-crop.html
it will likely take up to a week to clear up... so dont get too impatient.. when they are young and have defs it takes a little longer for them to recover.. just be patient with them...
here is the problem with hand watering and hydro....... in hydro applications the medium wont hold water as long as soil will... rockwool, jiffy, an coco will hold liquid the longest.. but the plants rate of growth wont allow them to hold enough water for long enough... basically a hydro grown plant consumes 3 or 4 times the water a soil plant does... so lets say you wanted to hand water... you would end up saturating the entire medium almost daily once the plants take off.. if not more... initially its not too bad.. when they are small it takes little water.. but once they get larger and can drink a gallon of water a day by themselves it can get REAL old REAL fast...
post whatever it is you want to post... if it helps get to the answers then its fine! plus i can give a little better answer based on how you have things set up...I could post in great detail as far as specific grow specs, but it would be long posts, and I don't know if that would be appropriate
Not ready to start any sort of grow journal yet, would that be OK
KaleoXxX
Well-Known Member
[youtube]vj6aIK_WXhU[/youtube]
Bitch! You know what I want!
Hahahahaha!
I wanna talk to Samson!
Fly me to the moon like that bitch Alice Kramden!
'Cause it's hard being black and gifted!
Sometimes I wanna throw it all down and get lifted!
thanks for helpin the beginners SS. your the man and you know what your talking about
Bitch! You know what I want!
Hahahahaha!
I wanna talk to Samson!
Fly me to the moon like that bitch Alice Kramden!
'Cause it's hard being black and gifted!
Sometimes I wanna throw it all down and get lifted!
thanks for helpin the beginners SS. your the man and you know what your talking about
showhard2handle
Well-Known Member
I hear ya, yeah watering maturing grils by hand would suck. I should've clarified that I mean't hand watering merely as an intermediary step for the next few weeks untl I can clear out autos & transfer them into the tent w/ the v-drip deal.
Still sounds like a pain in the dick & already have the gear to drip automatically. Just usin some old hindsight to see if I could have spared myself the extra reservior, pump, etc.
I'm sure it's the case for all growers, but tryin to save every possible square inch is extremely important to me.
I totally gonna look like some type of circus act before its all done. Im already havin to pull off some serious acrobatics up in that piece sometimes just to reach shit.
It'll work though, thanks for the insight brotha & have a good weekend!
TIme to do that weekly res. changin.
BTW, I empty that bitch & take out from under v-drip to so i can wipe out all the shit from the edges. It really is remarkable how much & how quickly shit gets cake on the sides.
If I wanted to be lazier, how long could I let the res. go w/ out rinsing & scrubbin out every week.
I imagine most folks prob. run them bitches ragged all the way from start to finish & just add nutes.
I usually use a syphon to get most h2o out, then pour remaining last say 1/2" of water straight down drain.
What if I syphoned out all but that 1/2" of h20 @ bottom & just filled up from there w/ fresh water & nutes. Really would make my life a lot easier, lemme know!
peace
simpsonsampson420
Well-Known Member
hey brotha.. how ya been?? dont spend much time on here anymore except in a few threads.. thanks for the kind words... always nice to feel the efforts are worth it!
alright... so as an advice giver i would say weekly res changes are needed... but..... you can really go up to 2 weeks without a full res change...
now.... here are things to consider.. first is nute usage.. since you dont know how much of what has been ate and is left over, adding new nutes can be somewhat a shot in the dark.. if you top of with new nutes its best to just use 1/4 strength boost and whatever cycle your in... so either boost and gro.. or boost and flower... equal parts....
the main thing tho, is the build up.. first, can i ask if its a slimey build up or just dried up salts?? the slime (if thats what it is) is actually caused be ph down... ill explain more if you want.. nothing bad... if its dried on salts, you have to remember that one, if they break off into the water it will affect the ec/ppm and ph of the water... and those little flakes can get drawn into your pump then clog up your drippers.. its really more important with a v-drip system to keep thing clean so the drippers stay open...
confidence is key.. sounds like you should go for it! and if you ever have any other questions you can always come back and post them.. im more than happy to help!
showhard2handle
Well-Known Member
It's all just been the dried up lookin salts I suppose (looks remnance of a massive money shot, know what I mean?) Sorry to offend anyone's delicate sensibilities, but pretty show there's no offendin you sampson.
So yeah, no algae or green slimey lookin shit. Just the dried up kinda splatter shape round sides & bottom of res. When I remove res. & wash & scrub out, looks almost like some slightly burgundy residue is on towels (similar to hydroton residue when rinsing that shiz). I'm sure those dirty ass balls are prob. still releasin some residue. But dude, I rinsed those bitches for like 2 days, til ALL run off from em was clear water. THen I even soaked balls in root 66, sugar daddy & thrive alive in PH'd water for good measure (even though I'm virtually positive that soakin the hydroton didn't do shit, as I am quite sure that they don't "hold" anything @ all). But was gonna use coco & then changed mind @ the last minute & I'm a bit of a perfectionist I suppose).
PLease do explain whatever else it was regarding the residue explanation you were breaking off. If you type it bro, I will read, & more than likely print to my hard drive for future ref. so it WILL NOT go to waste. All part of my education!!
So thats the residue deal.
Few new queries, for tonight.
1st off. A true SOG, would that be takin seedling (bout the size of mine now, see photo from last night), takin seedling bout that age & switchin right to 12/12?
This is just for future knowledge. Also, whatever age you advise is best for SOG, what would the nute regiment be?
If they are on reduced (1/4 strength) grow nutes, once you switch em to 12/12 do you do a "ween" type thing with them over to 1/4 strength bloom nutes & then increase bloom regiment's strength as the girls enlarge?
Finally, for tonight anyway. my watergarden thats gonna keep the mommie. BTW, think I am gonna keep that wembley shit for x1 of 'em, that shit looks sexy.
Anyway, how much older do my seedlings need to be to go into waterfarm?
And pursuant to our convo. earlier bout waterin & letting shiz dry out (and in essence the fact that hydro is way diff. than conventional wisdom w/ soil). My waterfarm has an air pump that also pumps nute solution up to drip ring for continous drip?? is that kosher?
I would think that those little chickies do not need a constant drip. I guess the h2o farm is a combo of DWC & top feed.
So if I reduce the pump (on a timer) to come on for say 20 mins every hour. The drip ring will not keep drippin on the youngsters, but the soultion will also not continue to bubble vigorously unless pump is still on.
And I think I should just delete everything I just typed as I think I may have figured out while tryin to explain it.
I'll reduce the waterfarm to say 10-15 mins an hour, and then the water aerated in the bottom DWC won't matter if they bubblin or not. Cause once the moms are big enough to need the constant bubblin DWC action, the moms will be big enough to handle the constant drip ring.
Well hell, thanks for lettin me vett that out.
Thanks it all, and I look forward to moe wisdom.
simpsonsampson420
Well-Known Member
lol thanks bro
alright... so first the residue you are seeing is just salts like you said.. the burgundy color is more than likey the color combonation of the nutes all together... the slime i was talking about isnt mold or mildew or anything like that.. its actually caused from ph down and phosphorus... the ph down does something chemically to the phosphorus (super saturates the solution or something) and causes it... so if you ever feel something slimey but dont see algae or anything thats what it is...
SOG is basically just running a bunch of clones, and i suppose you could seedlings too, straight into 12/12... typically tho you want to use clones that are rooted and vegged for about a week.. this will give you ideal SOG conditions..
now.... if you want to SOG grow your best bet would be to switch to general hydroponic nutrients... and get their micro and bloom formulas (from their 3 part line).. you would only need those 2.. not any grow nutes.. and then whatever additives you want.. but for base nutes you would only need the micro and bloom.. the micro has enough nitrogen in it to keep the girls happy.. so you could start hitting them with bloom nutes even while vegging them so they are super ready to flower... i would suggest only using the base nutes prior to actually starting 12/12 tho..
you can throw the little ones in the waterfarm once roots are developed.. once you see roots coming out of the cubes they are good to go.. common sense would try to tell you that they are too young and will get over watered being feed all the time continously... but the truth is that as long as they have 24/0 light to grow under they can handle it... and will even grow faster! the main thing is making them need the water and nutes by making them constantly grow.... try it out... if you are worried tho (which early on it can be a bit nerve racking trying things out while your still trying to grasp everything else.. so i understand if you want to play it safe) you can do like you were saying and that would be fine..
im a little confused on your system tho... doesnt matter tho because what i am going to say will either apply or not... but do the roots stay in the water like a dwc system?? if they do then just leave the pump and everything going all the time... if the roots are sitting in the nutrient solution all the time, turning off the drip ring wouldnt make since because the roots would still be submerged in water... ud just be cutting off potential oxygen for the roots to breath..
seemeat420
Active Member
Hey simpson maybe you can help me out with something else. I was planning on using 9x9x10 inch square pots that are 3 gallons each and my room would be about 24 inches deep and 46 inches wide. That would leave room for 10. What if I did a sog style grow and used like 4 or 5 inch square pots and push the room dimensions to 25 inches deep and 50 inches wide. That would give me room for 72 shorties. What would be a more efficient way of using my room. Sog or normal. What has the potential of giving more. No matter what I do the room will be made of clones so theoretically growth would remain the same. If I do normal I will veg for 2 to 4 weeks, not really sure yet. And I will also take some rectangular pieces of wood and line them with 42 watter cfls and put those on all four sides of the 26 inch long by 13 inch wide super sun 2 air cooled hood.
seemeat420
Active Member
I also meant to say I know that yield depends a lot on environment and strain and other factors but it seems pretty common place for people to get like a half for each one and if you divide 72 by 2 then that gives you 32 wholes. And if you could push it to 1 whole for each one that gives 72 wholes. That's compared to maybe 2 to 3 zips for each of the 10. It seems better to sog but maybe you can elaborate. Also is sog fairly simple.