For all new growers with questions... Tons of information and answers..

simpsonsampson420 · Mar 8, 2010

Vtec9010 said:
Thanks for the info bro and fast response, had to find out how to +rep before I posted again!

So I decided I'll go with 600w hps considering my budget. Which means I will need to set up some sort of ventilation. I'm thinking just intake/outake fans on either side of the dresser which means I would also probably have to have some sort of filter to cut down on the smell. I'm assuming that opening the dresser once a day won't be good enough? I was planning on painting the interior white to get reflection as well.

Looked up that strain on Attitude and it looks pretty delicious.
I was wondering if you had any experience with low ryder?? I'm just interested in it because of the low grow height.

Thanks again, I'm sure I'll have more questions, just hope I don't get too annoying haha.

if you put a hole in the bottom side of the dresser, and another one on the opposite side at the top with an inline fan sucking the air out that would be more than sufficient for exhaust... opening the door once a day wont help.... a 6" fan would be about what you need...

an air cooled hood would be ideal also.. you can do the exhaust 2 ways if you get an air cooled hood.. the above is one option.. or you could run the exhaust straight through the dresser... this way the air that exhausted wont smell... since it would be pulled in from and exhausted to the outside.. if that makes sense at all....

or you could also use an air cooled hood, have it exhaust outside.. but leave part of the hood (1 flange) open... this would be the most ideal so that it exhausts heat but also pulls "dead" air out of the dresser... i hope this makes sense.. i havent smoked anything today so im a little off...

i've grown autos.. but not low ryder autos.. they are decent enough.. and offer good smoke.. but they arent near as strong or yield as much as regular photo strains will...

dont be affraid to ask questions.. its fine!!

showhard2handle said:
Great explanation. SOLD on my end. Sounds like a descent technique to practice/perfect, but not something for breakin my cherry. I'll get a few notches in my belt & then maybe give a whirl.

I believe I have the close up thing down. Well maybe not so much down, I just took some betta close ups for ya. THings are gettin really exciting in there homey. I am absolutely ecstatic. Can barely get my hand (and I'm bout 6-4, - 250 so they big hands) and I can barely get my hand around some of the larger colas, of which there are prob. 4-5. Man I'm pumped & I thank you profusly for all ur help.

Lemme get the pics ready to upload & I slap em up.

Thanks brotha!

sounds like you will have a nice harvest.. im happy for ya bro! congrats! sounds like some real monsters you got!

choempi said:
Sam, where do you get your peroxide and how do you use it in hydro?

its not special or anything.. just plain old brown bottle peroxide... get it at wal mart, target, the grocery, cvs/walgreens... you get the picture.. lol

if you need to clean your system with it use about 10 to 15 ml per gallon of water.. if you need to spray it just throw it in a squirt bottle and mist well with it..

remember this will kill all beneficial microorganisms.. at the roots and/or in organic nutes... so you willl want to use a root inocculant after using this.. or some sort of organic nute to reintroduce beneficials to the roots..

choempi said:
Sorry forgot to ask you also about conditioning rockwool for germinating seed, do you condition it with a purposely low PHed water?

Danger in oversatuatin?

just soak them in a 5.5 ph'd solution... this will pretty much even the rockwool out to around 6.3ish ph...

over saturating the cubes, or leaving them too moist, can cause root rot or stem rot.... after you soak them shake them out a few times to remove a good amount of the moisture in them.. you want them damp.. but not soaked...

Vtec9010 · Mar 8, 2010

simpsonsampson420 said:
if you put a hole in the bottom side of the dresser, and another one on the opposite side at the top with an inline fan sucking the air out that would be more than sufficient for exhaust... opening the door once a day wont help.... a 6" fan would be about what you need...

an air cooled hood would be ideal also.. you can do the exhaust 2 ways if you get an air cooled hood.. the above is one option.. or you could run the exhaust straight through the dresser... this way the air that exhausted wont smell... since it would be pulled in from and exhausted to the outside.. if that makes sense at all....

or you could also use an air cooled hood, have it exhaust outside.. but leave part of the hood (1 flange) open... this would be the most ideal so that it exhausts heat but also pulls "dead" air out of the dresser... i hope this makes sense.. i havent smoked anything today so im a little off...

i've grown autos.. but not low ryder autos.. they are decent enough.. and offer good smoke.. but they arent near as strong or yield as much as regular photo strains will...

dont be affraid to ask questions.. its fine!!

Yeah that makes sense, I got the gist of it anyway haha. Thanks for the hospitality! One more thing I'd just like your input on is supercropping, FIM, and lollipopping,..which would you do in my case to maximize my yeild? or even a combination of them. I've read up on them on your previous posts and looked at the picture tutorials, very helpful by the way. I would reccomend looking at the picture tutorial for anyone who is a little shakey about what to do, it really helps especially if you're more of a visual learner like myself.

choempi · Mar 8, 2010

its not special or anything.. just plain old brown bottle peroxide... get it at wal mart, target, the grocery, cvs/walgreens... you get the picture.. lol

I thought only 35%

if you need to clean your system with it use about 10 to 15 ml per gallon of water.. if you need to spray it just throw it in a squirt bottle and mist well with it..

remember this will kill all beneficial microorganisms.. at the roots and/or in organic nutes... so you willl want to use a root inocculant after using this.. or some sort of organic nute to reintroduce beneficials to the roots..

just soak them in a 5.5 ph'd solution... this will pretty much even the rockwool out to around 6.3ish ph...

over saturating the cubes, or leaving them too moist, can cause root rot or stem rot.... after you soak them shake them out a few times to remove a good amount of the moisture in them.. you want them damp.. but not soaked...[/QUOTE]

showhard2handle · Mar 8, 2010

alright my man, say fuk & threw the 600 watt on the ol credit card & got that en route. Will be here & ready to roll for when autos finish.

Here are some close ups.

Not nearly as nice as I like, fukd w/ the light a little, but still couldn't get some o' the ones I really wanna post. Hopefully these can give ya better idea bout chop & what not.

If not, lemme know, and I'm gonna stick a reg lamp in there or something w/ hps off & see what I can do. Got good camera, just need to make sure I know what i'm doin.

Thanks my man, I hope she's a monster load.

Again, thanks a praise to you my man, you are truly the man.kiss-ass

yeah, also took a pic of a rock wool cube that is pretty indicative of my whole situation. Out o' curiousity, how long can those roots get before it starts to become an un-healthy enviro. for them? You know my timeline. Thanks man

choempi · Mar 8, 2010

if you need to clean your system with it use about 10 to 15 ml per gallon of water.. if you need to spray it just throw it in a squirt bottle and mist well with it..

remember this will kill all beneficial microorganisms.. at the roots and/or in organic nutes... so you willl want to use a root inocculant after using this.. or some sort of organic nute to reintroduce beneficials to the roots..

just soak them in a 5.5 ph'd solution... this will pretty much even the rockwool out to around 6.3ish ph...

over saturating the cubes, or leaving them too moist, can cause root rot or stem rot.... after you soak them shake them out a few times to remove a good amount of the moisture in them.. you want them damp.. but not soaked...[/QUOTE][/QUOTE]

GeeBee3000 · Mar 9, 2010

Hey what's up simpsonsampson420, I got a quick question. I'm just confused about some of the acronyms and definitions used in some post. Such as Ph Balanced water and RO water. Whats does this mean and does PPM have anything to do with these things? Just send me the link.

simpsonsampson420 · Mar 9, 2010

Vtec9010 said:
Yeah that makes sense, I got the gist of it anyway haha. Thanks for the hospitality! One more thing I'd just like your input on is supercropping, FIM, and lollipopping,..which would you do in my case to maximize my yeild? or even a combination of them. I've read up on them on your previous posts and looked at the picture tutorials, very helpful by the way. I would reccomend looking at the picture tutorial for anyone who is a little shakey about what to do, it really helps especially if you're more of a visual learner like myself.

stick to super cropping and FIMing... or LST and FIM... but super croppings much easier... dont worry too much about lollipopping until you can see how your strain does.. if its really touchy for instance it could cause hermies from lollipopping due to stress..

choempi said:
I thought only 35%

whatever regular old household peroxide is

showhard2handle said:
alright my man, say fuk & threw the 600 watt on the ol credit card & got that en route. Will be here & ready to roll for when autos finish.

Here are some close ups.

Not nearly as nice as I like, fukd w/ the light a little, but still couldn't get some o' the ones I really wanna post. Hopefully these can give ya better idea bout chop & what not.

If not, lemme know, and I'm gonna stick a reg lamp in there or something w/ hps off & see what I can do. Got good camera, just need to make sure I know what i'm doin.

Thanks my man, I hope she's a monster load.

Again, thanks a praise to you my man, you are truly the man.kiss-ass

yeah, also took a pic of a rock wool cube that is pretty indicative of my whole situation. Out o' curiousity, how long can those roots get before it starts to become an un-healthy enviro. for them? You know my timeline. Thanks man

im sure after seeing the pics your a few weeks out... definitely no longer prolly around 18 days or so...

they look good tho... very nice first run

glad to hear you went with the 600.. you'll be much happier in the end...

as long as the plant can be supported (ie enough water and nutrients) they will be fine in those cubes until you are ready for them... just make sure there is no mold/algae growing and they arent sitting in water

GeeBee3000 said:
Hey what's up simpsonsampson420, I got a quick question. I'm just confused about some of the acronyms and definitions used in some post. Such as Ph Balanced water and RO water. Whats does this mean and does PPM have anything to do with these things? Just send me the link.

ill be happy to explain this and whatever else you may have questions on...

alright so first is PH balanced water.... water ph varries depending on the source... so anytime you use water to flush a medium or feed with you want to make sure its ph balanced.. by that i simply mean have it in the correct ph area.. 5.5 to 6.5... that way anything that binds with the water molecules (nutrient wise) is available to the plant...

RO water is reverse osmosis water... this is water that is ran through a reverse osmosis machine... basically its just water that has 0ppms... its completely "clean" water... most other waters, especially tap and well waters, have dissolved stuff in them.. using RO water just ensures that the ppm readout you get is all nutrients and nothing that was already in there...

in a round about way they both can be related to ppms... the nutrient strength vs the amount of water can affect ph... and RO water ensures a 0ppm reading to begin with..

hope that helps

showhard2handle · Mar 9, 2010

simpsonsampson420 said:
im sure after seeing the pics your a few weeks out... definitely no longer prolly around 18 days or so...

they look good tho... very nice first run

glad to hear you went with the 600.. you'll be much happier in the end...

as long as the plant can be supported (ie enough water and nutrients) they will be fine in those cubes until you are ready for them... just make sure there is no mold/algae growing and they arent sitting in water

Nice, I'll try to perfect my photo skills to keep ya updated.

I need to start flushin w/ just plain distilled 1 week prior????

Could you refresh my memory on your suggested technique for flush?

Vtec9010 · Mar 9, 2010

Hey Sampson,
Just another quick question for you. You helped me make my decision on the 600w hps light and I just wanted to know a few things. First off, would i use that light from germination until harvest? (If so, how close during germination and veg, because I know you can keep floros close because they don't put out much heat but I wasn't really sure about hps) My budget is a little limited but is a little flexible and I was wondering if I would get better results using differen't types of lights for veg and flowering.
Thanks in advance for helping this noob.

jdizzle22 · Mar 9, 2010

Is yellowing of leaves often caused by a nitrogen deficiency? Because today I noticed that all my plants are starting to get yellowing on large lower leaves. I guess I should have listened when you said to add the growbig if there wasn't much nitrogen in the other 2 ferts. Is this the most likely problem? The biggest one started getting issues again like i said earlier, with the top sets curling in and now the lowers turning yellow. The other 2 plants were perfectly fine in everyway until today I noticed that some of their leaves are losing their shade of green and heading for yellow.

showhard2handle · Mar 9, 2010

Vtec9010 said:
Hey Sampson,
Just another quick question for you. You helped me make my decision on the 600w hps light and I just wanted to know a few things. First off, would i use that light from germination until harvest? (If so, how close during germination and veg, because I know you can keep floros close because they don't put out much heat but I wasn't really sure about hps) My budget is a little limited but is a little flexible and I was wondering if I would get better results using differen't types of lights for veg and flowering.
Thanks in advance for helping this noob.

Hey bro, sampson will obv. get ya proper info. But I would believe that hps is gonna be too strong (actually really interested to get sampson's opinion), but I believe startin under a floro (even a 2' shop light from lowes) will get those little guys above ground for ya, if I recall sampson advised keeping them under floro until sprouts had rooted thru bottom (i was usin rapid rooters). Took bout 8 days, and then straight under hps & things worked beautifully (so far).

I'm a newb breakin my cherry as well. All I can say is you came to the right place. Homeboy is like a mad scientist when it comes to this partic. hobby. He'll get ya covered.

Good luck brotha!

ohmanpiff · Mar 9, 2010

The leaves on my plant are lookin skinnier smaller nd hanging down lifeless what should i do.this is my first time nd im goin crazy.is it normal.

Vtec9010 · Mar 9, 2010

showhard2handle said:
Hey bro, sampson will obv. get ya proper info. But I would believe that hps is gonna be too strong (actually really interested to get sampson's opinion), but I believe startin under a floro (even a 2' shop light from lowes) will get those little guys above ground for ya, if I recall sampson advised keeping them under floro until sprouts had rooted thru bottom (i was usin rapid rooters). Took bout 8 days, and then straight under hps & things worked beautifully (so far).

I'm a newb breakin my cherry as well. All I can say is you came to the right place. Homeboy is like a mad scientist when it comes to this partic. hobby. He'll get ya covered.

Good luck brotha!

Yeah thanks for the input bro! I've been digging around recently and have even found some grows that have been pretty successful with a few CFLs. I have complete faith in Sampson though and you are right, he knows his sh*t.
I've been looking at hps lights and I didn't realize how expensive they are. The bulbs alone aren't too bad (60$ or so) but you need the whole ballast and everything to go with them right?(200-400$) This is going to be an expensive hobby...but still seems worth it to me!
Thanks again for the input sh2h!

simpsonsampson420 · Mar 9, 2010

showhard2handle said:
Nice, I'll try to perfect my photo skills to keep ya updated.

I need to start flushin w/ just plain distilled 1 week prior????

Could you refresh my memory on your suggested technique for flush?

i personally run full strength nutes up until the last 48 hours... then i run plain water...

but you may choose to cut back to 1/4 strength nutes the last 4 or 5 days and flush for 2 or 3 with plain water... or flush with plain water for a week.. its kinda up to you as to what you want to do there..

Vtec9010 said:
Hey Sampson,
Just another quick question for you. You helped me make my decision on the 600w hps light and I just wanted to know a few things. First off, would i use that light from germination until harvest? (If so, how close during germination and veg, because I know you can keep floros close because they don't put out much heat but I wasn't really sure about hps) My budget is a little limited but is a little flexible and I was wondering if I would get better results using differen't types of lights for veg and flowering.
Thanks in advance for helping this noob.

you can use that light from seed to harvest ya... its a little unefficient for small sprouts so you may want some floro lights to get you started there... otherwise start at about 2.5 ft from the seedlings and as they start to grow start lowering the lights until your around 18" or so from the tops...

jdizzle22 said:
Is yellowing of leaves often caused by a nitrogen deficiency? Because today I noticed that all my plants are starting to get yellowing on large lower leaves. I guess I should have listened when you said to add the growbig if there wasn't much nitrogen in the other 2 ferts. Is this the most likely problem? The biggest one started getting issues again like i said earlier, with the top sets curling in and now the lowers turning yellow. The other 2 plants were perfectly fine in everyway until today I noticed that some of their leaves are losing their shade of green and heading for yellow.

are they flowering??

im pretty sure they are... and if so then its normal for this to start happening... eventually as the plant gets closer to harvest they begin pulling the nutrients and such from the fan leaves.. the fan leaves will begin to yellow and die..

can you take some pics of the curled leaves??

showhard2handle said:
Hey bro, sampson will obv. get ya proper info. But I would believe that hps is gonna be too strong (actually really interested to get sampson's opinion), but I believe startin under a floro (even a 2' shop light from lowes) will get those little guys above ground for ya, if I recall sampson advised keeping them under floro until sprouts had rooted thru bottom (i was usin rapid rooters). Took bout 8 days, and then straight under hps & things worked beautifully (so far).

I'm a newb breakin my cherry as well. All I can say is you came to the right place. Homeboy is like a mad scientist when it comes to this partic. hobby. He'll get ya covered.

Good luck brotha!

pretty close to what i said bro... lol

ohmanpiff said:
The leaves on my plant are lookin skinnier smaller nd hanging down lifeless what should i do.this is my first time nd im goin crazy.is it normal.

its hard to say without pics..

the skinny leaves could be because its a sativa dominant plant...

if the bottom is drooping and not the top it could be underwatered

if the entire plant is lifeless it could have been overwatered and is dead..

can you post pics??

Vtec9010 said:
Yeah thanks for the input bro! I've been digging around recently and have even found some grows that have been pretty successful with a few CFLs. I have complete faith in Sampson though and you are right, he knows his sh*t.
I've been looking at hps lights and I didn't realize how expensive they are. The bulbs alone aren't too bad (60$ or so) but you need the whole ballast and everything to go with them right?(200-400$) This is going to be an expensive hobby...but still seems worth it to me!
Thanks again for the input sh2h!

the ballast and such are 1 time costs.. and the bulbs will need replaced every couple grows to maintain good preformance.. but the results far out weigh the cost...

jdizzle22 · Mar 10, 2010

The leaves that are curling in look the same as they did when I put a pic up here a few days ago. The curling ones at the top are the same but the rest did raise up a little higher. I haven't taken any measurements so I am not sure, but I get the feeling this one with the leaves yellowing the most and the leaves curling in hasn't grown much. I'm pretty sure it must be a nitrogen deficiency since I went so long without giving it any Growbig/veg nutes with lots of N. Here is the same pic from before. They have only been flowering for 13 days. I don't believe they are showing any signs of flowering yet, just a good amount of pistils?/lady parts

simpsonsampson420 · Mar 10, 2010

alright.... so that gives me what i need to give you answers...

first about the curling... that looks like a pretty sativa dominant plant... thin leaves.... from what i have seen it isnt totally uncommon for the top sets of leaves on them to curl.. my applejack (jack herer x white widow cross.. sativa dom) has the same thing going on... at first i thought it might be a watering issue.. but after increasing the waterings and seeing little change i stopped worrying.. so unless the leaves start dieing its nothing to worry about...

it is most definitely an N def... ok.. lets walk through everything that has happened until now to get to this point...

first was the ph issues that needed fixed... this was done by flushing... which washed out most of the nutrients... as the ph adjusted and the plant started using nutes some werent there due to the flush.... this has further comtributed to the N deficiency... but its not the cause...

a little deeper look at things shows that the original ph issue was related to excess salt build up... so the flush was needed to remove them.... but the salt build ups dont happen over night.. its a gradual thing that takes time to happen...

since soil acts as a buffer there is a delay between things...what i mean by that is when your plant shows signs of a problem, such as nute deficiencies, they have actually been present for quite a while.. but the soil delays things...

you put the two together and you get that the lock out was gradual.. so the plant slowly was starved on N long before you see the signs now.... when we flushed, and the ph started to adjust, the plant was trying to correct itself by absorbing N, but due to the flush there was non... so the problem started a while ago... the flush just advanced it more.. but thats a good thing since we know things are in the correct range...

now the buffer is a good thing because it can give you time to correct things if you catch them early.. but sometimes things are un avoidable... such as this... when you try to fix a problem remember there is a delay in whats going on and what you are seeing.. so even if things look bad, as long as they arent getting worse, they are getting better... we want to make sure that things stay ok by correcting the problem but not trying to do it over night.. it may take a while to get things up and going.. just keep hitting them with N until you see it come back... it wont ever be fully dark dark green.. but it will green up.. just be patient and give it time... ill give you an example...

i had a clone that i wasnt sure i was going to use and let it go... it was in soil but i wasnt feeding it.. ran into SERIOUS defs.. cal/mag, N... looked like shit... thought it was gonnna die... ended up throwing it into my hydro system about a week and a half ago... its now starting to grow out new shoots.. hasnt grown height wise yet.. but is starting to get life going for sure.. remember that in a hydro environment things can happen 3 or 4 times faster.. so in soil it would have taken a long while for that to get fixed... point being you have to just be patient and not over do it...

safety comes first · Mar 10, 2010

@SimpsonSamson420

Great Thread, I've never grown anything before but I've been reading up on the subject for a while now. You've included alot of good information in your post so I'll make sure I save it for my friend. But before (Someone Who Isn't Me) starts their OWN grow they are handling all safety and security matters first. They nearly went out and spent a fortune on equipment etc but luckily they saw reason and decided to spend money on securing their grow FIRST.

Here is a link for the ONE question they've posted on this site regarding HOW to prevent Heat Signatures from compromising a grow....

https://www.rollitup.org/newbie-central/310418-how-blind-eye-sky.html

Any quick advise on that subject would be Great too! Thanks again!

Manicdreamz · Mar 10, 2010

How often should I water soil?

jdizzle22 · Mar 10, 2010

Thanks for the advice man, I feel like I am learning some good stuff every week! *I am shocked at how much more the big one yellowed in a day! Fastest I've ever seen on any of these. The largest leaves are yellowing a pair at a time and that seems to be moving up the plant a new big pair every day or more.

I think the tallest with the most issues right now is due for another flowering fert feeding, so I will give her 1tsp of N rich Grow Big (should be enough for the next few days), and also 1/4 flowering ferts (1/2 tsp Tiger Bloom, 3/4 tsp Big Bloom). I will give the 2nd tallest the same thing except only 1/2 tsp grow big (since they are just starting to yellow and I would rather be a little under than over for the next few days). And the smallest I guess I will do the same way as the 2nd tallest.

*Following results after feeding*
lst tall plant* Abby 349ppm (356ppm 3 days ago
*2nd tallest Berri 550ppm (300ppm 3 days ago)
*shortest Alma 738ppm (318ppm 3 days ago) pretty sure her runoff is so high because she leaks lots more water, although it didn't seem like it was as much as last watering.

What level of ppm runoff is too much? I'm going with 150 as too low, and I'm not sure how much is too much. I imagine it to be 600? I wasn't able to get their soil pH back up to 6.5 ever. They really seem to love settling for 5.5 Last time I checked they were the largest plant was 5.7, the 2nd tallest was 5.4, and the smallest was 5.5 Sometime soon I am going to get a soil pH tester that cost more than 10 bucks, and also get a decent water pH tester that doesn't rely on colored water! So yeah pH tested the soil and it says they are all at 5.5 (maybe the thing is off by 1 point low?

that would be awesome haha). Are there any good soil/water pH testers you can recommend for me? They have a few at the indoor garden store by where I live, can't recall the brands but the devices are red or blue mostly and cost like 70 to 120 dollars

http://www.foxfarmfertilizer.com/soilfeed.pdf
Not really sure what strength I should really be using any of these in the future. So I have Grow Big (the veg fert) 6-4-4 (2 tsp every other watering), Tiger Bloom 2-8-4 (2 tsp every other watering), and Big Bloom .01-0.3-0.7 (earthworm castings/bat guano 1 tablespoon). Is that not insanely high at this point? They recommend that much, but I'll bet that is WAY to much for plants in pots this size. I'm going 1/4 to 1/2 these recommendations until I here from you and get a better idea of what is appropriate. The big one started getting some of the blackish/brown spots on some of the drying yellow leaves again, not sure if that is a deficiency or overfed flower ferts (i would imagine def. because i had those problems a long time ago too).

BONUS QUESTION: (lol) So I test the tap water right out of the sink and its 25ppm, test the same water 2 days later thats been sitting out and shaken occasionally in a gallon jug and it is still 25ppm. I am pretty sure King County (WA) water is fluoridated and chlorinated. Do these measurements make any sense? I would have expected it to change at least a little. Also: All of each plants many different tops look like they might be bud sites now. *they don't look like the same kind of tops that were seen a couple weeks ago, lots of pistils? Woot?

Do those look like bud sites to you?

***I am not able to roll a joint, I tried once. Failed miserably for 10 minutes trying to figure it out. Got a doable version going and I lit it, paper went up in flames and I had to drop the thing for fear of burning my face

PS: Most of the yellow look on the 2nd tallest one is just the lighting in the room, it isn't really as bad as it looks in that picture. And after this harvest, you will have helped me out soo much, I shouldn't have to need so much help anymore (thanks a lot). I keep trying to not talk so much, but it is tough!

simpsonsampson420 · Mar 10, 2010

safety comes first said:
@SimpsonSamson420

Great Thread, I've never grown anything before but I've been reading up on the subject for a while now. You've included alot of good information in your post so I'll make sure I save it for my friend. But before (Someone Who Isn't Me) starts their OWN grow they are handling all safety and security matters first. They nearly went out and spent a fortune on equipment etc but luckily they saw reason and decided to spend money on securing their grow FIRST.

Here is a link for the ONE question they've posted on this site regarding HOW to prevent Heat Signatures from compromising a grow....

https://www.rollitup.org/newbie-central/310418-how-blind-eye-sky.html

Any quick advise on that subject would be Great too! Thanks again!

covers the ceilings and walls with http://www.wormsway.com/detail.aspx?t=prod&sku=BI130&AC=1 and dont vent the heat outside... vent it somewhere inside so that the heat doesnt cause a IR gyser outside that can be seen with a IR camera...

Manicdreamz said:
How often should I water soil?

when its about 90% dry.... get a moisture meter to make it easy.... or check the top two inches of soil and the drains holes at the bottom of the pot.. if thats all dry then water...

jdizzle22 said:
Thanks for the advice man, I feel like I am learning some good stuff every week! *I am shocked at how much more the big one yellowed in a day! Fastest I've ever seen on any of these. The largest leaves are yellowing a pair at a time and that seems to be moving up the plant a new big pair every day or more.

I think the tallest with the most issues right now is due for another flowering fert feeding, so I will give her 1tsp of N rich Grow Big (should be enough for the next few days), and also 1/4 flowering ferts (1/2 tsp Tiger Bloom, 3/4 tsp Big Bloom). I will give the 2nd tallest the same thing except only 1/2 tsp grow big (since they are just starting to yellow and I would rather be a little under than over for the next few days). And the smallest I guess I will do the same way as the 2nd tallest.

*Following results after feeding*
lst tall plant* Abby 349ppm (356ppm 3 days ago
*2nd tallest Berri 550ppm (300ppm 3 days ago)
*shortest Alma 738ppm (318ppm 3 days ago) pretty sure her runoff is so high because she leaks lots more water, although it didn't seem like it was as much as last watering.

What level of ppm runoff is too much? I'm going with 150 as too low, and I'm not sure how much is too much. I imagine it to be 600? I wasn't able to get their soil pH back up to 6.5 ever. They really seem to love settling for 5.5 Last time I checked they were the largest plant was 5.7, the 2nd tallest was 5.4, and the smallest was 5.5 Sometime soon I am going to get a soil pH tester that cost more than 10 bucks, and also get a decent water pH tester that doesn't rely on colored water! So yeah pH tested the soil and it says they are all at 5.5 (maybe the thing is off by 1 point low? that would be awesome haha). Are there any good soil/water pH testers you can recommend for me? They have a few at the indoor garden store by where I live, can't recall the brands but the devices are red or blue mostly and cost like 70 to 120 dollars

http://www.foxfarmfertilizer.com/soilfeed.pdf
Not really sure what strength I should really be using any of these in the future. So I have Grow Big (the veg fert) 6-4-4 (2 tsp every other watering), Tiger Bloom 2-8-4 (2 tsp every other watering), and Big Bloom .01-0.3-0.7 (earthworm castings/bat guano 1 tablespoon). Is that not insanely high at this point? They recommend that much, but I'll bet that is WAY to much for plants in pots this size. I'm going 1/4 to 1/2 these recommendations until I here from you and get a better idea of what is appropriate. The big one started getting some of the blackish/brown spots on some of the drying yellow leaves again, not sure if that is a deficiency or overfed flower ferts (i would imagine def. because i had those problems a long time ago too).

BONUS QUESTION: (lol) So I test the tap water right out of the sink and its 25ppm, test the same water 2 days later thats been sitting out and shaken occasionally in a gallon jug and it is still 25ppm. I am pretty sure King County (WA) water is fluoridated and chlorinated. Do these measurements make any sense? I would have expected it to change at least a little. Also: All of each plants many different tops look like they might be bud sites now. *they don't look like the same kind of tops that were seen a couple weeks ago, lots of pistils? Woot? Do those look like bud sites to you?

***I am not able to roll a joint, I tried once. Failed miserably for 10 minutes trying to figure it out. Got a doable version going and I lit it, paper went up in flames and I had to drop the thing for fear of burning my face

PS: Most of the yellow look on the 2nd tallest one is just the lighting in the room, it isn't really as bad as it looks in that picture. And after this harvest, you will have helped me out soo much, I shouldn't have to need so much help anymore (thanks a lot). I keep trying to not talk so much, but it is tough!

ideally you want your runoff to be 0.. that means everything is being used.... but thats almost impossible... anything over 500ppm runoff is getting high tho..

part of the problem is that your soil ph is so low... http://www.thctalk.com/cannabis-forum/showthread.php?11726-Ph-Lockout-Chart that should help you understand the range of nutrient lock outs.. we need to raise the ph.... may have to use some ph up (earth juice) or some dolomite lime to do so.. but it needs to come up to about 6.5 because everything is locked out right now...

never having used fox farms myself its hard to recommend what to feed with or not feed with.. i would just follow their recommended feeding schedule.. your plant needs a LOT of nutes.. it may seem too much.. but its not... the bad thing is that about everything you are feeding is just sitting in the soil and not being used.. so using a smaller amount of all the nutes is fine... makes things less toxic but still gives them something to eat if they can...

ppm of tap water shouldnt change.... or change much.. the ph will tho... things that evaporate like chlorine wont show on a ppm test... so that seems right with your water.. do the same thing except with ph and see if you dont get 2 different readouts..

definitely sounds like and should be bud sites you are describing.. thats a good thing.. means the plant is still progressing.. but will need attention quickly..

once the ph is in line they will be much happier.. i didnt realize it was so low otherwise i would have said something... or rather that it was still that low.. i thought it was back up to 6.0 at least....

dont feel bad about asking questions.. i am here for that reason.. this thread is about the only thing i keep up with here anymore.. barely even journal.. so please, keep the questions coming!

For all new growers with questions... Tons of information and answers..

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