Fuck..! Ended up with no potent totally odorless weed..

Rhizosphere said:
have you grown this strain in the past with good results??? not sure who said it but like they were saying could be genetic?? if you've had good results in the past with the same strain with out the overdrive ide say its the overdrive..
Click to expand...

No experience with this strain before ,supposed to be extremely high yielding and high thc...Bryangtho had very good results..but yeah 1000 times more experience than me...after I been a bystander for 5 years (not with Bryangtho) ,I have grown a bit over a year by my self...I try to compensate my un experience with expensive equipments and mysterious additives...
 
greasemonkeymann said:
so you never have "bothered with dirt"
yet you claim it's twice the yield?
Hmmmmmm....
View attachment 3741186
Click to expand...

Whell yeah I relay on hear say...I do like the hydro because of its faster growth and much smaller amount of waste to dump..(yeah you can recycle..but then there is the bug thing..what I don't be too keen to bring in my home...so the dirt can't be the only right path,,even you like it and get nice results...it can be equal good..but not better)
 
greasemonkeymann said:
so you never have "bothered with dirt"
yet you claim it's twice the yield?
Hmmmmmm....
View attachment 3741186
Click to expand...
not trying to be a dick, and i still use dirt outdoors, but i quadupled my yields in hydro, and now i don't bring dirty stuff inside anymore.
but you gotta go with what you know, and to each their own. if it works for you, awesome, but however, it may not work for aaron in arkansas.

like the old saying goes, there are a thousand ways to do anything, but only 83 of them actually work...
 
Phytium hater said:
Whell yeah I relay on hear say...I do like the hydro because of its faster growth and much smaller amount of waste to dump..(yeah you can recycle..but then there is the bug thing..what I don't be too keen to bring in my home...so the dirt can't be the only right path,,even you like it and get nice results...it can be equal good..but not better)
Click to expand...
Well shit man...
one thing is for certain in this industry (and often in life in general)
DON'T rely on hearsay.
Try it first, THEN you decide
 
Slab said:
Sounds like you let them go to long, degredation happened to me recently when i went 10'days past peak with a kush varient.

There could be many unseen variables from lunar to outside temps, and drying technique as stated.
Click to expand...

It can be true..with going too long but it was said to be 9 week strain and I kept it 10 weeks to be shure...and its said its rare to over due then under do them...I was using my mini microscope (what is crap by the way,,I am going to get my self one much more suitable one)..like daily trying to make sense of the ripening state...but there is always so many buds in different plants in different stage..AND NO I AM NOT GOING TO START CHOPPING A PART NOW AND PART LATER...when I chop I take all down so I can dry them in that room in dark+ I have space to work with them..
 
cat of curiosity said:
not trying to be a dick, and i still use dirt outdoors, but i quadupled my yields in hydro, and now i don't bring dirty stuff inside anymore.
but you gotta go with what you know, and to each their own. if it works for you, awesome, but however, it may not work for aaron in arkansas.

like the old saying goes, there are a thousand ways to do anything, but only 83 of them actually work...
Click to expand...
didn't take it "dick'ish" man
and try not to take my following retort as dick'ish.
but if you quadrupled your organic with hydro, you weren't growing organics very well man
 
i really like to do the zip blocks because the buds can still breath just a little
Phytium hater said:
No experience with this strain before ,supposed to be extremely high yielding and high thc...Bryangtho had very good results..but yeah 1000 times more experience than me...after I been a bystander for 5 years (not with Bryangtho) ,I have grown a bit over a year by my self...I try to compensate my un experience with expensive equipments and mysterious additives...
Click to expand...

i honestly dont have crazy amounts of hydro experience but ide say less is more when it comes to crazy additives. hydro is super efficient and ive heard it really dose not take a lot of nutes because nutes are readily available to the roots and the solution is constantly passing into the rhizosphere so there is always nute up take. IMO buy a good line of hydro nutes run the recommended ppm or a little less and go from there. and if you do buy additives buy ones recommend to go with the nute line you are running by the nute company .
 
greasemonkeymann said:
Well shit man...
one thing is for certain in this industry (and often in life in general)
DON'T rely on hearsay.
Try it first, THEN you decide
Click to expand...

Whell as I stated above...my try this and try that days are over..I will do things exactly the way I did before this strain and mystic size builder finishing product....Moby + hydro + Canna = awesome results !
 
greasemonkeymann said:
didn't take it "dick'ish" man
and try not to take my following retort as dick'ish.
but if you quadrupled your organic with hydro, you weren't growing organics very well man
Click to expand...
oh shit, my bad. i'm stoned and didn't catch it was organic only conversation.

no, i use gh and a few other things, started in dirt for six years, then started hydro (and tried several types of applications) indoors. after a decade, i found going the simplest route the easiest, for fewer complications.

i will rather ungraciously bow out now, please forgive my trespass. next joint is on me.
 
Olive Drab Green said:
Gotta strongly disagree with you, Doc. Blackstrap 100% works. AACT does, too, but molasses is DEFINITELY not a myth.
Click to expand...

Well, do what works for YOU.
Facts say not.

The idea that molasses contains any nutrient at levels that can effect plant results in the time we have to finish is not effective.
Carbs are available in many differing ways. The problem being is that the plant creates it's own carbs for it's use. Yet some carbs do have a "symbiotic" effect with the use of other plant nutrients, be them micro or macro. Molasses in fact, and in my own use. Is not as effective as using other formulations of nutrients. In the time I've been growing - trust me, I've tried it many ways......You can do better!

Olive Drab Green said:
Why, considering what molasses is made of, and considering how organics work, and furthermore being as intelligent as I know you are--Why would you think molasses is a myth?

If rhizobacillus breaks down meat, bone, and other things into their basic elements in a form that the roots take up, and there is 600-800mg of potassium, tons if sugars, carbs--If all of that is clearly available in a single tablespoon of molasses for organic breakdown and we know what those things do to a plant, why are you saying such foolish things like "molasses is a myth?" It doesn't make any sense.
Click to expand...

OH BOY! Milligrams !!!!! You have no concept of effective nutrient concentrations per gallon of feed mix do you?

To ACTUALLY make K have an effect per gallon. You better START at about 130 GRAMS per gallon! (using a 50% K2SO4 as a source)

Are you beginning to understand my point now?

I hope you take this as a learning moment and NOT a slam at you! I think @RM3 was attempting to make this point in a past thread on molasses, some time ago.....I just gave you the relative weight requirements in an understandable way....OK?
 
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Reactions: RM3
yeah ive had a lot of people give me shit about the paper bags and always tall me to just bump up the RH and hang another day or two. i dont know just something about those damn brown paper grocery bags when filled with about 5 inches of buds and folded over on top holds just the right amount of moister to help even out the moister in the bigger and smaller buds and still lets them all dry out a little more....
 
Dr. Who said:
Well, do what works for YOU.
Facts say not.

The idea that molasses contains any nutrient at levels that can effect plant results in the time we have to finish is not effective.
Carbs are available in many differing ways. The problem being is that the plant creates it's own carbs for it's use. Yet some carbs do have a "symbiotic" effect with the use of other plant nutrients, be them micro or macro. Molasses in fact, and in my own use. Is not as effective as using other formulations of nutrients. In the time I've been growing - trust me, I've tried it many ways......You can do better!



OH BOY! Milligrams !!!!! You have no concept of effective nutrient concentrations per gallon of feed mix do you?

To ACTUALLY make K have an effect per gallon. You better START at about 130 GRAMS per gallon! (using a 50% K2SO4 as a source)

Are you beginning to understand my point now?

I hope you take this as a learning moment and NOT a slam at you! I think @RM3 was attempting to make this point in a past thread on molasses, some time ago.....I just gave you the relative weight requirements in an understandable way....OK?
Click to expand...
You don't feed the plant molasses you feed the microbes , they break it down and fed the plant. Pretty sure molasses is too complex for a plant to use.
 
Dr. Who said:
Well, do what works for YOU.
Facts say not.

The idea that molasses contains any nutrient at levels that can effect plant results in the time we have to finish is not effective.
Carbs are available in many differing ways. The problem being is that the plant creates it's own carbs for it's use. Yet some carbs do have a "symbiotic" effect with the use of other plant nutrients, be them micro or macro. Molasses in fact, and in my own use. Is not as effective as using other formulations of nutrients. In the time I've been growing - trust me, I've tried it many ways......You can do better!



OH BOY! Milligrams !!!!! You have no concept of effective nutrient concentrations per gallon of feed mix do you?

To ACTUALLY make K have an effect per gallon. You better START at about 130 GRAMS per gallon! (using a 50% K2SO4 as a source)

Are you beginning to understand my point now?

I hope you take this as a learning moment and NOT a slam at you! I think @RM3 was attempting to make this point in a past thread on molasses, some time ago.....I just gave you the relative weight requirements in an understandable way....OK?
Click to expand...

i like how you put K2S04 instead of potassium sulfate witch is a non organic chemical compound and found in almost all chem nutes with a K ratio in it. and yes would work great for a hydro or soil chem grow but do or would you use this in your organic garden??? cause i dont think that would be ture organics just wondering???
 
Yodaweed said:
You don't feed the plant molasses you feed the microbes , they break it down and fed the plant. Pretty sure molasses is too complex for a plant to use.
Click to expand...

I told him that earlier - LOL....we are both organic right?
But, yeah! I like your "too complex to use" line! Goes with my concentrations per gallon for effectiveness. That means that, Buy the time you get enough molasses in the "mix" to effect any nutrient level - you have got way too many carbs in the soil and here comes that fermentation problem!
Actually very well put!
I may borrow that line !!!
 
Rhizosphere said:
i like how you put K2S04 instead of potassium sulfate witch is a non organic chemical compound and found in almost all chem nutes with a K ratio in it. and yes would work great for a hydro or soil chem grow but do or would you use this in your organic garden??? cause i dont think that would be ture organics just wondering???
Click to expand...

Yes I do use organic sourced K2SO4! It is organic rated! I love the stuff!
 
Olive Drab Green said:
Exactly that.
Click to expand...

Read the post above yours ol'friend. The one directly over the one I quoted!

There are ways to use carbs to feed the bio's that are more effective then a tsp per gallon of molasses.

I might suggest starting at 1 and 1/2 tsp and go up from there......I would not go over a TBL.

I still like a weekly watering of a simple AACT bio tea. Some say I do it rather "often".

Works for me!
 
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