insanestang4life
Well-Known Member
Cool thanks like Im not on a budget just seen it when I was at lowes for cheap. ill just get on ebay. thanks Cmak
Get a Harvest Every 2 Weeks
- Thread starter Al B. Fuct
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insanestang4life
Well-Known Member
For exhaust can I run it like this Carbon Filter>>>Fan>>>>cool tube>>>>>>Cool tube>>>>>>exhaust exit. Then have a little smaller fan for intake. I would have the carbon filter and cool tubes towards the ceiling.
Enigma
Well-Known Member
There won't be any way to maintain temps with that.
Seperate fans for cooltubes and the room.
Check out my journal.. I'll have my carbon filters up soon.
knowledge seeker
Active Member
thanks al, i looked at the uvonair 5000 i saw it on ebay for 220 dollars american, that will be good for the room but i need something else to put inside the exaust tubes to the outside any suggestions... thanks seeker
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
yep, that's the neighbourhood.
Mind, it'll pay that back to you in the first or second harvest.
The directions you've posted are too small to read. Try again in higher resolution or point us to the mfr's website which might have a copy in PDF. However, you may not need to go to that trouble.
A thermostat is just a switch. It should have two sets of contacts; one set where the contacts open (disconnect) when the temperature exceeds the setpoint and another set where the contacts close (connect) when temp exceeds the setpoint. The pair that close on hi temp are for a cooling fan. The pair that open on hi temp are for a heating appliance.
The instructions should tell you which set is which, probably by the notation 'normally open' and 'normally closed,' which by itself doesn't really tell you what's happening... because you don't know what they think 'normal' is.
Throw $10 at a digital volt/ohmmeter at the local hdwe store (you need one anyway, admit it
). Use the ohms function to look at the contacts with the tstat setpoint temp set to above and below your present room temp to decide which to use if you can't divine it from their instructions.
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
cmak's right about the Hunter tstat- it is designed to switch a 24V signal voltage (a very low current, perhaps 20-50mA) which operates a relay in a heater or aircon sys. It is not intended to switch the mains supply for a blower. You could add a 24V relay and a 24V doorbell (or something) transformer to that thermostat and make it work, tho.
stang, remember that your carbon filter will need a centrifugal blower.
Also remember that centrif blowers are more efficient pushing into a high static load (like a filter) than trying to pull air through an obstructed intake. Filtering the intake will cause a low pressure condition on the intake side of the centrif blower's vanes, which are designed to operate at atmospheric pressure. The blades will 'stall' and airflow will not be efficient. Put the filter on the output end.
You can not use a thermostat on a fan which is driving a cooltube. A cooltube must have an air supply for all the time the light is on plus about 15 mins overrun after lights off, meaning a cooltube fan needs its own timer. It can not shut off just because the room airmass temp has met the setpoint. The lamp will overheat within the cooltube absent an air supply.
aw hell, what do you need me around here for?
stang, remember that your carbon filter will need a centrifugal blower.
Also remember that centrif blowers are more efficient pushing into a high static load (like a filter) than trying to pull air through an obstructed intake. Filtering the intake will cause a low pressure condition on the intake side of the centrif blower's vanes, which are designed to operate at atmospheric pressure. The blades will 'stall' and airflow will not be efficient. Put the filter on the output end.
You can not use a thermostat on a fan which is driving a cooltube. A cooltube must have an air supply for all the time the light is on plus about 15 mins overrun after lights off, meaning a cooltube fan needs its own timer. It can not shut off just because the room airmass temp has met the setpoint. The lamp will overheat within the cooltube absent an air supply.
insanestang4life
Well-Known Member
So I should have it like this Fan>>>>cooltube>>>>cooltube>>>Exit then another Fan>>>>carbon filter>>>>Exit or should it blow the air back in the room? Then a fan for intake this is the confusing part for me. Sorry I get everything else but, this exhaust confuses the hell out of me! LOL thanks for the patience guys
stickyicky77
Well-Known Member
Guy's the best kind of t-stat to wire in parallel to your exhaust fan is a attic exhaust fan t-stat which is a line voltage t-stat for 120v. You can buy them at Home Depot by the attic fans. A regular t-stat for a residential home works off of 24v control voltage and it could fry the t-stat if you wire 120v to it. You can buy 120v control voltage t-stat but you will have to get one at a HVAC supply house if you do not want to use the attic fan t-stat.
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
Like this:
Pardon my usual kindergarten art, but you get the idea.
Bingo.
Great tip for Americans.knowledge seeker
Active Member
thanks al, hey i got white widow and big bud what do you think would be a better strain for this op thanks seeker
VictorVIcious
Well-Known Member
Yes we had that discussion a year ago or so. I did pull 220 into my room, I wired from the meter in and that is 220 200 amp. I have been recommending folks take a look at your control panel, especially the one that wants to know what he needs to run 4-1000 watt furnaces. Hope they are checking it out. VV
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
BB, hands down.
Yes, I'm sure we did.Yes we had that discussion a year ago or so. I did pull 220 into my room, I wired from the meter in and that is 220 200 amp. I have been recommending folks take a look at your control panel, especially the one that wants to know what he needs to run 4-1000 watt furnaces. Hope they are checking it out. VV
200A worth of 220V would run not just a grow op but a small farm.
The power panel is just pure necessity. Gotta have one.
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
Yep, you can use corona type O3 gens in your exhaust line. Corona types make a LOT of O3, but as said, they shouldn't be in your plant area.
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
Continuous harvest ops like mine look the same ALL the time. I do put up a pic now and again but it always looks like the last one for some reason. 
This thread is about as close to a journal as you'll ever get out of me.
You can browse my gallery and see all the pix I've posted without having to search this thread for them (and most are in this thread and the one about cloning), but then you don't usually see the commentary from the thread.
This thread is about as close to a journal as you'll ever get out of me. You can browse my gallery and see all the pix I've posted without having to search this thread for them (and most are in this thread and the one about cloning), but then you don't usually see the commentary from the thread.
insanestang4life
Well-Known Member
Thanks again AL and Sticky! Great idea with the Thermostat.
cmak40
Well-Known Member
i know eh? i went and bought a thermo and fan controller off ebay the night al posted that post. that things the shit cuz i was wondering what would happen to smell if the exhaust wasnt on at all. and well good ol al gives us the fix.. much appreciated here to
insanestang4life
Well-Known Member
Hey, AL the black line or box in your drawing is that the walls? So you would have your fans and filter outside of your grow room!
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
It really is one of my very favourite tricks. Oddly enough, due to my local conditions, it's also one I don't use in my own op.
I don't have a carbon filter and if my vent system ran all the time, even at reduced speed, my RH would be hard to control. The RH in the area housing my op is always high, around 80-90%. I have a dehumidifier in the grow area but it can't treat a continuous stream of air- air has to spend a little time in the op for the dehumidifier to be able to work right.
With continuous hi/lo speed ventilation, my op would also tend to get too cool in winter, especially during lights-off. Air temps in the area housing the op are somewhat cave-like, with outdoor air dropping to 0C a few times a year but the air on the op area only getting to about 10C min, closer to 14-16C on avg.
One could add a second thermostat on the mains supply side of the paralleled tstat and speed controller, set to open its contacts when temps got too low.
Due to the low winter temps, I'm going to have to organise a way of recirculating the cooltube air through the op. I need the heat from the lights to keep the room up to temp during lights-on; the dehumidifier adds a little bit of heat during lights-off, enough usually to keep the room up to about 20C or so. For recirculation, I'll put in a couple of wye tubes and appropriately routed ducting so that air can be sourced from the room airmass and dumped back into the room for winter operation. I'll plug the unused wye ports with a wad of bubble wrap. Crude but effective.
Yep, sorry again for the kindy art.
While many fans are have duct flanges on both sides to permit inline mounting, they do work more efficiently with no ducting, especially on the inlet side if at all possible. Convenience of mounting may dictate that you must have a run of duct on the intake, but keep it as short as you can.
The intake blower should be placed at floor level. To eliminate duct on its intake end, it is best right on the wall or as close to such an arrangement as possible. Shouldn't need any duct from the outlet side of the intake fan, but it often is helpful to have a small amount on it for trapping light if needed.
The exhaust blower can be inside the room, up near the ceiling as warm air rises. It can also be right above the ceiling as pictured or mounted high on a wall. Of course, if you are pushing room air into the carbon filter, it will have to be outside the room's airmass. This is the exit route for warm, moist air from the op.
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