Good Idea/ Bad Idea

GraF

Well-Known Member
First off let me say that Im not familiar with growing male plants...

Okay, Ive got G-13- 5 females flowering right now-

Ive also got a Chronic plant that I am currently trying to sex as well..

If it turns out to be male- I will separate it from the rest of the buch and continue to grow it out... Im hoping that somebody will be able to help me out in pollinating, because as of right now- I have no knowledge whatsoever.

Say the chronic plant is male- I thought that I heard you can pollinate just one part of a plant... so could I take a toothpic, get some pollen on it, and put it on like one female bud-site???? (without ruining the whole plant?) and get cross-bred seeds?? I know I sound like a moron right now but I couldnt find anything in the FAQ on this shit...

so... Bad Idea/ Good Idea???? Im not really trying to fuck up 5 plants either- but I am willing to intake some knowledge on breeding!!!!

also: If someone could explain the basics of breeding or link me something, that would be wonderful!! (wondering how to "make" a strain consistanly)

thanks in advance- GraF
 

fdd2blk

Well-Known Member
i use a small modeling paint brush. it's easier to control. i rub it on the flowering site first to get it sticky with resin. then i dip it in the pollen. flick off any excess in a safe clean way. then dab it on the site you want seeded. i usually seed the lower branches. not the lowest for they tend to be weaker but the mid/low. if you work in an area with no fans and are careful you can easily pollinate just one branch.

to make a true consistent strain they say you have to get to F6. that is, breeding the same plant with itself 6 times. but you have to grow out hundreds and pick and breed the ones with the traits you desire.
 

GraF

Well-Known Member
ok I get it... somewhat..

What if I pollinate a female flower... will there be pollen sacs from the pollinated female area- possibly opening and ruining the whole plant???

also- how would I go about breeding with ea. other??? just breeding the males with the females??? 6 times over, creating the strain u desire???

This is the first time Ive said this but.... I want this plant to be male- ouch!
 

mogie

Well-Known Member
Kryptonite's pollination method

Contributed by: Kryptonite

Collecting Pollen:

When the first male flowers start to show a possibility of opening, the plant is removed and isolated from the rest of the garden. The male can be placed in a makeshift box, closet, or in an adjacent room.
It is very important to make sure it is secluded from the female garden and there is absolutely NO possibility of pollen drifting into unwanted areas.
It is preferable to have sufficient lighting such as a compact flouroescent fixture, or if "Direct" sunlight from a window source is available that may also be adequate.

The male plant MUST Remain on a 12/12 schedule.

Through Experimentation I have found that if the male does not have ample lighting it will in most cases cease to finish the flowering cycle followed by complete shutdown of pollen production within several days.

Pollen is Easily collected by placing a shot glass or similar item under the flower of which you would like to harvest the pollen from.
Giving a gentle tap to the "ripe" flower with an object such as a pair of tweezers will often cause it to spring open like a parachute and occasionally fall into the glass, "remove them as they fall". It is very important not to let anything that will cause moisture to build in the glass which will result in your pollen caking up on you. Pull the flower from the glass with your tweezers and give it a good tap on the rim of the glass to remove remaining pollen stuck to the flower.

While harvesting Tap the Flowers gently as not to disturb other male flowers on the plant. An agressive Tap will cause pollen to fall from other finished flowers on the plant resulting in a loss of viable pollen.

Male flowers open over a period of several days, during this time you should gather what you deem to be enough for your project, working around the plant as the flowers are ready. A little goes a long way.
It is also helpful if you remove flowers that you have already collected pollen from after each harvest. This is done so that each time you visit your male you can easily Identify Newly ripened flowers.
It is common to catch enough for a small project over a period of 5 days or so after the male flowers have begun to open. At this time the male can either be discarded, consumed, or cloned for future use.

"Naturally" the males flower earlier than the females in order to allow for sufficient overlap. By the time you have finished collecting your pollen the girls should be just about ready to be pollenated.

I would then seclude your best Female for the traits that you want to hopefully preserve from the rest of the garden.
Pollinate early to insure sufficient time for the seed to ripen, most Indica Strains should be pollinated from 10 to 17 days of 12/12 allowing at least 4 weeks for them to finish. It would be preferable to let them finish with the buds, the longer you let your seed ripen the more viable they will be.

Applying the collected Pollen:

If you are not breeding for seed only pollinating the main cola should be avoided, as an example I have personally had excellent results introducing pollen to the secondary colas producing plenty of seed for future use and enough to give to friends.

Now take a cotton swab and gently dab it into the pollen collecting a small amount on the head of the swab, then hovering over the selected buds "female Flowers" that you wish to pollinate give the q-tip a gentle tap with your forefinger and you will see a golden cloud of pollen drift into the bud, try to avoid touching the "hairs" during flowering, It does harm them making them die and wither off.

You can control the fall of the pollen by blowing gently in the direction you want it to travel.
Before placing the girl back into the room make sure you dust it off by blowing excess pollen off of her manually, or you using a hair drying on it's cool setting also works, this will help to insure that you will not have the surplus pollen drifting into unwanted places.
Another good suggestion would be to let the plant sit "secluded" for several hours after pollination, at this time spray a mist of plain PH corrected water over the entire plant "thoroughly".
Wetting of the plant will dampen any residual pollen rendering it non-viable and basically useless. Let the plant sit and dry while it is away from the rest of the garden.
Within 24 to 36 hours you should begin to see the pollinated "hairs" turn reddish or amber, this will show you exactly where to find your seed later.
It is also a good identifier for finding buds pollinated by any occasional excess pollen.

Don't rush their finish, let them go!
I'd hate to see you waste a lot of good bud on immature "green" seeds by not letting them finish fully.

Another tip: In regards to pollinating the lower branches, make sure that you are getting enough light penetration to the area that you have pollinated, if the buds in the areas which lack ample lighting do not usually finish properly neither will your seed.


I'd try to always let them go at least 4.5 to 5 weeks.
The seed is then dried, cured and stored IN the buds, packed neatly in canning jars or bagged in the fridge, taken out as they are needed for use.

This should be a simple easy to use base for you to get started, but please continue Learning through experimantation. By doing this you will find unique ways of customizing this technique that better suits your needs.

Good Luck in your Breeding Endeavors, I hope I have helped you OVERGROW The World!!!!
 

mogie

Well-Known Member
The way to decide when to pollinate the female is by counting BACK from the end of her flowering period 4 weeks...this allows the seeds enough time to mature before harvest.

The seeds should be allowed to dry in the buds after harvest, as they do continue to mature during the drying process.
 

GoodFriend

Lumberjack
what if you were to throw an almost done seeded plant back into veg... would it just drop the seeds naturally once they were absolutely mature?

i need to grow for like a 4 more years so i can have enough time to find all these things out myself...

but time goes by so slowly....
 

GraF

Well-Known Member
oaky!!! so if Ive got a Chronic male- use the pollen from that to pollinate a G-13 female- are the seeds that come going to be the crossed strain?? if so, I then need to inbreed 6 times correct???
 

skunkushybrid

New Member
oaky!!! so if Ive got a Chronic male- use the pollen from that to pollinate a G-13 female- are the seeds that come going to be the crossed strain?? if so, I then need to inbreed 6 times correct???
Yes to the first, and I'm guessing a yes to the second. I have a couple of strains now that haven't gone through this inbreeding process and they're fucked.
 

GraF

Well-Known Member
theyre fucked as in like....... what

like face down ass up or like just retarded?
 

skunkushybrid

New Member
As in don't grow right. The chronic x white russian are coming up to 3 weeks old and are tiny as fuck, not drinking. One is light green the other dark. They have about four nodes in the space of an inch.
 

GraF

Well-Known Member
wouldnt 4 nodes in an inch of space be a good thing?? as in more bud-sites??
 

GraF

Well-Known Member
haha- that would be fucking amazing if you had a 3ft plant with four nodes in every inch!!! I dont even want to think about what that would look like!!

shit, Ive got 56in tall plants right now- but they have 1 node per inch- fuckin G-13 stretches no matter what!!!! I even had a mh on for two weeks of flowering- and never more than 8in away either!!!

thats my reason I want to cross it- hopefully get some tighter nodes.
 

skunkushybrid

New Member
haha- that would be fucking amazing if you had a 3ft plant with four nodes in every inch!!! I dont even want to think about what that would look like!!

shit, Ive got 56in tall plants right now- but they have 1 node per inch- fuckin G-13 stretches no matter what!!!! I even had a mh on for two weeks of flowering- and never more than 8in away either!!!

thats my reason I want to cross it- hopefully get some tighter nodes.
At 56" those nodes seem pretty tight already. I love doing that too, switching bulbs now and again. I do it through veg and flower.
 

skunkushybrid

New Member
what's your PH? :mrgreen:
These are in hydro so i always ph to around 6.3.

I thought about this myself, there must be some sort of lock, yet I grew the master kush the exact same way and they're thriving. I might have given them the wrong feed, this is what comes from trying to grow 3 different strains and trying to keep a track of their feeding schedule without writing it down.

I think it's me. I did the same thing to the la conf' in hydro. The mother plant was fucked, and badly overnuted, yet her clone is thriving in a bubbler right now. You wouldn't believe it was the same plant.

The light green one has started to get brown spots on the leaves. If I can just bring one of these through then i can clone it and get it in a bubbler, plants LOVE DWC.
 
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