Heatsinks for DIY LED lamps
- Thread starter SupraSPL
- Start date
BST
Active Member
I just use the 4.6. It cools everything. Don't have to build chassis. Depending on ma being ran will determine what and how many fans to use. Often I won't use fans; in that case, I hire a little person to blow gently on heatsink (anything over 2100ma would require two little people, Depending on lung capacity )
That said I only use Meanwell HLG sometimes LPC (220 only).
WTF is AA11?
That said I only use Meanwell HLG sometimes LPC (220 only).
WTF is AA11?
paraordnance
Well-Known Member
That is not true actually. Arctic Silver adhesive (the only one I can find available here), I just bought says >7.5 W/Mk.
Where most of the pastes I see anywhere between 5-10. So there is no 10 fold difference between the paste and adhesive, it's a myth they both work just fine
BST
Active Member
Digi-key sells a nice two-part for $18
Lucius Bundy
Member
Should of used some solder flux bro. Makes soldering much easier and your job is much cleaner to.
BlazedLeprechaun
Member
I actually am goin to go for a build myself now!.just sourcing the parts at the moment. would 4 x CXB3590 3500k and 1 x CXB3590 2700k (middle) be good for a 4x2? the 4 would have 90 degree reflectors and the middle would have none to spread a 120degree beam out. was hoping to make a passive heat sink design as the tent is in my bedroom. driver will be the Mean Well HLG-240H-C1050B. just going to have a cased potentiometer with the knob on it hooked up straight to the dimmer leads. all that's left to source is the heatsink frame and i'm good to go. Luckily 'Rapid LED' deliver to Ireland for all the COB parts!
Last edited:
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Look at their new binnings. There is a really good 3.000°k/CRI92 CB bin or, if you want still use 3.500°k/CRI80 for some reason, there is a DB bin ... Also new Vero29gen.7 is really interesting.. 165lm/w at their nominal cuurent and there are 36, 50 and 70v versions (B, C, D). The 70v Vero29 in CRI90 seems a good comparision to the new CRI90/CB bin!
Also Citizen 1825 gen.6 and Luminus XNOVA CXM32 are in the same range. But you pay allways a few bucks more if you choose Cree, the other competitors are 10-15bucks less.
They all have their own benefits, so the Vero's and Citi's performs better at higher currents(>1A) while the new cree bins are still performs best at lower currents(<1A).
But those are the flagship chips and therefor more expensive. You can also go in the higher midrange and choose Luminus CXM22gen.3 or Citizen's CLU048-1818C4 gen.6. They are comparable to the last gen. Vero's/Cree's but for only 19$US.
Edit:
And I'll not forget to mention new Samsung midpower 561c diodes. You will find them on QuantumBoards and also on Samsung H-Series strips(gen.3), 179lm/w/3000°k/CRI80 is better as the most COB's. They seems also a bit pricey, a Quantumboard costs 75$, but they pay for them self in a short time and really easy to handle.
Last edited:
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
That would work well. Run the chips at about 50-60W each and you'll get good efficiency and plenty of light.
KonopCh
Well-Known Member
Which one is better for passive cooling 3x 1212 at 1050 mA?
500 x 150 x 25 (17 fins) or 500 x 125 x 35 (11 fins)? Base thickness is 5 mm on both. One have less fins, but have more height... Other is oposite. DIY LED calculator have strange numbers so widther is not better as I would aspect.
Can someone please calculate me numbers?
@SupraSPL
500 x 150 x 25 (17 fins) or 500 x 125 x 35 (11 fins)? Base thickness is 5 mm on both. One have less fins, but have more height... Other is oposite. DIY LED calculator have strange numbers so widther is not better as I would aspect.
Can someone please calculate me numbers?
@SupraSPL
BlazedLeprechaun
Member
parts are starting to arrive already
) only difference was i went for the 1400a instead, a bit more current if i want it and i can still use the internal potentiometer to dim for various stages, i'll just have to guesstimate someWatt 
I'm so feckin excited haha
Halfandhalf
Well-Known Member
If I were to build a 210 w system of 3x vero 29 @~50v 1400mah what size heatsink should I get from heatsinkusa? My tent is 32"x32" with two other lights already in there so I want to put this one in the middle. Also have a carbon filter that is contending for space at the top so I was thinking something like a 4.6" width, 1.6" height (with serrated fins) and 12" length with two 120mm fans on top and the drivers attached if possible. Should I use one 120mm fan per cob or would that be fine? Are the drivers for the fans and lights bad to put on the same heatsink?
Last edited:
BlazedLeprechaun
Member
Not "bad" per say, your driver will emit heat so if you are mounting it on the heatsink it will have an effect on cooling. My driver is noticably warm to the touch when running the full 1.4A (which i don't as i get light burn signs).
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Depends on current flowing thru the COB. At 1080mA maybe ~50-52%, @540mA ~55%. Pin heatsinks are great for passive cooling. Check cobkits.com he has diffent heatsinks tuned to the entire Citizen / Lumious COB series.
Ø120mm should be fine for up to 1400mA(~50w).
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Nope, a bit on the high side but that could be the correct numbers(depending on case temps).
Mine was an estimation, I do not own Citi COB's. Only Blux, Cree + Luminous till today and a few of the cheap chinese crap for testings, lol!