HELP Seedlings leaves clawing down burn on leaf tips and fringes and stunted Growth

Ok so i first want to say all 8 seedlings are of the same strain, og#18 by reserve privada they are currently in 6" pots with ocean forest organic soil they were transplanted from 4" pots in which they were in Happy frog organic soil, When they started in the 4 inch pots after about a week growth really slowed and they started showing signs of the claw so i transplanted them at about 2 and a half weeks to 6" pots and ocean forest soil hoping for some new vigorous growing instead they have basically stunted and the few new sets of leaves that have come in started out looking normal but within a day or 2 began to claw as well and as time has gone on they remain stunted and now starting to get rust colored burn on the edges of clawed leaves and on the tips of other leaves,

Up until yesterday they had not gotten any nutes whatsoever so that is definitely not the cause of the clawing down or burning, im hoping the light feeding could have an impact and maybe kickstart things
here are some pics of the seedlings




Last but not least heres the real kicker about half of my flowering plants which are at about 4 and a half 5ish weeks in are displaying the same burning rusting patters from the leaf tips and leaf fringes in making for a few sickly looking plants ill try to add a few pics of those tomorrow but im just looking for any tips or info on what i might be dealing with i dont think its nitrogen toxicity but its the only thing that looks remotely close to what i have with my plants so any advice is GREATLY appreciated

Cross,
When a whole garden goes bad...I look for something they all have in common. And with all the brown spotting...my first thought is water.

Are you using tap water and what is the ph and ppm of said H2O.
JD

JohnDee said:

Cross,
When a whole garden goes bad...I look for something they all have in common. And with all the brown spotting...my first thought is water.

Are you using tap water and what is the ph and ppm of said H2O.
JD

Click to expand...

Yes i am using tap water and i have never tested it before which is probably foolish on my part, i did the hardwater test with water and dish soap and it doesnt seem like i have hardwater, but ill be picking up a ph testing kit tomorrow morning, at this point its the only thing i can think of that would be causing this other than the soil

Cross,
Another rough guide is to look at your ice cubes. Distilled water makes nice clear cubes while water with lots of calcium and other minerals makes cloudy ice cubes. I'd be betting your water is a good part of your current problems. Let us know what the ph is. I'm guessing ph 8.
JD

JohnDee said:

Cross,
Another rough guide is to look at your ice cubes. Distilled water makes nice clear cubes while water with lots of calcium and other minerals makes cloudy ice cubes. I'd be betting your water is a good part of your current problems. Let us know what the ph is. I'm guessing ph 8.
JD

Click to expand...

So i bought a ph testing kit i tested my tap water that ive been using and it came out to about 7.5ish a light green color, on the test kit it says plants do best in slightly acidic soild usually between 5.5 and 6.5, This is possibly a big breakthrough for me as it could be the answer to not just this current issue but past nutrient issues and problems ive had with my grows, so i am slightly optimistic that i can solve this issue and really dial in my growing cycles, I also picked up some PH up and PH down so my question going forward would be what ph i should aim for low end of 5.5 high end of 6.5 or in the middle at 6? and do i want my nutes and water to be slightly different ph like 5.5 and 6, or 6 and 6.5? or just aim for the same PH for water and nutrient solution?

Cross,
Always add nutrients to the water first. Let it sit for a bit...then test and correct ph. Ph 6.5 is normally good for soil...but since you're correcting an existing issue, might not be a bad idea to shoot a little lower. Maybe ph 6. One thing people do to get a bit of an idea about what's actually happening in the soil is to test runoff water when you feed or water. If the nutrient solution is corrected to ph 6 for example...but runoff is ph 7...well then you know the soil is even higher. It isn't rocket science but a rough guide.

And ph isn't the only issue with water. The dissolved solids in the water are what's making it ph 7.5. Those are usually some Ca compound or another. Did you look at your ice cubes? Cloudy? People use EC or PPM meters to evaluate that. If you have a water company in town...they might test it for you with hopes of selling you an RO system. Generally ppm of 200 and below is good. I grew in a location with ppm of 330 and plants did poorly till I got an RO system.
Good luck,
JD

Yes ph the water and the nutrient solution to the same desired ph...

JohnDee said:

Cross,
Always add nutrients to the water first. Let it sit for a bit...then test and correct ph. Ph 6.5 is normally good for soil...but since you're correcting an existing issue, might not be a bad idea to shoot a little lower. Maybe ph 6. One thing people do to get a bit of an idea about what's actually happening in the soil is to test runoff water when you feed or water. If the nutrient solution is corrected to ph 6 for example...but runoff is ph 7...well then you know the soil is even higher. It isn't rocket science but a rough guide.

And ph isn't the only issue with water. The dissolved solids in the water are what's making it ph 7.5. Those are usually some Ca compound or another. Did you look at your ice cubes? Cloudy? People use EC or PPM meters to evaluate that. If you have a water company in town...they might test it for you with hopes of selling you an RO system. Generally ppm of 200 and below is good. I grew in a location with ppm of 330 and plants did poorly till I got an RO system.
Good luck,
JD

Click to expand...

I havent tested the runoff yet or the nutrient mixture but will be doing that either tonight or tomorrow, as for the ice cubes aside from some air bubbles theyre pretty clear, so im thinking its not a PPM thing and more of the Water im using being far too alkaline for their liking, as the 7.5 range seems pretty high so im really hoping altering the PH of the Plain water as well as the nutrient mixture makes a big difference, but this problems really seems to be stemming from the high alkaline water, at least im hoping

OK, sounds good...good luck,
JD

JohnDee said:

OK, sounds good...good luck,
JD

Click to expand...

PH of untreated water is 7.5 roughly

So Did some ph testing and adjusting tonight, I figured out exactly how much PH down to use to balance a 2 gallon watering container to where i was able to get it right where i want it at about a ph of 6 (yellow),

Interestingly enough when i tested my nutes and water solution (iguana juice) i found that 15ml of IG per gallon balances the alkalinity in the water i tested out the solution and it was right where i want it to be at about 6ph(yellow)

I watered my flowering plants with PH Treated plain water and the runoff was slighlty more acidic which was expected since they just got a nutrient solution the day before thanksgiving.

Of my flowering plants 2 are sickly and very much displaying an advanced stage of what the seedlings are going through and about half of my overall flowering plants are suffering from the same type of burn as the seedlings which really leads me to believe they have all been affected by the highly alkaline water and thus locking out nutrients which is think is the key going forward because other than that i feel i have my conditions and setup dialed in so hoping the continued use of PH balanced water and nutes will help everything recover a bit and make for smoother sailing for the next rotation; Cautiously optimistic at this point

Dank,
Cautious optimisn is always a good position. The deal with ph being out of range isn't any kind of damage or burn as you stated. It's that each nutrient will only be taken up by the plant roots within a certain ph range. Have you seen that chart that's often posted?

View attachment 2913414

It shows those ranges. So ph issues end up causing nutrient deficiencies. And also there's the issue of nutrient interations where too much of one can cause lack of absorption of others. It gets to be like a damn chmistry class! lol
Here's what Uncle ben has to say about the whole issue...just to complicate things.

https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/251235-stop-blaming-issues-ph-people.html

Cheers,
JD