Help with when to start feeding and soil mixture, please +rep!!!

socom3riot

socom3riot

Well-Known Member
For a soilless mix. Or a soil that I mixed myself out of peatmoss, perlite , vermiculite. Knowing there is no nutes at all in the soil , how long should I wait until I start adding nutrients? Or should I start adding them right away since theres none in the soil?

Also , with peatmoss perlite and vermiculite, I was told to do a 1/3 of each mixture, think that would be ok ? What do you recommend if not?

Thanks for the help!
 
My soil was an organic mix of peat moss, compost, etc... No nutes, I waited until about 22 days into vegg before I added any nutes, and I added a 1/4 strength at that.
 
mistaphuck said:
are you sprouting a seed in it or repotting into it?
Click to expand...

Im starting from a seed.


My soil was an organic mix of peat moss, compost, etc... No nutes, I waited until about 22 days into vegg before I added any nutes, and I added a 1/4 strength at that.
Click to expand...

ya but the compost acted as a nutrient for a while didnt it? Im starting with absolutely no nutrients.
 
really 3 weeks with no nutes? remember the soil has absolutely no added nutrients to it at all. its not one of those miracle gro soils. Its my own mix.
 
really any type of new soil that you use (or soiless mix) has natural nutrients in it, which your plant will use during the vital first stages of your grow. Give them time to absorb what your mix has to offer, and then you can add a light dose of nutes. this is why everyone says wait until week 3 no matter what to start ferting your plants. that, and your plants probably wouldnt be able to take any type of additional nutrients in its seedling stage because theyre so small. i actually tried to test this theory out with this grow that im on right now, and i ended up burning my plants a little bit. My soil is made up of FF ocean forest, Perlite, Dolemite Lime, and a tiny ass bit of vermiculite.

The best thing you can do right now is to just use smaller starter pots for your seeds, to get them started, because its easier for your lighting system to heat up a smaller pot, and keep the soil completely warm, as opposed to using a huge pot, and having that little seed in the center get cold, and die off on you. so use your soil mix (premixed before you put into the starter pots), and start the seeds off in the little pots for the first 2 weeks, and then transplant into your larger pots for the rest of the grow, watering them in with just water. once the plants have adjusted, and have about 4 nodes, then hit them with a light dose of nutes on the third week - about 1/4 strength the recommended doseage. After that, just slowly start increasing the doseage until you find out whats right for your plants. just remember, give your plants nutes with every other watering once you start - you dont wanna burn out your plants, plus this will also slow down any type of significant nutrient salt buildup, by giving the plants ph'd water every other watering.

So at three weeks - 1/4 strength nutes in your water. when the soil is dry again, feed with just ph'd water. next time soil is dry, nutes again, and so forth and so on.

hope that helped a little bit, and i also hope im not repeating what other people on here have been saying to you the whole time, lol.

-K1
 
K1Ng5p4d3 said:
really any type of new soil that you use (or soiless mix) has natural nutrients in it, which your plant will use during the vital first stages of your grow. Give them time to absorb what your mix has to offer, and then you can add a light dose of nutes. this is why everyone says wait until week 3 no matter what to start ferting your plants. that, and your plants probably wouldnt be able to take any type of additional nutrients in its seedling stage because theyre so small. i actually tried to test this theory out with this grow that im on right now, and i ended up burning my plants a little bit. My soil is made up of FF ocean forest, Perlite, Dolemite Lime, and a tiny ass bit of vermiculite.

The best thing you can do right now is to just use smaller starter pots for your seeds, to get them started, because its easier for your lighting system to heat up a smaller pot, and keep the soil completely warm, as opposed to using a huge pot, and having that little seed in the center get cold, and die off on you. so use your soil mix (premixed before you put into the starter pots), and start the seeds off in the little pots for the first 2 weeks, and then transplant into your larger pots for the rest of the grow, watering them in with just water. once the plants have adjusted, and have about 4 nodes, then hit them with a light dose of nutes on the third week - about 1/4 strength the recommended doseage. After that, just slowly start increasing the doseage until you find out whats right for your plants. just remember, give your plants nutes with every other watering once you start - you dont wanna burn out your plants, plus this will also slow down any type of significant nutrient salt buildup, by giving the plants ph'd water every other watering.

So at three weeks - 1/4 strength nutes in your water. when the soil is dry again, feed with just ph'd water. next time soil is dry, nutes again, and so forth and so on.

hope that helped a little bit, and i also hope im not repeating what other people on here have been saying to you the whole time, lol.

-K1
Click to expand...

that was perfect and exactly what I needed to hear. Thx. As for the mixture of peatmoss, perlite, vermiculite. Should I do what the vid said and do 1/3 of each? or should I have more of one of those than the others?
 
Hey man read this guide, it really helped me out with soilless mixes. And if u mixed it yourself that means there probably no starter nutes in it. So i would start fertilising from the time you see the 2nd set of leaves. Works good for me but just be very precise as to the amount of ferts.



Soilless mixtures can be treated with a trace-element solution. We have grown crops with no special addition of trace elements, and the plants completed their lives without showing symptoms of trace-element deficiency. In these cases there were apparently enough trace elements in the lime and the fertilisers that were used to provide the major nutrients. Many all-purpose fertilisers also contain trace elements. However, it is a good idea to treat soilless mixtures with a mild solution of trace elements before planting. Large plants can be treated a second time during the third or fourth month of growth. Do not use trace elements more often unless plants show definite trace-element deficiencies.
Iron is the only trace element that is needed in more than minute quantities. Iron can be supplied by mixing a few brads or nails into the soilless mixture.
Use any soluble fertiliser that is complete, that is, that contains some of each of the major nutrients. Choose one with a formula that is highest in N but contains a good portion of both P and K. For example, Rapid-Gro is 23-19-17 and works well for soilless mixtures.
Table 18 gives a formula that has worked well for us. The figures in it are a guide for estimating the amounts of fertiliser to use. When choosing a fertiliser by means of this chart, use N for a guide. For example, suppose the only fertiliser you can find that has good proportions of the major nutrients as a 20-15-15. Divide 5 (the figure for N in the table) by 20 (the figure for N in the fertiliser), and get the result 1/4. That is, the fertiliser if four times as concentrated in N as you need; so you would use one-fourth the amount of fertiliser shown in Table 18. For instance, during the vegetative stage, you would give the plants one-half to three-fourths of a level teaspoon of fertiliser per gallon of water each time you water.
Table 18 - Guidelines for Fertilizing Soilless Mixtures

Growth Stage N P2O5 K20 Amount
Seedling 5 3 4 1.5 to 2 tsp/gal
Vegetative 5 2 3 2 to 3 tsp/gal
Flowering 5 5 3 0.5 tp 1.5 tsp/gal It is also not necessary to fertilise in these ratios. You could use a 10-10-10 fertiliser throughout growth; you would use half the amounts listed in Table 18. The most important point is that the plant receive enough of each element, not that they receive specific proportions.
Fertilising according to volume of fertiliser is not very accurate, and also does not take into account other variables (such as variety, light, temperature, etc.) that determine the amounts of nutrients your plants can use. However, it is a simple and useful way of estimating the plant's needs. You can more accurately gauge the plants' needs by giving a sample plant twice the concentration of fertiliser, and another half the concentration. Their performance will give you an idea of whether you are using too much or too little fertiliser. Too much fertiliser is the most damaging condition; so when in doubt give the plants less rather then more. Do not continue to give the plants the recommended amounts of fertiliser if the sample plant that is receiving less nutrients is growing as well as the other plants.
Another way of monitoring the plant's growth is to grow a few plants in a standard soil mixture. This will show you whether the plants in the soilless mixture are growing as fast as they should, and will give you a reference for diagnosing deficiencies.
Besides providing N, P, K, and the trace elements, you must also give your plants secondary nutrients. Ca is added by mixing a tablespoon of lime or two tablespoons of wood ash when preparing the soilless mixture. (Calcium is usually present in water and in many fertilisers as part of the salts that contain nutrients, for example, Ca(NO3)2.) Magnesium and sulfur are both found in common epsom salts, MgSO4. Use one-eighth teaspoon of epsom salts to each teaspoon of 5 percent N. For example, if you are using a 20 percent N fertiliser, you would use half a teaspoon of MgSO4 to each teaspoon of fertiliser. (Actually, enough sulfur is often present, either as part of the soilless mixture or as part of nutrient salts to allow growth.) Magnesium can also be supplied by using dolomitic limestone.
 
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