HELPPP PLEASE PLANTS NEED HELP

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
pH should be between 5.8 and 6.5 ppm is suggested to be 300 to 400 first half of veg, 450-700 for second half of veg, 750 to 950 for first half of flowering and 1,000-1600 for 2nd half of flowering. Then close flower as close to 0 ppms as possible.
Bad advice man. He's in soil and should aim for a pH of 6.5, if he wants to adjust it, but I never needed to do anything with the pH in fresh FFOF. 5-6 pH for hydro, and 6-7 pH for soil is the recommended range. He really shouldn't need to adjust his pH anyways since FFOF already will buffer the pH to some degree, and his water is only 7.0 to begin with.
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
Bugs for sure u think I don’t see nothing ?
They can also be brought in from you, your clothes, your pets, and so on. Zoom into your pics and you might see what I mean. That white dot on that leaf is not normal, lol.

You may need a microscope or loupe to see them though. They can be tiny. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news man, but there is measures you can take once you figure out the problem.
 

GroBuddy

New Member
Bad advice man. He's in soil and should aim for a pH of 6.5, if he wants to adjust it, but I never needed to do anything with the pH in fresh FFOF. 5-6 pH for hydro, and 6-7 pH for soil is the recommended range. He really shouldn't need to adjust his pH anyways since FFOF already will buffer the pH to some degree, and his water is only 7.0 to begin with.
If you say so, it's different for each grower. There's so many different variables for everybody. Indoors, outdoors, tent, closet, relative humidity varies. I use fox farm soil and nutes, 5.8 at seedlings and raising it as they veg and into flower to about 6.2 maybe 6.5 if in a hurry any more than that for me over a period of time will cause leaf curling. Maybe it's something else I'm only 5 grows in but I manage my pH and ppms religiously going in and coming out.
 

Smokeythebear1100

Active Member
They can also be brought in from you, your clothes, your pets, and so on. Zoom into your pics and you might see what I mean. That white dot on that leaf is not normal, lol.

You may need a microscope or loupe to see them though. They can be tiny. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news man, but there is measures you can take once you figure out the problem.
This is what ur talking about ?
 

Attachments

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
This is what ur talking about ?
Well I don't see the white speck that looked like a mite or something in that pic, but it looks like you have soil all over those leaves which is not good. Also when you look at the new growth in that pic, it looks really unhappy, like it might have a root or bug issue. I would scope them for bugs if it was me.
 

Wattzzup

Well-Known Member
2-3 oz per plant ?
please stop asking that and focusing on that. Focus on Healthy plants and research. The weight will come. These guys say your light is good.

Me personally I use a TDS meter and check my run off with my organic soil. At about 3-4 weeks that number starts to drop drastically that’s when I start to feed (I’m still working on the exact timing of this for my plants so I can time it better)

Beginner mistakes
Water too much - wait until it’s dry really dry almost too dry. Also in organic soil i really try and slowly water so there is barely any run off the entire first 3-4 weeks

Nutrients too much/too often - listen to these guys and don’t use more than they say. No matter what your buddy who pulls 2 lbs a plant says

Mistake lockout (nutrients too high) - don’t push your first plant to the edge because you don’t even know where the edge is

Light too close/too far - your plant looks good to me and them I’d say your distance is fine

Check ph often. I check what’s going in and what’s coming out and make sure those numbers don’t get too far out of whack
 
Last edited:

Wattzzup

Well-Known Member
If you say so, it's different for each grower. There's so many different variables for everybody. Indoors, outdoors, tent, closet, relative humidity varies. I use fox farm soil and nutes, 5.8 at seedlings and raising it as they veg and into flower to about 6.2 maybe 6.5 if in a hurry any more than that for me over a period of time will cause leaf curling. Maybe it's something else I'm only 5 grows in but I manage my pH and ppms religiously going in and coming out.
When I bring my tap water down to 5.8-6.8 all my seedlings died. As soon as I went back to my plain tap over 8 ph that problem stopped.

IMO if you lower your ph of water into FFOF the first time you start watering you will burn your plant. It’s pretty hot soil.
 

CannaCountry

Well-Known Member
This : "Water: tap ph 7.2 ppm 45" = issues (even in a soil grow). If it were me, before I proceeded to worry about nutrients, yields, lights, etc, etc, etc...I would get my pH dialed in. Do this first and the other adjustments will be easy...don't do it and every adjustment will be a knee jerk reaction to the next. Always build your home on a solid foundation (pH). Good luck friend.
 

TreeFarmerCharlie

Well-Known Member
so none are ready or nutes yet ? should I add cal mag to tap ? my tap is ph 7 and ppm is 50
I think you keep missing the point that people are trying to tell you. You need to lower the pH of your water before you give it to your plants. I would recommend lowering the pH of your water to 6.5. Once you get to 7.0pH, or higher, your plants cannot absorb a lot of what they need. Take a look at this chart to help understand what I'm talking about.
soil-ph-chart-marijuana.jpg
 

TreeFarmerCharlie

Well-Known Member
When I bring my tap water down to 5.8-6.8 all my seedlings died. As soon as I went back to my plain tap over 8 ph that problem stopped.

IMO if you lower your ph of water into FFOF the first time you start watering you will burn your plant. It’s pretty hot soil.
This doesn't make any sense to me. Seedlings prefer a lower pH (closer to 5.5) no matter what they are started in. All of my best soil grows were maintained with a pH of no higher then 6.5. I personally pH all my water to between 6.0 and 6.5.

Edited to add: BTW, I also wouldn't recommend starting seeds in FFOF. Just use plain old peat or some other type of medium that is meant for seedlings.
 
Last edited:

Wattzzup

Well-Known Member
This doesn't make any sense to me. Seedlings prefer a lower pH (closer to 5.5) no matter what they are started in. All of my best soil grows were maintained with a pH of no higher then 6.5. I personally pH all my water to between 6.0 and 6.5.

Edited to add: BTW, I also wouldn't recommend starting seeds in FFOF. Just use plain old peat or some other type of medium that is meant for seedlings.
I start my seedlings in the soil it’s going to finish in. I had no luck when adjusting ph to acceptable range. When it’s straight tap, it’s fine they grow good. No adjustments to my tap were needed with FFOF or the other organic soil I’ve used.

I’ve seen people complaining about ph adjuster killing microbes etc. I’ve had no issues when I use plain tap. I don’t feed for about 25 days give or take
 

Smokeythebear1100

Active Member
I start my seedlings in the soil it’s going to finish in. I had no luck when adjusting ph to acceptable range. When it’s straight tap, it’s fine they grow good. No adjustments to my tap were needed with FFOF or the other organic soil I’ve used.

I’ve seen people complaining about ph adjuster killing microbes etc. I’ve had no issues when I use plain tap. I don’t feed for about 25 days give or take
I planted them straight into there forever home after germination cause there autoflowers that’s what everyone said now that I do it it’s wrong ? Idk this stuff is confusing I’ll lower my ph to 6.5 then I should be alright ? I’m skeptical about the “bugs” I don’t see nothing it’s not white dots it looks like rust.
 

Wattzzup

Well-Known Member
I planted them straight into there forever home after germination cause there autoflowers that’s what everyone said now that I do it it’s wrong ? Idk this stuff is confusing I’ll lower my ph to 6.5 then I should be alright ? I’m skeptical about the “bugs” I don’t see nothing it’s not white dots it looks like rust.
Listen everyone is going to come here and tell you how they do it. You have to to try and figure out what works for your setup. Some things are generally agreed upon. More light up to a certain point, don’t under or over water, etc.

Rust spots are typically calcium deficiency and will clear up with nutrients as long as it has sufficient calcium for your plants needs. Most on here typically add additional calcium supplements to their plant. I use bone meal for the calcium and the phosphorus.

look at your leaves if anything looks amiss check your leaf chart for symptoms and it can lead you in the right direction.

It’s just as helpful to understand why you’re adding the nutrients as it is to know how much to add
 

TreeFarmerCharlie

Well-Known Member
I start my seedlings in the soil it’s going to finish in. I had no luck when adjusting ph to acceptable range. When it’s straight tap, it’s fine they grow good. No adjustments to my tap were needed with FFOF or the other organic soil I’ve used.

I’ve seen people complaining about ph adjuster killing microbes etc. I’ve had no issues when I use plain tap. I don’t feed for about 25 days give or take
I'm thinking the reason you only have luck with high pH water for your seedlings is because of the fact that you are starting them in FFOF and the high pH water is somehow screwing with the nutrient solubility in the soil. Your experience with using a higher pH for seedlings definitely is not common, though.
 

Wattzzup

Well-Known Member
So since the nutrients aren’t available because of the high ph it’s not “over feeding”? Is that what you’re saying?

I honestly don’t know but that’s what I assume it is. Most organic growers that I’ve seen don’t ph. It’s one nice thing about organic.
 
Top