Hempstar 3 Stage LED Grow

dunit

dunit

Active Member
Fredtrick Blunt said:
I hope to keep the room in the mid-high 70's. I might want to just run the system off LED's. I was adding the 2 HID's for coverage, different spectrum, and also because I might struggle with the heating if the room is totally sealed from inflow and the LED's make no heat. Maybe a space heater can solve problems though??

I like the simple fact that the LED's don't draw the power like HID's (which is cheep where I live lol). I figure with 2k I can run the total of everything, I think u said something like the LED's pull less power than rated as they run best like that? Like equivalence of running my computer and bigscreen non-stop, with an oil heater lol... That might actually be more power lol.

Heat is a nil-issue as I can keep it a balmy 76deg or about 24deg celcuis. Which I think will be provided by the space heater. Do LED's also helps out on moisture? How do u find ur moisture with LED's compared to the HID's of old?

Tricky B. :bigjoint:

If u don't care I can chuck up a sketch of how I'd envisioned the system with HID's and also with the LED's I think it'd be a perfect. It just means biting the bullet and buying 6 new Mags... eeep....
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If I was trying to cover an 8 x 10 area I would expect to use about 4000 watts of HID or 2000 watts of LED or mix and match using those ratios. If you need heat then using some HID is a good way to go as at least the power is not wasted like it would be with a space heater.
 
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medicine21

Active Member
dunit said:
If I was trying to cover an 8 x 10 area I would expect to use about 4000 watts of HID or 2000 watts of LED or mix and match using those ratios. If you need heat then using some HID is a good way to go as at least the power is not wasted like it would be with a space heater.
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dunit, I think we gotta be more realistic with LED expectations. Personally, I would plan more for a 20-30% decrease in power to match HID with LED. To match 4000W HPS yield I would budget right around 3000W LED and look for better quality to boot.

You had this 4x4 covered with 600W before, no? Mag draws 180-190W so now let's say you got 190x2=380W LED. If I'm right, then you will not see the same yield as you did with a 600W. If I'm wrong... well shit I will be real happy for you!
 
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medicine21

Active Member
dunit said:
If you need heat then using some HID is a good way to go as at least the power is not wasted like it would be with a space heater.
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I was thinking about this too, since about to replace my HID setup with LEDs, but I guess I would have to put a 1000W on thermostat or something, that would be odd, since it will be coming on and off. Also wouldn't be able to use it on those cold nights.
 
dunit

dunit

Active Member
medicine21 said:
dunit, I think we gotta be more realistic with LED expectations. Personally, I would plan more for a 20-30% decrease in power to match HID with LED. To match 4000W HPS yield I would budget right around 3000W LED and look for better quality to boot.

You had this 4x4 covered with 600W before, no? Mag draws 180-190W so now let's say you got 190x2=380W LED. If I'm right, then you will not see the same yield as you did with a 600W. If I'm wrong... well shit I will be real happy for you!
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It sure doesn't hurt to error on the side of more light so not gonna argue that 3000 would be better than 2000 :-)

Yes I used to cover the same area with 600HPS and would expect a pound from that. Currently have 360 watts of LED and was really expecting to break a pound prior to this nute lockout issue but I caught it fairly quick, just unfortunatley that it happened during prime time for weight gain so we'll see how it pans out.

Definately the construction of the panels is gonna play a big part. Doesn't matter how many watts you have if they are all 1W LED's and/or have wide lenses and/or aren't hitting the right spectrums.
 
dunit

dunit

Active Member
shaggy2dope said:
Do you have any input of the vegatative capabilities of the 357??
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I didn't veg with them so couldn't really give any hands on input. My thought on that are that these lights are set up for penetration and although they would work fine for veg I think they'd be overkill, at least at first. I'd be inclined to find a lower power light with slightly wider lens angle and run simultaneous veg and flower. I've got the next round veggin nicely under my 170 ISIS
 
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shaggy2dope

Active Member
Overkill is my middle name. I decided to build a LxWxH 2.5 x 2.5 x 6.5 ft. I was thinking of using a mix of cfls because i have a few laying around. If the bulbs are 23w what mix should i use.


Like 1 5000K 1 6500k 1 2700k?? or 2 5K and 1 65K

I've used cfls but not with good results so thats why i was wanting to know if it could veg. Also i heard that the uv and ir could hurt the seedlings. Is that true? Couldn't find any reliable facts on that. Couldn't i just raise the light like 3' above and wait till second set of leave and start very gradual lowering of light? sorry really high.

Also thanx for the quick reply +rep
 
dunit

dunit

Active Member
shaggy2dope said:
Overkill is my middle name. I decided to build a LxWxH 2.5 x 2.5 x 6.5 ft. I was thinking of using a mix of cfls because i have a few laying around. If the bulbs are 23w what mix should i use.


Like 1 5000K 1 6500k 1 2700k?? or 2 5K and 1 65K

I've used cfls but not with good results so thats why i was wanting to know if it could veg. Also i heard that the uv and ir could hurt the seedlings. Is that true? Couldn't find any reliable facts on that. Couldn't i just raise the light like 3' above and wait till second set of leave and start very gradual lowering of light? sorry really high.

Also thanx for the quick reply +rep
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In that kind of space the Mag lens angle would definately work in your favor. I would def keep them up high and bring them down slowly. 3 ft would be fine. These lights only have trace amounts of UV and IR and my ISIS has the same and it kills my Metal Halide for overall plant health.

If you are going to use CFL for supplementation I would definately stick with the heavy blue to counter the heavy red of the flowering spectrum. I really like the 2 5K and one 65K as that averages out to about 5500K which is the peak I'd be aiming for.
 
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shaggy2dope

Active Member
So I should leave both spectrums on (the switches on the 357 VEG./FLW.) and supplement with the 2 5000K and a 6500K to help with the veg stage. Then once done with veg should I replace the 3 cfls and get like a 100w cfl 2700K or a bit lower (in kelven) if i can find one i think I've seen one that was 2200K something or other. Or just keep the three cfls the whole grow or just take them out once done with veg?

I really apricreate your time and cooperation on my n00b troubles.
 
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mad dog bark

Well-Known Member
wasnt near as bad as i was thinking fella. i was thinking the worst wen u hadnt updated. so with these new avents do you think will effect the weight much quality or finish time?
 
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mad dog bark

Well-Known Member
me again. by wot you descibed could th problem not just b a sodium chloride build up? you in final 2 weeks yeah? mayb if you do that strain again switch to b.a.c final soloution last couple weeks or 3 or try something simular. swear i read something somewhere about a simular problem which happened to some1. anyways mayb waffling rubbish sorry if i am but just a thought. might b worth researching if u get th time
 
dunit

dunit

Active Member
mad dog bark said:
me again. by wot you descibed could th problem not just b a sodium chloride build up? you in final 2 weeks yeah? mayb if you do that strain again switch to b.a.c final soloution last couple weeks or 3 or try something simular. swear i read something somewhere about a simular problem which happened to some1. anyways mayb waffling rubbish sorry if i am but just a thought. might b worth researching if u get th time
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I think we are talking about the same thing. Nute lock-out is caused by too much salt (nutes) in the medium and the plants just won't uptake anything. They don't even take up much water and look a little wilted. Things are looking better and I will get some pics up tomorrow.

It certainly won't affect the quality and usually lockout for a week wouldn't be a huge hit on weight but I'm in week 7 so it should have been prime time for big feeds and overdrive so I think it's definately gonna have an impact :-(

Live and learn and it's not like it's a total loss and seeing how well things have gone so far I'm certainly back on the LED bandwagon. These new generation of panels are certainly the bomb
 
dunit

dunit

Active Member
shaggy2dope said:
So I should leave both spectrums on (the switches on the 357 VEG./FLW.) and supplement with the 2 5000K and a 6500K to help with the veg stage. Then once done with veg should I replace the 3 cfls and get like a 100w cfl 2700K or a bit lower (in kelven) if i can find one i think I've seen one that was 2200K something or other. Or just keep the three cfls the whole grow or just take them out once done with veg?

I really apricreate your time and cooperation on my n00b troubles.
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I'd add in some heavy blue CFL's for flower if you really want to or the other option would be to switch the Magnum into Veg mode every other day which basically turns off the red spectrum. Either way the more blue the more side branching you will get.

I wouldn't bother with CFL's in flower but they won't hurt anything. Depends if you need the heat because 100watts of CFL will certaily kick off some.
 
Cereall

Cereall

Well-Known Member
looking great... bummer on the lock out issues but hopefully everything clears up soon and they can finish up strong

May i ask how high you run your magnum and also your isis? I am running some LEDs and having a hard time seeing if different light height helps th growth rates... tried everywhere from 8" to 24" and still undecided where to run the lights

thanks and anxiously awaiting to see how your lights finish up those babies
 
dunit

dunit

Active Member
My ISIS I run about 15-18" but that is for veg. If I was to use it for flower I would drop it down to 10-12". My magnum I run at 12"-15" for flower but that is over tall, dense plants. If I was to use it for veg I would definately get it up in the 30" range and slowly lower it down.
 
Cereall

Cereall

Well-Known Member
Thank you greatly for the reply...
Im currently at 16" vegging but with 2w LEDs with 90* angle... i know your magnums are 3w'ers so you can probably run those a little higher with same/better penetration

1 more thing if you dont mind.... do you like to veg under full spectrum or whites/veg lights primarily? (i think your isis are switchable right?)
 
dunit

dunit

Active Member
Cereall said:
Thank you greatly for the reply...
Im currently at 16" vegging but with 2w LEDs with 90* angle... i know your magnums are 3w'ers so you can probably run those a little higher with same/better penetration

1 more thing if you dont mind.... do you like to veg under full spectrum or whites/veg lights primarily? (i think your isis are switchable right?)
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Magnums are 3W and 60 degree lenses so lots more intense and can definately run higher.

I alternate the spectrums. I don't think the heavy red of full spectrum is great for veg and I also don't think that totally excluding red (veg mode) is good for balanced growth/health. I've started running full spectrum on feed days and blue or veg spectrum on water days so it gets switched every two or three days.
 
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shaggy2dope

Active Member
dunit said:
I'd add in some heavy blue CFL's for flower if you really want to or the other option would be to switch the Magnum into Veg mode every other day which basically turns off the red spectrum. Either way the more blue the more side branching you will get.

I wouldn't bother with CFL's in flower but they won't hurt anything. Depends if you need the heat because 100watts of CFL will certaily kick off some.
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Thanks for the reply. Think I'm all set. Thanks for everything. You tha man!
 
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