Here to help... Ask me anything

KittenKiller

Well-Known Member
i just bought these lights off ebay and could you tell me if there going to work and what else do i need to get im growin a small closet got a big plastic tub for container fan im just trying reg for now first time and i wanna use dirt
thats a T5 bud. But if you just wanna veg period and never really focus on flowering, then go for it. It will work best for the early stages of growth but I advise you to get a at least a 400w ballast and a Metal Halide bulb. you will be much better off. be sure the ballast (if you get one that is) is swichable, meaning you can use both Metal Halide and High Pressure Sodium bulbs in there. Then you can swap the MH for the HPS come flowering time.
 

houstonblowskush

Well-Known Member
thats a T5 bud. But if you just wanna veg period and never really focus on flowering, then go for it. It will work best for the early stages of growth but I advise you to get a at least a 400w ballast and a Metal Halide bulb. you will be much better off. be sure the ballast (if you get one that is) is swichable, meaning you can use both Metal Halide and High Pressure Sodium bulbs in there. Then you can swap the MH for the HPS come flowering time.
what he says is the easy and most common way....you can flower with those. Iteachyoukids from breed bay(also featured in high times) uses t-5s all the way thru and his end products are amazing and fat. All you have to do is LST/Train(i.e. scrog) the shit out your plants...keep them low and wide....takes work but the end result is the product and not having to buy another 300 dollar light

me im lazy..so HPS is where im at
 

houstonblowskush

Well-Known Member
Please forgive me if that has already been answered, I have searched extensively and can not find a clear answer:

I have a 1000w and a flood table with about 15 plants in it, i have a huge blower sucking air out of the room and blowing air through my 1000 watt up into the attic and that keeps the room at a nice 78 degrees, I have a portable A/C but I havent had to use it yet, but its nice to have.

MY QUESTION IS. I have 2 options(PLEASE correct me if im wrong)

1) Suck air from somewhere outside of the room to cool off my fans, which would create no air coming out of the room, and then I could use my co2 that i forked so much money for but have no way to hook up a carbon filter and do some odor control... OR

2) Suck air from inside the room through a carbon filter, cool my fans, and everything work fine except NOT use my co2.


Is there ANY way to exhaust air from the room and still use co2? I would like exhaust and filter air out of the room, but i still want to use my co2, is this possible?
if you had to choose go option 2. Theres i way to do all those things. Im not going to suggest away because Ive yet o do it on my own grow....goto the grow room design section...there's alot of peeps with experience that can help u better...pics or a digram would help alot as well
 

houstonblowskush

Well-Known Member
i've looked at a lot of seedbanks and determined that seedboutique is the shizznit. the prices are hella lower than most sites. other sites are complete bullshit compared to seedboutique.com bc they charge u a couple hundred bucks for something u can easily get for well under 100. shippings kinda slow tho- ~2 wks.
Ive heard great things as well..me personally I only mess with attitude but I may try nirvina or seedboutique just so I know what one I perfer over the other w/o being biassed. Dont take our words for it though. https://www.rollitup.org/seedbank-reviews/ <<<that section has plenty of reveiws go with your gut and buy at your own risk.
 

iDrops

Active Member
I posted yesterday about not being able to get my seeds to sprout and what do you know. I check first thing this morning and theres a little sprout just chillin. So i put it under 2 42w CFLs to veg and hopefully grow. Does this mean i need to start the 18/6 cycle? My plan was to veg under CFLs for 2 weeks then veg under the HPS and then start flowering. I need some advice. All answers appreciated. Thanks
 

MrFishy

Well-Known Member
Do u think my reply was meant to make u laugh like it was a fucking joke? i saw nothing funny in it. and ya i was serious dumbass.
Forty years of growing says you are 100% incorrect in telling anyone to water an with one ounce of water daily . . . EVER.
If you're gonna give shitty advice, ya gotta expect those that know better to question it.
It's fools like this that make RIU just another grow site rather than THE grow site.
I saw nothing funny in it, either. Just bad, wrong advice.
 

KittenKiller

Well-Known Member
Forty years of growing says you are 100% incorrect in telling anyone to water an with one ounce of water daily . . . EVER.
If you're gonna give shitty advice, ya gotta expect those that know better to question it.
It's fools like this that make RIU just another grow site rather than THE grow site.
I saw nothing funny in it, either. Just bad, wrong advice.
im trying to handle this thread now that masterofgenetics is gone and cant afford to spend a lot of time on each reply. if you know better, apply your knowledge here by answering grow questions, not starting shit with other ppl.
 

Droski7

Well-Known Member
Hey Master, i was fixing to start my first organic grow, and i was wondering for my soil medium i was thinking about mixing up compost, worm castings, soil, vermaculite, perlite, and peat moss. Do you think this is a good mix???? please help. Thanks
 

pressDUCK

Active Member
what is the smallest grow box i can make.

like 2 plants.

what supplies would i need?

One option people have done is to grow inside of an empty computer case. You could keep in the power supply and use it to power fans a couple fans to keep the box cool and help the stems grow strong. Maybe put in a couple of 75 watt bulbs, you could probably fit in 3 or more compact flourescents. you would be looking to grow in a sea of green method - Trimming all the side branches and focusing on growing one massive bud. Soil would be the easiest to grow in, though a small hydro system could be hooked up pretty cheaply - just a rubbermaid container, a water pump and some net pots. Either way you will want nutrients, fertilizer. Plenty of info can be found on rollitup.org Search for terms like 'steath' , swc (shallow water culture) dwc (deeep water...) An old chest of drawers (dresser) can also make a decent grow chamber. Rip of the drawers and attach the drawer faces to a piece of plywood to make it look like a normal dresser. Inside you could run a couple plants in a 'scrog' screen of green. Throw in a 400 watt metal halide/high pressure sodium (spend the money on a switchable light ballast) . Line the inside with reflective mylar. Use a swc or dwc hydro method, train the branches through a 4" square screen to keep all bud sites equidistant to the lights and If all goes nicely you could harvest up to 8 oz from that 1 400watter and two plants. Hope this helps some, I don't really know much but what I have read.
 

pressDUCK

Active Member
Hey Master, i was fixing to start my first organic grow, and i was wondering for my soil medium i was thinking about mixing up compost, worm castings, soil, vermaculite, perlite, and peat moss. Do you think this is a good mix???? please help. Thanks
In his absence I can say with relative certainty that Masterofgenetics would probably recommend coconut fiber. He has mentioned it several times in this thread and if you check out his pics you can see that he is growing in it. I found some more info in this thread: https://www.rollitup.org/newbie-central/27512-coconut-fiber-soil.html

I'm not trying to speak for him and I certainly don't have his experience, but I feel coco is worth a look...

Just trying to keep this thread alive as it is becoming a nice repository of knowledge.
 

Mr.StickyFingers

Active Member
Well Ive got about six plants that have all sprouted some farther along than others in my basement grow room. Sproutin with some cfl's and veggin with 400w HPS. But neways, in about a month Id like to transplant the girls outdoors to make room for some better herb im growing. What kind of soil am I looking to plant in. The area I have designated is heavy with pine trees and a very needly topsoil. I dug down about 5 inches to find it relativley rocky with an excessive amount of roots and a grainy type of dirt. I mashed it up the best I could and I plan on doing this repeatedly to try to make the plot growable. Should I throw some storebought soil on top and some potash to bring down the acidic nature of the pine soil or try and plant in the existing soil? And one more question, I have the plants currently in some 8 inch pots under the 400w. How many pots could I fit comfortably and get a nice healthy plant?

Thanks
 

pressDUCK

Active Member
Well Ive got about six plants that have all sprouted some farther along than others in my basement grow room. Sproutin with some cfl's and veggin with 400w HPS. But neways, in about a month Id like to transplant the girls outdoors to make room for some better herb im growing. What kind of soil am I looking to plant in. The area I have designated is heavy with pine trees and a very needly topsoil. I dug down about 5 inches to find it relativley rocky with an excessive amount of roots and a grainy type of dirt. I mashed it up the best I could and I plan on doing this repeatedly to try to make the plot growable. Should I throw some storebought soil on top and some potash to bring down the acidic nature of the pine soil or try and plant in the existing soil? And one more question, I have the plants currently in some 8 inch pots under the 400w. How many pots could I fit comfortably and get a nice healthy plant?

Thanks
Here's some nice info by a grower far more advanced than I (from the Overgrow FAQ):
Contributed by: Leaf

A lot of the times I turn the existing soil without adding much to it, and have an excellent crop, but some sites need soil improvements. This FAQ will outline how to prepare and enrich your outdoor site.

It is best to prepare your area(s) in the fall for planting the following spring. Doing this will allow the soil additives to break down, releasing their nutrients into the soil. Simply turn the top layer of your previously prepared plots before planting at the beginning of the season. If you cannot prep your locations ahead of time, prepare them as soon as possible.

Clearing the area:
The fall is the best time to clean an area of brush and fallen trees/branches. I personally wouldn't fall a tree in the middle of nowhere.
The size of plot depends on how many plants you have. Planting in natural clumps or singularly is also dependant on preference.

The expected yield varies greatly, depending on conditions, strain and TLC.

How do I prepare the site?
I unfold a small tarp on the ground at the spot that I want to amend. Then I dig a 2' x 2' (minimum) hole, placing all the material I remove onto the tarp. I keep digging down until I reach the clay layer. I will remove the clay separately, in a 5 gallon bucket, and move it into a secluded location near by (Try to fill a natural depression with the clay, then cover with leaves and twigs).

I usually dig the hole to a depth of about 2.5 – 3’ feet; little if any material needs to be removed from the hole once I have removed the clay. Once completed, I loosen and break up the clay layer to a loose consistency so the roots can penetrate deeper.

I mix the soil layers on the tarp together, breaking up large chunks with my shovel. I then return about one third of the soil from the tarp back into the hole. Then the remaining soil is mixing in with some soil conditioners, depending on how fertile the original soil is and what I feel the soil needs.

Once I have added all the ingredients I feel the particular area requires, I then blend this material on the tarp and fill the hole with the mix. Loosely compact the mix by patting it down with a shovel, stepping on it, etc. A slight depression usually remains, naturally trapping water when it rains or when watering/feeding.

Soil conditioners: (A list of some of the components I add).

Perlite and vermiculite (sometimes I use Sunshine Mix #1 or #4 instead, if I feel the original dirt it is lacking in rich topsoil)

dolomite or hydrated lime

green sand

wood ash

blood meal / bone meal

glacial rock dust

worm castings

compost

pre-composted manure (chicken, rabbit, cow, bat guano, seabird, etc)

fish (Dice the entire fish into 2” cubes so it will decompose at a quicker rate)


I feel the lime and compost are important ingredients because they react together, rapidly breaking down the nutrients to an available form to the roots, as well as creating heat while decomposing.

Blood meal and bone meal are excellent additions; ensure that you also use lime to mask the smell from bears and other animals.

Perlite and vermiculite plots stand out in the wilderness, especially if you’ve prepared your spot(s) the previous fall. Make sure you have 3”+ inches of soil covering these little white pebbles. Watering tends to make these little white buggers float and settle to the top, so make sure they are buried good.

An alternative to Perlite, vermiculite, or Sunshine Mix soils is coco-fibers. These fibers are shredded coco husks, and are excellent for providing aeration and water absorption. These fibers also seem to promote vigorous root growth, as the roots shoot along the fibers as opposed to grinding through dirt. Coco fibers are brown, so the plots look natural.

Dry/remote area tips:
Polymer crystals can be added to the mixture; they are great for absorbing and slowly releasing water. I recommend pre-expanding the crystals overnight in a bucket of water before using them at your site. They work great in grow bags too.

Another tip is to line the outside edges and bottom of your hole with plastic. This will trap all the moisture inside your hole. Just ensure to perforate the plastic at the bottom of the hole, because your plants will drown if the roots are left in water.

The site has been prepared! Now pack up everything and leave without making a trace. How much site prep and what conditioners to add depends on how remote your area is, how much enrichment is needed, and whether or not you are willing to pack all these ingredients to the area(s).
 

Mr.StickyFingers

Active Member
More than helpful my dood. My four foot tall grow room isnt turning out to be that great as I start getting feedback so it looks like I'm heading outdoors this season. Thanks for the reply
 

houstonblowskush

Well-Known Member
Hey Master, i was fixing to start my first organic grow, and i was wondering for my soil medium i was thinking about mixing up compost, worm castings, soil, vermaculite, perlite, and peat moss. Do you think this is a good mix???? please help. Thanks
No pint in guessing what a good mix is..if you do know cool..if not why risk it?

Try these links to proven soil mixes that many growers have used
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=53792

https://www.rollitup.org/subcools-old-school-organics/44686-subcools-super-soil.html

the foundation has been layed now all you have to do is put your house on it.:joint:
 

cee

Active Member
Had a plant on 12/12 for about 3 weeks to determine the sex...after it had pistils growing and the start of a bigger flower on top I took 5 clones and put them in a vegging dome on 22/2 cycle. I then put the mother back into the 22/2 veg room. Will it eventually go back to veg state (the flowers left seem to be growing)? :-|:cry:Will I be able to continue using it as a mother or should I just throw it back into flowering room and use one of the clones as a new mother???:dunce:
 

ClosetKing

Well-Known Member
been asking this around without response.
is it safe to use a juice container for a growing pot? im talking about 960 mL oasis containers, basically a super-sized juice box. i think theyd be the perfect size for a SOG in a tight space, but im wondering if they contain any toxic materials?
 

bossman88188

Well-Known Member
alright heres my question. i have a white mold problem. i have 35% humidity, have done ohsos sulphur boil tip,neem oil, bleach, and it keeps coming back in my brand new grow room. temps never go above 82 f and humidity highest is 45% after watering.
so i ordered a sulphur burner and it will be here friday.
can i burn the sulphur all through flower, and will it stick to my trichs.and will it really kill it.
also how long does the dust have to sit on the leafs? can i clean it off after a certain amount of time. any help will be greatly appreciated.
 
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