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Masterofgenetics

New Member
It could have been born with defects... All seeds that are not stablized will have different Pheno's (genes) like you share the same parents but all your siblings look different.... You know how you can have two parents with black hair and they end up with a red head...

My first and most logical suggestion is flower out the mutant plant and the one thats thriving use as a mom and take clones from her ... Because you can grow 20 good size plants with one 600.... I'd say fill the space up...

And with your plant it sounds like you should drill new holes in the bottom of your pot(1/2inch or larger) because the old ones clogg up and the plant will be sitting in water and it's the eaiset way to make mold or bact, Then use eplsom salt 1 tea spoon per gallon sounds like you have a mag def... then flush you plants with fresh water every two weeks
themightybooth said:
Hi Im a new grower with 2 blueberry plants under 600W HPS a week appart at week 5 and 4. one plane is thriving and has been moved to a large pot the other plant however is growing very short and thick and hos not show significent growth in a while now. Do you know any possible reasons for this?
Also some bottom leaves on both plants have begun to turn yellow with brown spots and are rather chrispy to the touch. The majority of leaves are also quite droopy yet foliage is thick.
Is this and over watering or nitrogen problem?
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M

Masterofgenetics

New Member
alright seeds or clones can be on 24 hours of light (i use 24) or 18 hours on 6 hours off for vegging then 12 on 12 off until the end....its your choice when you want to flower and you cause it to flower by switching the light hours to 12/12
Dknot said:
what kind of lighting cycles do the plants need from seedling to veg to flower to harvest? :P
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M

Masterofgenetics

New Member
Are you using a dome? your light should not burn them in a dome

2nd I would use reverse osmosis water... Its the stuff thats in the big ozarka bottles, that you take to the store to refill..


I don't who why weed hates tap water so much? and also you can let your water sit over night (without nutes) and it will remove the choroine...

Have you PH'd your H2o?
fleezy said:
i need help i think?I germd 30 seeds 7 days ago.Put them in rockwool after a day or two when they had poped.10 have sprouted so far but that was after a few days no signs of more the last 4 days.I have a heat pad under,temps at 75-80,rh is 40-55.I ve started a 26w cfl on the sprouts. could that be hurting the ones that havent sprouted?Also the sprouts seem to look a little sickly with some spots that look sticky,but not through the whole leaf just spots?And some edges look maybe light burned?This is my first grow and im panicking that these seeds wont grow.The lights are 12-14in from the cubes on a flat.Any info you can spare to me would be help
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LUDACRIS

LUDACRIS

New Member
Masterofgenetics said:
Males are only good for BREEDING and nothing else....(NO THC)
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20.3 Male Plants
Male plants usually do not have the dramatic increase in potency during flowering that the females do. Male flowers take about two weeks to mature, from the time they are first visible as tiny knob-like buds. New flowers continue to appear for several weeks.
When male flowers open and are about to release pollen, they reach their maximum potency. Since all flowers do not mature at the same time, for maximum potency the plants should be harvested after the first few flowers have opened.
Male flowers actually make up little of the total weight of the harvest, and few new leaves form once flowering begins. There is no significant loss in either potency or yield if the male is harvested before its flowers open. Once male flowers appear, there is little change in their potency. Also, once the flowers do open and release pollen, they shortly fall from the plant and are lost to the harvest.
Males should therefore be harvested before any flowers open unless you want the females to produce seeds. In a small garden, male flower clusters can be individually harvested as they mature. Most growers treat male flowers more as a novelty. Potency of male flowers is quite variable, and seldom are they as good as the female flowers. To remove male plants, cut them near the base of the stem. Don't rip them up by the roots if they are near females that will be left to grow.
Male plants normally begin to lose their vigour after the initial bloom. When the weather is mild, or the plants are indoors, they can be encouraged to bloom a second and sometimes a third time before they finally die.
 
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hydrogrow827

Active Member
I have over 150 watts of cfls over my seedlings and the leaves are drooping down like the plant is about to die. On one of the seedlings the underside of one of the seedlings is purple. Now they are supposed to be purple kush so that may not be a bad thing. Whats going on?
 
whitewidow2

whitewidow2

Well-Known Member
Ok... so ive started posting on here and im already growing as some of my previous pics have shown. Probelm is my setup isnt exactly ideal at the moment - i have a cupboard 50cm x 80cm x 165cm with swing open doors at the front and a stand alone fan inside to circulate fresh air.

What i WANT to do is have an inlet and outlet using pc fans to circulate the air and the reason this hasnt been done yet is it involves some modification to the unit.

I understand that fans have a CFM rating (cubic feet per min) and with the help of


https://www.rollitup.org/view.php?pg=...article&id=227

https://www.rollitup.org/view.php?pg=...article&id=229

i have worked out that my cupboard has a cubic volume of 21.62 cubic meters (bit of maths involved 1cm = 0.032ft) so basically i have worked out that i need a fan with a rating of approx 65 (multiplied the cubic volume by 3) ie a 65CFM fan and from my research i see that the 120mm 12v fans have the highest CFM ratings so ill probably go for one of them.

Now im gonna put this fan at the bottom of the grow cupboard to let the air out and eventually carbon filter it...

Whats confusing me is it talks about passive intakes (ie no fan reqd.) i would have thought you needed a fan to push air in to the grow room as well?

And also - once this is done, will i still need my oscillating stand alone fan in the grow room for circulation or will the new setup be enough?

Please anyone who has any experience can you lend me a hand - thank you.

Just posted that - if you can plz send me a pm replying... thx
 
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Masterofgenetics

New Member
Thanks man.... But thats a little misleading... There is no harvest of male plants... How would you trim them or what possible use other then making hemp?

But Im sure you understand it's just not logical to keep a plant you won't use for anything...


LUDACRIS said:
20.3 Male Plants
Male plants usually do not have the dramatic increase in potency during flowering that the females do. Male flowers take about two weeks to mature, from the time they are first visible as tiny knob-like buds. New flowers continue to appear for several weeks.
When male flowers open and are about to release pollen, they reach their maximum potency. Since all flowers do not mature at the same time, for maximum potency the plants should be harvested after the first few flowers have opened.
Male flowers actually make up little of the total weight of the harvest, and few new leaves form once flowering begins. There is no significant loss in either potency or yield if the male is harvested before its flowers open. Once male flowers appear, there is little change in their potency. Also, once the flowers do open and release pollen, they shortly fall from the plant and are lost to the harvest.
Males should therefore be harvested before any flowers open unless you want the females to produce seeds. In a small garden, male flower clusters can be individually harvested as they mature. Most growers treat male flowers more as a novelty. Potency of male flowers is quite variable, and seldom are they as good as the female flowers. To remove male plants, cut them near the base of the stem. Don't rip them up by the roots if they are near females that will be left to grow.
Male plants normally begin to lose their vigour after the initial bloom. When the weather is mild, or the plants are indoors, they can be encouraged to bloom a second and sometimes a third time before they finally die.
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M

Masterofgenetics

New Member
Its cool I gave you rep for your posting thanks bro, I laugh when people ask if they can smoke the males.... Yeah sure you can smoke peanut butter if you want, but I don't suggest it...:lol:
LUDACRIS said:
i never mentiond anything about harvest you said male plants were good for nothing.
i wouldent keep any males but i was just stating a point.
no hassle.
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S

Slane420

Active Member
When my plants sprout do I need to take the lid off and have the light 1 inch above them? (Its a florescent 50wat)
 
C

craigz9876

Active Member
hi i have some clones that i took 10 days ago in a heated propogator under cfls i have noticed today no roots are coming through the rockwool but new growth as all over them, fresh green leaves, does this mean they are ready for the lid off? also they seem like there are a couple of hard spots at the base of the stem just where it meets the rockwool is this normal or do they have problems? thanks
 
M

Masterofgenetics

New Member
How old are they? if they are streching and get to tall to hold there own weight they will fall.. I suggest that you use only a little of light for seeding first two weeks until they harden. Once the plant gets a good root ball then transplant them into a bigger pot...

How far away are your lights?

First I suggest using a a dome with very little light and just mist them a couple times a day...

How much are watering? If you water sit on top of the medium your soil probably is not of good quality..

I suggest coco or perlite or vermiculite or all of them... You want the water to drain right out... If you use two cups of water one cup should come out of the holes.... Stick your finger in the soil.. and if it's moist about a inch to two down then don't water.... If you lift up your pots then you can also tell if you have overwatered... Only water enough to keep them moist (not wet)

If you post pictures it is always more helpful
hydrogrow827 said:
I have over 150 watts of cfls over my seedlings and the leaves are drooping down like the plant is about to die. On one of the seedlings the underside of one of the seedlings is purple. Now they are supposed to be purple kush so that may not be a bad thing. Whats going on?
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M

Masterofgenetics

New Member
No I would say leave it on... let them get tall you want a root ball before you transplant...

Now if your using rooter cubes in the rapid rooter tray I suggest transplanting clones first sign of roots....

These are pictures of mine.. I use rapid rooters for clones, organic coco break apart cubes for seeds and the last picture is some brand new rooter cubes that are cotton like









Slane420 said:
When my plants sprout do I need to take the lid off and have the light 1 inch above them? (Its a florescent 50wat)
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M

Masterofgenetics

New Member
I would leave the lid on till you have roots they will be just fine...
once you get roots them open the holes on the lid for a day or two while the others get caught up.. regardless they will be just fine... I usually transplant right after they root but I am going to start waiting longer from now on...I always get in a hurry...

But I am unsure about the hard spots can you take a picture?

Also
craigz9876 said:
hi i have some clones that i took 10 days ago in a heated propogator under cfls i have noticed today no roots are coming through the rockwool but new growth as all over them, fresh green leaves, does this mean they are ready for the lid off? also they seem like there are a couple of hard spots at the base of the stem just where it meets the rockwool is this normal or do they have problems? thanks
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S

smokiee

Well-Known Member
masterofgenetics, can i use the vf 11 i just bought on my plants? thanks for your help and creating this thread:leaf:
 
M

Masterofgenetics

New Member
No what is it nutes?
And what is the NPK you know where it says like 5-3-5 or what ever...


I suggest a higher N in veg like 5 or 6 and low on the pk side like 0 or 1 ,2 Then some like 2.5-3-5 for flower I will get more in to that if you want me to...
smokiee said:
hello i was wondering if you have heard of elanors vf 11 and if its good for weed plants
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M

Masterofgenetics

New Member
Eleanor's VF-11 Plant Food
Here's that plant food everyone is talking about!!! ​
VF-11 Plant Food will give you that Green Thumb you've been looking for all your life.
If you ever start using it, you will never use anything else. ​
It will never, never burn your plants!! You can't over-do!!
It's odorless! It will not stain!!
It's environmentally friendly...and non-toxic
completely safe around pets and children.
It's as perfect as any plant food could be!!!!
If you love gardening, you're going to love VF-11 Plant Food. ​
VF-11 can be used as a Foliar Feed or as a Root Feed
INDOORS OR OUTDOORS
To Foliar Feed OUTDOORS, use a hose-end sprayer or a tank
type sprayer. VF-11 will be absorbed right through the leaves
JUST AS SOON AS YOU SPRAY IT ON.
You may actually see lovely changes in only one day.
It's that fast!!! You'll be impressed, and so pleased!!!
VF-11 ADDS A WHOLE NEW EXCITEMENT TO GARDENING. ​
You can use VF-11 on all plants, including acid loving ones.
So this immediately eliminates the need to buy a 'special plant food'
for this plant, and a 'special plant food' for that plant.
All you need is VF-11 for all of them...indoors and outdoors.
Use it on your Roses, Azaleas, Fuchsias, Begonias, Orchids,
Geraniums, Camellias, Plumeria, Gardenias, Hibiscus, Hydrangeas,
Bougainvillea, Succulents, Bonsai, Tulips, Ferns, Palms, Cacti,
all bedding plants (impatiens, petunias, pansies, 'snaps' etc) ​
VF-11 is not a 'push' like other fertilizers....think of it as a strength
and health builder. It's loaded with the many minerals so lacking in
in our soils. And it's in a form that your plants can absorb immediately
That's why you see lovely changes, so fast.....it's almost startling! ​
FOLIAR FEED WITH VF-11 ONCE A WEEK, AND YOU
WILL HAVE A GARDEN BEYOND YOUR WILDEST DREAMS!!! ​
For a marvelous experience...use it on your tomatoes, fruit trees, vegetables,
Grapes and berries. You'll increase crop production, and flavor. ​
And you do not need a lot of additives to your soil, like compost etc.
Actually the more virgin soil, the better.
For best results, do not use with other fertilizers.
VF-11 wants to work alone ​
smokiee said:
masterofgenetics, can i use the vf 11 i just bought on my plants? thanks for your help and creating this thread:leaf:
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M

Masterofgenetics

New Member
After reading it... It doesn't say what NPK levels they have but the do make hydroponic nutes...I am sure you can just read the directions really good and use half of what they recommend

smokiee said:
masterofgenetics, can i use the vf 11 i just bought on my plants? thanks for your help and creating this thread:leaf:
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S

Slane420

Active Member
Masterofgenetics said:
No I would say leave it on... let them get tall you want a root ball before you transplant...

Now if your using rooter cubes in the rapid rooter tray I suggest transplanting clones first sign of roots....

These are pictures of mine.. I use rapid rooters for clones, organic coco break apart cubes for seeds and the last picture is some brand new rooter cubes that are cotton like

Click to expand...
Yeah I got a free sample of those at my local hydro store! Was gonna maybe transplant them into those when it goes in veg area. Ok thanks for the help! ;-)
 
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