HOW TO KILL SPIDER MITES 100%: " Naturally - no chemicals"

PopTop said:

Sorry, tried the pepper thing never worked for regular mites let alone the 2 spotted kind the latter builds a resistance to what ever your using if you don't kill them on contact. I use captain jacks which is a spinosad, It's organic, found as a bacteria that grows in the soil of Jamaican rum processing, it kills them on contact again its an organic product, this along with blasts of compressed air (blows off eggs and mites) every 3 days, got rid of an infestation of the 2 spotted mites, took almost 3 weeks to get rid of them, 2 spotted mites lay 20 eggs a day, these eggs hatch in 3 days they become sexually mature in 5 days and a female only has to be impregnated once by a male to make more eggs, that's why you have to spray every 3 days, this works for me and is only my opinion.

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Hey Pop, thanks for sharing your experience, however, no pest will gain resistance to organic, oil-based, remedies because the mode of action is suffocation. Yes, this holds true with pesticides that attack the nervous system, such as Avid, Forbid etc.. Also, regarding Spinosad, as it is an effective bacteria it is not a spot-treatment. The bacteria take time to infect the pest which slowly leads to mortality and I'm not entirely sure Spinosad is approved for use on Cannabis, at least here in CA so it will not be a viable long-term option for the "above-board" operators.

Fyi, we've seen some scenarios where the two-spotted mite will lay eggs every 10-12 hours!

Cheers!

For small spider mite out breaks,I just used diluted rubbing alcohol maybe 40-50% alcohol 50-60% water , add/mix it to a spray bottle. Then get another spray bottle with clean fresh water to rinse off the alcohol from the first bottle that has the mixture.

Spray the leaves with the 50-50 alcohol mixture, only allow the alcohol to stay on the leaves for 1-2 minutes at a time, or you will/may burn the leaves, only long enough to suffocate the mites with the alcohol, then spray the leaves off with the pure fresh water, the floor may contain a few live mites it's better if your able to spray soap water on them or whatever else you might kill them with away from proximity of your plants preferably.

(One idea could be put a couple large white towels down below where your water drippings will collect, I usually hold the plant tilted sideways and spray under and above/below all infected areas, the pressure of the water + alcohol combination helps the mites release from the plant, makes it inhospitable for them for a few minutes....) (edit : also the white towels allows you to see how many mites you've collected, and are easy to kill from there.)

This method works for smaller veg plants and seedlings, not sure about larger plants or plants that are in flower, mites are best caught before flower anyhow....

This method may take some practice and a bit of planning and effort but it do leave a clean chemical free plant for the most part, so I hope this helps, with the right amount effort it can pay off, definitely not a 100% method but worth mentioning.

Also, please forgive me if anyone has already suggested this, I wasn't able to read the entire thread yet, just thought I'd offer something as simple as this, thx friends.

Those bugs are bad.
Only had them once out of all the years I have grown weed.
I learned, I don't wear the same clothes or shoes in my grow rooms that I wear outdoors..

Those bugs are like the Borg.
When I had them I tried everything from need oil to lady bugs to predator mites.
In the end nothing worked.
Had to shut down for a month and clean all equipment with bleach.

got some mites on my OG , gonna try the pepper, I been growing for 40 years , in and outside ,always had good luck with safersoap ,so..... I keep you posted !!

I'm bug free….knock on wood lol

well. i've got my first spider mite infestation. noticed the typical bite marks on the leaves. and finally found the bastards hiding on some fan leaves in the back of the room. defoliated, actually threw out the plant that had it the worst. sprayed neem oil all over the remaining girls. i ordered a sample of that stuff from monster gardens, so ill probably do a 2nd application of neem in a couple days then try that stuff as a 2nd product a few days after that. also have some green cleaner if i need a 3rd.

my question is, i'm on day 18 since the flip, i'm growing an OG that usually takes 8-9 weeks. and i've got little budlets that just started showing hairs within the past week. is it early enough that the neem smell/residue will be gone by harvest? will the hairs recover from the neem oil which has seemed to turn some of them brown a little bit? is there anything else i should do? been growing a little while but never had a bug infestation till now so i'm stressin to say the least.

Mr Blamo said:

Those bugs are like the Borg.

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WE ARE THE BUG
YOU WILL BE ASSIMILATED
YOUR CANNABIS WILL ADAPT TO SERVICE US
WE WILL ADD YOUR BIOLOGICAL AND TECHNOLOGICAL DISTINCTIVENESS TO OUR OWN
RESISTANCE IS FUTILE

[pepper spray ] bug free after 2 applications !.... not very user friendly ...but worked very well ! <..>

Papykush said:

[pepper spray ] bug free after 2 applications !.... not very user friendly ...but worked very well ! <..>

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Did you use any sort of soap in your pepper spray? I've sprayed with pepper spray a couple times, diluted alcohol a few times, but they just wont die out =(

calibuzz said:

HOW TO KILL SPIDER MITES 100%
By Calibuzz - 30 year grower

View attachment 1831939
Cured Clone - see new growth!

You have Spider Mites? YOU HAVE A PROBLEM!!! Unless you are diligent and work hard, the problem will not go away, your crop is doomed as one by one they fail and die.

As a Native American, proud of our heritage and ways in keeping with the environment, I give to you a method that is naturally harmonious, and pure. The method is so benign, you may use this method even during flowering - without a single harm to your precious plants.

The best way is not the easiest by far; to do the perfect job takes comitment - so all you lazy bud heads who want a quick fix: "look elsewhere, or coat your precious medicine with chemicals and poison...and remind me not to smoke your herb."

Editor's note: One will find a bit of cross talk in this thread, and some rude posts. The Editor aplogizes that many have strayed off the central subject and prefer to haze each other. However, one will find many other concerned members with great suggestions and feedback. - calibuzz

"Now then, for all you fervent horticulturists..."

Spider mites are alive; you can make them dead. All life is fragile, but... "how do I kill the mites without hurting my crop?"

I will not use pesticides or harmful chemicals on my plants; thus, I have found an all-natural way to rid the infestations that sometimes occur. Curing your plants takes time and care, but you can rid your babies of the mini-spiders that suck your plant's life's blood.

Spiders have skin-like exoskeletons; the tissues are sensitive to change. Molecules soak though their pours, skin and orifices; thus, what may bother you - a giant living organism - might prove fatal to a spider the size of a pinhead. This is so when using a common group of proteins found in Nature. I will teach you how to naturally and inexpensively rid your plants of the dreaded spider mites.
The Habanera Pepper (sometimes pronounced Habenero) is the key ingredient in pepper spray. Once you make a batch of CALICLEAN you'll see why. One may buy habanera peppers in any vegetable section for about 6 dollars a pound. The peppers are light orange to dark red, and are about the size of a bic lighter when fully mature, most are half that size. Go buy a pound, now!!! If you have mites, time is of the essence.

NOTICE: The spray you make is not harmful to humans (hab peppers are an ingredient in all really good south of the border salsas), but irritating to mucus membranes and soft tissues, it will make you cough - as its like breathing chili powder, so use care.

"GEE, MY PLANT LEAVES ARE DOTTED WITH WHITE SPOTS AND TURNING PALE OR YELLOW."
If you have taken a powerful magnifying glass to the underside of your plant's leaves you will have seen the little off-yellow dots with a brown center that move about slowly over the plant leafs and veins - the mature mites. These big mites leave web-strands like other spiders. Web strands between leaf and stems (as they cross back and forth to new vulnerable leaves), and between leaf serrations are indications of a healthy infestation and big mites on your plants. You may also have seen almost too-hard-to-see little brown dots crawling slowly about. These are the baby mites that will grow into big suckers. You may also have seen groups of little white dots near the central leaf brachiation and the main leaf veins. These are clutches of mite eggs. They will soon hatch and produce up to 80 mites per clutch, per mature mite. You are screwed if you do nothing. But fret not, you can save your plants, and they will recover and thrive - with diligence.

HERE IS WHAT TO DO

Making the Calicleaner

1.) Get a sauce pan - fill with one pint of water - put on lowest flame possible (do not boil !!!).
2.) Chop 4 -5 Habanera peppers fine. Chop open seeds and central membranes, as the power lies there.
3.) Simmer chopped peppers for 20 minutes - making sure not to boil (you will destroy the active proteins).
4.) When you put your head over the pan and the wispy-steam stings your eyes, the Calicleaner is ready.
5.) Pour the Calicleaner through a fine mesh strainer - a little fine grit is OK - let cool in a clean bowl.
6.) Pour room temperature contents in a mister spray bottle. Your are ready to apply.

HOW TO APPLY Calicleaner
1.) Put on gloves, and wear a mask, or at least put a bandana around your nose and mouth.
2.) Turn off all fans - you do not want this spray in your eyes!!!
3.) Spray the bottom of EVERY leaf - starting with the bottom leaves first, work up to the top.
4.) After the bottoms are done, hit the tops and the stems.
5.) Squirt liberally in new leaf pods - tightly wound new leaf growth (the small mites hide there).
6.) Get the heck out of the room till it clears.
7.) Repeat procedure with each plant.
8.) Spray the soil, the pots, and the floor or earth around the area to kill dropping mites and stop migration.
9.) Wash hands with soap and water when complete - the stuff will heat-up skin for 4 hours.
10.) DO NOT WORRY. Though the stuff is lethal to mites, the plants love it.

WHAT&#8217;S NEXT??

Congratulations! You have successfully killed the mites that you sprayed - on contact!. Plus, the mites are thwarted in biting again as they get a lethal dose of hot mouth. Your plants should be turning green again with in half a day. Though the leaves are scarred, they will recover and work again - producing vital sugars for growth.

However, you are not done. Some mites will escape the spray, though you have killed 95% of them. Thus, you will have to do the spray again tomorrow. As a matter of fact you will have to spray every 2-3 days till you see no more mites - usually up to two weeks. SOME EGGS WILL HATCH!!! Thus a week after the first spray, do a super job again, the baby mites are likely out and about. Kill 'em right away.

Use your magnifying glass to inspect each plant carefully, when nothing moves and you see no more webs, your plants are clear. YEAH!!

Additional precautions: make sure your containers and pots do not touch, mites migrate. Clean your floors and equipment so live mites do not return (spray them down with Caliclean). Since no person can kill every living mite in their situation, eternal diligence is now part of the equation. One mite may turn into a million in a month.

Other helpful hints: wash your plants with clean water spray between sprayings, this cleans off dead mites and eggs, and refreshes the plant leaf compromised by the vampire sucking mites. Keep the room cool, 78 degrees to 68 degrees if possible during treatment. Mites hate the cold - thus weakened mites will drop dead. If lower leaves are infested with eggs and mites - cut them off! DO NOT LEAVE CUTTINGS NEARBY! Burn or bury your cuttings far away.

Spraying notes: Mites tend to collect where the leaves join at the nexus and overlap. If you can, lay your plants on-end or position upsidedown (be real careful) to make sure all undersides are sprayed. Cut off curled leaves where they collect. If you're a rich person you may make a full pound to ten gallons of water and dunk them - even better!!

The best part of using Calicleaner is you may use it always - even during flowering. As the solution is all natural, no one is harmed but the mites: "Nature to deal with Nature." Your money goes to a farmer not a chemical corporation.

Caliclean works,

Check often; check carefully; your plants will thank you with fine flowering! Be good to your Natural Medicine, and it will be good to you.

Good Luck and best wishes, "How Ni Kan, Megwetch," Peace be with you always,

Calibuzz

View attachment 1831939View attachment 1831941View attachment 1831940

Image one: Cured Clone - see new growth.
Image two: Cured Nursery - all plants mite free after caliclean!
Image three: After the Storm - I was out hiking the mountains and witnessed this.

There is hope at the end of every rainbow; don't give up!

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Will it work while your plants are in flower. Will it burn my pistols?

Those bugs will adapt to anything you try.
They will drive you nuts trying to do this and that.
In the end they win.

Best thing is to start fresh and clean all rooms and equipment with bleach and let the room sit for at least 2 weeks empty. If can wait for a month its better.

Me I tried everything with those bugs...even lady bugs and predator mites but in the end I lost.

I know its a big drag to lose everything...

I tried this chilli method. It works and it's better than mighty wash. I made 5 litres which was enough for 2 applications. I did it 3 days apart. Still some might come back but it seems to have done mat of em

oill said:

I tried this chilli method. It works and it's better than mighty wash. I made 5 litres which was enough for 2 applications. I did it 3 days apart. Still some might come back but it seems to have done mat of em

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Update on the above... As with everything else, it only works a couple of times. And the fuckers come back.

One improvement is to add some dish soap to the mix... Just a tiny droplet

Hi all, I have a technique that exterminates 100% of mites, it's not idiot proof because you have to do it on a schedule to break the breeding cycle and you can't miss a treatment but I can assure you it kills 100% of all mites and they don't come back. I've treated two different grow rooms and a mother tent with it and mites were never seen again in any of them. Mites cannot build up a resistance to it.
It's just dry ice and hot water.
one pound of dry ice makes 8.3 cubic feet of 100% co2 gas at sea level, you want to aim for 80% in the general body of air in the grow space so work out how much you need on those numbers. There's a margin for safety in there, I came up with this idea myself based on a research paper I read ages ago where they used 30% co2 and it killed mites and most eggs reliably in 30 mins at 30 degrees c, so 80% is overkill but higher and hotter can't do any harm with this one.
seal the grow space up as best you can. turn off extractor fans and leave the lights on for a while to get the space over temperature (increases insects metabolic rate and makes them uptake more co2 faster) then put a bucket of warm water in the space and dump the dry ice in the bucket. leave the circulation fans going and shut the door. every animal in there will die of co2 poisoning in half an hour or so, including you in a few minutes if you stay in there - so don't.
The reason this is better than spray is it penetrates everywhere, you miss one mite with spray and you're back where you started in a month's time.
Essentially that's the treatment, probably would work on bottled gas or a co2 fire extinguisher.
You MUST repeat the treatment twice per week for two weeks to ensure you've broken the life cycle for spider mites. High co2 may not kill all the eggs, so you need to make sure you treat to kill juveniles and adults then treat again after eggs have hatched but before those juveniles have reached breeding age or you don't break the cycle.
your plants won't mind high co2 for an hour or so, but don't leave it like that all day "just to be sure".
The only thing I've found which this won't kill is the soil larva of fungus gnats. Nothing kills those goddamned things.
For an indoor grow you can seal this is hands down the simplest, most natural, least toxic and most effective method I've ever come across.

You can do clones and small plants in a garbage can, or any container the size you need, with a lid.. I've left plants overnight wit no ill effects..

Guys i need a suggestion from you. In one garder i had spider mites before so i dropped one bomb but aparently i did not do the job. Now after 5th week in flowering i have major spider nets. We try to wash it off as much as we can but its unbearable.
I have a shop near me selling ladybugs, so i was wondering how effective they would be, will they eat the spiders? I plan to buy a lot and release them every day little by little, but not sure if its worth it...
I see that there are different types od ladybugs(different latin names) do anyone knows which one should i get?
Some guys suggest i should spray them with sugar water in order to have their wings sticky and not fly away, i think this is too rigorous, so instead i just plan to buy more quantity. But when i release them will they fly to the target like predators? Haha
Thanks

Daskalot said:

Guys i need a suggestion from you. In one garder i had spider mites before so i dropped one bomb but aparently i did not do the job. Now after 5th week in flowering i have major spider nets. We try to wash it off as much as we can but its unbearable.
I have a shop near me selling ladybugs, so i was wondering how effective they would be, will they eat the spiders? I plan to buy a lot and release them every day little by little, but not sure if its worth it...
I see that there are different types od ladybugs(different latin names) do anyone knows which one should i get?
Some guys suggest i should spray them with sugar water in order to have their wings sticky and not fly away, i think this is too rigorous, so instead i just plan to buy more quantity. But when i release them will they fly to the target like predators? Haha
Thanks

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I tried lady bugs when I had mites years ago.
They just all made their way toward the lights and ended up dieing.
Same with some Praying Mantis

Stomper420 said:

So, does the pepper thing work or not. I'm not gonna read 44 pages of bickering to find out. Geez.

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Yes, the habanero pepper spray works. Very well in veg and in early flower. Can work later in flower, but may leave a peppery taste if very late in flower. Some people are more sensitive to this than others.

Spraying needs to be repeated every 3 days or so if you want to get the emerging young mites.

Use a dust mask or something over your nose and mouth when spraying.
Turn any fans off while spraying and for a bit of time after spraying.
I don't recommend saturating a plant right before lights out, since you might create a friendly mold environment.

Wash your hands etc when done. Don't touch your eyes, mouth or your penis before washing up.

Spray UNDER the leaves, won't hurt if you spray the tops of leaves, stems, etc. but mites mostly hang under the leaves. Tip the plant upside down or sideways and spray away.

Whew I am glad people are no longer drinking pyrethrins

made my own version of CaliCleaner. I went to the grocery store and bought some habaneros, cilantro, dill, lime,lemon, and fresh rosemary sprigs. Chopped up the habaneros(and i wore gloves and glasses during this) heated everything in 32oz of water for about 20 min. I added a drop of dawn dishsoap and a few drops of lemon extract and a few of lime extract. and put the mix in a spray bottle to cool. My gf came home and instantly started coughing and said "what the hell is that smell, and why are my eyes burning?" lol so im assuming if its that strong then the spidermites dont have a chance i sprayed all my plants with the lights off and fans off. coughing the whole time because i didnt wear a mask. It left a decent piney citrusy smell in the tents compared to the neem oil which smells like straight ass! Haha. Im at 3 weeks into flower in the one tent so im getting ready to stop spraying anything on the buds if i can. Ill spray maybe once or twice more in the next few days and hopefully that puts me in the clear for my buds to mature unadulterated and spidermite free. Ive been battling these bugs for the past month or so and they are still just hanging on by a thread. If this works it should knock em over the edge and ill win this battle. Ill post results