I have a question about Bio Bizz (actually a few questions) [pics included]

Mr. Anomaly

Active Member
I am growing in a light mix(sunshine mix #4) in 15 gallon smart pots with plants almost 6 feet tall and i started feeding at 2ml-1L bio grow and 1ml-1L alg-a-mic during veg and when i switched to flower i started giving 1-2ml-1L bloom and the grow after a couple weeks i checked the ppm of the runoff and it was out of control 900+ so now i am giving them pure RO water every other feeding but now my plants are showing these large burn like spots on all of the fan leaves and my other plants are turning all the way yellow (my plants look like s@$t) the picture below shows my main problem and others on this site led me to believe it might be cal mag problems so the other day i gave them 3ml-1L of Gen Organics Ca-Mg+ and today they seem to look even worse... so i guess my main question other than WTF am i doing wrong is am i feeding with Bio Bizz correctly and is PPM/EC even something i should be checking? What do you give in the way of bio bizz? any help would be awesome!
2013-02-12 19.53.23.jpg
 
you dont need to check ppm, ec or ph with biobizz its organic its pointless wont make a difference (as long as everything is organic)...

and biobizz are shit, thats why i switched to cannas organic line 'biocanna' its much better!
 

Gaia's.Grower

Well-Known Member
Biobizz is an awesome product. I have used It for the past 5 years. The biggest thing I've noticed that causes problems is if your soil drys too much. I always have really high run out EC also. Im sure this is because the microbes are raging. I feed almost every time except towards the end. I tried using other products with the line and usually had undesirable results also (especially with GO ca mg+).
I know it might seem pricey (not as pricey as all of cannas additives - canna is a phenomenal company) but the Bio heaven is the only additive you need to make the line run flawless. You don't need to use as much as they recommend either. 1ml/liter usually has incredible results. Going into week 4 i usually double it and have seen an increase in yield. But if u use it too close to finish it will affect the taste (i am sure its because of the additional N and increased availability of all the nutes.)
 

B4THC4T

Member
Why are you checking your PPM? I use 3ml/L of Bio-Bizz products starting at week 5 of veg, before that I feed @ 1.5ml/L. PH, PPM, EC don't matter if you're in soil. I feed every other watering, except with plants your size, then I go every watering.

Your burn spots look like the result of PH fluctuation. Did you amend your medium with dolomite lime? I add dolomite lime at a rate of 1 TBs per gallon of medium for plants that will be in the mix for 4-10 weeks, 1.5TBS/gallon of medium for plants that will be in the mix more than 10 weeks.

Also, another VERY valuable tip with bio-bizz . . . BUBBLE THAT SHIT! lol. Seriously though, I have an aerator and an air stone, not the cheap POS you get @ WalMart in the pet department, but a really good airstone that never clogs, got it from a grow shop for about $25, would never go back. So, I add my nutrients to the water and bubble the whole mix for about 2-8 hours, then water. As long as you've amended your mix with lime, you should be good.

I'm not a fan of sunshine mix #4, though I know many who use it. I prefer Fox Farm mixes, but any mix I buy I add worm castings, which along with lime help buffer the PH. But in organics, PH is completely irrelevant. I haven't checked runoff PH in over 3 years on 100's of plants and have never once had a problem.

In soil, and organics, stuff like that doesn't matter. I could elaborate on the whole soil-food-web, and such, but I think you get the idea.

And my results using my technique? Here's a few shots from more recent runs:

Skunkberry:


SB.jpgSB2.jpg

Northern Skunk:

NS.jpg


AK47:
AK47.jpg

Blueberry:

BB.jpg

Chemdog D IBL:

chemD.jpg

Sour Diesel IBL:

user96192_pic516461_1287640253.jpg


Skunk #1:

Skunk1.jpg
 

Gaia's.Grower

Well-Known Member
aerating your nutes can help, but Biobizz will tell you not to aerate or not to do it for too long because it oxidizes the nutrients (it makes sense that bubbling would help. I always did it until I asked the company directly). Great post b4thc4t. excellent info and excellent pics
 

Gaia's.Grower

Well-Known Member
The main reason I've found that PH doesn't matter is if you have a healthy rhizosphere the fungal cultures will buffer the PH for the root zone. I've read that the bulk media can have a PH of 8+ and a healthy rhizosphere can buffer to 6.0-6.5 with no problem. Conversely, if your rhizosphere isn't functioning correctly your bulk media can be at 6.0 and the rhizosphere can be way off from that. A major thing I've seen to make a difference in organics is making sure you are removing chlorine/chloramine so that you are killing your microbes (as these are the PH regulators).
 

Mr. Anomaly

Active Member
Why are you checking your PPM? I use 3ml/L of Bio-Bizz products starting at week 5 of veg, before that I feed @ 1.5ml/L. PH, PPM, EC don't matter if you're in soil. I feed every other watering, except with plants your size, then I go every watering.

Your burn spots look like the result of PH fluctuation. Did you amend your medium with dolomite lime? I add dolomite lime at a rate of 1 TBs per gallon of medium for plants that will be in the mix for 4-10 weeks, 1.5TBS/gallon of medium for plants that will be in the mix more than 10 weeks.

Also, another VERY valuable tip with bio-bizz . . . BUBBLE THAT SHIT! lol. Seriously though, I have an aerator and an air stone, not the cheap POS you get @ WalMart in the pet department, but a really good airstone that never clogs, got it from a grow shop for about $25, would never go back. So, I add my nutrients to the water and bubble the whole mix for about 2-8 hours, then water. As long as you've amended your mix with lime, you should be good.

I'm not a fan of sunshine mix #4, though I know many who use it. I prefer Fox Farm mixes, but any mix I buy I add worm castings, which along with lime help buffer the PH. But in organics, PH is completely irrelevant. I haven't checked runoff PH in over 3 years on 100's of plants and have never once had a problem.

In soil, and organics, stuff like that doesn't matter. I could elaborate on the whole soil-food-web, and such, but I think you get the idea.

And my results using my technique? Here's a few shots from more recent runs:

Skunkberry:


View attachment 2537697View attachment 2537698

Northern Skunk:

View attachment 2537699


AK47:
View attachment 2537700

Blueberry:

View attachment 2537701

Chemdog D IBL:

View attachment 2537702

Sour Diesel IBL:

View attachment 2537703


Skunk #1:

View attachment 2537704
Ok that is what i needed. lol it's hard to get detailed info like that but another question i have pondered is if say i were to give 2ml-1L grow and 3ml-1L bloom and i wanted to add alg a mic or bio heaven should i bring down the amount of the grow and bloom to account for the added ph drop of the additives? What would you say about ppm of the runoff being over 900?
 

Mr. Anomaly

Active Member
Biobizz is an awesome product. I have used It for the past 5 years. The biggest thing I've noticed that causes problems is if your soil drys too much. I always have really high run out EC also. Im sure this is because the microbes are raging. I feed almost every time except towards the end. I tried using other products with the line and usually had undesirable results also (especially with GO ca mg+).
I know it might seem pricey (not as pricey as all of cannas additives - canna is a phenomenal company) but the Bio heaven is the only additive you need to make the line run flawless. You don't need to use as much as they recommend either. 1ml/liter usually has incredible results. Going into week 4 i usually double it and have seen an increase in yield. But if u use it too close to finish it will affect the taste (i am sure its because of the additional N and increased availability of all the nutes.)
The spotting turns out to be from a cal mag def and it seems that the cal mag supplement i fed fixed the problem so if i don't use cal mag how will i get the needed dose of calcium and magnesium being i use a RO filtration setup. I have read that Alg-A-Mic has a some trace cal mag but maybe not enough.
 

Gaia's.Grower

Well-Known Member
The bioheaven contains organic chelators so it will make the minerals in the grow and bloom more available. When i didn't use the bioheaven it seemed like i had a calmg def, which is why i had tried the GO camg. The heaven also has minerals in it. It has ca and mg and most internally immobile nutrients. The alg-a-mic has a significant amount of calcium but no listed mg. and i am almost certain the topmax has some ca mg to assist in the accelerated growth that comes with its use.
 

Gaia's.Grower

Well-Known Member
I have seen many people say RO causes problems in organic. I use a tall boy with the replacement kdf85 cause we have chloramines. But you could try adding a small amount of dolomite to remineralise the water. Or maybe that general organics might compliment the use of RO water perfectly.
 

MikeyP4-20

Active Member
Why are you checking your PPM? I use 3ml/L of Bio-Bizz products starting at week 5 of veg, before that I feed @ 1.5ml/L. PH, PPM, EC don't matter if you're in soil. I feed every other watering, except with plants your size, then I go every watering.

Your burn spots look like the result of PH fluctuation. Did you amend your medium with dolomite lime? I add dolomite lime at a rate of 1 TBs per gallon of medium for plants that will be in the mix for 4-10 weeks, 1.5TBS/gallon of medium for plants that will be in the mix more than 10 weeks.

Also, another VERY valuable tip with bio-bizz . . . BUBBLE THAT SHIT! lol. Seriously though, I have an aerator and an air stone, not the cheap POS you get @ WalMart in the pet department, but a really good airstone that never clogs, got it from a grow shop for about $25, would never go back. So, I add my nutrients to the water and bubble the whole mix for about 2-8 hours, then water. As long as you've amended your mix with lime, you should be good.

I'm not a fan of sunshine mix #4, though I know many who use it. I prefer Fox Farm mixes, but any mix I buy I add worm castings, which along with lime help buffer the PH. But in organics, PH is completely irrelevant. I haven't checked runoff PH in over 3 years on 100's of plants and have never once had a problem.

In soil, and organics, stuff like that doesn't matter. I could elaborate on the whole soil-food-web, and such, but I think you get the idea.

And my results using my technique? Here's a few shots from more recent runs:

Skunkberry:

View attachment 2537697View attachment 2537698

Northern Skunk:

View attachment 2537699


AK47:
View attachment 2537700

Blueberry:

View attachment 2537701

Chemdog D IBL:

View attachment 2537702

Sour Diesel IBL:

View attachment 2537703


Skunk #1:

View attachment 2537704
Hi Buddie,

sorry to pop in on this convo but,

Hey Man, you don't happen to have a schedule that you follow with BioBizz do you? Your plants looks absolutely stunning man!
I have got all of their products and i am about to use them along with their light mix soil on autoflowers ,my waters PPM is at 200 also.
Any advice would be really appreciated . :) :)
 
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